Rockfax Description
A stellar route, and one deserving of its reputation. Follow the crack-line up for 8m to the first good runner. Easier climbing leads to the dog-leg in the crack, passing this is the crux. Good holds lead up to the overlap, which is easier to pass than it looks. Above, the gear is small and the climbing run-out. A steady head leads to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The most famous route on slate? Well-chalked and visible from Pete's Eats, this stunning crackline takes the centre of the Dervish slab, passing an overlap at two thirds height. "It's alright man, we're experienced rock cats."

S Haston Feb/1981

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, Dinorwig Essentials, North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, North Wales E3's, a State of Slate, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Progression, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, Tick List for 2015/2016, AMC Uni Ticklist, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School.

Hidden 28/Oct 2nd rpt
masa-alpin 28/Oct Lead O/S

Decently protected even in the lower half. Some holds are polished unsurprisingly. Good route, nonetheless.

with Scott G
i_a_coops 15/Oct Lead O/S
with Charlie
charlietorrance 15/Oct 2nd O/S

such a good line and climbing but polished

Hidden 09/Oct 2nd rpt
kenneM 09/Oct 2nd O/S
JamesWilliams 28/Sep Lead rpt

FINALLY! as part of the east face of vivian

with bren
mhairi thorburn 19/Sep Lead O/S

Unbelievably good!

FlavioL1989 18/Sep Lead O/S
tsjx 06/Sep 2nd

Fell off crux move rightwards

with Ian
DavidR 05/Sep 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 29/Aug 2nd O/S
with Chris BCF
elliptic 29/Aug Lead
with Wendy M.
guy757 26/Aug -
Matt Cooke 15/Aug Lead O/S
with Nick Jones
Hidden 15/Aug Lead O/S
jsmcfarland 13/Aug Lead O/S

Interesting that the GroundUp slate guide says this is a 'soft' E3, wasn't anything at all soft about it in my mind! The start is very poorly protected and polished to hell, after that it is super well protected but still very polished and sustained. By the time I got to the nice rest at the roof after the crux I was a pumped mess and my feet were ready to fall off. What a fantastic route! ****

with Alan
Julie Carroll 30/Jul Lead O/S
with Chris Wallis
James Oakes 29/Jul Lead O/S
Fragmod 29/Jul Lead
Albert Exley 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Jon
UncleMephisto 22/Jul Lead dog

Made up to get this done, feels like a post surgery milestone. Came off a few times sorting feet to reach the good rest under the overlap, and had to take some deep breaths on the upper slab, but got there in the end.

with Rob Partridge
dicky79 19/Jul Lead O/S
with Mark Nicholson
Hidden 18/Jul 2nd
kenneM 02/Jul Lead O/S

Great route - really glad to get it clean. Lives up to expectations and then some.

with Chris
FreddieSmith 30/Jun Lead O/S
with Danny Grifths
BAdhoc 27/Jun Lead dnf

Fell from two moves beneath the gear at 8m. Didn't deck but almost. Thank goodness for brass RP's. I'll be back!

Tom Redmond 26/Jun Lead O/S

incredible route!! lived up to the hype, excellent moves and positions! bolder than i expected it to be past the overlap

with kelly campbell
Sam4242 25/Jun 2nd O/S
max_dickens 25/Jun Lead dnf
with Andrei
Stanners 19/Jun Lead O/S

Always wanted this since I first saw it on climbing films. Shocked at how magical the quarry is. After the first few moves it was only a matter of time before I was off..atleast thats what I thought! First proper route on slate and despite lack of wires on my rack and the midges majorly kicking in at 2/3 height I somehow got up it. Loved how much it challenged me but that run out at the top is a bit cheeky isn't it?! incredible route. Bit of a slag of a route none the less with the amount of chalk left on her. Trip Endex. Happy.

with Andy G
Hidden 18/Jun Lead dog
Tom McCabe 13/Jun Lead O/S

Brilliant! Nearly threw myself backwards off the start trying to wiggle some tiny wires, downclimbed for a breather then straight up (placed 16 runners). Feels like half Llanberis is watching you!

with Rob Law
Suzana 10/Jun Lead β

Essential "safety" Beta from Robert as this was my first E3 before any E2.

with Robert Partridge
98%monkey 06/Jun 2nd O/S

started raining when I got on

with Al Dibben
Dibdawg 06/Jun Lead dog

The last and and most polished of all the 5c routes today.

with Phil Mitchel
Hidden 06/Jun Lead O/S
ASchwirtz 28/May Lead O/S
petegunn 26/May Lead

A gorgeous sunny evening, a grand finish to a good few days in Wales : )

Tom Seccombe 26/May Lead O/S

with Iain
Hidden 26/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/May Lead O/S
Clama 24/May 2nd
with Charlie
theotherpetehill 23/May Lead O/S
with Georgina Brooke
adam 24 23/May Lead O/S

Very pleased to finally do this one. Clean onsight with no big fuss :-) Great climbing and a great line

with Caroline
Hidden 23/May 2nd rpt
Dizz 17/May Lead

Drat - slipped off on the polish! First go at leading E3 so not too sad as found the actual climbing much easier than when I seconded it clean years ago :)

with peri
pebbles 17/May 2nd

have rarely enjoyed following a lead so much! awesome route.

with Liz
james1978 17/May Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 16/May -
morganator 16/May 2nd rpt
with International Meet Guest
James Beaumont 13/May Lead dnf

backed off from starting jug, heat made the polish even worse

Hannes B 12/May Lead O/S
with Aidan
Hidden 12/May 2nd
Hidden 12/May 2nd
robpartridge 12/May Lead rpt
with Harry Wickham
wi11 09/May Lead O/S

Shame about the start! Really good route, amazing line, good moves and varied climbing. 3 star only bad comments would be about the start so do it before it gets worse!

with Sabby
James Beaumont 04/May 2nd O/S

seconded hungover with 2 hours sleep, will be back to lead, probably this week

quiffhanger 04/May Lead O/S

Spicy start then v enjoyable. First ever route on slate.

with Rachel
ashtond6 19/Apr Lead O/S

mega mega mega, the line of north wales?

