East Ridge Variations HS 4b
[Dog leading the first pitch of East Ridge Variation, 2 kb]73m, 4 pitches. The variations on pitch 1 and 2, 17m and 17m, pitch 1 following twin cracks to more positive holds to the ledge and belay and pitch 2 following the single crack in the centre of the back wall on some polished holds to easier ground to reach the ridge and the traditional final 2 pitches, which can be run together.

** Peregrine nesting April 2015 **

Ticklists: Orange Spot Gower.

Photo: Dog leading the first pitch of East Ridge Variation © Daymo
View all 4 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 152 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

I led P1, and then Barry had a shot at P2 but didn't crack it after a few attempts. I then tried P2 and managed it after a rest on the gear. It is just a hard route to onsight - without an easy way to figure out the crux, and I wasn't prepared for such a battle given the more amenable HS routes we did earlier in the day. The tech grade should definitely be bumped up due to polish. Barry then led P3, and I P4. Great views :)
SenzuBean - AltLd dog - 27/Sep/15 with Barry

Got spanked by the HS pitches after cruising VSs all weekend. The 2nd pitch in particular is definitely harder than the grade. Even the first is very committing for an HS. Plenty of bomber gear though.
BarrySW19 - AltLd RP - 27/Sep/15 with Jon

2 seconds Paul and Rocio
martin c - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/15 with Paul G

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/15

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/15 with Pilar

Hidden - Lead dnf - 26/May/15

Radical-G - Lead O/S - 26/May/15

Alternating leads with Parisa and she also had a very plucky go at leading the plished HS 4b variation..think she'll do it not problem nxt visit. (also spotted an interesting option for nxt visit....
joe gallacher - AltLd - 10/May/15 with Parisa

Currently a pair of peregrines nesting near to the second belay. They were at all happy about us just being at the base of the route so we decided to leave it (26/04/15).
Robin Woodward - 26/Apr/15

led p1 &2
BarnDawg - Lead - 05/Apr/15 with Dave Tulloch

Jayyaj (Jason) lead pitch 2 (4b variant)
AndrewCollins - AltLd - 04/Apr/15 with Andy Dorset, Jason

Did the normal route which Andrew led and I led the 2nd pitch doing the 4b variant but ended up resting on it.
jayyaj - AltLd dog - 04/Apr/15

jamesb101 - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/14 with Chris Cockbain

chris cockbain - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/14

Hidden - 02/Oct/14

tom jefferies - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Richard Oneil

weather was sunny but a bit wet, surface was highly polished.
stevo5171 - 2nd O/S - 13/Aug/14

jamie d - TR O/S - Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/14

Helen.Burgess - AltLd - 16/Jul/14 with Hal Roberts

carievans67 - 2nd - 02/Jul/14 with Gary Burkhardt

Hidden - AltLd - 30/May/14

MikeSP - Lead - 17/May/14

Nice, Led 1&2
Jamiet297 - AltLd O/S - 17/May/14 with Silvia Candia

silviac - AltLd - 17/May/14 with Jamie Trump

Sarah Welsh - AltLd - 17/May/14 with Andy Foers

dkilner - Lead O/S - 17/May/14 with joe newham

Legs - Lead O/S - 03/May/14 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 03/May/14

joe gallacher - Lead - 20/Apr/14 with Allan Green

Top rope solo. Out of shape: found both HS variations desperate. Dynamic uncontrolled moves got me up both...just.
JamesColeman - TR O/S - 29/Mar/14

Had fun on the start and first few moves of pitch 1 to reach the easing, great route, enjoyed the traditionl route 2nd from last pitch round the arete and some reasonable exposure
ianbowles - AltLd O/S - 17/Nov/13 with Max Bardwell

jcooper8 - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13

andrew549 - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/13

Spillers - AltLd - 14/Oct/13 with Leo

Nice summit view to end the day :)
Dr Toph - Solo O/S - 10/Sep/13

CC p1,3 TB p2,4. The polish made things spicy at times.
birthers - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Caroline C

caroline256 - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Tom B

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/13

P1 me, P2-3 Stu, P4 me.
stonemikey - AltLd - 31/Aug/13

Pitches 1, 3 & 4 of the original route, Pitch 2 by HS variation.
Jen Mason - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Richard

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Aug/13

birge55 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/13

P1 felt hard, steep and bouldery (4c??), P2 felt like trying to climb on glass. P3 and 4 were pleasant. Enjoyable route, but stiff for the grade.
kyaizawa - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13 with Jun Aizawa

