|Arctic Tern||VII 5|
|A good thin face route based on the icy grooves cutting into the left side of the pillar between Riders on the Storm and Albatross.
1. 30m Start as for the Left-Hand Start to Albatross and climb straight up icy slabs to belay in the steep V-corner 5m
left of the twinned groove of Albatross.
2. 45m Step left and climb a steep ice runnel to exit at the top of the slab of Fascist Groove, and continue up an easier groove for 10m. The left wall is cut by a thinly iced, stepped groove-line. Delicately climb this for 20m then continue
up the crest of the rib to reach the traverse line of Flight of the Condor.
3. 45m Step right and climb a 5m icy chimney to reach an open left-facing groove. Follow this for 20m and step right onto the blunt rib between the exit gullies of Nid d’Aigle and Riders on the Storm. Climb the rib until below a final steepening.
4. 20m Climb ice on the right edge of the steepening and finish up a short snow slope to the top.|
S.M.Richardson, I.Small 25/Mar/2007
Photo: Artic Tern VII,5 Indicator wall © petemacpherson