Hidden 16/Apr Lead dog
Glyn 09/Apr Lead rpt
with Amy
Amy UT 09/Apr 2nd O/S
with Glyn
climberchristy 07/Apr Lead G/U

What a route! Simply superb throughout. Well sustained. Blew onsight with a slip off a glassy foothold with my feet only 4ft off the floor! Held by microwire. Then pulled rope and completed route with no further falls so as near as dammit to onsight. Start feels very bold to good cam at 8m. There are microwires and offsets to be placed below this butnone too inspiring. Rest of route eats small gear by the shedload. Used 13 quickdraws on it.

with Ben Cole
Dan Vaj 24/Mar 2nd
with James Machaffie
PaddyN 17/Mar Lead β

90 minutes on the route, new record!

mcgovern 15/Mar Lead
with Neil
ned_85 15/Feb Lead dog
Senna 15/Feb Lead O/S
with Ned
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
harry_lewis 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
soph 29/Nov/14 Lead rpt
MichaelGallimore 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S

I read a load of guidebook descriptions saying committing lower section, so I took a ton of small wires which I'd hoped would protect this. I found the bottom section committing.

with Jared Kitchen, Andrew Erskine
robertmctague 04/Oct/14 Lead β

flash, saw Theo on it first.

theomoore 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
papashango 29/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Glynn
Colin Scotchford 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead rpt
morganator 27/Sep/14 2nd
with John Roberts
scott quinn 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S

just awesome 5c moves with good rests best gear I've ever seen / had to wrestle out.

Tom.Priestley 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Cool route, loads of gear apart from the start. The offset 1 might have held.......

Hidden 22/Sep/14 Lead
Wayne S 15/Sep/14 2nd O/S
James S 15/Sep/14 Lead dog

Got really spooked on this. A couple of silly slips at the start totally shook my confidence and wasn't able to compose myself for the rest of the route. Ended up messing up an easy move in the middle and falling right by gear, very unhappy with my performance and would like to come back to do it again in better style!

with tom p, jack g
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 07/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
kyaizawa 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Big lead finally got around to doing it! Took 18 draws and ran out before the top... Awesome route, with great moves and good gear - definitely worth the hype!!

Emma Reynolds 20/Aug/14 2nd RP

Awesome route. Shoes literally just slipped off about 10m up, started route again and got 2nd time. Giant slug in crux holds made it a bit harder...a lot easier after the overhang.

Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Don't like e3s 09/Aug/14 2nd
Tim Hamlet 28/Jul/14 Lead
redjerry 28/Jul/14 Lead
with Ed Morris
duncandarnell 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
James Oswald 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Not such a fun start. After this the climbing is great, sustained and technical with perfect gear. Sore on the toes. Excellent, fairly soft for e3

Nick Russell 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Sustained and very good, with some great technical moves. After a pokey start takes lots of gear.

with Pablo
climbingrev 25/Jun/14 2nd O/S

WOW! Keeps on coming , but moves all work. 1st gear teally high, them commitment and perseverance prevail!

poeter210 25/Jun/14 2nd dog
mr mills 21/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mel Roberts
Ewano 14/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Went up to the crux but was psyched out after ending up on a bold E4 earlier and having to back off. Way way too hot, down climbed. Will come back with better conditions and more psyche.

ASchwirtz 26/May/14 Lead dnf

Just a pro show - felt really tired this week. Need too come back. Gave up and rested after first good piece of gear at 8 meters. The rested again and decided to back off just under the rightward swerve.

Rachel Slater 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Soft and great :)

with Alistair, James Moneypenny
Alistair Corbett 15/May/14 Lead O/S

Found the start hard and got gripped at the top. Classic route then ticked nicky's leap... Spend the rest of the trip injured!

with rachael, penny
Luxulyan 13/May/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
greenclimb 04/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
John Gale 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/14 -
spidermonkey09 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Amazing. Definitely very much harder than Pull My Daisy and not soft touch either with the polish! Not in the bag til you hit the final jugs. So psyched!

bede.west 29/Mar/14 2nd O/S

seconded then led.

bede.west 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

led after seconding

DavidPC 09/Mar/14 2nd

Easy 2nd. Bomber gear all the way and climbing was not too hard, rests after every hard move. Both thought it felt soft.

TommyMcG ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Excellent route, but super super safe. Didnt think it was near E3.

HAJ Francis ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Mikewilson119 ??/2014 Lead
with james taylor
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 -
Andy Peak 1 24/Nov/13 2nd

just as much fun on second

with Dan bates
Dan Bates 24/Nov/13 -
funsized 23/Nov/13 Lead dnf

trying to finish off 'East face of the vivian' but ran out of light. Downclimbed it, will be back - looks awesome.

with Fi
Yong_Welsh 13/Nov/13 Lead O/S
ChrisAllen ?/Nov/13 -
JamesWilliams 08/Oct/13 Lead dog

Came off on a polished hold just before the foot ledge I have never shouted motherf**ker so hard in my life! so psyched to get on E3 tho :D

tim exley 27/Sep/13 Lead dog

fell off the start, glad i did bother putting n rp in

Stefan_Morris 19/Sep/13 2nd rpt
AndrewJamesCherry 19/Sep/13 Lead RP

Like a bloody yoyo.

