Il Duce*** E5 6a
[Il Duce p2, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The central corner that rises from the overhung ledge at the base of High Cliff is a stunning line. Technically reasonable but the commitment required earns it the grade. The nature of the climbing and the situation is very serious and this is not a place to get into trouble. Start at the bottom of the rocky ramp that slopes seawards below the gearing-up spot.
1) 5a, 20m. Traverse left to a protruding ledge and continue around an arete to a large platform beneath roofs and the main corner as for Vagabond.
2) 6a, 20m. From the right-hand side of the large platform, climb the right-hand of two converging cracks past a short, hard section to better holds beneath the roof. Committing moves leftwards gain a precarious rest in a chimney on the lip of the roof. Move up this and its left wall to a small stance.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the main corner, moving left around a bulge, to a good ledge and belay.
4) 4c, 24m. Climb the crack in the right wall of the corner for 10m then step back left and follow the groove to a roof. Move rightwards easily but on deteriorating rock until a fault-line leads up to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, UK Extreme Corners, UK Lonely Leads, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.

Photo: Il Duce p2 © Graham Hoey
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This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

Dave lead hard pitch. I had to weight one of the cams to lean back and remove the big cam under the roof that I was too boxed to remove when passing it. Awesome. Hard through roof although safe (but i wasnt on the sharp end) and the chimney rest is very good. Bit soapy but perhaps in as good nick as it can be. Pitch 3/is sustained and peg is rotted away but thread can be found. Higher up route turns to some sort of crumbly cheese... With no guide on us Dave forced a direct exit up the main corner line... Does E5 4c exist... Maybe! But what a line. Kerching!
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with Dave Toon

datoon - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/15 with mattnuttall

A proper sketch adventure. Hard! Greased out the slippy crux utterly exhausted. Dodgy nut caught a potentially nasty fall. Pulled the ropes and scraped through second go. On the same day as Darkinbad - mega!
quiffhanger - AltLd - 08/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

theotherpetehill - 2nd - 08/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

was so so greasy, finally sat on a cam at the roof as holds where so wet. other than that whole thing was free and went well. lead both the crux pitches. 95% sure wouldnt have rested if dry, but bet it rarely is. amazing adventure.
jamesturnbull - Lead - 06/Oct/13 with neil mcadie

Brown - AltLd - 05/Sep/12 with Andy R

Hidden - Lead dnf - 02/Sep/11

Lead crux pitch. Emotional!
JulesV - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Will Boxen

Awesome! Led middle pitch
billb - AltLd - 26/Jun/11 with jbvulliamy

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

Dispatched with manflu, a big sea and damp holds on the crux. Like Jules says - it was emotional but utterly brilliant!
Graham Atkins - AltLd - 26/Jun/11

lead crux pitch
tuftynick - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/11

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 2007 with John Baker

Bern - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/97

shark - Lead O/S - 1997 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/95

Hidden - AltLd dnf - Oct/94

Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 06/Aug/93 with Phil Baker

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/90

Johnny Baker - AltLd - 1988 with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster

Hidden - AltLd dog - 07/Nov/87

Marcus - 1980 with Wright Nichols

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Jun/78

Must have been a very early ascent. Got to the top and found that Nipper had no belay and had untied from the rope!
pete osullivan - 2nd - May/78 with Nipper Harrison

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WilliamD, alexjz, Ed Babs, Calder, centurion05, Ian Jones, Dr Caterpillar

Total votes cast 27
hard E60 of 9
E60 of 9
easy E61 of 9
hard E56 of 9
E51 of 9
easy E51 of 9
hard E40 of 9
E40 of 9
easy E40 of 9
hard 6c0 of 9
6c0 of 9
easy 6c1 of 9
hard 6b0 of 9
6b5 of 9
easy 6b1 of 9
hard 6a2 of 9
6a0 of 9
easy 6a0 of 9
hard 5c0 of 9
5c0 of 9
easy 5c0 of 9
3 Stars9 of 9
2 Stars0 of 9
1 Star0 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S