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Torpantau Waterfall** III

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Right hand finish >>
[Matt Smith on Torpantau Waterfall , 2 kb]The main icefall may be taken at around grade III. There are also some short steps above and below the main pitch. Rock protection is poor and the rock is friable so be prepared to belay from the ice or frozen turf.

Photo: Matt Smith on Torpantau Waterfall © Dave Rumney
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 118 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Climbed it late last night and bagged first night climb. The climbs still in good form and a lot of fun. Would like to go back for a play around there in the day next time.
ADuck - 03/Apr/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 01/Apr/13

Had it to ourselves. Back at van for coffee and croissants by 9am.
Rich God 3 - Solo - 01/Apr/13 with Gwilym

chadrads - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/13 with Iwan jones-roberts

Hidden - 01/Apr/13

3kidsandanorton - Lead - 31/Mar/13 with Steve Newman

Nigel R Lewis - AltLd - 30/Mar/13 with Steve Kedward

tractorbachcoch - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Peter, Teresa

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Clear blue skies perfect ice
R_W_M - 2nd rpt - 30/Mar/13 with Will

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

Ice in the south and nearly April, had to be done!
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Gethin, Welsh Jim

Took first pitch, up to the bottom of the main pitch. Jules did 3/4 of the main pitch. I climbed the final steep last few meters of the main pitch and then led the rest. Really great climb. Felt like a proper III. First grade III lead.
mattrm - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Jules Vine

A quick trip to enjoy the late winter conditions. Only one propper pitch, but it was still good fun. Lucy led the little waterfall at the end.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Lucy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

Very enjoyable in the sunshine. I had my first lead on ice on a small pitch at the top. I didnt think I would be doing that at the start of the season!
lucyh - 29/Mar/13 with James Pomeroy

Soloed up to the main falls then lead the this bit. Really enjoyed placing a few screws on lead
gethin_allen - AltLd - 29/Mar/13

Night time climb. Ice quality improved as we got higher.
Ander - Lead - 28/Mar/13 with World Class 'Articulate' player

gripped01 - Solo - 28/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/Mar/13

And again . . .
spearing05 - AltLd rpt - 26/Mar/13 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Mar/13

AF lead main pitch, top step made up of delicate chandeliers with no decent ice so bypassed on the right. Solo'd final short pitch (with encouragement)
spearing05 - 2nd rpt - 13/Mar/13 with Andrew

deano - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Ryan stokes

Still running behind the ice in the middle and top of the main pitch is delicate but climbable. Should be good this weekend
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/13 with Dave O'Brien

MorganPreece - Lead - 25/Feb/13 with Andy Cummings

More of a waterfall than Icefall, 1st and 3rd pitch not at all frozen, 2nd pitch just about climbable if your prepaired to get VERY wet
steve.warrington - TR - 26/Jan/13 with Nik Goile

Hidden - TR rpt - 26/Jan/13

bonoid - 2nd - 25/Jan/13

Carodashes - 2nd - 25/Jan/13

Webster - Lead rpt - 25/Jan/13

in good nic, looked like there was more ice than earlier in the week. Nice to climb some ice so far south.
Marti999 - Lead O/S - 25/Jan/13 with Debbie

Third time out Ice climbing and first lead on second pitch which looked the longest to me :-)
Sean Martin - AltLd RP - 25/Jan/13

Led tuff pitch
gingernick - AltLd - 24/Jan/13 with Dean Jones

Led 1st and 3rd pitches with Rob doing the main pitch. Ice fairly hollow in places but generally nice solid ice. Super route with a nice crux at the end of the main pitch.
stevez - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/13

Started route ~6pm clearly been busy during the day but ice solid and in good nick. a couple of sections were visibly re-forming in the cold while we were there. Clear skies, climbed by moonlight, thoroughly awesome.
R_W_M - Lead rpt - 24/Jan/13 with Laurence

