Central Gully II/III
[pen y fan north face 20 Feb, 1 kb]200m, 5 pitches. From the summit of Pen y Fan, descend the north ridge for 150m, past an obvious gully on the right. Immediately after this, take a steep-ish subsidiary ridge right (east) that leads down towards the NE face. Contour around the bottom of the face for 100-150m until you arrive at wide rubble filled gully, initially running diagonally up rightwards, with several mixed steps leading up towards the steep headwall, a prominent rib on it's right side and a less well defined gully/wide groove on the left. Follow the wide gully, easily at first until a short ice step provides the first technicality. Above this are two further rock steps, both mixed and separated by sections of snow, followed by the turfy headwall taking the line of least resistance.

Photo: pen y fan north face 20 Feb © shunty
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 46 logbooks, and on 10 wishlists.

deano - Solo - 20/Jan/13 with Ryan stokes

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 15/Jan/13

In the dark by starlight and head torch, avoided head wall due to getting late and slow going with loose snow. Fantastic
spearing05 - 15/Jan/13

too warm. made it up the first ice step but traversed left onto marginally more climbable near left gully (good traverse!)
katherinesydney - 2nd dnf - 11/Feb/12 with rich smith, jim brooke

barely climable any more, ice steps were very scetchy
Webster - Solo rpt - 11/Feb/12

Did the first step, had a look at a thin dripping pillar on the 2nd, then bailed into Near Left gully.
Jim Brooke - Lead dnf - 11/Feb/12 with Katherine, Rich

Rather warm. Thin ice on the steps, unconsolidated snow and semi-frozen turf. Nonetheless great fun!
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/12 with Bald Eagle

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with James Pomeroy

Better lower down. Somehow it seemed to get less frozen as I went up... Still, got back down in time for lunch.
RedFox - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - Solo - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12

Both steps climbed - escaped to the righ on approach to head wall as snow/ice/turf was melting
spearing05 - AltLd - 03/Feb/12 with Andrew

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Feb/12

Great fun!y first winter route! Seemed rather unprotected
alexei.nicholas - 2nd - 02/Feb/12 with James davis

thin, with some good ice and frozen turf of a mixed quality. unconsolidated snow. took a diagonal left trending line out of the top of the gully. currently grade 3 with possible harder lines.
Webster - Lead O/S - 01/Feb/12

steve-grigg - 2nd - 01/Feb/12

petecox84 - 2012

simonf - Solo - 08/Dec/10

Minus the headwall.
JamieGreig - Solo O/S - 07/Dec/10

d_meacher - Lead rpt - 05/Dec/10 with Michael Mordan, Lucy Rouse

Went left at the top. Led the last pitch. Ice falls were thin, a fair amount of unconsolidated snow still.
Tempest - 2nd - 05/Dec/10 with mike kann

SamStokes - Solo O/S - 08/Jan/10 with Ben Matthews

Caspar - Lead - 03/Jan/10 with Andy

Ran away to the much more appealing looking Central Rib after a semi-spectacular detachment from about 2 feet up the first step - I blame my picks BUT I WOULD WOULDN'T I?! Surely any subsequent attempts will count as onsight?
RedFox - Solo dnf - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jan/10

gripped01 - Solo - Jan/10 with Alex Tomczynski

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - Solo O/S - 23/Dec/09

Finished up the right arete at the top. Lots of unconsolidated snow and consolidated turf.
BenTiffin - AltLd - 23/Dec/09 with Ellen Hughes

Couple of pitched sections. Lots of unconsolidated snow, some icy bits. Turf was good. Fantastic winter experience so close to home
Cardi - AltLd - 23/Dec/09 with Ryan

d_meacher - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Sarah Joyce & Flash

Rob84 - Solo O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Ed Hill

Snow and Ice conditions. Climbed this route and also Rib on right. Heavy powder conditions, but ice in gully. Full on crampons and 2 axes. Pitched the ice but otherwise climbed together. Fun!! (Also around this time did two icefalls on Rhigos, with Keith, Gareth and Hywel)
dave1 - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/09 with Keith Anderson

molemug1 - Lead - Feb/09

Walked / ran into the valley under the 1000 ft north face. Armed with nought but a pair of off-road running shoes, a (walking) ice axe and a grin. Having walked / climbed up the north face of Cribbyn for practice. I aimed to meadander up the middle and then go right - towards the tourist walking path (from Brecon), but half way up realised the gullies were full of very loose boulders (it was summer). That meant backing down the way I'd came or going straight up the middle... I thought, "Aww,... that don't look too bad" so I went for it. It got steeper and steeper until around 200 feet from the top it went vertical with the odd tiny over hang... By now I was cacking it, 800 feet up and 200 feet unroped above me. I began to say a mantra to my self "I'm in my garden, I'm in my garden" and concentrated only on the next six foot above me... Some of the boulders I hooked rocked as I pulled on them (it's vertical turf n boulder)... By now I was near shouting the mantra... Now unbeknown to me, an old chap had walked up the tourist path and was leaning over the drop because he could hear some one shouting that they were in their garden !! My last swing (onto the top) nearly went through his foot! We laughed about it soon afterwards... and I told myself not to climb crappy vertical mud in the summer again. Pen-y-Fan (north face) is far harder than Cribbyn north face... :-) Hope you enjoyed my account...
Wildy - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/08

Little snow, and ice melting all around. Still fun, and my first winter climb.
Caspar - AltLd - 25/Mar/08 with Mike Kann

billyeatspies - AltLd - Sep/98

Hidden - Solo - 11/Jan/87

Hidden - Jan/84

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, Nocka71, kiwi boy, stevez, martyn1454, GingerNathan, petersheppard

Voting
Total votes cast 15
hard III0 of 8
III0 of 8
easy III4 of 8
hard II/III0 of 8
II/III1 of 8
easy II/III3 of 8
hard II0 of 8
II0 of 8
easy II0 of 8
3 Stars1 of 7
2 Stars6 of 7
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0 Stars0 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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