This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.
Climbed on a shunt. Split a tip badly cleaning the loose holds at the top so put of the solo. The Rockfax book is wrong, as all difficulties are done below 12 m. I would recommend having an exit rope as the top is very vegetated and broken. Soap/Dope on a Rope are much better, cleaner, and safer routes.
Patrick Hill - TR RP - 07/Jul/14
From the flake spikes on 'soap' a delicate step left gets you to the bottom of the crack. This crack is the crux but it is pretty short and leads to ledges. The DWS guide makes it sound like the top section is the crux (suggesting french 7a for the route if you do the true finish, but 6c+ if you go up right into soap from the ledge); But this is misleading/wrong. The top is quite easy, just a bit scary with some suspect rock and potentially you might want to check the top holds are not covered in moss, but the moves are only about tech 5a.
Ignore the E6 scare grade from someone. Maybe if it was above land it might be fair, but no way when the worst that can happen is you fall in the water.
Not as good as soap, but quite an adventure still
tim newton - Solo β - 20/Apr/13
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/98
PaulHermes - 1992
NickHarms - 1989
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alex Riley, Patrick Hill, rustaldo, gd303uk, Hidden