260m, 5 pitches. (NOTE: Route may vary depending on conditions!)

P1: Ascend the steepening icy ramp for 40 meters to a 80 degree six meter icewall. Scoot over this and left to belay 10 meters back on wires and a rusty peg at the lower and smaller of two roofs (60m).

P2: Traverse right from belay and attack a short steep bulge to gain a 45 degree snow slope. move up this for 30 meters or so to another wire belay at the back of the scoop (50m).

P3/4/5: Move up and left to the foot of a really nice 60/70 ramp. Belay at the top (50m... ish), or continue round the corner where you might be able to see the summit cornice and up the first snow field passing small buttress on right (50m), and then up to the second snow slope to the top (50m).

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, 100 Mid-Grade Scottish Winter.

Hidden 27/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Feb 2nd
andyinglis 21/Mar/15 Solo O/S

Great mountaineering day out, very alpine.

alexm198 16/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

In 5 pitches, lead 2, 3 and 5. First pitch is a cracker!

Robertgiddy 14/Mar/15 Lead

Great route! Climbed the first corner in one pitch, this however involved 5m of moving together to reach the belay. This was with 50m ropes so there must be some depth of snow at the bottom - we were expecting the corner to be 90m according to our guide. The cornice was easy.

DundeeDave 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 09/Feb/15 -
with murillo lessa
Murilo Lessa 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Rhys lead first pitch that is the main interesting bit of the climb, the rest is ok but a nice line nonetheless.

with Rhys Macallister
Malcolm Bass ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd dnf
Peter Holder 10/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
markwarner 08/Apr/13 AltLd
Keith Lambley 06/Apr/13 AltLd
with Kate R
Hidden 04/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Ste Ridd 04/Apr/13 AltLd

First pitch bold. Take lots of screws.

Stuart Johnston 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

First pitch is long with screw belays at bottom and top. Take lots of scews unless you are feeling bold.

with Adam Ryan, Dave Cowell
adam 24 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
machars 29/Mar/13 AltLd
with matt
Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd
shugsan 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom B
team fat belly 29/Mar/13 -

Good conditions throughout

with Euan
Hoyes 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Excellent conditions. Rach led the crux first pitch, which had a particularly steep section just below the belay.

Batt 29/Mar/13 AltLd

P1 - me, P2 - J. Brilliant

Oliver Sherman 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Hugh Thomas
bandersnatch 27/Mar/13 Lead
with Mairi B
Hidden 23/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/13 Lead rpt
davesa 16/Mar/13 AltLd
with Mark Huxham
Hidden 13/Mar/13 AltLd
Dougbart 13/Mar/13 -
with Iain
Hidden 11/Mar/13 Lead
scottie390 11/Mar/13 Lead O/S
dav_713 11/Mar/13 AltLd
with Davie Scott
John Roe 10/Mar/13 Lead
with Brian Smith (Kinloss)
radioshed 10/Mar/13 AltLd O/S


with Marnoch, dave s
Brian Smith 84 10/Mar/13 2nd
David Stevens 10/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Marnoch Hamillton-Jones, Matt Craig
mhamiltonj 10/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 09/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
wee hippy 05/Mar/13 Lead
with john jones
Elastic Jones 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Alistair
joe_lancs 03/Mar/13 Lead

Stepped out but pretty slushy

sann1458 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Tim Hamlet 01/Mar/13 AltLd
with Pete Nellis
Andrew Barker ?/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

More like IV,4 on the day.

with Hannah
abbeywall 26/Feb/13 AltLd

Led 1 (60m), P2-30m, then about 40m out

with K
Col Kingshott 26/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Very hooked out. A bulge towards the end of the first pitch was tech 5.

Jamie B 26/Feb/13 AltLd

Very easy for grade, probably IV,4

with Richard Gentry
Hidden 25/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
akhughes 25/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Two long pitches in an hour.

Hidden 25/Feb/13 AltLd
dan gibson 25/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Helen Gibson 25/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

1st Scottish winter climb.. couldn't have asked for a more beautiful day.

with dan
Stuzz 25/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Gwilym
Hidden 24/Feb/13 Lead
petegunn 24/Feb/13 AltLd

A superb day, first time to Meggie and what a route. Well stepped but still excellent. Led (with some simu climbing) 100m to our 1st belay. On the summit for 9.30, the cloud lifting for us to be basked in glorious sunshine. Down via the window to watch teams enjoying The Wand, Pumpkin and Staghorn while we had our lunch :)

with Ash
MadProfessor 23/Feb/13 -

In good nick, brilliant climb, good company, started in cloud, finished in sun, well worth a few stars.....

with Mr Wilson, Mr Vaughan
Hidden 23/Feb/13 2nd
Tarquin 23/Feb/13 -
with Stu Elford, Liz
Hidden 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
adie84 23/Feb/13 -
Rob84 23/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Si Ashmore, Rob Adie
Adrianw 23/Feb/13 2nd O/S

First time on a proper ice route-outstanding!

with John Spencer, John Vaughan
Hidden 23/Feb/13 2nd
davebrox 22/Feb/13 Lead

With Fi. T Blue sky day, now wind either, quite a number of teams ahead of us.

tomshanti 22/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Me P1,3 Moved together,P5,to top. Fantastic(tho very stepped) Good fat ice,steep bulge before first belay.