CLyus - Lead - 19/Jun/13 with Meinertzhagen

Did the 2nd pitch of the HS variation
jonnyblindsign - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with oldbastard

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13

Done in three pitches, I took the first two and Chris the final one.
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Chris Mullaney

ben.phillips - AltLd O/S - 06/May/13 with Mike Rigby

fathobbit - AltLd - 06/May/13 with Mr. K

Lead P1 and P4. Ben did P2 & P3 together.
mike.rigby - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Ben Phillips

ben.phillips - AltLd O/S - 04/May/13 with Mike Rigby

maddy92 - Lead - 16/Feb/13

Alex Cole - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with David Maddison

mauricechetwyndwoods1 - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/13 with Leo Grabowski

quite necky and holds are polished, makes for strenuous climbing, climbed easier vs routes!!!
Andrew will wilson - 2013

BicycleBradley - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Chris Phelps

A Jackson - Lead O/S - 2013

RKirke - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/12

Climbed in dark with head torches, stormy weather, showers, waves crashing over the 2nd belay!! Great fun! The pint afterwards felt well earned.
TimBoothby - Lead dog - 17/Oct/12 with Stephen

Daymo - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Rob, Len Oakes, Andy

Andy Merrick - 2nd - 29/Sep/12

deejmonkey - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Tom, matt

tomparrott - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with DJ

terragait - AltLd - 29/Sep/12 with Len, Andy M, Erb

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Sep/12

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12

Was aiming to do the easier variation but followed the polish and am pretty sure we did this. The grade seems more accurate too although the difficulties were brief and escapable.
gethin_allen - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12

2nd pitch variation very polished at crucial foot placements , felt more like VS 4c BUT the more exposed easier arete is where the 3 stars are.
joe gallacher - Lead - 04/Jun/12 with Mary Eggins

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/12

Huw lead P1 & P2 after I tried leading P2 and lowered off the crux. I led P3+4 as one.
timstyles - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Huw Howells

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12

Pete Randall - AltLd - 19/May/12 with John H

First and third pitches were enoyable (clean OS), but the second pitch is like climbing glass (thus the dogged). Would recommend switching to the more exposed arÍte route for the second pitch. Not worth the stars due to polish.
andyevans - 2nd dog - 19/May/12

Led P1, P3. Fun bouldery start. Rob D slipped off on P2, I caught him a couple feet short of the ground - slippery for feet. Got hailstones on P3! Looks like a better route than the vdiff variation, so should get a couple of stars.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/12 with Robert, R. Horler

Unpleasantly suprised by polish on P2, took a fall after reading the route wrong and muffing the crux up. Nice to have a sharp belayer!
Bobling - AltLd - 21/Apr/12 with Rob H, James P

Slick - AltLd - 21/Apr/12 with Isabel Evans

Egons Issy - AltLd - 21/Apr/12 with Richard Nicholson

nath_casper - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12 with Adam A Wheeler, Montse Shelb

jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Emily Cropton

Emily Cropton - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with Jon Ridley

Pitches 3 and 4.
Voltemands - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Carlene HIll

MD - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Donna, Su

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/11

climbingxcat - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Brian

btc - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Bob Workman

M.P L.P Trad HS,4b Did it in three pitches - running the last two together
OERees - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/11

Danny Crump - Lead - 13/Aug/11 with Sarah Pentelow

Convinced mass GMC party to do Ridge after day climbing at 3 cliffs. Ropes and people all over it. We had well earned beer and food at Oxwich Hotel after. Ran 1st 2 pitches together. Mark did rest to top.
freemanTom - AltLd - 16/Jul/11 with Richard Whitaker, Mark Diplock

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/11

JCookie - 2nd - 19/Jun/11 with Richard Plater

ThinkI did some of the variations.
chris wyatt - Solo - 30/Apr/11

led p1, 2 & 4
Matthew Edwards - AltLd rpt - 19/Apr/11 with Jamie Short

J.Short - AltLd - 19/Apr/11 with Ed

joem - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/11

Jono Graham - 2011

beakerburgess - AltLd O/S - 2011 with Joe Mccarty

East Ridge Variations first pitch, original East Ridge second pitch.
Steve Hill - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/10 with Melinda Hill

minda_kat - AltLd - 31/Aug/10 with Steve Hill

Ram MkiV - Solo O/S - 18/Aug/10 with dan stead

Col Kingshott - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/10

1st pitch quite a warm up early in the morning. Only just seconded without falling off. Had to downclimb some of the 2nd pitch and rest as was still pumped from the 1st pitch. Pleasant finish.
freemanTom - AltLd - 15/Aug/10 with Genna Morrow

