UKC

Restricted Access

The woods are owned and managed for low volume timber extraction (mostly birch). The new owner (as of 2023) has no objection to climbing along the length of the edge. However, the following is expected of all visiting climbers:

  • Approach the crag via its left end using the path which runs between a wall on your left and a stream on your right.
  • Do not approach the main body of the crag directly from the footpath beneath.
  • No felling or cutting of trees without prior permission from the landowner via the BMC. Any approved work of this nature to be carried out by competent individuals only and subject to written risk assessment. 
  • The owner has no objection to the removal of holly, gorse, bramble and ivy. However, in all cases prior consent must still be sought.
  • Please leave no litter, and remove any you find.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

11m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and intimidating route that would not be out of place on Curbar. The upper section is hard to enter, although fortunately good protection is available even without giant cams. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Yorkshire Off Widths , To Goliath's Groove and beyond , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom265 21 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pigeon currently nesting in the niche at the top of the route, below the final roof. Escaped out left but would probably leave it alone until pigeon is gone.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pigeon currently nesting in the niche at the top of the route, below the final roof. Escaped out left but would probably leave it alone until pigeon is gone.
pep 4 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found some useful holds deep in the back of the crack!
Show beta
βeta: I found some useful holds deep in the back of the crack!
mat_galvin 6 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Some interesting problem solving in getting established on the crack. Huge cams are the way forward!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some interesting problem solving in getting established on the crack. Huge cams are the way forward!
Chris Craggs 19 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A fine route, easier and better than it looks - and long too. A big cam (4 or 5) does help. Chris
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fine route, easier and better than it looks - and long too. A big cam (4 or 5) does help. Chris

Logged Ascents

504 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Rivelin Edge

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 65
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Croton Oil

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Rivelin Edge)

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