Steven Andrews 21/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Bit badly hacked out but still good fun

with Ben Tibbetts
Hannah Evans 21/Feb/13 AltLd

Hooked and stepped but good fun.

with Andy Barker
freudy_love 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave Douglas
Dave Douglas 19/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Good day out on a classic route. Weather perfect. A bit stepped out and busy, but still an excellent day out.

peter neden 19/Feb/13 Lead
Stewart Armstrong 19/Feb/13 AltLd
with Peter Neden
luckyjim 16/Feb/13 AltLd
with D Helm
greglad 16/Feb/13 -
Hidden 12/Feb/13 AltLd
Sutty22 08/Feb/13 2nd

Superb climb although not in 3* condition. Some good ice separated by cruddy snowy sections. Long day but a great achievement. Thanks to the guys that allowed us to go in front.

with Rocio, Claire Roff
lawrenceK 08/Feb/13 AltLd

Great climbing with some nice company on the route.

alpinebutterfly 08/Feb/13 2nd
with C Sutcliffe, R Siemens
Hidden 07/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
gripped01 02/Feb/13 AltLd
with Rimon Than
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Feb/13 Lead
with michael kirby
Charlie Zephyr Booth ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with michael kirby
tjmillen ?/Feb/13 Lead
with Rachel
The old James turnbull ?/Feb/13 AltLd
with rich howells
ashpreston ??/2013 -
BorisVBlade 15/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Sam Thompson
Hidden 15/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
RM199 13/Feb/12 2nd O/S
Theeni 12/Feb/12 AltLd

In reasonable nick if a little sugary in places

with Mike Kennedy
benclimbing 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Good route, thawing today so not much in the way of reliable screws. Felt very straightforward for the grade. Certainly a 2 star route but in the SMC guidebook 4 stars!?

kenneM 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S

In pretty easy nick for grade V but a great little route.

with Henry Crosby
Dave Latimer ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Liam Ingram 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Melting and a bit thin but still good. Top of pitch 1 was crux.

with Ondrej Mandula
markfairbank 05/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Abit warm but was in pretty good condition - led P1

with Paul Sheehan, Dave Brown
Mountain Llama 05/Mar/11 AltLd

1st trip to Meagy, found conditions OK even after slight thaw. Lead P2.

with Mark & Paul
phil64 01/Mar/11 Solo

lovely evening solo whilst wmla candidates dug snowholes!!!!

Martin Haworth 21/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 21/Feb/11 AltLd rpt

A soft touch at grade V.

simon_D 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

well travelled (do the direct start, it's nice)

with Neil Silver
tim newton 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with kev turner, lee leatherbarrow
samrad 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with tom livingstone
Tom Livingstone 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/11 Lead
ruaidh 19/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3/4/5 (ran together). Excellent conditions despite sh*tty forecast. Massive cornice at the top but a large gap in it saved the day.

with Luke
edmund94 19/Feb/11 2nd β
Hidden 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
George Ormerod 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Good conditions on a stunning day. Excellent route.

with Mark
Mark Young 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Roger Cruse 17/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Kris
Captain Solo 15/Feb/11 AltLd

A very strong updraft combined with spindrift made this a bit of a battle. Climbed most of the 2nd pitch with my eyes shut! A very good route nontheless but really only IV,4.

with Dave
masa-alpin 13/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Abed off after P1, as we were running late. There were loads of spindrift avalanches. The quality of P1 was excellent, though.

with Matt P
Hidden ?/Feb/11 -
msoldn 31/Jan/11 2nd dnf

Luke lead p1 and p2, then retreated off insitu nut due to deteriorating ice conditions. Great climb up to that point!

with Luke
alkira 29/Jan/11 AltLd
with J Finlay
Hidden 25/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
tomdude 20/Jan/11 AltLd
with joe dowsett
Rich Kirby 08/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

First winter route in 20 yrs. Fabulous day out, ace route. Kev led hard pitches.

with Kev
connor 06/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Sweet classic climb... very sustained Ice ice ice! Got to stay in the smc rayburn hut as well good day out for sally's birthday. Second pich was the hardest

with willey
Ollie B 05/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

quality ice, brilliant route finished at sunset

with J.Monypenny
Hidden ??/2011 -
Timo Austino ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
am_bodach 14/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
niall_mac 14/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
steveb2006 14/Mar/10 AltLd

