An outstanding icy mixed climb taking the steep pillar between Riders on the Storm and Albatross. The route uses the narrow sinuous groove just right of Riders on the Storm to bypass the huge overhang defending the lower pillar, and then continues up the crest.
1. 30m Start directly below the pillar and climb a discontinuous icy groove up the crest of a broad rib to belay below the steep lower section of the pillar.
2. 30m Move up the hanging slab right of Riders on the Storm. Climb this on thin ice and pull over an overlap (crux) and climb a second slab to a foothold ledge. Continue up the narrow groove right of Riders on the Storm to its top. Move right for 3m above the overhang along an exposed break and belay at the foot of the upper pillar. A demanding and serious pitch climbed on very thin ice.
3. 60m Climb a steep break in the centre of the wall above and move up then right to the edge of the pillar overlooking the depression of Albatross on the right. Move left along a horizontal crack for 2m then pull onto a thinly iced slab above topped by a roof. Pull through the roof onto a second thinly iced slab and climb this to easier ground. Continue up the crest of the buttress via a short steep gully section and belay at the foot of the final icefall of Le Nid d’Aigle. Another difficult pitch.
4. 30m Climb an icy fault diverging left from the icefall for 10m, then step left onto the sharp front arête of the buttress. Climb this on ice in a sensational position to reach the upper ice slopes. Follow these easily to the top.
S.M.Richardson, I.Small 01/Apr/2007