Scarlett's Chimney* HS 4b
[The crux is getting into the chimney., 3 kb]10m. The chimney on the right side of the hanging rib is an altogether easier affair than its neighbour though it is still a struggle to get established in. HS for chimney gurus! © ROCKFAX
FA. Harry Scarlett late 1920s

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 500, Northern Grit 100 VD - VS.

Photo: The crux is getting into the chimney. © althesin

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 183 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

ralphio - 2nd - 10/Nov/14 with Nik

gavinpeach - 2nd rpt - 25/Oct/14 with Max Pendleton

GregBristol - Lead - 03/Aug/14 with Charlotte Ellis

charley - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/14 with JackD

gazfellows - Lead - 29/Jun/14 with Nic

Hardcore Pat - Lead RP - 23/Jun/14 with Tesspot

mark v - 2nd - 11/May/14 with Mike Norbury

jimbonfire - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Didn't get helmet stuck this time
Jamiet297 - 2nd β - 13/Apr/14 with Tim Reynolds

Failure of will
petecallaghan - Lead dnf - 13/Apr/14 with Jamie Trump

Took over from Pete and Jamie
timreynolds - Lead - 13/Apr/14 with Jamie Trump

VS according to Rockfax
Rafal Malczyk - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Debora Mazzetta, Efe Tunc

Very Old-school, took a while to figure out what to do but very enjoyable thrashing.
Jimbo C - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Jurr

amccann - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Fran

K Wall - 16/Mar/14 with Claire, Martin

admackie - 15/Dec/13 with chris palmer

Oo - 2nd - 14/Dec/13

David_Gledson - 2nd O/S - 11/Dec/13 with Alan

Nick1812P - Lead O/S - 27/Nov/13 with Matt

Reds - Lead O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Althesin, schristophersmith

althesin - 2nd O/S - 23/Nov/13 with Reds, schristophersmith

schristophersmith - 2nd dog - 23/Nov/13 with silas feaver, Ian Redfern

rad
admackie - Lead - 24/Sep/13 with alec

jonathandavey - 2nd - 05/Sep/13 with Greg Lusted

LesserTrochanter - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Jonathan Davey

spragglerocks - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Kat, Steve M

SteveM - Lead - 01/Sep/13 with Rachael, Kat

morganator - Solo - 01/Sep/13

oodie72 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Bob Stone

Great route, loved the battle up this off-width crack.
bobstones - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Iain Gray

kitkat78 - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13 with Rachel S, SteveM

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/13

katoseimensah - Lead - 27/May/13 with Jamie Anderson

Jake Young - Solo rpt - 22/May/13

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/May/13

keith leonard - 2nd - 14/May/13

chrisbussell - 2nd - 14/May/13 with Colin Densem

ColinD - Lead - 14/May/13 with Chris, Keith

Got into an awkward position trying to remove a stuck nut. Ended up pulling on the gear to enable me to get the stuck nut out.
gavinpeach - 2nd dog - 28/Apr/13 with Simon Piron

Got into the chimney reasonably well, then got wedged in the damn thing at the bottom. As per guidebook instructions, lots of swearing ensued.
The Norris - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13 with Gavin

Nigel Bond - Lead - 23/Apr/13 with Bern Hardman

Andrew Lodge - 2nd - 13/Apr/13 with Dave C, Dave

hotfeet - Lead - 13/Apr/13 with Richard M

RichardMc - 2nd - 13/Apr/13 with Alan Mountford

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 07/Apr/13

Hidden - 2013

MikeDowsett - Lead dnf - 11/Nov/12 with Pete Scott

rested alot between attempts to get into the chimney. Thrutchy awkward route
franhammond92 - Lead - 10/Nov/12

dont climb chimneys in short sleeves.
Dawn_K_B - 2nd - 10/Nov/12 with Fran Hammond

entertaining struggle to get into the chimney and still hard work once in.
snowy_woodruff - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Mem

Quite a thrutch.
Andrew Sloan - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/12 with Steve Grove

Graeme Hammond - Lead rpt - 13/Oct/12 with Ewan

Phil West - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/12 with Chris Tan

Jamiet297 - 2nd β - 29/Sep/12 with Sarah Welsh

Sarah Welsh - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12 with Jamie Trump

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/12

Sophie Gilbert - 2nd - 12/Aug/12 with Sasha

torsok - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12 with Nic

ryansb90 - 2nd dnf - 29/Jul/12 with Sophie Thompson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

A struggle to get up to the chimney, then strangely easy to get the crucial right hand foothold with short legs....! Frogged up the chimney. HS 4a? my a***
Babika - 2nd - 28/Jul/12 with Charles Leek

