73m, 4 pitches. The variations on pitch 1 and 2, 17m and 17m, pitch 1 following twin cracks to more positive holds to the ledge and belay and pitch 2 following the single crack in the centre of the back wall on some polished holds to easier ground to reach the ridge and the traditional final 2 pitches, which can be run together.

** Peregrine nesting April 2015 **

Ticklists: Orange Spot Gower.

Hidden 03/Oct Lead O/S
SenzuBean 27/Sep AltLd dog

I led P1, and then Barry had a shot at P2 but didn't crack it after a few attempts. I then tried P2 and managed it after a rest on the gear. It is just a hard route to onsight - without an easy way to figure out the crux, and I wasn't prepared for such a battle given the more amenable HS routes we did earlier in the day. The tech grade should definitely be bumped up due to polish. Barry then led P3, and I P4. Great views :)

with Barry
BarrySW19 27/Sep AltLd RP

Got spanked by the HS pitches after cruising VSs all weekend. The 2nd pitch in particular is definitely harder than the grade. Even the first is very committing for an HS. Plenty of bomber gear though.

with Jon
martin c 15/Aug Lead O/S

2 seconds Paul and Rocio

with Paul G
Hidden 18/Jul AltLd O/S
Julesthe1st 20/Jun AltLd O/S
with Pilar
Hidden 26/May Lead dnf
Radical-G 26/May Lead O/S
joe gallacher 10/May AltLd

Alternating leads with Parisa and she also had a very plucky go at leading the plished HS 4b variation..think she'll do it not problem nxt visit. (also spotted an interesting option for nxt visit....

with Parisa
Robin Woodward 26/Apr -

Currently a pair of peregrines nesting near to the second belay. They were at all happy about us just being at the base of the route so we decided to leave it (26/04/15).

BarnDawg 05/Apr Lead

led p1 &2

with Dave Tulloch
AndrewCollins 04/Apr AltLd

Jayyaj (Jason) lead pitch 2 (4b variant)

with Andy Dorset, Jason
jayyaj 04/Apr AltLd dog

Did the normal route which Andrew led and I led the 2nd pitch doing the 4b variant but ended up resting on it.

jamesb101 25/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Chris Cockbain
chris cockbain 25/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/14 -
tom jefferies 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Richard Oneil
stevo5171 13/Aug/14 2nd O/S

weather was sunny but a bit wet, surface was highly polished.

jamie d ?/Aug/14 TR O/S


Hidden 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Helen.Burgess 16/Jul/14 AltLd
carievans67 02/Jul/14 2nd
with Gary Burkhardt
Hidden 30/May/14 AltLd
MikeSP 17/May/14 Lead
Jamiet297 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Nice, Led 1&2

with Silvia Candia
silviac 17/May/14 AltLd
Sarah Welsh 17/May/14 AltLd
dkilner 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with joe newham
Legs 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
joe gallacher 20/Apr/14 Lead
with Allan Green
JamesColeman 29/Mar/14 TR O/S

Top rope solo. Out of shape: found both HS variations desperate. Dynamic uncontrolled moves got me up both...just.

ianbowles 17/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Had fun on the start and first few moves of pitch 1 to reach the easing, great route, enjoyed the traditionl route 2nd from last pitch round the arete and some reasonable exposure

with Max Bardwell
jcooper8 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
andrew549 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Spillers 14/Oct/13 AltLd
with Leo
Dr Toph 10/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Nice summit view to end the day :)

birthers 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

CC p1,3 TB p2,4. The polish made things spicy at times.

caroline256 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom B
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd
stonemikey 31/Aug/13 AltLd

P1 me, P2-3 Stu, P4 me.