Pieterjan De Roo 19/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mr mills 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Roger
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd
pie_eater_pete 06/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with bwestwood
Paul Collins 04/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/13 TR
steveboote 04/Sep/13 Lead

With 'hidden'

Chriswallis2 03/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with Anna
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd
BenNorman 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Calf pump!! slightly bold at the start but gear still comes, great fun top section.

brices 31/Aug/13 Lead β

Never to hard but never to easy. major calf pump glad to get on this today

Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
sparkass 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Deserves all the hype, every move is good. Managed to get a lovely 00 nut before the good gear at 8m which helped no end.

with Rob Lovatt
Ginger McGrath 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

brilliant scarier than i expected!

with rob, pete abernethy
Phil Blue 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First E3 on same day as first E2; both onsighted. So much psyche for slate :D

Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
alicee 16/Aug/13 2nd
with Niels Ernst-Williams, Daniel Whitlum
Chris Reid 14/Aug/13 Lead
with Andy murray
tgeh 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S


with dan geh
Dan Geh 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Slate perfection! Elegant moves all the way. Laced it with gear :)

Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
nigel pearson 03/Aug/13 Lead dog

One fall at last hard move before overlap. Pulled up to previous highpoint and climbed through. Sustained with little rest for your calves.

with Robin
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead
pete87abs ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Graham, rob
Didymus 25/Jul/13 Lead RP

Took a whipper and got inverted when foot popped after dogleg right - probably a bit hot in full sun. Got it next go later in evening when cooler. Rope burn on left calf as memento.

with Dan
danp 25/Jul/13 Lead β

must have climbed up and down the first bit 3 times till I committed above the micro's. climbed after jons first fall with his top wire still in. great to finally get on it after standing underneath it ready to go and getting rained off 2 years ago.

Dr Toph 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Finally came back to this after about 10 years. Dogged it to shit back then, this time much more fun now that I can climb cracks!

with Emily
Velo Orange 16/Jul/13 2nd

beautiful line and slab!

with Toph
Mattlamb90 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S

First E3, absolutely mint!

with Luke
duncandarnell 05/Jul/13 Lead rpt
rustaldo 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Really good. No single hard move, just long and a little run out after the overlap.

with Dan Heath
Derek Ryden 03/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Geoff Bennett
Ramon Marin 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Steady at E3, lots of bomber gear and just a couple hardish moves. Every piece of gear is pretty much as good as a bolt, pit 18 runners and run out of draws. Mega classic, go do it!

with Tom le fanu
Mike W 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
HarryB 17/Jun/13 2nd dog
with Ross
Hidden 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Sardien 15/Jun/13 2nd rpt
UnkArl 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lisa, Rik, Debbie
Debs 07/Jun/13 2nd
with Karl
air 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

awesome sunny ascent! bit too polished to fully enjoy..

with Lloyd
Lloyders 06/Jun/13 Lead β

On Air's gear

with Air
andyinglis 22/May/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 20/May/13 Lead O/S
mr mills 17/May/13 Lead rpt
with edwin
Sardien 06/May/13 2nd rpt
with Rich Gentry, Owen
Hidden 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Misha 05/May/13 Lead

Felt harder than two years ago! I'll put that down to early season weakness - second trad lead do the year. Generally fine but got a bit stuck just below the overlap, trying to get stood up on two good flatties - couldn't figure out the moves! Had to climb back down a little for a rest. Straightforward 5b move once I realised what to do. Great route even second time round.

with Mark
BigTone 05/May/13 2nd dog


Hidden ?/May/13 2nd dog
bwestwood ?/May/13 Lead
Dan724 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
BenRyle 29/Apr/13 2nd dog

Careless seconding

with Dan
Jillybean 18/Apr/13 2nd
with Brad
JCAshman 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 10/Apr/13 Lead

If it hadn't rained this wold of gon clean slate really has no friction in the wet! The start is safe ish with small brass wires:-) fiddley to place well

with Will
swoe 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Paul Collins 18/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Jono
ianstevens 15/Feb/13 Lead dnf
esther ?/Feb/13 Lead
dwillis ??/2013 Lead rpt
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
richiebongo ??/2013 Lead O/S

Climbed this with Malcolm Boater in the 90's and also sometime later.

Sam Melville ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 18/Dec/12 Lead rpt

At night with head torches. Amazing. The first 8m felt much more scary than before. Footholds were hard to see.

with Nathan Ling
nathan.ling 18/Dec/12 2nd dog
with Dan Heath
jezb1 18/Nov/12 Lead

Stoked to have done this. Much more sustained than pull my daisy and very polished in places. Loads of gear after the cheeky start. Great route slightly detracted from by the polish. Climbed up and down the start a few times and an unfortunate fall higher up when a foot popped.

shed_hed 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Excellent and sustained climbing. My first E3. topped out in the sunset! Brilliant end to the day!

with Ryan Gibson
Gambit 07/Oct/12 Lead RP

At last, what a satisfying route and the 500th record of an ascent on UKC!

with Barney
williamsd79 27/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Phoebe
Dizz 23/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Ian l
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead rpt
ianjfsutcliffe 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Peak E2.

with George
georgedunton 17/Sep/12 2nd dog
pembrokeshirecaver 11/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Good micro wires up to the 'first gear' so not really that bold in my view. Polished though. First E3 lead.

