The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.
Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.
Rockfax Description
A fine and intimidating route that would not be out of place on Curbar. The upper section is hard to enter, although fortunately good protection is available even without giant cams. © Rockfax
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Yorkshire Off Widths , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tom265 | 21 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Pigeon currently nesting in the niche at the top of the route, below the final roof. Escaped out left but would probably leave it alone until pigeon is gone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pigeon currently nesting in the niche at the top of the route, below the final roof. Escaped out left but would probably leave it alone until pigeon is gone. |
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pep | 4 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: I found some useful holds deep in the back of the crack! | ||
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βeta: I found some useful holds deep in the back of the crack! |
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mat_galvin | 6 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Some interesting problem solving in getting established on the crack. Huge cams are the way forward! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Some interesting problem solving in getting established on the crack. Huge cams are the way forward! |
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Chris Craggs | 19 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: A fine route, easier and better than it looks - and long too. A big cam (4 or 5) does help. Chris | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A fine route, easier and better than it looks - and long too. A big cam (4 or 5) does help. Chris |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Rivelin Edge)