Il Duce*** E5 6a
[Il Duce p2, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond.
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Extreme Corners, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Il Duce p2 © Graham Hoey
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This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Dave lead hard pitch. I had to weight one of the cams to lean back and remove the big cam under the roof that I was too boxed to remove when passing it. Awesome. Hard through roof although safe (but i wasnt on the sharp end) and the chimney rest is very good. Bit soapy but perhaps in as good nick as it can be. Pitch 3/is sustained and peg is rotted away but thread can be found. Higher up route turns to some sort of crumbly cheese... With no guide on us Dave forced a direct exit up the main corner line... Does E5 4c exist... Maybe! But what a line. Kerching!
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Dave Toon

datoon - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with mattnuttall

A proper sketch adventure. Hard! Greased out the slippy crux utterly exhausted. Dodgy nut caught a potentially nasty fall. Pulled the ropes and scraped through second go. On the same day as Darkinbad - mega!
quiffhanger - AltLd - 08/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

theotherpetehill - 2nd - 08/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

was so so greasy, finally sat on a cam at the roof as holds where so wet. other than that whole thing was free and went well. lead both the crux pitches. 95% sure wouldnt have rested if dry, but bet it rarely is. amazing adventure.
jamesturnbull - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Brown - AltLd - 05/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Sep/11

Lead crux pitch. Emotional!
JulesV - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will Boxen

Awesome! Led middle pitch
billb - AltLd - 26/Jun/11 with jbvulliamy

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

Dispatched with manflu, a big sea and damp holds on the crux. Like Jules says - it was emotional but utterly brilliant!
Graham Atkins - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

lead crux pitch
tuftynick - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/11

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 2007 with John Baker

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/97

shark - Lead O/S - 1997 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Oct/94

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 06/Aug/93 with Phil Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 1988 with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster

Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Nov/87

Marcus - 1980 with Wright Nichols

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/78

Must have been a very early ascent. Got to the top and found that Nipper had no belay and had untied from the rope!
pete osullivan - 2nd - May/78 with Nipper Harrison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WilliamD, alexjz, Ed Babs, Calder, centurion05, Ian Jones, Dr Caterpillar

Total votes cast 27
hard E60 of 9
E60 of 9
easy E61 of 9
hard E56 of 9
E51 of 9
easy E51 of 9
hard E40 of 9
E40 of 9
easy E40 of 9
hard 6c0 of 9
6c0 of 9
easy 6c1 of 9
hard 6b0 of 9
6b5 of 9
easy 6b1 of 9
hard 6a2 of 9
6a0 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S