Jen 'Banksy' Banks 09/Sep/12 TR O/S
with Stefan
Stefan_Morris 07/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/12 -
Ewan Russell 31/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Alec
Adam Booth 31/Aug/12 Lead rpt

Ace. Tried this as my first E3 a few years ago and fell off. Felt easy this time. Great route.

with Calum Musket
APRS 31/Aug/12 2nd
Dibdawg 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
barni 08/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Ami
Dean177 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd dog
mux 22/Jul/12 2nd

Over rated - do Tango instead its much ...MUCH better

with Dave Almond
Dave Almond 22/Jul/12 Lead

Not as much fun this time. Could have been my very sore toes or crap new boots. Pleased to have done it clean but not in the same bracket as centrefold

Compo 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

So long coming. Turn the brain off and go for the first good gear.

with Kev Faux
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
williamsd79 14/Jul/12 Lead dog

One fall just before the overlap due to a left foot slip. Was fairly tired setting off up this route so fairly happy to get up my first E3 regardless of the fall. Will get it clean next time for sure

centurion05 14/Jul/12 2nd
with dyl
SamuelHarris 12/Jul/12 Lead dog
dswansonlow 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Sam Harris
jamestaylor92 07/Jul/12 Lead O/S
paultaylor 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead
Jillybean 19/Jun/12 2nd

Awesome route :)

with George
Alex.M-M. 12/Jun/12 Lead O/S
jossjones 12/Jun/12 Lead dog
Hidden 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 10/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/12 2nd O/S
a13x 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Wanted to do it for so long. Can finally sleep in peace...

with Chris Higton
The Mountain Goat 06/May/12 2nd dog

Two falls on lower slab.

Somerset swede basher 06/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
gw3285 05/May/12 Lead
Sardien 02/May/12 Lead

Dropped my set of nuts just before the step out right, so had to lower down and do it again, then fell off just before the overlap! Bit gutted by that but finished it clean after. Such an awesome amazing climb! Eats lots of microwires

with Matthew Jaques
MarkRoe 01/May/12 Lead β


owain86 29/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Chris
chrisicles 05/Apr/12 2nd
BenRyle 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Michael Allday 18/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Bruce Houston ?/Mar/12 Lead
matt perks ??/2012 -
guy757 ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
Narked4fun ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
cballard ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 Lead O/S

Mark put me up to it , I did it ok but struggled lead it again several years later (at a time when I was climbing well)

with Mark Danson
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Nick Sillem ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
rob 528 ??/2012 Lead O/S
MarcusP 05/Nov/11 Lead dog

After dark, by headtorch with the Llanberis fireworks going off in the background! Blew some moves and fell a few times, but amazing route, can't wait to come back and try and get it clean.

with Martin, Jonnie
Hidden 05/Nov/11 Lead
Michael Allday 03/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with John beecham
Hidden ?/Oct/11 Lead
Drew M 23/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
lx 24/Aug/11 Lead

greased off about 3m up, fortunately there is actually a good wire just before, lowered off then onsighted, (so technically not onsight). Reckon a bit overated, kinda the same moves all the way to the top

with alison
Hidden 23/Aug/11 2nd rpt
belay bunny turned bad 23/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with annabelle, loundsy
gaz.marshall 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Viv
roberto18 13/Aug/11 Lead

Great route, harder than I expected, definitely worth 3 stars

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Misha 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Tom
dav 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

definitely lived up to expectations, haston is a legend.

with Gill B
olly_davey 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead
AlistairB 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Lisa
Daniel Heath 07/Jul/11 Lead β

Had the thrill of doing this at the last minute on the last day of the trip. Spent 50 minutes on the route and topped out soon before dark. Amazing experience throughout. Many thanks to Rich Clarke for driving me there and holding the ropes. One of the best routes.

with Richard Clarke
bigdrew 07/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Down climbed from just below the jug with the first gear in. Will either fiddle gear in next time or man up..

gd303uk 28/Jun/11 Lead O/S

very pleased to have got this, hard to claim a true insight having looked at every picture since this route was first climbed, I wanted to do this route so much. I didn't notice a crux, ther are some smoothish footholds, and the beginning is great, some small RP's protect this quite well, in fact small pro all the way was ample. getting past the overlap was easier than Tango. And once over the overlap rejoice, there isn't much gear and on a hot day those flat triangle impressions feel very slippy, but there is some nice moves and a run out. I loved this route.

with John Rogers
khawk 25/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with DT
Hidden 24/Jun/11 Lead
Liam FLeming 15/Jun/11 -
with mat hawkins
stevebarratt 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Rob Sandercock
Hidden 05/Jun/11 2nd
markalmack 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dangerous Dave 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Wild Beast
rob.s22 ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S


vertically_challenged 31/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/May/11 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 2nd
Hidden 18/May/11 2nd
Noodles 18/May/11 -

Polished as hell and thin as, needless to say I shit my pants.

Glyn 12/May/11 2nd O/S
with Perttu Ollile, Luke
laurelfan 12/May/11 Lead RP

another climber placed the first good cam after I fell of and hit the boulder mat on my first try...

Jonas Paulsson 10/May/11 Lead O/S

Great route. Hard on your feet.

with Duncan Tunstall
mr mills 07/May/11 Lead rpt
with Gareth
Luke Brooks 06/May/11 2nd
with Konrad Doyle
Rory Shaw 03/May/11 Lead rpt

2 rps in before first good slot. Pretty confident they would hold a small slide.

Kevster 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 15/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with nic
mynyddresident 15/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with wolf
Jack00 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Anna
jimshrimp 25/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 21/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S

i think it would be e2 and a better climb if not for the polished ankle breaking start

with jason
jade Edwards Leaney ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
with vaughan
centurion05 26/Feb/11 Lead β
with dave g
Hidden 19/Feb/11 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
adie84 ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
ColinD ??/2011 2nd O/S
Si ??/2011 -
Gareth H ??/2011 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/2011 -
Dave Parton ??/2011 -
ben360 ??/2011 2nd
pasbury ??/2011 -
stargazer85 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Lone Rider ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
C Mclean ??/2011 Lead O/S
spacey 31/Oct/10 Lead β
with Tom
benchwarmer 27/Oct/10 Lead rpt
owain86 12/Oct/10 Lead dnf
with Chris
Cragrat Rich 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S

