Ross & Cromarty > Stac Pollaidh >
 
Jack the Ripper*** E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< November Groove
 
Jack the Ripper (Fred West Finish) >>
[Topping out on a hazy day in Coigach, 2 kb]80m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Topping out on a hazy day in Coigach © Andy Moles
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 79 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Top pitch is superb but nails. Might just be the style of climbing!
cuthill76 - Lead - 25/Aug/13

Enjoyable climbing. Take lots of cams.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/13 with Roger Webb

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/13

Led first pitch. Went off route on second pitch following Gary Latter guide. Top pitch was stupendous.
Steve Waters, Mynydd - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Mike Tempest

cat22 - 2nd - 25/May/13 with Mike

Chossy lower pitches leads to a great top pitch.
samwillo - AltLd - 20/Feb/13 with Peter Herd

Pitch two needs a better description.. Stunning top pitch!
peter.herd - AltLd - 20/Feb/13 with Sam Williams

ollie1 - AltLd - 17/Feb/13

andy33 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - 2013

Fantastic, pitch 2 perfect not dirty as some say below. Jack be nimble, Jack be quick for the last pitch:)
sebrider - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/12 with Gregor

GregC - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/12 with S Rider

Sustained and very thought provoking. Great gear always.
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/12 with Colin Angus

Led P2 (which was very pleasant and not in the least bit dirty). P3 is brilliant. We had the crag to ourselves on the clearest day I've ever had in Scotland in the summer. Awesome.
victim of mathematics - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/12 with James Oswald

Only led pitch 1 so can't really count as alt leads. Fantastic route. Good little layback crack on pitch one. Pitch 2 airy and delicate (don't believe comment below about it being dirty). Pitch 3 sustained and strenuous. Route finding not difficult. Don't abseil in do the whole route.
DavPk - 2nd - 14/Jul/12 with Simon Hayes

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/12 with Tony Stone, James Dunn

2nd and 3rd pitches are awesome
Dave Douglas - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with Pete Clarkson

quality route. Did the direct start on pitch 1 as a party already on November groove - this pitch was awful!
peter.clarkson1 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12 with dave douglas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/12

MDowson - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12 with sam webb

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/12

Led pitch 1 which was straight forward with lovely layback crack for interest. Remaining pitches very fine, particularly the last pitch which had improbably but do-able moves.
Carol Goodall - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with Libby Southgate, Jonnie Williams

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 31/May/12 with Libby, Carol

Carol did pitch 1, I did pitch 2, Jonnie did pitch 3; lovely.
LibS - AltLd - 31/May/12 with Carol Goodall, Jonnie Williams

Straightforward easy entry pitch, dirty, loose and scary second pitch which actually felt like the hardest technical climbing too (maybe I was too far right, but on reflection I doubt it), then a lovely technical finger crack corner pitch to finish on perfect rough rock. Not worth 3 stars, would recommend abbing in from the top to the 2nd belay ledge to just do the top pitch.
freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Luke Ellis

Don't follow the description in Gary Latter's giant book of disinformation. If you belay on the detached pinnacle, go LEFT further up the groove. Really nice rock when on route...
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Neil Adams

Really good route, despite a Fulton off-piste variation on the middle pitch
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Ally F

Patzl - 2012

Still classic, went the right way this time, and ran the first two pitches together which makes a nice, long pitch!
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 06/Nov/11 with Emily

newtonmore - AltLd - 05/Sep/11

With a (new?) variant finish. Step, airily around the arete when halfway up the final pitch to the base of a crack just right of the arete. Climb the crack to the top. Gets a bit close to Felo de Se but is a sustained and well positioned way to finish the route. A bit dirty but not bad. E25b
gforce - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/11 with Adrian

ali_robb - AltLd O/S - May/11

pete87abs - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/11 with marcel, rob

tallthinmonkey - 2nd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Ben Wallace

Hidden - AltLd - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Lead pitch three. Excellent and sustained.
bnewman - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with danimal88, Amelia

