Gin Palace*** 7c
[strugeling on gin palace, 2 kb]18m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route, a 7b+ chimney into a harder and sustained headwall. Some will walk up the slot, others will just be totally shutdown by it, and vice-versa with the headwall. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
One of many gems left scattered around, courtesy of Yorkshires finest acid folk DJ. Ascend the obvious hanging groove past numerous bolts, pull the roof out L and finish up the energy sapping crack.

Slightly obnoxious but so much fun - very Smith.
Think working on a building site

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Classic UK F7s, Top class slate sport 7b-8a, a State of Slate, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7c & 7c+, Slate Sport.

Photo: strugeling on gin palace © Michael Allday
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 20 wishlists.

Felt like a breach birth.
FreddieSmith - Lead dog - 30/Jun/15 with Danny Grifths

Continued to fall off the top crack multiple times. It's easy when you've rested on the rope. Hard when your core is shot and you're heart rate is approaching 200 bpm. Need to get fitter (in the conventional sense, not the climbing sense).
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 14/Jun/15 with Rachel

The fourth bolt on this looks pretty dodgy to me (it moved when I tugged it...) It wouldn't be a ground fall if it came out though.
jonleighton - Lead dog - 13/Jun/15

Fell off the top crack on my final RP. Thought it would go the next day...
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 13/Jun/15 with Rachel

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/Jun/15

got the crazy headjam move, but ended up dogging more than i climbed
James Beaumont - TR dnf - 23/May/15

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/May/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 12/May/15

Awesome. Worked out the moves - super psyched to go back with fresh legs and see if I can do it clean.
quiffhanger - Lead dog - 04/May/15 with Rachel

What an introduction to slate! Heavily dogged and couldn't make it out of the groove into the top crack. Exhausting!
James S - Lead dnf - 15/Sep/14 with tom p, jack g

Hidden - Lead dog - 15/Sep/14

First 7c, great fun, interesting moves the all the way to the top!!
HAJ Francis - Lead RP - 04/Apr/14

Tom Seccombe - Lead dnf - 02/Dec/12 with tim exley

need 2 do it clean next time
Michael Allday - Lead dog - 06/Nov/11 with John beecham

awesome route. Feels quite hard for 7c but not done much on slate so don't know. 4th bolt was a bit loose, can pull it out about 1cm, (with full body weight pulling out on it).
lx - Lead - 25/Aug/11 with alison

Someone forgot to attach the big holds...
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead dnf - 2011 with Shinta Osawa

Hidden - TR dog - 11/Sep/10

Amazing. A bit of water in the top is my excuse. Nothing to do with the huge amount of energy to make one microns progress of course.
eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead dnf - 01/Jun/10 with Rich

JulesV - TR dog - 31/May/10 with Shauna Cunningham

Classic thrutching. So good.
TomPR - 15/Apr/10

TomPR - Apr/10

So hard...so fun
farmus21 - TR - 27/Mar/10 with Herve Nuttall, Mikey Goldthorpe

Fully bolted at F7c and nails
Brown - Lead dnf - 17/Oct/09 with Pete

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ollie Hensman-Crook, sparkass, Lazytraveller, Alex Riley, niall_a_allen, Harry Chaplin, Huw Cropper, Peter Reynolds, JCAshman, stuart34, Jonathan Spooner, Alex.M-M., lukea, richiebongo, McGuinness, sam820, Mike Goldthorp

Voting
Total votes cast 11
hard 7c+0 of 5
7c+0 of 5
easy 7c+0 of 5
hard 7c5 of 5
7c0 of 5
easy 7c0 of 5
hard 7b+0 of 5
7b+0 of 5
easy 7b+0 of 5
3 Stars6 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
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Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean RP
Dogged
DNF