I'm speechless for this one. Emotional at the top, 6 years of dreaming and wondering, a solid year of preparation! Huge milestone and highpoint of my climbing career. Some of the bits i'd heard were hard went dead easy (start & overlap), probably found hardest bit the dogleg and move from first gear slot. Totally totally classic and engrossing throughout though. I'm this pleased :)))))

Hidden 12/Oct/10 Solo O/S
simon kimber 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
MikeLeeds 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Oh my feet!

clive-greenwood 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing. For me correct at top end e2 5c.

mynyddresident 07/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Way more polished than 4 years ago. Classic line.

with ben
al99 07/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Awesome. Fairly sustained and pretty tasty at the bottom before the first cam. Only one foothold seemed overly polished, the rest seemed OK.

with Andrew Bitmead
Liam FLeming 04/Oct/10 2nd rpt

barni was a hereo

with barni
barni 04/Oct/10 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
sam820 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Matt Roper, Terry
Ed morris 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

After going up a wet tryfan. Finished as the sun set. lived up to my expectations and more.

with james
Jams Crwca 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gforce 18/Aug/10 Lead
with Kath
erinbastian 15/Aug/10 2nd
with jacob phillips
John Kettle 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
lauren2009 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Sandy Simpson 10/Aug/10 -
with Ross Hewitt
deaddogsdie ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Piss. No more polished than any other classic slate line. Awesome.

Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead dog
adam06 16/Jul/10 2nd
Alexandre Buisse 16/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Jen Crook 11/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead
scorky345 02/Jul/10 Lead
tim20 02/Jul/10 2nd
JayAr ?/Jul/10 Lead
with Marija
Dale ?/Jul/10 Lead dog

this is such a iconic route. Its bin climbed to much and I felt it was slippy. fell off the start not to hy off the gound, still a good thud though, and fell half way up due to my foot slipping both times did'nt even find it hard just steady. A brilliant line and route though think it loses one of its stars now due to it bing over climbed

with johny
Gazleah ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

brilliant :)

with adam radcliff
Derek Ryden ?/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Ofir (Drimer)
Ed Babs 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Harry
Bristoldave 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with pete
Hidden 09/Jun/10 2nd
Dunx 06/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Joe M
joeym 06/Jun/10 2nd dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks 01/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Good route. Once you get going there is heaps of gear.

with Rich
London Luke ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S

hard !

schof ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd O/S
Sam W 30/May/10 Lead
with Martin Lane, Carl Reilly
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
willoates 24/May/10 Lead O/S

AMAZING!!!!! perfect way to finish an awesome weekend! :) so happy :)

with Steve
lukehodson 13/May/10 Lead O/S

Over the moon. First e3, felt pretty steady.

Bennykr 07/May/10 Lead O/S

Epic, best route ive done on slate!! :D

with Bubbles
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Tim Guilliams
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Rowansb 01/May/10 Lead O/S

great climb

with sean
akhughes ?/May/10 Lead O/S

Pretty low in the grade, probably only E2 and easy 5c. Fantastic route though.

JeromeT ?/May/10 Lead O/S
going going gone ?/May/10 Lead β

both routes where awesome.

daniel hobbs ?/May/10 Lead O/S

great day.

Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Ken Applegate 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Felt much stiffer than Last Tango in Paris. Good gear, after the initial 8m!

oliverthomp 13/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Luke Jones
KKilroy ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S


with O Hara
harvie 26/Mar/10 Lead O/S
farmus21 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Nice, sustained, precarious.

with Eugene Theron
Hidden 03/Mar/10 Lead O/S
SAF 22/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Speeddemonsi ??/2010 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 11/Dec/09 Lead O/S

cool, first E3! and onsight too! pretty hard up to the overlap then a bit dodge on the flakes! foot hold broke within a meter of topping out but lukily i stayed on! topped out as the sun set so lush view with orange clouds, not a good as pull my daisy, but a classic nevertheless.

Hidden 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S
metal arms 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Tom Last 18/Sep/09 Lead β

Wow! Still can't believe I actually climbed this. I wouldn't bother with the nut key, it's pretty hard to find where it goes (I couldn't) and you just get pumped out when you'd be better climbing the thing. Not too cruxy, pretty sustained and worth the hype. First proper E3. Get on it before the bottom becomes even more polished! Flashed.

with Marshy
TimPerkin 14/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Dave Gale
DavidR 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant, brilliant route! It's been on my wish list for years and years. Fantastic feeling to finally get on it and up it clean! (I actually had a very brief go at this a very long time ago (1998), when I wasn't climbing anywhere near the grade. Didn't even get to the first slot back then, before bailing, so I reckon my ascent today is effectively on-sight (apart from the first 2m!)).

Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead β
frost 07/Sep/09 Lead rpt

fell off below the overlap in 93,so unfinished business finally dealt with.

with D Almond
Dave Almond 07/Sep/09 2nd

great weather made all the more fun under chemo my third stevie haston route.

simonp ?/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Annelies Sarrazyn
smallerrich 22/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Mikey
Mike Goldthorp 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
mikeyjbs 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/09 Lead O/S
ingo 27/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Peter
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd β
Dave Searle 23/Jul/09 Lead O/S

my first lead on slate. nearly fluffed the start but had alot of fun the rest of the way!

with tony
orb 23/Jul/09 2nd
with Luke Brookes
Rob Pitt 20/Jul/09 2nd
with Owen Davies
mr mills 10/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Gerwyn
AdrianP 06/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Riikka
mlmatt 27/Jun/09 Lead

cratered from 6 metres, but got straight back on. Fell off again at about 12 metre but then carried on up and completed the route. Fantastic route and will go back and do it in better style next time.

Hidden 17/Jun/09 2nd rpt
Oli 17/Jun/09 Lead O/S
richardr 15/Jun/09 Lead O/S

Fabulous route. Fully in the zone, each moved felt brilliant. 'Scary' start a bit over hyped I thought.