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd dog - 17/Jul/10

followed the polish all the way
tdudley - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Ed Edwards, Tom Webber

wasn't told it was HS! tho didn't really feel like one, more VD or S apart from the 2nd pitch move... we started after the sun went down. good fun turns out only done pitch 2 of the HS variation.
Matthew Edwards - Solo O/S - 24/Jun/10 with Tom Webber, Tom Dudley

TomWebber - Solo - 24/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jun/10

Led pitches 1 and 3. Great position at the top belay.
DKaye - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10 with dunnyg

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/May/10

Hidden - AltLd - May/10

staying right for the bottom two pitches, second pitch had 1 hard move. otherwise v easy too many short pitches, good intro to multi pitch climbing.
dunky - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/10

jon clayton - Lead - 10/Apr/10 with Hannah Sinnott

Jules led the first pitch, I led the second, third and fourth, we ran the second and third into one pitch. I did the HS bits, didn't find them that HS apart from the start of the fourth pitch. There are a couple of other hardish looking bits that I'll have to come back another time and do.
mattrm - AltLd - 13/Feb/10 with Jules Vine

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/09

i had 1st go at pitch one got some gear in, ro went up a bit further and got some higher gear in, i then led through and finished the pitch. ro fell on pitch 2 and hurt ankle
ross duffield - AltLd dnf - 29/Aug/09 with row

led 1st pitch and 3rd+4th together. Great fun climbing. 4th pitch is only a scramble though.
joeurwin - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with alex

AlexD - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/09 with joeurwin

fchris - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/09 with Barbara E

Gareth T - 2nd - 31/May/09 with Tom Webber

There are all sorts of options on this climb, some considerably harder than 4b if you seek them out, we had fun with a committing move that involved pulling up on a 2 finger pocket at the back of a little shelf.
The Ivanator - AltLd - 25/May/09 with Rob

Lead pitched 3 and 4, tries pitch 2 it was too polished
eclipse - AltLd O/S - 23/May/09 with Greg Jones

Climbed the first two pitches polished to high heaven.
Greg Jones - AltLd - 23/May/09 with eclipse

bridget143 - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with SUSS

Hannah Moulton - Lead - 03/May/09 with suss

tweedcore - Lead O/S - 18/Jan/09

Kenemo - 2009

summo - 2009

sebrider - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/08 with Guy robertson

Top pitch climbed in the dark by head-torch.
Steve Hill - Lead β - 15/Oct/08 with Mark Winder

TomWebber - AltLd - 08/Oct/08 with Sam Watkins

Samo - AltLd - 08/Oct/08 with Tom Webber

tdudley - 2nd dog - Aug/08 with Simon Robinson

simonr - Lead O/S - Aug/08 with Tom Dudley

Chris 1st, 2nd & 3rd pitches, Alys 4th. 2nd pitch was very, very polished and slippery - slipped onto gear at crux...
chrisjones199 - AltLd dog - 26/Jul/08 with Alys Rook

davidgc1 - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Emily

andy jennings - Lead O/S - Jun/08 with Momber

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/07

matt.woodfield - Lead - 11/Mar/07

steve.warrington - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/07 with Matt Woodfiled

Stone Muppet - 2007 with mw

AlexRenshaw - 24/Aug/06 with Thomas Renshaw

John Brayshaw - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/05 with Shirley

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Aug/05

crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/05 with gwilym

goi.ashmore - Solo O/S - 10/May/98

mikej - Lead - 22/Aug/71 with E

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RamblingRyan, TCarrick, dansmonkeytroubles, tobydunford

Total votes cast 79
hard VS1 of 28
VS0 of 28
easy VS7 of 28
hard HS4 of 28
HS14 of 28
easy HS2 of 28
hard S0 of 28
S0 of 28
easy S0 of 28
hard 4c2 of 26
4c0 of 26
easy 4c18 of 26
hard 4b1 of 26
4b4 of 26
easy 4b1 of 26
hard 4a0 of 26
4a0 of 26
easy 4a0 of 26
3 Stars2 of 25
2 Stars18 of 25
1 Star4 of 25
0 Stars1 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP