UKClimbing.com
ads.ukclimbing.com

[ukc advertising]
Click to read about Advertising on UKC
Gwynedd > Vivian Quarry >
 
Comes the Dervish*** E3 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Menstrual Gossip
 
Flashdance >>
[Franco Cookson On 'Comes The Dervish', 3 kb]40m. The most famous route on slate? Well-chalked and visible from Pete's Eats, this stunning crackline takes the centre of the Dervish slab, passing an overlap at two thirds height.
S Haston Feb/1981

Photo: Franco Cookson On 'Comes The Dervish' © Franco Cookson
View all 31 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 224 logbooks, and on 104 wishlists.

mark mcgowan01 - 2010

cool, first E3! and onsight too! pretty hard up to the overlap then a bit dodge on the flakes! foot hold broke within a meter of topping out but lukily i stayed on! topped out as the sun set so lush view with orange clouds, not a good as pull my daisy, but a classic nevertheless.
dunkymonkey17 - Lead O/S - 11/Dec/09 with Oli Henson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/09

metal arms - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/09

Wow! Still can't believe I actually climbed this. I wouldn't bother with the nut key, it's pretty hard to find where it goes (I couldn't) and you just get pumped out when you'd be better climbing the thing. Not too cruxy, pretty sustained and worth the hype. First proper E3. Get on it before the bottom becomes even more polished!
Southern Man - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Marshy

TimPerkin - Lead - 14/Sep/09 with Dave Gale

Brilliant, brilliant route! It's been on my wish list for years and years. Fantastic feeling to finally get on it and up it clean! (I actually had a very brief go at this a very long time ago (1998), when I wasn't climbing anywhere near the grade. Didn't even get to the first slot back then, before bailing, so I reckon my ascent today is effectively on-sight (apart from the first 2m!)).
DavidR - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Holly Adamthwaite

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/09

Hard for an E1/2 climber - had a bit of a battle but thoroughly enjoyed it once I got going. Pretty scary gaining height with hard moves before the first good gear. After that the climbing felt sustained thin 5b.
Chrismo - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/09 with Tony

fell off below the overlap in 93,so unfinished business finally dealt with.
frost - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/09 with D Almond

great weather made all the more fun under chemo my third stevie haston route and all excellant.
dave almond - 2nd - 07/Sep/09 with Simon Frost

simonp - Lead O/S - Sep/09 with Annelies Sarrazyn

smallerrich - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/09 with Mikey

mickyg10 - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/09 with Rich Cannell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 05/Aug/09

Excellent. 1st clean E3 lead of the year :)
madmats - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/09 with PeakDJ

ingo - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/09 with Peter

north country boy - 2nd β - 27/Jul/09 with Tom Mills

my first lead on slate. nearly fluffed the start but had alot of fun the rest of the way!
Dave Searle - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/09 with tony

orb - 2nd - 23/Jul/09 with Luke Brookes

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jul/09

mr mills - Lead rpt - 10/Jul/09 with Gerwyn

cratered from 6 metres, but got straight back on. Fell off again at about 12 metre but then carried on up and completed the route. Fantastic route and will go back and do it in better style next time.
mlmatt - Lead - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jun/09

Fabulous route. Fully in the zone, each moved felt brilliant. 'Scary' start a bit over hyped I thought.
richardr - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/09

Between showers. Slippy when wet!
Cassidy - Lead β - 07/Jun/09 with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will

Dr Fran (Vagabond MC) - Lead O/S - 25/May/09 with gary smith

OrangeJ - 23/May/09 with pete

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/May/09

Hidden - Lead - 20/May/09

Fell trying move foot up into the big pocket just below the overlap
JLS - Lead dnf - 07/May/09 with Jacqui

r_parnham - 2nd - 20/Apr/09 with Matt

mattyork2 - Lead rpt - 20/Apr/09 with Adrian and Rachel from Ogwen

petejh - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/09 with Corinna

Surfed the slate below the overlap... Got the move all wrong.
douglas - Lead dog - 13/Apr/09 with Dave

great climb to second going to get it on the lead next time there. Good work Joe
mzchambers - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/09 with Joe

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/09

mr mills - Lead - 07/Apr/09 with edwin

Great end to a fantastic bday weekend, safe and interesting climbing throughout, a total classic!
msoldn - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Oli

barni - 2nd rpt - 03/Apr/09 with Glyn

Glyn - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/09 with Sally

Hidden - Lead - 29/Mar/09

1st proper E3 lead.
georgenorth - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/09 with Annette

