Alopecia* E5 6a
[Puzzlement strikes...the crux step of Alopecia, 2 kb]20m. The striking arete between Welcome to the Cruise and Diverticulitis. A very bold sketchy move above a grim landing gains the first peg (E4 if extended), then more reasonable but well positioned climbing up the prow past another peg. Upgraded due to popular demand and common sense. Possibly 6b for the short. [Cleaned Summer 2014, pegs in okay condition but both can be backed up nearby]

Photo: Puzzlement strikes...the crux step of Alopecia © Nicola
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This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Finally climbed clean. 5th attempt today. :o)
Denpov - TR RP - 19/Feb/13

Tried again, failed clean climb and what a battle, the crux oh the crux - I am running out of skin on some fingers. This maybe the toughest route I should be able to climb, 6b I think for me as could do with being a longer person. :o) x4
Denpov - TR dog - 15/Feb/13

Self-Belay, Tried this route for 1st time and did 2 failed attempts - crux was where I struggled. Looks like I could do this with a bit more work. Nice route.
Denpov - TR dog - 12/Feb/13

Took ages to man-up to the crux move -felt like a guaranteed barn-door. After that the upper arete is great fun - nice delicate climbing. Definitely felt E5 to me...
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Davide

Belaying for Neil who led this smoothly.Had a dig on a TR but no joy.Crux feels thin, will return someday soon.
Sean Bell - TR dnf - 20/Jul/09 with Neil Carnegie

whispering nic - 2nd - 14/May/09 with McGeek

Best Route in the quarry! Bold move at start to get first peg and its still got some surprises after that! Thought E56A would be fairer grade!
mgeek - Lead β - 14/May/09 with Nic Crawshaw

Voting
Total votes cast 11
hard E60 of 4
E60 of 4
easy E60 of 4
hard E50 of 4
E50 of 4
easy E54 of 4
hard E40 of 4
E40 of 4
easy E40 of 4
hard 6b0 of 4
6b0 of 4
easy 6b1 of 4
hard 6a3 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
hard 5c0 of 4
5c0 of 4
easy 5c0 of 4
3 Stars2 of 3
2 Stars1 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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