Cassidy 07/Jun/09 Lead β

Between showers. Slippy when wet!

with Robin, Jules, Graham, Will
sgl0jd ?/Jun/09 -
billb ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/09 Lead
JLS 07/May/09 Lead dnf

Fell trying move foot up into the big pocket just below the overlap

with Jacqui
beci tointen ?/May/09 Lead O/S
with Jamie Kean
RachelP 20/Apr/09 2nd
with Matt
mattyork2 20/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Adrian and Rachel from Ogwen
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead dog
mzchambers 12/Apr/09 2nd dog

great climb to second going to get it on the lead next time there. Good work Joe

with Joe
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
mr mills 07/Apr/09 Lead
with edwin
msoldn 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great end to a fantastic bday weekend, safe and interesting climbing throughout, a total classic!

with Oli
barni 03/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Glyn
Glyn 03/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Sally
Peter Reynolds ?/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/09 Lead
GPN 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

1st proper E3 lead.

with Annette
smallerrich 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S

It rained 15 minutes before. I love slate, the sun was even out for the climb!

with Sam
RossG ?/Mar/09 -
lukehunt 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S

with Jon Stokes
samrad ?/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with rich
Hidden ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Audrey @ The Castle ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 -
Jack Symmons ?/Nov/08 Lead
with Chris T
Hidden 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead β
benchwarmer 18/Sep/08 2nd
with Calum Musket
Hidden 11/Sep/08 Lead O/S
barni 10/Sep/08 2nd
with Oli
Hidden 29/Aug/08 2nd rpt
PenJD 29/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Loved every move.

mr mills 28/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with paul simkiss
Matt Bennett 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Funny really, spent 2 days learning to climb slate, preparing for this. This is the least slate like, slate route i've climbed, big jugs, not thin, not run out, bomber gear, reasonable foot holds, no real scary rockovers, felt rather soft for E3?! Awesome line though, really good fun!

ewen 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with cat
willson 17/Aug/08 2nd

Polished low down

with ben
HeatherF 14/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Wahey! What an amazing route! So Pleased I did it! My first E3

with Jonny
ksjs 22/Jul/08 Lead O/S

worthy of its status and, despite comments on here, not really polished. psychological crux low down but straightforward; ignore comments about friend 1.5 etc - theres a superb nut placement at exactly the same point (still nice to have the friend though). stepping right to gain continuation crack is technical crux. felt bold above overlap but is steady with good gear available.

with jo
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
dan gibson 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
samwisethebrave2 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with tim evans and jon walker
Oli 13/Jul/08 Lead dnf

Backed off one move before first gear. Need to get back on it.

with Lee
Hidden 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
dodfoster 05/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Felt soft for E3, run-out but excellent gear all the way and the holds were just too good.

chris sm 01/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Quite bold at the bottom. Nothing too hard above. Hardest move felt like the move up to the roof. Overlap and above are pretty easy. Great route.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Tim Steward 20/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Helen Alderson
gregoritos 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with james
Stig 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Awesome. Dropping my small wires at 8m wasn't a good move.

with Greg
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
hervenuttall 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with xav
Hidden 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Dave Warburton 27/May/08 2nd O/S

Bit upset to second this, but i don't really like Slate, so i thought it was pushing it to try and lead on my 3rd day on the stuff. Franco adapted very quickly, but i was glad i did it clean rather than possibly dogging up on lead. Nice Route.

Franco Cookson OLD 27/May/08 Lead O/S

awesome line, awesome experience. set off in the rain, had difficulty swapping cracks, but finally managed it. easy climbing to the roof left only the pull and 'easy' slab above. just as I was thinking of how i could get out of the powerful pull over the roof, the sun came out. Spurred on I climbed over the roof with relative ease, only to be greeted by the slab. only 5a/b climbing,but run out, Dave looked on as I swore loudly about the guide book writer. It was finally done and I was happy i could say I had led a proper E3. :-)

mattyork2 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
ian caton ?/May/08 Lead O/S

E3? f6b+

with Abi
daniel hobbs ?/May/08 Lead O/S

Greaaaaaaat route!!

Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd
butterworthtom 21/Mar/08 2nd O/S
david morse 16/Feb/08 2nd
with ben freeman
bfreeman 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Suzie Wilson ??/2008 Lead O/S
with jack
dparkes ??/2008 -
hans solo ??/2008 Lead O/S

best slate route ever if im allowed to say so! more like a sustained E1 though although many might disagree

Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Orlov ??/2008 Solo
with dave
tuftynick ??/2008 -
tchallen99 ??/2008 Lead
Marcus ??/2008 -
C coldwell-storry 27/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Adam Gill
datoon 25/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Richard Toon
climbingpixie 21/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Wow! Committing moves to get the first gear, tricky moves over the overlap then a run-out to the top. The number one route on my wishlist and it didn't disappoint. My calves and feet were in agony by the time I topped out though!

with SecretSquirrel
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
hun ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

My favourite climb. I've been dearming about this route ever since I started climbing.

Hidden 29/Sep/07 Lead O/S
chrishedgehog 23/Sep/07 Lead O/S

with James
Dave Bond 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Alex Mason 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Quality route jibbing a bit on it didnt climb it very well but top quality route!

