Not the tiny and no-harder variation at the very top, but a thin flake leading right further down.

jev 30/May Lead O/S
with Paul
el diablo 14/May/14 Lead
with John Sanders
el diablo 04/May/13 Lead
with Ali Callum
jonny taylor 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Maybe it depends how soon you head right, because I found this pretty thin and difficult for HVS, setting off from the flake at the bottom of the groove and climbing the face rather than the arete/groove

with Matt
philipstead 18/Apr/11 -
backpack ??/2011 -
andrew sandercock 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S

i'm not sure the way i did it was hvs and chris said he had to be very strict to avoid using big holds.

with Chrismo
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead
zoeduffin 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
gypsy3006 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
mike99 25/May/09 Lead
iceicebaby 29/Apr/09 2nd O/S

Don't think this is 5a. The hardest move on the route is on the Hard Severe bit, and about 4b!

Hidden 28/Jun/08 -
Rich Clague ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
PaulWillis1973 ??/2008 -
LHumble ??/2007 Lead O/S
with K.M
Hidden 11/Jun/06 2nd β
Hidden 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Apr/05 Solo
Stuart Macfarlane 21/Aug/04 Lead
with Iain F
Stuart Macfarlane 18/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with John D
Hidden ?/Mar/00 Solo
IanMcC 06/Jun/99 2nd
with Ross Lindsay, eldiablo
Dave Musgrove 27/Aug/89 Solo
Hidden ??/1980 -
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