Central Gully*** III
[Looking down Central Gully, Lurcher's above the third ice pitch, 2 kb]Several ice pitches with easy ground in between. Approach from Lairigh Ghru Great views to Braeriach. Mostly ice screw protection.

Photo: Looking down Central Gully, Lurcher's above the third ice pitch © Paul035
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This climb is in 74 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Walked in ambitiously hoping the ice would still be in, we were wrong. Everything is gone, just flowing water over the rocks. Started up the snow field and quickly bailed left onto the buttress to escape the spray. Scrambled up the left-hand buttress to the summit. Warm and wet.
SkylarLobdell - 09/Mar/14 with Joe

walk in and out with strong winds. Did not climb due to very poor snow conditions and lots of ice melt. Climbed out of valley up a horrible loose scramble
justaddpowder - Lead dnf - 05/Mar/14 with Nathan Robbins, Caroline Milree, Keiran O' (K'dog)

RAF MR Winter Course
Tarquin - 04/Mar/14

John Roe - Lead - 03/Mar/14 with Will Jabore, Alex Fitzpatrick

First ice step was chossy with difficult to place screws. Second ice step was glorious and solid, with screw placements very good. Beautiful route in good weather.
brighters - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/14

Lower two ice steps were rotten, middle step was good as was the top section. Great neve all the way when not on ice. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/03/central-gully-lurchers-crag/
alastairbegley - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/14 with Richard Nicholson

Slick - Lead - 02/Mar/14 with Alastair Begley

Hidden - 2nd - 02/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Mar/14

Wonderful day out. A long route, 9 pitches
michaelb1 - AltLd - 01/Mar/14 with Andrew diver

Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/14 with gwen

Bottom ice pitch not in nick, Top ice pitch was in great nick but time was against us so by-passed, I'll take a grade II. topped out to gorgeous sunset over sron an lairige but howling wind and squall on lurchers. Great day.
mr_drains - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/14 with The Defecator

lll/lV with ice pitches. walk in via the Charlamaine gap
drsdave - 2nd - 23/Feb/14 with Phil B, Mat

Thick ice & neve. Lovely nick. No loose snow or cornice.
Brucemacrosson - Solo - 22/Feb/14 with Simon Opit

Good condition
philboy - AltLd - 22/Feb/14 with Dave, matt g

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/14

Bit windy at the top! in my novice opinion the ice was in good enough nick. What a great day out!
joeallen28 - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/14

Very banked out, took a rib above last icefall on the right to add interest, at about tech 4/5
Lawrie Brand - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/14 with Joe Beagly

I think I did the left hand finish of this route, but am not totally sure.
adam 24 - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

found the right gully this time! first ice step wasnt great so romped up the neve to the right (which is the more natural gully line anyway!) two main ice steps rather banked out so at the lower end of the grade and all intervening snow was good firm neve. would give it 1 star
Webster - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/14

Hidden - 12/Feb/14

First two pitches up the gully hard work due to snow conditions, ice is good on both ice falls although gear was hard won.
jon59 - Lead - 09/Feb/14

Rain on approach, met a team who backed off. Carried on to 'investigate'. Bottom ice pitch gone, 2nd doable -ish, two chicken shoots avoid these. Roped up for last ice pitch wet but thick, short but stiff for III.
Zoomer - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/14 with adrian williams

adrian williams - 2nd O/S - 19/Jan/14 with Glenn Bloomer

Stunning weather despite the forecast and nice to find this in reasonable nick. First ice pitch thin but entertaining, second hollow and scary, third fat and blue. A bit too much easy ground to really justify lots of stars though!
MrRiley - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/14 with Debbie Lee

Rickrick - 17/Jan/14

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jan/14

Hidden - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Feb/13

Good Route, 4 ice pitches, last one was grade IV but short. Good belays (mainly ice). Ice was good but starting to drip later in the day. Well recommended.
Andy Hewison - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/13 with Iain Robertson

fire_munki - 2nd O/S - 07/Feb/13 with Al Halewood

two good pitches and lots of easy ground. started up an easy introductory gully which arrived at the rhs of the first good pitch-looking at pictures think there's a lower pitch which wasn't well formed today
morsy - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with peter berwick

Pete23 - AltLd - 02/Feb/13 with Stephen Mors

markwarner - Jan/13

tim20 - 2013

Right top pitch on 10m ice fall Fell on ice screw
justaddpowder - AltLd - 21/Dec/12 with Leo

ice was melting but still pretty thick and plenty good enough for ice screws. lead second ice pitch, moved together through easy mid section. took the right fork at the top which had a short steep ice fall of about grade IV
Webster - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/12

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 16/Dec/12 with David Webster

nowler - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with hamish i

guy757 - Lead - 04/Feb/12

Three big ice pitches, the bottom one being pretty thin and the top one defineately warrantling IV. Fun place to get out of the wind.
Steven Andrews - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Arjan

Callum Anderson - 2012

kenneM - AltLd - 19/Dec/11 with Steve Crosby-Jones, Steve Marner

Jedi Solo. Rubbish snow and ice conditions apart from short icy groove on the righthand gully near the top. Avoided early ice pitch as looking really thin. Route we swam up worth about II.
freemanTom (Guildford MC) - Solo - 14/Feb/11 with Paul Wells

Not the best conditions, but a good day on a safe-ish route when the northern corries were avalancing. Avoided the lower icefall (wasn't there), swam up deep snow, and climbed a good ice chimney near the top. Probably worth grade II in this condition.
size9hex - Solo O/S - 14/Feb/11 with Tom Evans

Still hanging in there despite sun starting to hit it. Turned into a beautiful day and apart from a few walkers heading for Braeriach not another soul around. Can only imagine the carnage going on that is Sneachda on a Saturday.
Captain Solo - Solo - 12/Feb/11

50% ice, 50% water
mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 06/Feb/11 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/11 with mik

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11

John Workman - 2nd - 09/Jan/11 with Apprentice

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jan/11

hedgehog77 - 2nd - 07/Jan/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/11

Mr.Billiams - AltLd - 03/Jan/11 with Tom

PAJames - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/10

Hidden - 11/Jan/10

nicjbuk - AltLd - 28/Jan/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/08

dthomson - 12/Jan/08 with pete mayhew

A big day out! Lovely weather.
JdotP - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/08 with Nicholas Dominelli Whiteley

Awesome and quiet. Good choice if northern corries are stuffed
tallthinmonkey - Lead O/S - Jan/08 with Ewan Paterson

Ander - AltLd - 07/Jan/03

Hidden - Lead - 2001

Tarquin - 1999

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jan/98

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
fifth, islandlynx, Stuart Hurworth, ryan_naked24, vix, aldo56, Gazlynn, Martin85, Adamski1986, iksander, Dustin, rusty_nails

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard IV0 of 17
IV0 of 17
easy IV2 of 17
hard III4 of 17
III11 of 17
easy III0 of 17
hard II/III0 of 17
II/III0 of 17
easy II/III0 of 17
3 Stars3 of 16
2 Stars10 of 16
1 Star3 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

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