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The Wand** V 5

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[The wand V5***, 2 kb]3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: The wand V5*** © dizzyg
View all 27 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 95 logbooks, and on 48 wishlists.

yesbutnobutyesbut - 2014

Led first pitch, second pitch from belay quite thin and getting detached
abbeywall - AltLd - 13/Apr/13 with K, FM

Pete23 - AltLd - 06/Apr/13 with Gregor

gregor - 06/Apr/13

el diablo - AltLd - 16/Mar/13 with Nick Bowen

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Mar/13

furbrow - AltLd - 13/Mar/13 with Roy H

Hidden - Lead - 12/Mar/13

Good conditions on main pitch but ice on short exit pitch (straight up) was hollow, holed and fragile, was worried a lot of it would fall down.
furbrow - AltLd - 05/Mar/13 with Ruth L

sann1458 - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13

Great ice formations, belayed in the snow fairy cave :) Top pitch a bit scary due to the thawing conditions on the top half of the climb.
petegunn - Lead - 28/Feb/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/13

Really nice and interesting ice pitch. Make it as hard or easy as you want if the ice umbrellas make it so. They were fat when we did it and great fun. Although getting stepped out now. Walked to the summit to top off a great day :)
geoff.comley - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/13 with Vic Paterson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/13

Two long pitches in 45 mins
akhughes - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/13

Ben Sharp - AltLd - 25/Feb/13 with jon

Ice fat and in fantastic condition
andybrown114 - AltLd - 23/Feb/13 with Ade Mellor

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/13

Hidden - 23/Feb/13

lovely blue bird day, super conditions. well stepped
connor - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with willey

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Feb/13

great fun, particularily going through the ice cave on the main pitch
simondunf - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with caspar

Charlie Zephyr Booth - Lead - Feb/13 with michael kirby

The last climb of the winter season, a month earlier than last year!
Captain Solo - AltLd - 19/Feb/12 with Gary

Soloed to main pitch, rock belay on left. The main pitch was harder than it looked from below as it was only solid ice in places, with quite a lot of hollow ice and crystalline snow. A sustained pitch to another good rock belay 55m. Then a choice of exits to the plateau. We took a set of wires, (1-9), Rockcentrics, (3-7), and 6 short to medium ice screws. An excellent route.
GaryK - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Ewan Lyons

Hidden - 2012

luckyjim - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11

machars - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with Bjorn Verduijn

Simon K - 2nd - 08/Mar/11 with Mike Pescod, AB

Lead steep direct finish.
Liam Ingram - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Ondrej Mandula

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Mar/11

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Mar/11

AB1965 - Mar/11

soloed up to ice pitch , fine sustained 50metres of ice , first grade 5 ice route found it easier than expected .
dizzyg - 2nd - 26/Feb/11 with kenny wright, aidy

Mushy snow on the approach but good conditions on the main pitch. Felt about as hard as Black Crag Icefall.
Northern Mountain Monkey - Lead - 26/Feb/11

luckyjim - AltLd - Feb/11 with D Helm

Short and sweet. Led 1st pitch, about 40m to a nook, and the 3rd. http://vimeo.com/19411213
niallk - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/11 with Willie

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jan/11

walk up in blizzard conditions - clear during climb and walk off - geat climb! - For fotos of the day go to: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hud14/sets/72157625791023584/ (originally we had aimed for the Pumpkin, but did The Wand instead)
HansUDes - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Spike Sellers

adie84 - 2011

centurion05 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Probably the best, and certainly the most sustained ice route I've done. The initial 45m had very little in the way of steps or hooks, so the route had quite an adventurous feel. Went straight up, via some tricky ice steps to gain the plateau. Awesome route!
Ken Applegate - Lead - 13/Mar/10 with Hannah Evans

Hannah Evans - 2nd - 13/Mar/10 with Ken Applegate

Led crux, excellent ice, poor vis on the crag and had to nav off the top
John Roe - AltLd - 11/Mar/10 with Stu Joyce

One 'magic' pitch.
John Workman - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with Mark II

morsy - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with gerhard mors

Hay - AltLd O/S - Mar/10 with James Dunn

Hidden - 2nd - Mar/10

gripped01 - AltLd - Mar/10 with Mike Palmer

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Feb/10

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/10 with Roel

Route in good condition overall, but a bit fragile near the top of the second pitch. Great work by Rich, very confident lead.
Si Carter - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10

twoplates - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with dave sharpe

richardlong78 - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Simon Carter

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Feb/10

Felt easy for a V
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/10 with Dan Moore

Jamie B - AltLd - 07/Feb/10 with Pete Duggan

Lenny - 2nd O/S - 06/Feb/10 with Pete

plenty of ice gave fantastic conditions, well worth waiting for. main pitch was sustained and exposed, but plenty of bomber screws and good ice.
adw07 - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Scott Becker

Stunning conditions.
scottbecker - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with Andrew Warren

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/10

colinthrelfall - 2010

mike.moss - Lead dog - 2010

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Jamie Simpson - 2009 with Andy Munro

Lead first pitch, full 60m. superb conditions
towdman - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/06 with Graham Armitage

Graham Armitage - AltLd - 19/Mar/06 with towdman

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/06

smac - AltLd O/S - Feb/06 with Colin Maclean, Diggler

Chad123 - Jan/02 with Blonde Tom

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Feb/01

Hidden - 2001

bandersnatch - Lead - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

seanyt - AltLd - Feb/99

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Feb/97

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/97

innes - AltLd - 1997

Grezza - Lead - Feb/96

phardman - Feb/96

FrankW - AltLd O/S - Feb/95 with Andy R

Superb
Dave Musgrove Jnr - 12/Feb/94 with Nick Ashton

Went for the long pitch - bypassed the first peg belay, just clipped it. While climbing the steep final step of the pitch, kicking blind, noted a strange feeling. Looking down, noted one crampon point sticking through the rope - the one attached to the peg 20ft below. Oh dearie me. Best to switch off and climb! (In the days of flat chisel front points - it cut most of the rope fibres)
Tim Sparrow - Lead - Feb/92 with Ian Owen

Hidden - Solo - 12/Mar/87

mark-abz - AltLd - Feb/84 with Walter P

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Voting
Total votes cast 77
hard VI0 of 26
VI0 of 26
easy VI0 of 26
hard V0 of 26
V16 of 26
easy V9 of 26
hard IV1 of 26
IV0 of 26
easy IV0 of 26
hard 60 of 26
60 of 26
easy 60 of 26
hard 50 of 26
521 of 26
easy 54 of 26
hard 41 of 26
40 of 26
easy 40 of 26
3 Stars6 of 25
2 Stars16 of 25
1 Star3 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 95 (1.1%)
Lead11 of 95 (11.6%)
Followed11 of 95 (11.6%)
Alt Leads50 of 95 (52.6%)
Unknown22 of 95 (23.2%)

'Climbed'67 of 95 (70.5%)
clean O/S27 of 95 (28.4%)
dogged1 of 95 (1.1%)