It rained 15 minutes before. I love slate, the sun was even out for the climb!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Sam


luketheape - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/09 with Jon Stokes

samrad - Lead O/S - Feb/09 with rich

Jez d - 2nd - 2009

Hidden - 2009

Jack Symmons - Lead - Nov/08 with Chris T

Couple of hard moves at the start then just sustained 5b for the rest. A truely great pitch
Jim Walton - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with Mike Owen

Hidden - Lead β - 27/Sep/08

benchwarmer - 2nd - 18/Sep/08 with Callum Musket

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/08

barni - 2nd - 10/Sep/08 with Oli

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/08

mr mills - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/08 with paul simkiss

Funny really, spent 2 days learning to climb slate, preparing for this. This is the least slate like, slate route i've climbed, big jugs, not thin, not run out, bomber gear, reasonable foot holds, no real scary rockovers, felt rather soft for E3?! Awesome line though, really good fun!
Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/08

ewen - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/08 with cat

Polished low down
willson - 2nd - 17/Aug/08 with ben

Wahey! What an amazing route! So Pleased I did it! My first E3
hetaher - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/08 with Jonny

worthy of its status and, despite comments on here, not really polished. psychological crux low down but straightforward; ignore comments about friend 1.5 etc - theres a superb nut placement at exactly the same point (still nice to have the friend though). stepping right to gain continuation crack is technical crux. felt bold above overlap but is steady with good gear available.
ksjs - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/08 with jo

danwaters - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08

attempted onsight, fell at half height then again 2m below the overlap. as polished as hell but an excellent route. Did not dissapoint.
anthonyecc - Lead dog - 15/Jul/08

Hidden - Lead - 13/Jul/08

Nice. Thought the overlap would be the crux but was fairly easy and protected. Moves at the start and by the zig-zag were the trickiest. A life long ambition fulfilled!
tim evans - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Sam Roberts

samwisethebrave2 - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with tim evans and jon walker

Hidden - Lead dnf - 13/Jul/08

Felt soft for E3, run-out but excellent gear all the way and the holds were just too good.
dodfoster - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/08 with dan jones

Quite bold at the bottom. Nothing too hard above. Hardest move felt like the move up to the roof. Overlap and above are pretty easy. Great route.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/08 with Pippa Froggatt

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/08

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/08 with Helen Alderson

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with james

Awesome. Dropping my small wires at 8m wasn't a good move.
Stig - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08 with Greg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Sgt. Vest - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/08 with Rich bennet

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with xav

liam - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/08 with Probes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

Bit upset to second this, but i don't really like Slate, so i thought it was pushing it to try and lead on my 3rd day on the stuff. Franco adapted very quickly, but i was glad i did it clean rather than possibly dogging up on lead. Nice Route.
Dave Warburton - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Franco Cookson

awesome line, awesome experience. set off in the rain, had difficulty swapping cracks, but finally managed it. easy climbing to the roof left only the pull and 'easy' slab above. just as I was thinking of how i could get out of the powerful pull over the roof, the sun came out. Spurred on I climbed over the roof with relative ease, only to be greeted by the slab. only 5a/b climbing,but run out, Dave looked on as I swore loudly about the guide book writer. It was finally done and I was happy i could say I had led a proper E3. :-)
Franco Cookson - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with David Warburton

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 24/May/08 with Alan Royle

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/May/08

steveE9 - Lead O/S - 03/May/08 with drew and pete

E3? f6b+
idc - Lead O/S - May/08 with Abi

butterworthtom - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/08

david morse - 2nd - 16/Feb/08 with ben freeman

bfreeman - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/08 with Dave Morse

Matt Vigg - 2008

Suzie Wilson - Lead O/S - 2008 with jack

dparkes - 2008

best slate route ever if im allowed to say so! more like a sustained E1 though although many might disagree
hans solo - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Orlov - Solo - 2008 with dave

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/07

datoon - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/07 with Richard Toon

Wow! Committing moves to get the first gear, tricky moves over the overlap then a run-out to the top. The number one route on my wishlist and it didn't disappoint. My calves and feet were in agony by the time I topped out though!
climbingpixie - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with SecretSquirrel

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07

My favourite climb. I've been dearming about this route ever since I started climbing.
hun - Lead O/S - Oct/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07


chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/07 with James

dpbdpb - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Simon Wren

Quality route jibbing a bit on it didnt climb it very well but top quality route!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/07 with Thomas Martin

What a route! Great moves, nice and scary start. Bomber gear. Technical, aesthetic line, dries quickly, viewable from Llanberris. Just a total 5* classic!
Oliver Sherman - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/07 with Ian Frith

