The open groove 3m Right of Lion is very low in the grade and has some nice intricate climbing. Tackle it direct past a rest ledge on the left. Take LOTS of small wires and little else. Use holds on the Right wall to assist the exit up a shallower groove.

R. Wallace, A. Wallace 12/Oct/2003

Ticklists: Central Belt - Local Classics.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 14/Aug 2nd
Nicholas Wylie 22/Jun Lead O/S
Bron 21/Jun 2nd dog
with Dave
smollett 08/Jun Lead

Good route. Needs more traffic. Some wood from the top removed most of my gear but thankfully I was up by then

with Lucy
Lucyma 08/Jun 2nd

clean send - nice bridging made it easier

george5699 10/May Lead dog

Rested on gear just before top out - clean next time!

Kevin Woods 31/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A really fantastic route.

dmacmorris 31/Aug/15 2nd O/S

After watching Kevin smooth lead couldn't wait to get on. Hidden gem.

J_Trottet 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Soloed the first 2m in trainers to give the leader more rope to build a belay. Definitely easier for the tall this one.

Brian Pollock 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Techy and reachy with plenty of gear. Crux felt 5c. Probably soft for the tall but felt fair at E2 to me.

with Joe
mishabruml 13/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Topout of your dreams...

with Laura Martin
Hugh Simons 11/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Seconded last year but couldn't remember any of the moves, other than that you need to bridge! Took a while to get off the ground but steady after that. Good route.

DavidMcK 11/Aug/15 Lead β

Had some beta from Hugh, easiest E2 going but a fun climb

Hidden 22/Jun/15 2nd
libby.southgate 22/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Euan Richardson, Euan Strachan
JosefGoeth 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
bduffin 11/Jun/15 2nd
IggyGoesPop 04/Jun/15 Lead dog

Fell basically to the bottom so kinda as if done clean with preplaced gear 2 meters up :D

EBailey 30/May/15 2nd
Timothy Miller 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Euan Todd 24/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Richard
Andy Moles 24/Jun/14 2nd
with Ferdia
ferdia 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
Euan Todd 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Great line, well protected with interesting moves.

Hugh Simons 20/Jun/14 2nd O/S
olekemi 27/May/14 2nd O/S
with Robin W
Macleod 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Ian Rickerby
ric ??/2014 -
John McKenna 01/Oct/13 Lead β
Martin McKenna - UKC 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really nice route.

Brendan 23/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Really good route: great line, interesting moves and surprisingly well protected if you take enough small wires. Recommend giving it a brush before leading though.

with Del
james1978 ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Andy Hewison 11/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Got stuck on crux fairly low down, hold on left broke off in my hand! Need to come back for another try. Neale made it look easy. Needs more traffic.

with Neale
Hidden 11/Jul/13 Lead O/S
gjd 21/May/13 2nd rpt
with Gurumed
gurumed 21/May/13 Lead O/S
with gjd
tom.e 07/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Danny
Alasdair Fulton 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Nice, a couple more holds fell off and the start is a bramble-whack!

with Dougie
Dougie Harvey 25/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Chad123 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Much better and much easier than it looks, nice sustained groove with a cool finish. Easy for grade but just about worth E2 as pretty technical. Two stars.

with Emily
timcussins 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with ghr
Dougie Harvey 28/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Pat-H 20/Jun/11 Lead
with mhairi
Mhairi G 20/Jun/11 2nd
with Patrick
cat22 14/May/11 2nd O/S

Holds are a bit snappy, and probably more stuff waiting to come off.

with Mike
GraMc 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Euan Strachan 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
MarcusP 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Paul, Libby
libby.southgate ?/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Smelly Fox 24/Mar/11 Lead G/U

Took a ground-fall from the top of this a couple of years back when a hold snapped!

with Heather Fox
sebrider 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Topher
Dr Toph 20/Feb/11 2nd rpt

Has definitely benefited from a bit of traffic. Pretty clean now.

with Seb
KeithAlexander 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
karinh 02/Sep/10 2nd β

Keith led.

Ross Barnes 17/Aug/10 Lead
with Neil A
Hidden 03/Aug/10 2nd
Ian Jones 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Neat climbing. Difficult to pinpoint a 5c move anywhere.

gjd 25/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing. Each time it feels desperate new holds come to light.

with Mark Davison
jonnie3430 29/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Euan
Neil Adams 28/Mar/10 Lead β
with Fiend
dj_brigham05 20/Mar/10 Lead O/S
pete87abs 20/Mar/10 2nd β
salix ??/2010 Lead O/S
Euan Strachan 15/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Tropher, Henward
Dr Toph 15/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Needed a bit of bushwhacking at the start, and had to clean the mud out of the top crack with my nutkey to get gear. But the climbing itself is really fun and flowing. Just needs more traffic.

with Euan, Ed
Hidden 28/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/09 2nd
Lawrie Brand 15/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Nice technical bridging route, more traffic would sort out the loose rock at top.

Dougie Harvey 19/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Dave Barrow
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
madeleine, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, David Woods, Hidden, seanhendo123, Hanakin, Hidden, libby.southgate, Sean Bell, Hidden, Neil Mackenzie, climbinmunkey, andymoin, Ian Jones
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set