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Il Duce*** E5 6b

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The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot. Photo on page 167.. 1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond.. 2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.. 3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.. 4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Extreme Corners, UK Lonely Leads.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

was so so greasy, finally sat on a cam at the roof as holds where so wet. other than that whole thing was free and went well. lead both the crux pitches. 95% sure wouldnt have rested if dry, but bet it rarely is. amazing adventure.
jamesturnbull - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Brown - AltLd - 05/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Sep/11

Lead crux pitch. Emotional!
JulesV - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will Boxen

Awesome! Led middle pitch
billb - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

Dispatched with manflu, a big sea and damp holds on the crux. Like Jules says - it was emotional but utterly brilliant!
Graham Atkins - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

lead crux pitch
tuftynick - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/11

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 2007 with John Baker

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/97

shark - Lead O/S - 1997 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Oct/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 1988 with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster

Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Nov/87

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/78

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexjz, Ed Babs, Hidden, Calder, J.A.Thomson, centurion05, Ian Jones, Dr Caterpillar, datoon

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard E60 of 6
E60 of 6
easy E61 of 6
hard E53 of 6
E51 of 6
easy E51 of 6
hard E40 of 6
E40 of 6
easy E40 of 6
hard 6c0 of 6
6c0 of 6
easy 6c1 of 6
hard 6b0 of 6
6b2 of 6
easy 6b1 of 6
hard 6a2 of 6
6a0 of 6
easy 6a0 of 6
3 Stars6 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 25 (24.0%)
Alt Leads14 of 25 (56.0%)
Unknown5 of 25 (20.0%)

'Climbed'14 of 25 (56.0%)
clean O/S8 of 25 (32.0%)
dogged1 of 25 (4.0%)
dnf2 of 25 (8.0%)