Hidden - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12

Excellent climb, real giggleworthy. Managed to do it in good style :-)
valentinesbabe - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Jack Drake, Charley Fell

Looks easy, crux getting into the chimney. Managed to get stuck! A good laugh!
Jackwd - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Angela Paul

Great fun!! Chicken-wing!!!
charley - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12 with JackD, Ange

Chris Hind - Lead - 08/Apr/12 with ash

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Sandbag! Damn good fun though.
armouredego - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Peter Elliott, Tom Parsons

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Feb/12

I now decided not to eat fry-up breakfast before climbing.
Kirill - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with Paul Bolton, Graham Dolman

Tony Kartawick - 2012

stingray_tara - 2nd O/S - 2012 with Ian Rickerby

mountaingoatgirl - Lead O/S - 21/Nov/11 with Nick Bean

buxtoncoffeelover - 2nd - 21/Nov/11

Very Awkward move into the chimney that took a few attempts to find. Once in the climb is simple and really fun. My first outdoor chimney and in the rain.
Ragingpossum - 2nd dog - 05/Nov/11

My first grit climb. The weather was rainy, but I removed jacket so it wouldn't get ruined, then sat on the top belay in the rain for an hour or so and got a cold. Certainly an interesting move getting into the chimney...
cbeard - Lead O/S - 05/Nov/11 with Will Bourne

spitfirerick - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/11

Green and thrutchy. Straight out of Yorkshire!
Lumbering Oaf - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/11 with Alan Mountford

Bit of a thrutch, hard work for a warm up!
hotfeet - Lead - 07/Oct/11 with Matthew

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Oct/11

Kap - 2nd β - 02/Oct/11

Calum Wadsworth - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11 with Harry, Sandra

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Kieran Myles

sgl - Lead - 20/Aug/11 with Susie

Happy to get this after a failed attempt many moons ago. Good climbing if you like wide cracks - strangely rewarding ;) VS 4c I reckon (4c for the moves getting established in to the chimney and moving up the initial section). Well protected, atleast as hard as jonathans chimney IMO.
CurlyStevo - Lead - Aug/11 with Kenny

andrea83 - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Grahams friend Rich

Couldn't get comfortable in the first chimney. Some good gear in there but did not have the guts to jam myself in at 7am and with an overwelming urge to wazz mi sen. A strong coffee is in order before my next attempt.
adam.wall - Lead dnf - 01/Jun/11 with Craig Taylor

Brown - Solo - 31/May/11 with Gabriel

Hidden - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/11

How does this get HS 4a, are you joking, this was harder than Left Edge. This route (Scarletts) is more VS 4c than HS 4a.
matthomas79 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/11

Jim Brownlow - 2nd - 16/Apr/11 with Liam O'Loughlin, Ben Burns

liamoloughlin - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/11

Messy! Not enough experience with chimney! Grr
jack89 - Lead dog - 28/Mar/11 with Matt J

Robin Warden - 2nd - 20/Mar/11

alasdair19 - 2011

Jim Malo - Lead dog - 27/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 27/Nov/10

quality climb!! extremly hard if facing left as i was, tames by large right foothold, very enjoyable
Tom Redmond - Lead β - 07/Nov/10 with Jake Young

Jake Young - 2nd O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Miriam, Tom Redmond

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Oct/10

First proper chimney, felt like i was going to get stuck at one point, but wiggled my shoulder blades and made it through. Midges distracting my belayer, slightly worrying.
AlexxelA - 2nd O/S - Oct/10 with Alex Williams

do this once gruilling felt like u were giving birth --with mark
philb - 26/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/10

Luuuuuke - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Ian

pabbage - 11/Aug/10

Just after a light shower - difficult to get established in the slimy chimney, put some significant dents in my helmet as squeezed in, gazed at the muddy final moves and bewildered by the less than easy to build belay. Never again!
samuel_w - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Found this quite hard going but it was a very warm humid day.
Creep_pea - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Walsh, Ed

mattyork2 - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Ruth Colston

RuthC - 2nd - 22/May/10 with Matt Maynard

Backed off. Spent a long time trying to get into first chimney. Chockstones were wet and slimey. Backed off so that second wouldn't be climbing in the dark. Will come back another day.
ptigga - Lead dnf - 21/May/10

