200m, 5 pitches. From the summit of Pen y Fan, descend the north ridge for 150m, past an obvious gully on the right. Immediately after this, take a steep-ish subsidiary ridge right (east) that leads down towards the NE face. Contour around the bottom of the face for 100-150m until you arrive at wide rubble filled gully, initially running diagonally up rightwards, with several mixed steps leading up towards the steep headwall, a prominent rib on it's right side and a less well defined gully/wide groove on the left. Follow the wide gully, easily at first until a short ice step provides the first technicality. Above this are two further rock steps, both mixed and separated by sections of snow, followed by the turfy headwall taking the line of least resistance.

Hidden 15/Feb -
Cardi 09/Feb Solo O/S

Blue sky day, starting to melt quite quickly.

gethin_allen 08/Feb Solo

Started up the top headwall and then traversed out to the left on a bit of a ledge to finish when the going got too mingin to be soloing.

Nigel R Lewis 08/Feb Solo

Good ice on lower step but only soft snow and frozen turf on headwall

with Steve Kedward
sheelba 07/Feb AltLd

Climbed through an inversion, gorgeous with plenty of ice in the steps, although the inversion meant that the turf at the top was not frozen

Tom F Harding 07/Feb Lead O/S

The ice on the two lower steps is all well formed and turf was well frozen lower down. Remind me to buy a warthog or two.

Steve Bartle 07/Feb 2nd O/S

Great conditions. Decent ice on the 3 ice sections and turf frozen all the way up. Finished up through the headwall via the line of least resistance.

Hidden 01/Feb AltLd rpt
Hidden 01/Feb AltLd O/S
clams ?/Feb Lead
with Catherine and Chaz
CatMc ?/Feb 2nd
with Chaz, clams
AndrewP 19/Jan Solo

Uphill swimming! Not really in condition - deep snow and little ice. Only II because I avoided the headwall by traversing right onto Central Rib then Near Right Gully near the top.

deano 20/Jan/13 Solo
with Ryan stokes
Hidden 15/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
spearing05 15/Jan/13 -

In the dark by starlight and head torch, avoided head wall due to getting late and slow going with loose snow. Fantastic

katherinesydney 11/Feb/12 2nd dnf

too warm. made it up the first ice step but traversed left onto marginally more climbable near left gully (good traverse!)

Webster 11/Feb/12 Solo rpt

barely climable any more, ice steps were very scetchy

Jim Brooke 11/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Did the first step, had a look at a thin dripping pillar on the 2nd, then bailed into Near Left gully.

Poco Loco 05/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Rather warm. Thin ice on the steps, unconsolidated snow and semi-frozen turf. Nonetheless great fun!

BALD EAGLE 05/Feb/12 AltLd
with James Pomeroy
RedFox 04/Feb/12 Solo O/S

Better lower down. Somehow it seemed to get less frozen as I went up... Still, got back down in time for lunch.

Hidden 04/Feb/12 Solo
Hidden 04/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/12 Solo
Hidden 04/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
spearing05 03/Feb/12 AltLd

Both steps climbed - escaped to the righ on approach to head wall as snow/ice/turf was melting

with Andrew
Hidden 02/Feb/12 Lead O/S
alexei.nicholas 02/Feb/12 2nd

Great fun!y first winter route! Seemed rather unprotected

Webster 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S

thin, with some good ice and frozen turf of a mixed quality. unconsolidated snow. took a diagonal left trending line out of the top of the gully. currently grade 3 with possible harder lines.

steve-grigg 01/Feb/12 2nd
petecox84 ??/2012 -
simonf 08/Dec/10 Solo
JamieGreig 07/Dec/10 Solo O/S

Minus the headwall.

d_meacher 05/Dec/10 Lead rpt
with Michael Mordan, Lucy Rouse
Tempest 05/Dec/10 2nd

Went left at the top. Led the last pitch. Ice falls were thin, a fair amount of unconsolidated snow still.

SamStokes 08/Jan/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jan/10 Lead
RedFox 01/Jan/10 Solo dnf

Ran away to the much more appealing looking Central Rib after a semi-spectacular detachment from about 2 feet up the first step - I blame my picks BUT I WOULD WOULDN'T I?! Surely any subsequent attempts will count as onsight?

Hidden 01/Jan/10 2nd
Hidden 01/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jan/10 AltLd
gripped01 ?/Jan/10 Solo
with Alex Tomczynski
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 23/Dec/09 Solo O/S
BenTiffin 23/Dec/09 AltLd

Finished up the right arete at the top. Lots of unconsolidated snow and consolidated turf.

with Ellen Hughes
Cardi 23/Dec/09 AltLd

Couple of pitched sections. Lots of unconsolidated snow, some icy bits. Turf was good. Fantastic winter experience so close to home

with Ryan
d_meacher 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce & Flash
Rob84 07/Feb/09 Solo O/S
with Ed Hill
dave1 07/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

Snow and Ice conditions. Climbed this route and also Rib on right. Heavy powder conditions, but ice in gully. Full on crampons and 2 axes. Pitched the ice but otherwise climbed together. Fun!! (Also around this time did two icefalls on Rhigos, with Keith, Gareth and Hywel)

with Keith Anderson
molemug1 ?/Feb/09 Lead
Wildy 20/Jul/08 Solo O/S

Walked / ran into the valley under the 1000 ft north face. Armed with nought but a pair of off-road running shoes, a (walking) ice axe and a grin. Having walked / climbed up the north face of Cribbyn for practice. I aimed to meadander up the middle and then go right - towards the tourist walking path (from Brecon), but half way up realised the gullies were full of very loose boulders (it was summer). That meant backing down the way I'd came or going straight up the middle... I thought, "Aww,... that don't look too bad" so I went for it. It got steeper and steeper until around 200 feet from the top it went vertical with the odd tiny over hang... By now I was cacking it, 800 feet up and 200 feet unroped above me. I began to say a mantra to my self "I'm in my garden, I'm in my garden" and concentrated only on the next six foot above me... Some of the boulders I hooked rocked as I pulled on them (it's vertical turf n boulder)... By now I was near shouting the mantra... Now unbeknown to me, an old chap had walked up the tourist path and was leaning over the drop because he could hear some one shouting that they were in their garden !! My last swing (onto the top) nearly went through his foot! We laughed about it soon afterwards... and I told myself not to climb crappy vertical mud in the summer again. Pen-y-Fan (north face) is far harder than Cribbyn north face... :-) Hope you enjoyed my account...

Hidden 25/Mar/08 AltLd
billyeatspies ?/Sep/98 AltLd
alan moore ??/1988 Solo

Done as a summer route first!

Hidden 11/Jan/87 Solo
Hidden ?/Jan/84 -
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High III
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Votes cast 11
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