UKC Logbook - 'Layback Problem'

Access Banned

Currently access to the quarry and radical road is banned for all activities. Additional signage has been added dissuading climbing.

A geological survey has been delayed by covid.

Please do not risk access to this popular climbing spot at this time.

Permission to climb is in theory granted by getting a free pass from the Historic Scotland Park Ranger Service, who hide in a wee glass fronted building behind Holyrood Palace. The requirement of the pass isn't heavily enforced, and because most climbers stick to bouldering in the South Quarry, reports of problems are rare.

Significant geotechnical rock scaling has recently taken place all along Salisbury crags. Be aware that some long standing "loose" sections may have been disturbed and previously easy access routes are now covered with dislodged rubble.

Start with left hand on the lesser layback hold to the left of the central layback, move up to a well chalked hold, move up with difficulty left to the rail.

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User	Date		Notes
Phil_Brock	18 Apr, 2019	Show βeta βeta: UKC description slightly different to the Boulder Scotland guidebook which just says "up to the chalky hold above" rather than "slopey LHS of 2nd handold". Not sure if it implies that you're not meant to use the incut part of the hold and instead layback then gaston off the slopey edge / mini arete below which would make it harder (and a fairly strict eliminate).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: UKC description slightly different to the Boulder Scotland guidebook which just says "up to the chalky hold above" rather than "slopey LHS of 2nd handold". Not sure if it implies that you're not meant to use the incut part of the hold and instead layback then gaston off the slopey edge / mini arete below which would make it harder (and a fairly strict eliminate).