Jen Mason 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pitches 1, 3 & 4 of the original route, Pitch 2 by HS variation.

with Richard
Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd
birge55 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
kyaizawa 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

P1 felt hard, steep and bouldery (4c??), P2 felt like trying to climb on glass. P3 and 4 were pleasant. Enjoyable route, but stiff for the grade.

with Jun Aizawa
CLyus 19/Jun/13 Lead
jonnyblindsign 08/Jun/13 AltLd

Did the 2nd pitch of the HS variation

Hidden 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
Mr. K 06/May/13 AltLd O/S

Done in three pitches, I took the first two and Chris the final one.

ben.phillips 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
fathobbit 06/May/13 AltLd
with Mr. K
mike.rigby 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and P4. Ben did P2 & P3 together.

ben.phillips 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
maddy92 16/Feb/13 Lead
Alex Cole 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
mauricechetwyndwoods1 16/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Leo Grabowski
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 -

quite necky and holds are polished, makes for strenuous climbing, climbed easier vs routes!!!

BicycleBradley ??/2013 AltLd O/S
A Jackson ??/2013 Lead O/S
khris ??/2013 AltLd
with Bradley
RKirke 11/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
TimBoothby 17/Oct/12 Lead dog

Climbed in dark with head torches, stormy weather, showers, waves crashing over the 2nd belay!! Great fun! The pint afterwards felt well earned.

with Stephen
Daymo 29/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Andy Merrick 29/Sep/12 2nd
deejmonkey 29/Sep/12 AltLd
with Tom, matt
tomparrott 29/Sep/12 AltLd
with DJ
terragait 29/Sep/12 AltLd
with Len, Andy M, Erb
Hidden 29/Sep/12 AltLd
steve-grigg 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
gethin_allen 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Was aiming to do the easier variation but followed the polish and am pretty sure we did this. The grade seems more accurate too although the difficulties were brief and escapable.

joe gallacher 04/Jun/12 Lead

2nd pitch variation very polished at crucial foot placements , felt more like VS 4c BUT the more exposed easier arete is where the 3 stars are.

Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd
timstyles 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

Huw lead P1 & P2 after I tried leading P2 and lowered off the crux. I led P3+4 as one.

with Huw Howells
Hidden 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
Pete Randall 19/May/12 AltLd
with John H
andyevans 19/May/12 2nd dog

First and third pitches were enoyable (clean OS), but the second pitch is like climbing glass (thus the dogged). Would recommend switching to the more exposed arÍte route for the second pitch. Not worth the stars due to polish.

Poco Loco 21/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3. Fun bouldery start. Rob D slipped off on P2, I caught him a couple feet short of the ground - slippery for feet. Got hailstones on P3! Looks like a better route than the vdiff variation, so should get a couple of stars.

with Robert, R. Horler
Bobling 21/Apr/12 AltLd

Unpleasantly suprised by polish on P2, took a fall after reading the route wrong and muffing the crux up. Nice to have a sharp belayer!

with Rob H, James P
Slick 21/Apr/12 AltLd
Egons Issy 21/Apr/12 AltLd
nath_casper 05/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
jon_ridley 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Emily Cropton 02/Oct/11 AltLd
Voltemands 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Pitches 3 and 4.

MD 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Donna, Su
Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd
climbingxcat 27/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Brian
btc 21/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Bob Workman
OERees 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

M.P L.P Trad HS,4b Did it in three pitches - running the last two together

Danny Crump 13/Aug/11 Lead
freemanTom 16/Jul/11 AltLd

Convinced mass GMC party to do Ridge after day climbing at 3 cliffs. Ropes and people all over it. We had well earned beer and food at Oxwich Hotel after. Ran 1st 2 pitches together. Mark did rest to top.

with Richard Whitaker, Mark Diplock
Hidden 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
JCookie 19/Jun/11 2nd
with Richard Plater
chris wyatt 30/Apr/11 Solo

ThinkI did some of the variations.