Moonlight ascent
nickwhimster - AltLd O/S - 24/Jan/13 with Tim

TDSvejstrup - Solo O/S - 24/Jan/13

http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/unplanned-trip-torpantau
alastairbegley - Lead rpt - 24/Jan/13 with Zack Coleman

Started about 8pm. Moonlight + torch - great to be out.
Tim Sparrow - 24/Jan/13 with Nick Whimster

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 24/Jan/13

Busy but good cascades and main pitch fun!
Slick - Lead - 24/Jan/13 with Joe Bone, David Linnett

zcsharp - Solo O/S - 24/Jan/13

Brilliant climb, Set off from Bristol at 1 pm and start climbing at around 6. In good condition and was my first full ice route! Excelent!
laurence_falconer - 2nd - 24/Jan/13 with Rob Wragge-Morley

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 24/Jan/13 with Richard Nicholson, Joe Bone

Soloed last bit
justaddpowder - AltLd - 24/Jan/13 with Leo, Caroline Milree

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/13

timjones - 2nd - 22/Jan/13 with Neil McLean

Solo'd the small steps up to the main pitch. Onsight lead of main pitch but took my first lead fall just as about to pull over the top. Bounced down to step below before stopping just as rope started to come tight on last bit of gear. Didnt have the balls to face the thin/hollow ice on the left again so traversed across and went up the steep ground on the right (which turned out to be harder) Seconded top pitch.
spearing05 - AltLd dog - 22/Jan/13 with Andrew

Awesome route with a finish that can catch you off guard. Had a mental epic trying to get home, but made it out!
partz - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/13 with Alex Wade

very hard, brittle ice towards top pitch
deano - Solo - 22/Jan/13

Alex Wade - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/13 with Matt Everett

Jo sumner - AltLd O/S - 20/Jan/13 with Chris Andrews

chris687 - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/13 with Jo Sumner

http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/01/ice-climbing-torpantau-falls
alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 20/Jan/13 with Neil Morbey

Great Morning out! so good! ice was poor in sections but all was good! :D 4 in the morning start was worth it! :D
MorganPreece - 09/Feb/12 with Lee Coiler, Matt Smith, Emma Cordani, Andy Cummings

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/12

First ice climb, great fun! Awesome harder move about half way up!
alexei.nicholas - 2nd - 05/Feb/12 with James davis

1st proper ice, loved it
steve-grigg - 2nd - 04/Feb/12 with David Webster

first water ice lead in the uk! hidden gem!
Webster - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/12

timjones - 04/Feb/12

Jim Brooke - Lead O/S - 04/Feb/12 with Rich

gripped01 - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Feb/12

gingernick - Lead - Dec/11 with Dean Jones

Good fun route, had it to our selves, top bit of main pitch bit sketchy and not really there had to carry rope and rack back on my own as tim dumped gear and legged it to sign on.
john heaton - Lead - 31/Jan/11 with Tim Adams

melting in places and hollow in others. some plastic ice to be found though. Soloed all but the main pitch
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 27/Dec/10 with B.Brewer

Lead both pitches. Ice at the very top of main pitch was thin and fragile. Did some mixed moves on the left edge of it, next to vertical crack in the rock. Beautiful sunny christmas day.
andrzej kierzek - Lead O/S - 25/Dec/10 with Tara

Hidden - Lead - 07/Dec/10

First ice climbing experience, amazing day!
Burty21 - 2nd O/S - 07/Dec/10 with climber_medic

Top of the main pitch was a bit sketchy as there was a massive piece of ice seemingly levitating and ready to come off. Conditions should improve though with the cold weather forecast for this week
francois - Lead - 05/Dec/10 with Mike K

deano - AltLd rpt - 04/Dec/10 with ryan stokes, martin lewis

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10

JFCunningham - AltLd - 04/Dec/10

Great Climb, good ice.
Tempest - 2nd - 04/Dec/10 with mike kann

Eventful. From getting lost on the plateau in the dark after waiting for all the other parties, do ended up nose first in a ditch in the car on the way home. The climb was good though.
Caspar - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/10 with Tim

aged_ape - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/10 with Caspian

Andy White - 2nd rpt - 01/Dec/10 with Kevin Evans

Climbed this in perfect blue sky conditions, it was a bit wet at the bottom, but had good consolidated ice on the main wall of climbing. The top sector had an ice fan and had become quite steep (steeper than grade 3) on the right, so we took this line. :0) A great little climb.
sasmojo - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Daniel B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/10