Oliver Sherman 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S

What a route! Great moves, nice and scary start. Bomber gear. Technical, aesthetic line, dries quickly, viewable from Llanberris. Just a total 5* classic!

with Ian Frith
Jus ?/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/07 Lead
Morgan Woods 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb....great lead from Gareth.

with Gareth
ingo 12/Aug/07 Lead dog
with Peter
Adam Booth 30/Jul/07 Lead dog
Ed Booth 30/Jul/07 2nd
Stuart Johnston 20/May/07 Lead dnf
Toby Dunn 27/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ruth
feilx 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Floris
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2007 2nd
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead dog
tonanf ??/2007 Lead O/S

not sure if this was this year or last? thought i had entered it already, Bring on the slate!

with burt
barni ??/2007 Lead rpt
with Lou
eddiejames_uk ??/2007 -
with Jon Shields
zero six ??/2007 Lead O/S
alaan 13/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Only just dry enough, topped out in the dark- absolutely splendid!

with Matt
Hidden 08/Oct/06 2nd
tonanf 06/Oct/06 Lead

climbed to the first pro at 20 foot, placed, down climbed to ground, climbed to top. Cool climb. Finger tips in places.

with burt
tonanf ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S

not sure about this on sight thing? climbed up, climbed down, climbed up again, climbed down again, climbed all way to top?

with burt
a_radiohead_fan ?/Sep/06 -
Hidden 15/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 10/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Ran the top out above an RP2 for a laugh and got to the top and realised it was further away than i thought, he he he

with Remus Knowles
Hidden 31/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Cowflinger ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with John Williams
Ram MkiV 31/May/06 Lead O/S

First route on slate. Ended up on this semi-by-accident but glad we did. quality.

with Alex
Hidden 09/May/06 Lead O/S
Owain Llewelyn 01/May/06 Lead O/S

Precarious and polished start leads to a sustained middle section. The overlap is fairly straightforward and the upper slab easier. Gem of a pitch!

with Dad
Luke Brooks 09/Feb/06 Lead O/S

Very Scary in the last 10 meters if you don't have micro wires!

Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Bern ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
centurion05 ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2006 -
Rachael Barlow ??/2006 2nd
with Pete Robins
Rik Dawes ??/2006 Lead O/S
jeffmcd56 ??/2006 Lead O/S
KRB 24/Aug/05 Lead O/S

Good route, good setting

with Chris & Martin
Hidden 14/Aug/05 2nd dog
Hidden 12/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Bella 28/May/05 2nd O/S
with Michael
Andy Campbell ?/May/05 2nd O/S
with James
Adam Lincoln ??/2005 Lead
shoulders ??/2005 2nd
Hidden 30/Aug/04 Lead
nicholas Barrowclough 07/Jul/04 Lead
with Mark
Hidden ?/Jul/04 2nd dnf
lukea 12/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Al
rapidrich 12/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Zoe
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2004 Lead rpt

A route coming a cropper due to its fame - now very polished...

joe c ook ?/Jul/03 -
Gus 25/May/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/03 Lead O/S
paul m hadley ??/2003 -
westaway ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/02 2nd O/S
Alastair Hudson 03/Jan/02 Lead O/S
with Steve Golley
Jus ??/2002 Lead dnf


Hidden ??/2002 -
Brown ?/Aug/01 Lead
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2000 Lead
philhilo ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
bullybones ??/2000 -
Dave Musgrove ?/Aug/99 2nd rpt
with Pete Finklaire
Hidden ?/Jun/99 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/May/99 Lead
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ??/1999 -
wolf.leeb ??/1999 2nd O/S
petekeron ??/1999 2nd O/S
with Alex Binks
JulesV ??/1999 Lead O/S
MjrTom ?/Nov/98 Lead O/S
DavidR 26/Aug/98 Lead dnf
with John Marston
djmarko75 ?/Jun/98 Lead O/S
BenTiffin ?/May/98 TR
with Andy Bissell
stuart100 20/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Claire Graham
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
ellis ?/Aug/97 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/97 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/97 Lead O/S
D Tempest 20/Apr/97 Lead
with Rick
Hidden 19/Apr/97 2nd
kp64zl ?/Apr/97 Lead O/S
with David Pickford
Paul Boardman ??/1997 2nd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Hidden ??/1997 2nd
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
nacnud 29/Nov/96 2nd
Jon Read ?/Aug/96 Lead

I wasn't planning to do any climbing this evening, but a spur-of-the-moment idea by Dave had us racing to the quarry at dusk. Fell off once low down, onto in situ RP0 which Dave has now. Climbed with didgeridoo echoing around quarry. Finished as fireworks whizzed around quarry, in complete darkness. Then we went to a typical Llanberis party. Wild evening!

with Dave Hollingham
WB ?/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
MarkDavies36 ?/May/96 Lead dog

One fall on the bottom hard move. Returned to ground and re-started

kristian ??/1996 Lead O/S
robtrooper ??/1996 -
Hidden 11/Oct/95 Lead RP
andyblain ?/Jul/95 Lead O/S

my first E3

Roget 08/May/95 Lead rpt
with jon
mikedelderfield 01/Apr/95 2nd O/S
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
with Paul Tucker
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
keefe ??/1995 -
neilh 13/Aug/94 Lead
with sara hyde
Strong Steve 15/Jun/94 Lead G/U
michael burrows 10/Apr/94 Lead rpt
with lola gunn
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
richparry ??/1994 -
John Southworth 24/Oct/93 Lead O/S
ste_d 10/Oct/93 Lead O/S
with mik
ellie macpherson ?/Sep/93 2nd

Brilliant climbing, make sure your boots are comfy

with Graeme Jarvis, Ian Holmes
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
tlr 27/Jul/93 Lead
with Pom
nai 21/Jul/93 Lead
with Tim
Rob Davies 30/Jun/93 Lead dog

Took 25' fall after running out of strength on crack before overlap. Roy's one and only route on slate!

with Roy Lindsay
Pete_Frost 26/Jun/93 Lead O/S

On fire that day. Tried to repeat it in 2011 and fell off before the first pro when talking to my second when I should have been climbing - ouch!

with Nick Davies
Thefly ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/93 Lead O/S

First E3

Stoney Boy 19/Apr/93 2nd O/S
with Bob Marks
Hidden 13/Apr/93 2nd O/S
jamiev 31/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Adrian Berry
OMSKB 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S

