Midlothian > Ratho Quarry >
 
Alopecia* E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Diverticulitis
 
Welcome to the Cruise >>
[Enjoying the upper arete..., 3 kb]20m. The striking arete between Welcome to the Cruise and Diverticulitis. Bold move to the first piton (E4 if you extend the peg), and good exposure on the upper section. A little desperate if you are short; possibly E5 6b [cleaned July 2014, pegs in okay condition but both can be backed up nearby]

Photo: Enjoying the upper arete... © Nicola
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 7 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Finally climbed clean. 5th attempt today. :o)
Denpov - TR RP - 19/Feb/13

Tried again, failed clean climb and what a battle, the crux oh the crux - I am running out of skin on some fingers. This maybe the toughest route I should be able to climb, 6b I think for me as could do with being a longer person. :o) x4
Denpov - TR dog - 15/Feb/13

Self-Belay, Tried this route for 1st time and did 2 failed attempts - crux was where I struggled. Looks like I could do this with a bit more work. Nice route.
Denpov - TR dog - 12/Feb/13

Took ages to man-up to the crux move -felt like a guaranteed barn-door. After that the upper arete is great fun - nice delicate climbing. Definitely felt E5 to me...
Dr Toph - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Davide

Belaying for Neil who led this smoothly.Had a dig on a TR but no joy.Crux feels thin, will return someday soon.
Sean Bell - TR dnf - 20/Jul/09 with Neil Carnegie

whispering nic - 2nd - 14/May/09 with McGeek

Best Route in the quarry! Bold move at start to get first peg and its still got some surprises after that! Thought E56A would be fairer grade!
mgeek - Lead β - 14/May/09 with Nic Crawshaw

Voting
Total votes cast 11
hard E50 of 4
E50 of 4
easy E54 of 4
hard E40 of 4
E40 of 4
easy E40 of 4
hard E30 of 4
E30 of 4
easy E30 of 4
hard 6b0 of 4
6b0 of 4
easy 6b1 of 4
hard 6a3 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
hard 5c0 of 4
5c0 of 4
easy 5c0 of 4
3 Stars2 of 3
2 Stars1 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.