|15 pitches. |
An enjoyable route on good rock, which can be climbed early and late in the season. It follows the crack and chimney systems well to the right of via ferrata Michielli Strobel.
The route begins at the scree cone's highest point, in a small clearing below the right-hand chimney.
1) IV-, 20m. Climb the chimney for a few metres then move right to a crack. Pull through this to a ledge on the left. Cemented belay.
2) III+, 40m. Step right then ascend direct until you reach a grassy ledge. Traverse this rightwards to belay below, and slightly to the right, of a large corner.
3) IV-, 45m. Climb the crack left of the belay then exit right, following a corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Continue following the corner as it ascends gently rightwards until you reach the large ledge that splits the face.
5) I, 30m. Follow the ledge left (Spigolo Jori/Fiames Arete goes right here) passing a corner then continue around an arete to reach a vegetated clearing and a ring belay.
6) IV-, 25m. Climb a vertical crack to reach a vegetated ramp. Follow this right to the base of a second wider crack. Climb this left to the belay.
7) IV, 25m. Continue in the crack for a few more metres towards the yellow roofs above. Then make an exposed traverse right on grey rock to reach the base of a large chimney which characterises the central face.
8) IV+, 25m. Climb the chimney, initially steep, to reach a large yellow niche. Continue following the chimney which bears right, then keep in the left-hand crack to reach a ledge.
9) IV, 20m. Continue following the chimney with sustained climbing to reach a vertical face, 10m below a large overhang.
10) IV+, 30m. Follow the chimney to reach the roof above. Keep on the left wall, then exit left over easier ground before continuing to reach a good ledge.
11) IV, 20m. Climb a pale chimney to the left of the belay, pass below the large chockstone to reach a ledge inside the chimney.
12) III, 30m. Move left for a few metres to go around the arete on the left of the chimney. Climb a ramp of pale rock which leads to the final steep face below the summit.
13) IV+, 30m. Climb the face via a crack, then continue direct with steep climbing. Follow easier ground to reach a crack, then climb this left to a belay.
14) IV, 35m. Climb a crack above diagonally right to reach easier ground. Follow a gully which leads to the shoulder of Punta Fiames, close to the final cables of via ferrata Michelli Strobel.
15) I, 80m. Follow the path up the plateau to reach the summit cross. © ROCKFAX
UKC Logbook Description
The classic route on the south face, 400m, 15 pitches of up to IV+
Dimai, verzi, Heath 1901