Done before breakfast

with Ian Roberts
CBA ??/1993 -
adi bryant ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Tim
Tony Little 01/Nov/92 Lead O/S
with Pete
Hidden 04/Oct/92 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ?/Aug/92 2nd rpt
with Paul Twomey
goi.ashmore 19/Jun/92 Lead O/S

Typical of the time. Manic drive up to North Wales and hit the slate about an hour before dusk.

with Simon Coles
Andy Fielding 18/May/92 2nd
with Mark Lardner
TheAndyBarker ?/May/92 Lead
with Nick Sharpe
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 -
with Paul Kallmes
SPD224 ?/Apr/92 AltLd
kato'sdad 29/Feb/92 Lead
with Jerry Mattinson
channinga ??/1992 -
mattnuttall 07/Sep/91 Lead β
with Alan Holbert
mattnuttall 15/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Matthieu Mounier
Hidden 13/Jul/91 Lead
Rich Kirby 01/Jul/91 2nd
with Andy Mackay
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/91 Lead O/S
with Andy Turner
nige 24/May/91 Lead O/S
with sven rowan
Hidden 30/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden ??/1991 Lead O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Nov/90 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/90 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 20/Aug/90 Lead O/S


with Alan Holden
mark-abz 11/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Pete T
Campbell42 22/Jul/90 Lead O/S

Climbed this route twice, a couple of years earlier with Mick Mason

with Barry Roberts
Dave Rumney 28/May/90 Lead
Hidden 26/May/90 Lead β
Hidden 05/May/90 Lead O/S
whispering nic 14/Apr/90 Lead
with noj
whispering nic ?/Apr/90 Lead
with noj
Paul Figg ?/Apr/90 Lead
Hidden 18/Mar/90 Lead dnf
jfletcher 18/Feb/90 Lead O/S

LUMC meet

lukea ??/1990 Lead O/S
with Al
chrisdavies ??/1990 Lead O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1990 2nd O/S
mik1miller ??/1990 Solo

pulled a moony on the over hang

Hidden ??/1990 Lead
PaulHermes ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??/1990 Lead O/S

It just keeps coming, great move after good.

with Hugh Woodland
Hidden ?/Sep/89 Lead O/S
michael burrows 27/Aug/89 Lead
with brian jones
mik1miller 19/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
Dave Musgrove 17/Jul/89 Lead O/S

We all led it.

with Rupert Wyard, David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 08/Jul/89 Lead
with Dad
davemhart 02/Jul/89 2nd O/S
Rich Kirby 01/Jun/89 Lead O/S
eroica64 06/May/89 2nd

Ooh. Ah!!!

with Ray Hancock
Hidden 14/Apr/89 Lead
Billg ??/1989 Lead O/S
NickHarms ??/1989 -
Neil R ??/1989 2nd
with Howard
Steve Crowe 17/Sep/88 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/88 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/88 Lead
steve taylor ?/May/88 Lead O/S

Excellent route

with Jim Waddington
steve taylor ?/May/88 Lead
with vic radvills
tonykay ??/1988 -
Mike Owen 04/Sep/87 2nd rpt
with Elaine Owen
Mike Owen 27/Aug/87 2nd rpt
with Paul Schlofeldt, Elaine Owen
andybirtwistle 03/Aug/87 2nd
with Ian Kyle
Bruce Kerr 20/Jul/87 Lead
with Johnny May
Hidden 20/Jun/87 2nd
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/87 2nd

Found overlap quite easy. Done the same day that 'Maggie' was re-elected for a second term...I had the day off from teaching. There was a van with speaker on the roof, driving around Llanberis and it even came into the quarry.

with Frank Richards
uphillnow 28/May/87 Lead

Larry had fallen from the move at 20 feet so I finished the route

with Larry Parks
charlesmfrench 03/May/87 Lead O/S
with Pog
charlesmfrench 03/May/87 Lead O/S
with Pog
sadams 13/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with unseconded
Guy ??/1987 Lead O/S

Didn't know about using the nutkey as the first bit of gear so lead through the first crux until 20-25ft where I got my first gear in with relief. Sounds like the crack has widened since then. Rest went fine and have to say I loved nearly every second of it.

with The old man
Hidden ??/1987 -
DDDD ??/1987 -
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
keefe 14/Sep/86 -
Hidden 27/Jul/86 Lead
shark ?/Jul/86 Lead
with Charlie Stripp
Snivelling ?/Jul/86 -

A tricky start, possibly due to being excited about the route. After the first few metres it was fingery fun. Running short of gear at the overlap but great views from the top.

shark 14/Jun/86 Lead dnf
with Steve Etherington
Hidden 20/Apr/86 2nd
Trevor Hodgson ??/1986 Solo β
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Hidden ??/1986 -
Hidden 29/May/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/85 2nd
Bob 07/May/85 Lead O/S

It was given E5 at the time though everyone knew it was going to get downgraded. Did it after tea in Pete's Eats following a full day at Pen Trwyn.

with J. Topping
Hidden 07/May/85 2nd O/S
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Nick Biven ??/1985 2nd
with Karl Strange
Hidden ??/1985 -
Mark Kemball 15/Jun/84 Lead

A rare example of grade shift downwards - it was E5 in Pollitt's 1982 supplement, but we thought it was worth more like E4.

with Willie Todd
steve L 20/May/84 Lead
with Clive Curle, Alun Richardson
Gezzer ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Andy Towne
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 04/Jul/83 Lead dnf
with Tom Jones
Mike Owen 08/Jun/83 Lead O/S
with Pete Chadwick
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S

A fairly early ascent when it was still considered to be E5.

with Dave 'Chesters' Lee
Tim Sparrow ??/1983 2nd
with Ned
Hidden ??/1982 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 153
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 146
Votes cast 142
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set