Central Gully*** III
[The third and steepest icefall in Central Gully, Lurchers Crag (in lean snow conditions), 2 kb]Several ice pitches with easy ground in between. Approach from Lairigh Ghru Great views to Braeriach. Mostly ice screw protection.

Photo: The third and steepest icefall in Central Gully, Lurchers Crag (in lean snow conditions) © Steven Andrews
View all 13 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 26 wishlists.

ColdAndWet - AltLd - 03/Mar/15 with Jeremy Windsor

More snow than on north gully yesterday, first ice pitch very delicate with the next not in condition today, this can be turned on the right. The third and forth ice pitches are long (20m) and great value at grade 3+.
jon59 - Lead - 25/Feb/15

Meinertzhagen - 2nd - 25/Feb/15 with Jon Evans

djwall - AltLd - 18/Feb/15

Lead all pitches. Last step was OK. Lower sections were thin and wet
andrzej kierzek - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/15

Marginal. Very sugary low down but the main pitch was awesome.
arose - Lead - 14/Feb/15 with Claire Hoolohan, Hannah Francis

Rebeccaneal - 2nd - 14/Feb/15

Tightsgirl - 2nd - 14/Feb/15 with Ali Rose, Claire Hoolohan

Good condition, glad thankful to whoever had kicked a bucket foothold on the steepest pitch. Great weather, too hot at times and glad of shade at one point.
Parkie - AltLd - 08/Feb/15 with Andy B

Baking in the sun. I thought the ice was a bit cruddy and melty in places but apparently it was just me....
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Catrin Nichols

Sunny and warm!
catrin289 - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/15 with Liam Ingram

shaunhumphreys - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with pete, franhammond92

Great day out. Fat ice and fun moves. Lead P2
franhammond92 - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Pete, Shaun Humphreys

excellent route, really good ice, led the main ice pitch at the top which was good, sustained but no particular hard move
pete1993 - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Shaun, Fran

Awesome route some steep sections felt harder than 3! loved it
aljones91 - AltLd - 05/Feb/15 with Ben hester

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/15

Teaching
gripped01 - Lead - 31/Jan/15 with Andy Grieves

Two nice ice pitches, more like grade IV in current conditions. Soloed the rest.
baileyswalk - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/15 with Jack

Turned out to be a fine day. Top pitch climbed in sunshine - though a bit melty! 2 ice pitches felt steep and long for a Grade 3.
johnkeith - 2nd - 22/Jan/15 with Michael Sandison

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/15

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jan/15

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jan/15

Walked in ambitiously hoping the ice would still be in, we were wrong. Everything is gone, just flowing water over the rocks. Started up the snow field and quickly bailed left onto the buttress to escape the spray. Scrambled up the left-hand buttress to the summit. Warm and wet.
SkylarLobdell - 09/Mar/14 with Joe

walk in and out with strong winds. Did not climb due to very poor snow conditions and lots of ice melt. Climbed out of valley up a horrible loose scramble
justaddpowder - Lead dnf - 05/Mar/14 with Nathan Robbins, Caroline Milree, Keiran O' (K'dog)

Hidden - 04/Mar/14

John Roe - Lead - 03/Mar/14 with Will Jabore, Alex Fitzpatrick

First ice step was chossy with difficult to place screws. Second ice step was glorious and solid, with screw placements very good. Beautiful route in good weather.
brighters - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/14

Lower two ice steps were rotten, middle step was good as was the top section. Great neve all the way when not on ice. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/03/central-gully-lurchers-crag/
alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/14 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - Lead - 02/Mar/14 with Alastair Begley

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Wonderful day out. A long route, 9 pitches
michaelb1 - AltLd - 01/Mar/14 with Andrew diver

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/14 with gwen

Bottom ice pitch not in nick, Top ice pitch was in great nick but time was against us so by-passed, I'll take a grade II. topped out to gorgeous sunset over sron an lairige but howling wind and squall on lurchers. Great day.
mr_drains - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14 with The Defecator

lll/lV with ice pitches. walk in via the Charlamaine gap
drsdave - 2nd - 23/Feb/14 with Phil B, Mat

Thick ice & neve. Lovely nick. No loose snow or cornice.
Brucemacrosson - Solo - 22/Feb/14 with Simon Opit

Good condition
philboy - AltLd - 22/Feb/14 with Dave, matt g

III/IV direct, nice route but all pitches avoidable at the moment on grade II ground.
LakesWinter - AltLd - 22/Feb/14 with Dave, Phil B

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14

Bit windy at the top! in my novice opinion the ice was in good enough nick. What a great day out!
joeallen28 - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/14

