210ft “Boiled or mashed, sir?” Climbed on the hottest day of the year. The striking diagonal crack slanting left from the foot of Concrete Rose. Pitch 1 and 2 could be lead in one very long pitch with a triple set of friends. As it is although there’s plenty of it protection is never completely reassuring! Huge friends pretty essential.
1. Follow an easy ramp to the terrifyingly obvious wide crack slanting along the lip of the cave. Good jams lead to a particularly funky bit requiring the full offwidth improvisation; arm bars, head rests and full body jams, hopefully you know the score. Belay 20ft beyond the cave at good gear but a very poor stance.
2. The continuation is a little more conventional although still tricky in places. Belay onto of the big flake of Bird’s Nest Crack.
3. Ramble leftwards and take the rotting runnels to steep grass which is scaled to a “stance” on the footpath. Who needs a stinking belay!
Ian Parnell, Dave Pickford (Alternate Leads) 10/Aug/2005