Jus - Lead O/S - Sep/07

Fantastic climb....great lead from Gareth.
Morgan Woods - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with Gareth

ingo - Lead dog - 12/Aug/07 with Peter

Adam Booth - Lead dog - 30/Jul/07 with Ed Booth

Stuart Johnston - Lead dnf - 20/May/07 with g taylor

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/07 with Ruth

feilx - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/07 with Floris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

BrianR - 2nd - 2007 with Phil Leng

climber sim - 2007

Hidden - Lead dog - 2007

not sure if this was this year or last? thought i had entered it already, Bring on the slate!
tonanf - Lead O/S - 2007 with burt

barni - Lead rpt - 2007 with Lou

eddiejames_uk@yahoo.co.uk - 2007 with Jon Shields

Only just dry enough, topped out in the dark- absolutely splendid!
alaan - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/06 with Matt

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Oct/06

climbed to the first pro at 20 foot, placed, down climbed to ground, climbed to top. Cool climb. Finger tips in places.
tonanf - Lead - 06/Oct/06 with burt

not sure about this on sight thing? climbed up, climbed down, climbed up again, climbed down again, climbed all way to top?
tonanf - Lead O/S - Oct/06 with burt

a_radiohead_fan - Sep/06

hamerboy - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/06 with Ed Hamer

Ran the top out above an RP2 for a laugh and got to the top and realised it was further away than i thought, he he he
boothy - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/06 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/06

First route on slate. Ended up on this semi-by-accident but glad we did. quality.
Steve Ramsden - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/May/06

Precarious and polished start leads to a sustained middle section. The overlap is fairly straightforward and the upper slab easier. Gem of a pitch!
Junior - Lead O/S - 01/May/06 with Dad

Very Scary in the last 10 meters if you don't have micro wires!
grit-addict - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/06 with Melanie Clayton

Hidden - 2006

Ian McNeill - 2006

Bern - 2006

creag - 2006

centurion05 - 2006

Dringo - 2006

Rachael Barlow - 2nd - 2006 with Pete Robins

Good route, good setting
KRB - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/05 with Chris & Martin

Haggis - 2nd dog - 14/Aug/05 with Ian Butterworth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/05

Bella - 2nd O/S - 28/May/05 with Michael

Andy Campbell - 2nd O/S - May/05 with James

nicholas Barrowclough - Lead - 07/Jul/04 with Mark

Hidden - 2nd dnf - Jul/04

lukea - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/04 with Al

rapidrich - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/04 with Zoe

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2004

joe c ook - Jul/03

paul m hadley - 2003

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/02

Decked.
Jus - Lead dnf - 2002

Hidden - 2002

Brown - Lead - Aug/01

Marti999 - Lead - 2000

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Jun/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/99

loundsy - 1999

MjrTom - Lead O/S - Nov/98

DavidR - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/98 with John Marston

stuart100 - Lead O/S - 20/Mar/98 with Claire Graham

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1998

Paul Boardman - 2nd O/S - 1997 with Iain Boardman

Hidden - 2nd - 1997

Ched - Lead O/S - 1997 with Glanfor

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1997

I wasn't planning to do any climbing this evening, but a spur-of-the-moment idea by Dave had us racing to the quarry at dusk. Fell off once low down, onto in situ RP0 which Dave has now. Climbed with didgeridoo echoing around quarry. Finished as fireworks whizzed around quarry, in complete darkness. Then we went to a typical Llanberis party. Wild evening!
Jon Read - Lead - Aug/96 with Dave Hollingham

WB - Lead O/S - Aug/96 with Guy

One fall on the bottom hard move. Returned to ground and re-started
MarkDavies36 - Lead dog - May/96

rongor - 1995 with Paul Tucker

michael burrows - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/94 with lola gunn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

John Southworth - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/93

ste_d - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/93 with mik

Brilliant climbing, make sure your boots are comfy
ellie macpherson - 2nd - Sep/93 with Graeme Jarvis, Ian Holmes

tlr - Lead - 27/Jul/93 with Pom

nai - Lead - 21/Jul/93 with tlr

Thefly - Lead O/S - Jun/93

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/93

jamiev - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/93 with Adrian Berry

Tony Little - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/92 with Pete

Typical of the time. Manic drive up to North Wales and hit the slate about an hour before dusk.
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/92 with Simon Coles

Andy Fielding - 2nd - 18/May/92 with ML

channinga - 1992

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1991

duncanmartin - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/90 with Luke Bumsteer