Very banked out, took a rib above last icefall on the right to add interest, at about tech 4/5
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/14 with Joe Beagly

I think I did the left hand finish of this route, but am not totally sure.
adam 24 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

found the right gully this time! first ice step wasnt great so romped up the neve to the right (which is the more natural gully line anyway!) two main ice steps rather banked out so at the lower end of the grade and all intervening snow was good firm neve. would give it 1 star
Webster - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/14

Hidden - 12/Feb/14

First two pitches up the gully hard work due to snow conditions, ice is good on both ice falls although gear was hard won.
jon59 - Lead - 09/Feb/14

Rain on approach, met a team who backed off. Carried on to 'investigate'. Bottom ice pitch gone, 2nd doable -ish, two chicken shoots avoid these. Roped up for last ice pitch wet but thick, short but stiff for III.
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/14 with adrian williams

adrian williams - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/14 with Glenn Bloomer

Stunning weather despite the forecast and nice to find this in reasonable nick. First ice pitch thin but entertaining, second hollow and scary, third fat and blue. A bit too much easy ground to really justify lots of stars though!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/14 with Debbie Lee

Rickrick - 17/Jan/14

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jan/14

gavmac - Lead - 10/Jan/14 with Kyle MacKay

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/13

Good Route, 4 ice pitches, last one was grade IV but short. Good belays (mainly ice). Ice was good but starting to drip later in the day. Well recommended.
Andy Hewison - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Iain Robertson

fire_munki - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/13 with Al Halewood

two good pitches and lots of easy ground. started up an easy introductory gully which arrived at the rhs of the first good pitch-looking at pictures think there's a lower pitch which wasn't well formed today
morsy - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with peter berwick

Pete23 - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with Stephen Mors

markwarner - Jan/13

tim20 - 2013

Right top pitch on 10m ice fall Fell on ice screw
justaddpowder - AltLd - 21/Dec/12 with Leo

ice was melting but still pretty thick and plenty good enough for ice screws. lead second ice pitch, moved together through easy mid section. took the right fork at the top which had a short steep ice fall of about grade IV
Webster - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/12

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/12 with David Webster

nowler - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with hamish i

guy757 - Lead - 04/Feb/12

Three big ice pitches, the bottom one being pretty thin and the top one defineately warrantling IV. Fun place to get out of the wind.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Arjan

Callum Anderson - 2012

kenneM - AltLd - 19/Dec/11 with Steve Crosby-Jones, Steve Marner

Jedi Solo. Rubbish snow and ice conditions apart from short icy groove on the righthand gully near the top. Avoided early ice pitch as looking really thin. Route we swam up worth about II.
freemanTom - Solo - 14/Feb/11 with Paul Wells

Not the best conditions, but a good day on a safe-ish route when the northern corries were avalancing. Avoided the lower icefall (wasn't there), swam up deep snow, and climbed a good ice chimney near the top. Probably worth grade II in this condition.
size9hex - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Tom Evans

Still hanging in there despite sun starting to hit it. Turned into a beautiful day and apart from a few walkers heading for Braeriach not another soul around. Can only imagine the carnage going on that is Sneachda on a Saturday.
Captain Solo - Solo - 12/Feb/11

50% ice, 50% water
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

John Workman - 2nd - 09/Jan/11 with Apprentice

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/11

hedgehog77 - 2nd - 07/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11

Mr.Billiams - AltLd - 03/Jan/11 with Tom

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/10

Hidden - 11/Jan/10

nicjbuk - AltLd - 28/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/08

dthomson - 12/Jan/08 with pete mayhew

A big day out! Lovely weather.
JdotP - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/08 with Nicholas Dominelli Whiteley

Awesome and quiet. Good choice if northern corries are stuffed
tallthinmonkey - Lead O/S - Jan/08 with Ewan Paterson

Ander - AltLd - 07/Jan/03

Hidden - Lead - 2001

Hidden - Solo - 2001

Hidden - 1999

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jan/98

nickdonohue - AltLd - 19/Mar/96 with Caley Latham

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
philgillespie, Jonny M, joe hallam, Jordangask, fifth, islandlynx, Stuart Hurworth, ryan_naked24, vix, aldo56, Gazlynn, Martin85, Adamski1986, iksander, Dustin, rusty_nails

Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard IV0 of 28
IV0 of 28
easy IV3 of 28
hard III7 of 28
III18 of 28
easy III0 of 28
hard II/III0 of 28
II/III0 of 28
easy II/III0 of 28
3 Stars6 of 25
2 Stars15 of 25
1 Star4 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
DNF