Matthew Edwards 19/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

led p1, 2 & 4

J.Short 19/Apr/11 AltLd
with Ed
joem 23/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Jono Graham ??/2011 -
beakerburgess ??/2011 AltLd O/S
joem ??/2011 AltLd
Steve Hill 31/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

East Ridge Variations first pitch, original East Ridge second pitch.

minda_kat 31/Aug/10 AltLd
Ram MkiV 18/Aug/10 Solo O/S
Col Kingshott 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S
freemanTom 15/Aug/10 AltLd

1st pitch quite a warm up early in the morning. Only just seconded without falling off. Had to downclimb some of the 2nd pitch and rest as was still pumped from the 1st pitch. Pleasant finish.

with Genna Morrow
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd dog
tdudley 24/Jun/10 Solo O/S

followed the polish all the way

with Ed Edwards, Tom Webber
Matthew Edwards 24/Jun/10 Solo O/S

wasn't told it was HS! tho didn't really feel like one, more VD or S apart from the 2nd pitch move... we started after the sun went down. good fun turns out only done pitch 2 of the HS variation.

TomWebber 24/Jun/10 Solo
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd
DKaye 01/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3. Great position at the top belay.

with dunnyg
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/10 AltLd
dunky 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

staying right for the bottom two pitches, second pitch had 1 hard move. otherwise v easy too many short pitches, good intro to multi pitch climbing.

Chris Sansum 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/10 2nd
jon clayton 10/Apr/10 Lead
with Hannah Sinnott
mattrm 13/Feb/10 AltLd

Jules led the first pitch, I led the second, third and fourth, we ran the second and third into one pitch. I did the HS bits, didn't find them that HS apart from the start of the fourth pitch. There are a couple of other hardish looking bits that I'll have to come back another time and do.

with Jules Vine
Chris Hannaby 01/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Nat Elliot-Green
ross duffield 29/Aug/09 AltLd dnf

i had 1st go at pitch one got some gear in, ro went up a bit further and got some higher gear in, i then led through and finished the pitch. ro fell on pitch 2 and hurt ankle

with row
joeurwin 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch and 3rd+4th together. Great fun climbing. 4th pitch is only a scramble though.

with alex
AlexD 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
fchris 17/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Barbara E
Gareth T 31/May/09 2nd
with Tom Webber
The Ivanator 25/May/09 AltLd

There are all sorts of options on this climb, some considerably harder than 4b if you seek them out, we had fun with a committing move that involved pulling up on a 2 finger pocket at the back of a little shelf.

with Rob
eclipse 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitched 3 and 4, tries pitch 2 it was too polished

Greg Jones 23/May/09 AltLd

Climbed the first two pitches polished to high heaven.

with eclipse
bridget143 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with SUSS
Hannah Moulton 03/May/09 Lead
with suss
tweedcore 18/Jan/09 Lead O/S
Kenemo ??/2009 -
summo ??/2009 -
sebrider 26/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Guy robertson
Steve Hill 15/Oct/08 Lead β

Top pitch climbed in the dark by head-torch.

with Mark Winder
TomWebber 08/Oct/08 AltLd
with Sam Watkins
Samo 08/Oct/08 AltLd
tdudley ?/Aug/08 2nd dog
simonr ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
chrisjones199 26/Jul/08 AltLd dog

Chris 1st, 2nd & 3rd pitches, Alys 4th. 2nd pitch was very, very polished and slippery - slipped onto gear at crux...

with Alys Rook
davidgc1 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Emily
andy jennings ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Momber
Hidden 03/Jul/07 Lead O/S
matt.woodfield 11/Mar/07 Lead
steve.warrington 11/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
with mw
AlexRenshaw 24/Aug/06 -
John Brayshaw 29/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Shirley
Hidden 29/Aug/05 2nd
crossdressingrodney 10/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with gwilym
goi.ashmore 10/May/98 Solo O/S
mikej 22/Aug/71 Lead
with E
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RamblingRyan, TCarrick, dansmonkeytroubles, tobydunford, Hidden
High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
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High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
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High 4a
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