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 09/Jan/10 with rob wm

R_W_M - 2nd - 09/Jan/10 with douglas, Bristoldave

Sarah Black - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Mark Joyce

timjones - Lead - 07/Jan/10 with Wayne Penzer

Main pitch only, but what a great trip. It snowed all the way making for a tough walk in and out.!
timjones - Lead - 08/Feb/09 with Phil Lewis

led little pitch after Coups led main pitch. Awesome day out, started with inversion, ice route and good slog round the mountains.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - AltLd - 10/Jan/09 with Coups. Paul and Rich

First time on (outside) ice, so up and down several times, including improbable icicles to the right of the main falls. Footing broke and fell on an ice screw, which actually held!
iksander - AltLd - 10/Jan/09 with Jason and Rog

daviesp2 - 2nd - 10/Jan/09

timjones - Lead - 10/Jan/09 with Joe Mclean

At night - Full moon!
Cardi - AltLd rpt - 09/Jan/09 with Ryan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/09

tombeasley - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/09

gareth r - 04/Jan/09 with Hywel & Paul

simonw1 - AltLd - 04/Jan/09 with Ralph and Gavin

eagleopus - Lead rpt - 04/Jan/09 with Gareth & Paul

Andy White - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Kevin Evans

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 03/Jan/09 with jg

Seconded top pitch with another party as Pete had cold hands. South Wales winter action at last!!!
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/09 with Pete D

Top section seemed harder than before
deano - Solo - 03/Jan/09

Gareth T - TR - 03/Jan/09 with Mike Ellis

timjones - 03/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/09

Final little step very thin. great climb descent in dark.
ross duffield - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/09 with row

cjohn62 - Lead - Jan/09 with andy

On own at night. Fantastic route but traversed off half way up main pitch. Too bold and dinner plating so didnt fancy night at the bottom with broken legs. Completed upper pitches. Will come back for this one.
philhilo - Solo dnf - Jan/09

Tunel fell and fractured his ankle
deano - 2nd - 29/Dec/08 with tunnel morgan

Mark Salter - Dec/08 with David Bingham

deano - Solo - 23/Dec/07 with tunnel morgan

Poor ice due to thaw.
gareth r - Lead - 22/Dec/07 with Hywel

monkeyjumper - 2nd - Dec/07

eagleopus - 2nd O/S - Dec/07 with Gareth

Tim W - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/05 with Andrew Davidson

chilly in Petes car
leland stamper - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/82 with pete crutchley, hugh rawson, richard baynes

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BStar, Trevers, JonmapDL, Adam T, tweedcore, Trefo, Hewin, stevez, monsteratt, petersheppard

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard IV0 of 17
IV0 of 17
easy IV0 of 17
hard III2 of 17
III14 of 17
easy III0 of 17
hard II/III1 of 17
II/III0 of 17
easy II/III0 of 17
3 Stars3 of 18
2 Stars13 of 18
1 Star2 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Soloed10 of 118 (8.5%)
Lead35 of 118 (29.7%)
Followed20 of 118 (16.9%)
Toproped3 of 118 (2.5%)
Alt Leads41 of 118 (34.7%)
Unknown9 of 118 (7.6%)

'Climbed'50 of 118 (42.4%)
clean O/S50 of 118 (42.4%)
clean rpt15 of 118 (12.7%)
clean RP1 of 118 (0.8%)
dogged1 of 118 (0.8%)
dnf1 of 118 (0.8%)