Good climbing inspite of a thaw set in. Snow over ice in places. Rain on approach and cloudy. Others retreated from Smiths when avalanched

with Mike Pycroft
Stephen18 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/10 -
gripped01 ?/Mar/10 AltLd
with Mike Palmer
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
John Roe 23/Feb/10 Lead
with Gordon Henderson
John Pickles 23/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris Harling
gordon henderson 23/Feb/10 2nd O/S
gregor 22/Feb/10 -
Jen Crook 22/Feb/10 2nd
AndyL 21/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with neil
Tile Diver 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S

Fucking Awesome weather, like an Alpine day, busy though, at least 2 party's ahead of us, came off i the dark!!

with Rossi
steven 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Simon Dawson
sdawson1 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S


with swifty
NeilGriffiths 19/Feb/10 AltLd

Magic Alpine day. Incredible hoar crystals on the plateau. Pint owed to bloke who caught my dropped glove with his face!

with Adam
A Crook 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Neil did the hard bits and I got the donkey work in the thigh deep powder :) Magical day

Rhys Jones 18/Feb/10 -
Thefly 18/Feb/10 -
with Stuart Rose, Rhys Jones, andy smith
Hidden 18/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden 14/Feb/10 -
BenTiffin 14/Feb/10 AltLd

Lots of ice, a delight to climb.

with Dan Robinson
jazzyjackson 13/Feb/10 AltLd
with Jimbob
twoplates 13/Feb/10 2nd
with dave sharpe
CurlyStevo 11/Feb/10 AltLd

Wikid fat plastic ice. Lead the crux as my first grade V.

with Kenny
Hidden 11/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Colin Mcgregor 11/Feb/10 AltLd
Andy Moles 08/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris, Neil
Timo Austino 08/Feb/10 Lead

No chance of getting lonely or lost....well not til the summit! Walking on a bearing to the window shows that there are some seriously wonky compass's around!

SWalls 07/Feb/10 AltLd
graeme gatherer 07/Feb/10 -

In fine condition and very easy at the grade just now. Steady 4

MonkeyDawson 06/Feb/10 Lead

Along with about a dozen others! Great conditions.

with Bob Foster
Hidden 06/Feb/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden 01/Feb/10 2nd
uphillnow ?/Feb/10 Lead

Waited a long time to get started. Good conditions

with cath walton
Hidden ?/Feb/10 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/10 Lead
niallk 31/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2, 4 and 6/7. Did 5 pitches then moved together to the top. Enjoyable route, decent screw placements today.

with Willie
Hidden 31/Jan/10 Lead
TimPerkin 29/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris Griffiths, Colin Beechey
morsy 24/Jan/10 AltLd
with gerhard mors
sadams 23/Jan/10 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
Ken Applegate 21/Jan/10 AltLd

Great route, and my first on Meagaidh. Although the guidebook suggests 300m and 7 pitches, we climbed it in 5 pitches (60m ropes) and reckon 270m.

with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden ??/2010 -
mike.moss ??/2010 Lead O/S
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -
with Andy Munro
bullwinkle 19/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Sam
jamestheyip 09/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Miguel Ciriza
Hidden 18/Mar/06 AltLd
smac ?/Feb/03 AltLd O/S
with Colin Maclean
luckyjim ?/Feb/03 AltLd
with K Marsden
Hidden ?/Mar/02 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/Jan/02 -
with Blonde Tom
kato'sdad 20/Feb/01 2nd
with Giles Trussel
Hidden 27/Jan/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 AltLd O/S
seanyt ?/Feb/00 AltLd
bandersnatch ??/2000 Lead
AB1965 10/Feb/98 AltLd
steveb2006 08/Mar/97 Lead

The ice is buried beneath a layer of snow making disconcerting climbing conditions. Good climb though.

with Ian Cartwright
Hidden ?/Feb/97 -
pingora 07/Jan/97 AltLd rpt
with Jaz H
Tenko 06/Apr/96 AltLd
with Kev Wilson
phardman ?/Feb/96 -
nickdonohue ??/1996 AltLd
with Caley Latham
Grezza ?/Feb/95 Lead
Derek Ryden ?/Feb/94 AltLd O/S
with Ian Parnell
FrankW ?/Jan/94 AltLd O/S
with Unknown
pingora 10/Mar/93 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R, Blaggers
Hidden 17/Feb/91 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/88 AltLd
Hidden 11/Mar/87 Solo
steveb2006 25/Feb/87 AltLd

Good conditions but windy and a lot of spindrift coming down.

with Max Rock
Bruce Kerr 17/Feb/85 AltLd
with Andy Cant
Mark Kemball 11/Feb/85 AltLd
with Ken Grainger
mark-abz ?/Feb/84 AltLd
with Walter P
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High 5
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