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/90 with Pete T

Hidden - Lead β - 26/May/90

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/90

whispering nic - Lead - 14/Apr/90 with noj

whispering nic - Lead - Apr/90 with noj

ChrisJD - Lead dnf - 18/Mar/90 with Alex

lukea - Lead O/S - 1990 with Al

chrisdavies - Lead O/S - 1990

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - 2nd O/S - 1990 with Andy Hyslop

nice bit cold - Guildford UNI CC
phillhw - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/89

michael burrows - Lead - 27/Aug/89 with brian jones

davemhart - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/89

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/89

Ooh. Ah!!!
eroica64 - 2nd - 06/May/89 with Ray Hancock

Hidden - Lead - 14/Apr/89

Excellent route
steve taylor - Lead O/S - May/88 with Jim Waddington

steve taylor - Lead - May/88 with vic radvills

ChrisJD - 2nd - 20/Jun/87

Found overlap quite easy.
Sean Kelly - 2nd - Jun/87 with Frank Richards

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/87

Didn't know about using the nutkey as the first bit of gear so lead through the first crux until 20-25ft where I got my first gear in with relief. Sounds like the crack has widened since then. Rest went fine and have to say I loved nearly every second of it.
Guy - Lead O/S - 1987 with The old man

Hidden - 1987

Derek Toulalan - 1987

Hidden - Lead - 27/Jul/86

Simon Lee - Lead - Jul/86 with Charlie Stripp

Simon Lee - Lead dnf - 14/Jun/86 with Steve Etherington

Trevor Hodgson - Solo β - 1986

One of the most memorable days climbing of my life - onsights of Left Wall in the morning and the Dervish in the afternoon.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 29/May/85 with Bungalow Dave

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/85

A rare example of grade shift downwards - it was E5 in Pollitt's 1982 supplement, but we thought it was worth more like E4.
Mark Kemball - Lead - 15/Jun/84 with Willie Todd

Gezzer - Lead O/S - 1984 with Andy Towne

Mark Kemball - Lead dnf - 04/Jul/83 with Tom Jones


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
RFWilkie, drcorbasisgod, Hidden, Hidden, Caspar, Hidden, sam820, benota, BeccaSnowden, A Chorlton Climber, Kirriemuir, stemill, Dan Lane, Hidden, Hidden, Clucky, leon, pldarch, nic42, Hidden, Hidden, SC, Hidden, Tom_Harding, pottsworth, roddersm, SMc, tom russell, Hidden, Dark Mavis, obyrnechris, Bennykr, samwisethebrave2, Robin Nicholson, Hidden, Trefo, HIGHTOWER, klatremus, pete40, vanderz, Hidden, msparkes22, jl, Hidden, Ezy Ryder, Lagavulin, Tommy81, felixthelion, Mr. K, Tomprusk, SGD, mikekeswick, match, tom valentine, Hidden, Hidden, oliverthomp, Nick Saunders, Hidden, dja, andymoin, Hidden, rogersavery, Hidden, Hidden, Dax, Hidden, Tom Eagle, Mr Wild, Hidden, Hidden, French Erick, gareth uglow, Tommy G, C@rwyn, viking, saillord, Hidden, lukea, dycotiles, IanMulvany, @ndyM@rsh@ll, timo.t, tatz45, Facejam, dicky79, Jamie Light, SecretSquirrel, ChalkBall, maybe_si, beegsyboy, Will Hunt, Kyuzo, kitkat78, sgl0jd, Northen Vince, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, bsu20c, Owen W-G, samwelli, Marcus Buckley
Voting
Total votes cast 140
E40 of 480 of 48
Hard E30 of 480 of 48
E338 of 4838 of 48
Easy E38 of 488 of 48
E22 of 482 of 48
6a1 of 471 of 47
Hard 5c17 of 4717 of 47
5c25 of 4725 of 47
Easy 5c3 of 473 of 47
5b1 of 471 of 47
3 Stars44 of 4544 of 45
2 Stars1 of 451 of 45
1 Star0 of 450 of 45
0 Stars0 of 450 of 45
Bag of .....0 of 450 of 45
Please Login as a Registered User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 224 (0.9%)
Lead154 of 224 (68.8%)
Followed44 of 224 (19.6%)
Unknown24 of 224 (10.7%)

'Climbed'66 of 224 (29.5%)
clean O/S121 of 224 (54.0%)
clean β5 of 224 (2.2%)
clean rpt14 of 224 (6.3%)
dogged8 of 224 (3.6%)
dnf9 of 224 (4.0%)
Unknown1 of 224 (0.4%)