Hard top pitch. perfect rock. Fred west finish looks spicy
danimal88 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Amilia Hunt, Brad Newman

cam1401 - Lead O/S - Sep/10 with Andy O

quality
dave o - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Julia H

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Jun/10

Great route in a fantastic setting
IceBun - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Sandy Simpson

Fergus Cuthill - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Rozzy

Steve 1st pitch, me 2nd pitch, Ruben 3rd pitch. Quality climbing all the way up. Started the 2nd pitch in the wrong place which led to a hairy moment..
bigdrew - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Steve E, Reuben

Lead P1, awesome route, a great line
Sankey - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Andy J, Reuben

Andy Moles - AltLd rpt - 31/May/10 with Ferdia

ferdia - AltLd O/S - 31/May/10 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/May/10

A fall and a rest. Amazingly good route, shocking wind and exposure on second pitch, third pitch magnificent and hideously sustained - wouldn't feel like a pushover at E2.
Tom Last - AltLd - 28/Apr/10 with Chester

Won't forget this route in a hurry. Led second pitch and nearly got blown off by the gusts of wind, chin came in handy as an extra grip.
crobinson - AltLd - 28/Apr/10 with Southern Man

Think I found a harder (off)route on the 2nd pitch, passing by some bail gear left by some others that made the same mistake :P , top pitch is a cracker!
Dr Toph - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Ed

A red letter day!
Smelly Fox - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/09 with Heather Thikey

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Carlos

decs - AltLd - 30/May/09 with Dan

Led first and third pitches. Stunning.
Andy Moles - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Andy Latham

nice
AndyL - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with moleo

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/09

Brian McC - AltLd - 05/Jul/08 with Ged Reilly/ Walter taylor

One of the best routes I've ever done!
Steve Perry - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Barry Middleton

A wonderful route. Well protected. Found myself giggling with delight in positions that would normally have me quivering. E1 5b is a reasonable grade for it. Definately not VS 5a!
willboydwallis - 07/Jun/08 with John

westaway - AltLd O/S - Sep/07 with Imelda Neale

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/07

First mountain E1, a brilliant day.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 16/Sep/06 with Mark

Quite tough for E1 but an excellent varied route up to a true summit experience and stunning views.
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Huw

ellis - AltLd O/S - May/06 with Alice Brockington

Hidden - Lead - 2006

Hidden - Lead - 11/Aug/03

Dave Kerr - AltLd - 16/Aug/02 with John Watson, Chris Boutell

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Jul/02

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 16/Jul/01 with Roger Benton

tough last pitch
brianrunner - AltLd - 2001 with gordon innes

Tarquin - 1999

AC1 - 1996

Hidden - AltLd - May/94

My second "Scottish" VS!!
GordyB - 2nd - 1989

rogerskews - AltLd O/S - Jun/88 with Bryn Roberts

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Alex the Alex, CM1992, Hidden, Callum_Johnson, mike_tamanawis, Hidden, JonmapDL, Hidden, oliverk, Hidden, peter.herd, Hidden, Hidden, Neil Mackenzie, Hidden, Hidden, squicky, Hidden, Ian Jones, franksnb, BWoodward, Lawrie Brand, andymoin, Ropeboy, mauchie, schultz, French Erick, samwelli

Voting
Total votes cast 78
hard E20 of 25
E20 of 25
easy E22 of 25
hard E15 of 25
E118 of 25
easy E10 of 25
hard HVS0 of 25
HVS0 of 25
easy HVS0 of 25
hard 5c0 of 25
5c0 of 25
easy 5c0 of 25
hard 5b5 of 25
5b20 of 25
easy 5b0 of 25
hard 5a0 of 25
5a0 of 25
easy 5a0 of 25
3 Stars26 of 28
2 Stars2 of 28
1 Star0 of 28
0 Stars0 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Lead11 of 79 (13.9%)
Followed6 of 79 (7.6%)
Alt Leads55 of 79 (69.6%)
Unknown7 of 79 (8.9%)

'Climbed'37 of 79 (46.8%)
clean O/S39 of 79 (49.4%)
clean rpt2 of 79 (2.5%)
dogged1 of 79 (1.3%)