Cumbria > White Ghyll >
Ethics of War HVS 5a

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[Ethics Of War HVS 5a, 2 kb]Climb Russet Groove until it is possible to swing left above the overhang, to reach the arete. Climb the left side of the arete to the top, which proves easier but bolder than it looks.

Photo: Ethics Of War HVS 5a © bobpilgrem
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This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Moving around the arete wasn't that hard, and if you've got small cams it's not that bold. On the other hand, the approach scramble requires care if the ground is wet.
1poundSOCKS - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/14

Great line- approach scramble needs care.
bobpilgrem - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with Matthew

Very good. A thin and puzzling move onto the slab then some lovely delicate climbing to the top.
BTphonehome - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Matt

Tough little traverse to the arete on thin holds, but then a nice rest place just after. Great climb.
Matt_C9716 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Bram

Rob Rocket - 2nd - 21/Jun/14 with Neil Porter

Backed off the traverse to the arÍte, felt thin and bold. Carried on up Russet Groove instead.
Lessworkmoreclimbing - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/13 with Kev

JanBella - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/13 with matt

Great route. moving around the arÍte is super exciting and nicely exposed. what a way to warm up ...
JanBella - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with frazer

Hidden - Lead - 23/Sep/12

Via start of Heather Groove again. Makes a very nicely balanced VS 4c.
Rog Wilko - Lead - 20/May/12 with Chris Vernon

Why has this got no stars on here? its a great route **
J1PEF - 2nd - 19/Aug/11 with beds

beds74 - Lead - 19/Aug/11 with Claire Astbury

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - 21/Aug/10

tim newton - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/10 with ben hiles

darlolad - 2nd - 04/Aug/10

martrin - Lead - 29/Jul/10 with Sarah Kekus

tmawer - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with sarah, andrea

with tony and andrea. tony led, i went up up the VS instead of the bold traverse left.. didn't like the look of it thank you very much and good night tony!
Shuttsie - 2nd - 24/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/10

After the move out left onto the arete, lovely climbing padding up the slabby arete. Very worthwhile.
Andy S - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/10 with Dave B, Bob

John Postlethwaite - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/10 with Big John

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

jimdanson - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08 with dan middleton

RocknRoll - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Alastair Hampshire

hard move across to the arete, bold above
danm - Lead - Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/07

Bold for the grade
Shaw Brown - 2nd - 21/Aug/05 with David Jones

tomhull - Lead - 2005

Did this via the start of Heather Groove (the rest of which R.I.P.)
Rog Wilko - Lead - 2002 with Debbie Wilkinson

NickJH - 2002

Dave Westby - Lead - 1997 with Rob Lewis

Dave Westby - Lead - 1996 with Rob Lewis

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

rob.grafton - AltLd - 29/May/94 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/92

mark-abz - Lead - 03/Jun/90 with Simon K

Hidden - 2nd - 1985

Hammy - Lead - 06/Jun/83 with Richard Barker

Bob - Solo O/S - 30/Aug/81 with M. Smith

Hidden - 1975

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
JanBella, Hidden

Total votes cast 29
hard E10 of 10
E10 of 10
easy E10 of 10
hard HVS4 of 10
HVS5 of 10
easy HVS1 of 10
hard VS0 of 10
VS0 of 10
easy VS0 of 10
hard 5b0 of 10
5b0 of 10
easy 5b0 of 10
hard 5a2 of 10
5a8 of 10
easy 5a0 of 10
hard 4c0 of 10
4c0 of 10
easy 4c0 of 10
3 Stars0 of 9
2 Stars8 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 42 (2.4%)
Lead23 of 42 (54.8%)
Followed13 of 42 (31.0%)
Alt Leads2 of 42 (4.8%)
Unknown3 of 42 (7.1%)

'Climbed'25 of 42 (59.5%)
clean O/S14 of 42 (33.3%)
clean rpt2 of 42 (4.8%)
dnf1 of 42 (2.4%)