Good route for my Gritstone apprenticeship! Not a thrutch if figure out the moves and put some trust in friction. Managed to cam my knees and feet in to do the chimney.
climbinmunkey - Lead O/S - 09/May/10 with Helen

nick ferro - 02/May/10

pwilkie - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

X-tremist - 2nd - 02/May/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/10

helios - 2nd - 25/Apr/10 with Mathew Cantrill

katyc - 2nd - 25/Apr/10

daveclarke5 - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Stephen

Hidden - 2010

masonwoods101 - 2010

decs - AltLd - 05/Oct/09 with Tom

Richie Rich - 2nd RP - 29/Aug/09 with Tony H

Martin Haworth - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Tony

Rich and I failed to lead but Martin did the job
Tony Holdsworth - 2nd O/S - 29/Aug/09 with Martin Haworth, Rich Cutsforth

Mr Wild - Solo - 16/Aug/09

Theeni - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Jon Leighton

Easy crack, a couple of trea truncks to hold on to.
ekaterina sigida - Lead - 2009 with Charlotte Wood

Mark Adams - 2nd - 20/Nov/08

used shunt
frume - TR O/S - 22/Oct/08 with Myself

Jim Slater - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Phil

Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH - Solo O/S - 20/Jul/08

sara n - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/08 with Andrea S

victim of mathematics - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Jon

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/08 with Victim of Maths

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/08

slacky - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/08

Failed warm up (will Come back)
Smeegan - Lead - Feb/08 with Owen

Matthallinan - Lead - Feb/08 with Jon Winter

Graeme Hammond - 2nd O/S - 27/Jan/08 with Greg Slee

Hidden - 2008

Hidden - 2nd dog - 03/Nov/07

MikeLeeds - Lead O/S - 03/Nov/07 with Mira Slavova

Anna Horrox - 2nd - Nov/07 with Clive Greenwood

clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - Nov/07 with Anna

howlingbaboon - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Chris FitzHugh

oliverthomp - TR O/S - 27/Apr/07

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/07 with AJ

Dad belaying
stevo smith - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/07

gethin_allen - Lead - 2007

Another James - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/06 with Kirsten M

SecretSquirrel - 2nd - 15/Oct/06 with steve

first route back after 6 weeks travelling - it was hard work!
Si dH - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/06 with Neil and Mark

horrible. grr.
baldcoder - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/06 with LR_Davidson

Mutl3y - Lead dnf - 02/May/06 with Iggy

RedFox - Lead O/S - 30/Apr/06 with Lindsay Riordan

Couldn't get established in the upper chimney without a rest on the rope. Probably would have weighted the rope again later if I wasn't wedged tight.
size9hex - Lead dog - Apr/06 with Tom Evans

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/06 with martina

Hidden - 2006

Still awkward, two years on....bloodied nose udging up.
Tobias at Home - Lead O/S - 13/Nov/05 with catt

total sandbag. tried to sit on the rope a few times but never actually went anywhere as i was stuck anyway. therefor an inadvertant clean second :-)
catt - 2nd O/S - 13/Nov/05 with Toby

Whitt - Lead RP - Jul/05 with Craig Woods

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/05

Failed was getting dark
markbenton - AltLd - 10/May/05 with madaxeman

Phil West - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/05 with Shaun Walby

Hidden - Lead O/S - Oct/04

A battle all the way
craigswoods - Lead β - Aug/04 with Rob Nason

Nicos - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/04 with mark richardson

dannyboy83 - Solo O/S - Sep/03

DerwentDiluted - Lead - 12/Apr/03 with Chris Pearson

Thrutchy
Siderunner - Lead O/S - 25/May/02 with Paul G

Stone Muppet - 2001

Peakology - Lead O/S - Jul/99 with Cat & Louise

Chalky Cat - 2nd O/S - Jul/99 with Dom Lou

Hidden - 2nd - May/99

Worth VS 4c for my money. But it was January....
Rog Wilko - Lead - Jan/99 with Debbie Wilkinson

David Qualtrough - 09/May/98

astrecks - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/94 with Rod

Hidden - Solo - 07/May/90

Andy Say - Solo - 17/Oct/89

mikej - Lead - 09/Jun/85 with Mike Byles

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SuperLee1985, hirving, richardw87, adam.wall, Davie Thomson

Voting
Total votes cast 162
hard VS1 of 57
VS6 of 57
easy VS43 of 57
hard HS3 of 57
HS3 of 57
easy HS1 of 57
hard S0 of 57
S0 of 57
easy S0 of 57
hard 4c0 of 55
4c0 of 55
easy 4c0 of 55
hard 4b0 of 55
4b6 of 55
easy 4b44 of 55
hard 4a3 of 55
4a2 of 55
easy 4a0 of 55
3 Stars3 of 50
2 Stars13 of 50
1 Star28 of 50
0 Stars4 of 50
Bag of .....2 of 50
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf