The slabby left arete is sweetly delicate and remains effectively unprotected - a couple of dubious small cams are available but you wouldn't want to trust them! Despite being low in the grade, it was a superb effort for its day and still requires a cool head. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Crew 1963
Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Ultimate E4 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
After a few headpoints this was an awesome solo!
after backing off before
Kavi, Sam McCarthy, Zoe, Tom Bennell
|Sam McCarthy||09/Jun||2nd rpt|
Strong onsite from jim.
Jimmy broomhead, mat lamb
|Neal Jobling||30/May||TR O/S||
Mailee, emma rowland, ben rowland
|Sam McCarthy||16/May||2nd O/S|
very happy to do this after eyeing it up for a while.
Pretty chuffed to have done this, will now avoid it at all cost... Thought it was all pretty straight forward for 5c until the very last break, where I took ages to commit to what I though was the hardest move.
USMC, Fran Hammond
Back to lead it sometime colder
Almost dark. 5 mins later and definitely wouldn't have done it.. One small cam 2/5 of the way up, prob OK though. Good to get it done on my first day on rock this year
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||15/Apr||Solo||
Nice evening. First wed evening outside of the 2015 season.
|Luke Dawson||06/Feb||Solo RP||
onsight on a gri gri then soloed a sweet route
Beautiful climbing, not brave enough to lead it
Great, would be easier to solo - the gear didn't inspire much confidence.
|C May||13/Sep/14||TR O/S|
|Bloke on a Rope||29/Mar/14||Lead dnf||
Was feeling quite good about this until i got to the gear at half height an saw how poor it is, i tried to place 3 differnt cams only to watch them slide down the rope of their own accord, which put me right off me stride! Managed to back climb slightly and drop onto the grass round the arete, think next time i would just go for the solo, less distractions.
Got just beyond the gear and my hands were too cold and I'd lost psyche, so I backed off.
|Andy Peak 1||03/Dec/13||Lead β||
Had a cheeky abbsail down the route and found one good pice of gear and two poor pieces, a littel regret i just didnt solo it! But i am still in one pice:-)
|Matthew Ferrier||13/Nov/13||Lead O/S||
Warm up. Sweet. Was climbing pretty balls-out at the top.
|Kim M||01/Oct/13||2nd O/S|
|Andy Moles||27/Sep/13||Lead RP||
2x toprope then led. One good-ish cam at half height.
No head to lead it, but the moves felt steady. Maybe in a few years...
|Harry Thorpe||23/Aug/13||2nd O/S|
Felt high and I didnt find any gear :( Climbing isnt too difficult though....
|Graeme Hammond||30/Apr/13||Solo RP||
Top roped easily clean a few times. Much easier than expected so went for the solo which was more gripping but OK. Better to do it this way than to never doing it at all or should I have "manned up" for the on-sight solo.
|Andrew Lodge||15/Apr/13||TR O/S||
Done in the dark, a great climb on a top rope and all the moves go OK but absolutely no gear.
really easy and steady to the very last move. couldn't see the move at all! downclimbed from two foot from the top back to the ground. surely that is harder than finishing it?! oops. no mats, friends, harness.
|Hannes B||09/Apr/13||Solo O/S||
2 pads and a mate
Fantastic route,but didnt really get any gear that would have caught a whipper so just had to hold my head and climb it!first ever E4 on lead and never managed an E3 so quite a jump from 2 to 4!
|Daniel Heath||01/Feb/13||Lead O/S||
Some near-disastrous route reading error near the top (swung round onto the steep face) but otherwise very straightforward.
|the power||03/Nov/12||TR O/S|
Felt fine having backed off the start a year or two ago. Really enjoyable and airy.
Was eyeing it up all day, decided to go for it and was so glad i did! Woop!!
|Dr Toph||08/Sep/12||Solo O/S||
Nice and steady, delicate all the way. Didnt feel too hard tho, guess its just my kind of route..
|Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH||15/Apr/12||Lead O/S|
Easy 5c .... with the rope in front of me, not trailing uselessly behind!
mr g walters
|belay bunny turned bad||26/Mar/12||Lead RP||
Ground up, second go after a silly slip low down.
Not as precarious as I was expecting.
|Jim Malo||27/Nov/11||TR O/S||
Glad I didn't solo or LP this. Still psyched to flash it.
one slip just after the gear, but soughted my life and got it second attempt. First E4.
|Phill Mitch||10/Jul/11||Solo β||
wanted to solo this for a while,had a spare half day so went down specialy.Did a few warm ups then tried first few moves 3 times before commiting.Got a bit spooked half way up but managed to keep it together, just.
|nick ferro||16/Apr/11||TR O/S||
Found it delicate.
|Tony Holdsworth||11/Apr/11||2nd O/S||
|harold walmsley||22/Mar/11||Solo RP|
|harold walmsley||08/Mar/11||TR O/S||
Found it OK (easier than its namesake at Helsby). Shouldn't have spoiled the onsight
Did this as my first E4 about a week after my first E3 and having never done an E2 looking back on it now i don't know what the hell i was thinking.
Briefly unsettling approaching the break. Got 2 pieces in, but one was only on 2 cams and the other dubious also. Fantastic line and climbing though. Just gotta keep calm...
Steve - PCC
Essentially a solo. For me the bad cams "protected" the rest of the route just after the crux at half height.
|Matt Bennett||15/Nov/09||Lead O/S||
Had bad hayfever, and even worse midges. Hastily retreated after this.
|Somerset swede basher||15/Mar/09||Solo O/S||
Katharine and Nick Payne
|Matt Fry||19/Oct/08||Lead β||
Excellent route. A small cam protects the crux at about half height.
|Mike Soulby||14/Apr/08||TR RP|
Seconded some one on this years ago.
Had bottled it and traversed off into fringe benefit a couple of years ago. Really enjoyed it today, crag to myself.
|Brian Rodgers||02/Jun/07||Lead O/S||
Decided i didn't like the look of it - after commiting to the route. Wasn't too bad once i regained my composure.
|Nick Taylor||08/Oct/06||Lead β|
Dave Potts & Mark Benton
|dan gibson||15/Apr/06||Lead O/S||
|Phill Mitch||??/2006||Lead O/S||
dave top roped it another day and said i could do it! he was right.just one smear move whilst laying away on the arete,next to the only gear,the rest is all in balance.
Nick Patrick, Matt Parkes, Ben Waller
By myself one night after work
|Smelly Fox||?/Mar/04||Lead O/S||
As tenuous as you'd expect
|adam carless||??/2001||TR O/S||
There was already a rope on it, someone offered me a go, and I was weak enough to accept. That's my excuse anyway.
someone from CUMC
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||28/Mar/97||Solo O/S|
toproped ok but didn't fancy leading it!
|craig h||?/Feb/96||Solo rpt|
Steve Dean, Terry Gifford, Chris Thorp, Pete Sutton
I'm sure that this used to be graded E3?
|James Moyle||?/Aug/94||TR O/S|
Jez, Ste O Dowd and Ruth were out that day.
|Chris the Tall||?/Jun/94||TR|
|Dave Musgrove||16/Feb/90||Lead O/S||
A great sunny winter's day. 12 routes led or soloed.
|Andy Say||17/Oct/89||Solo O/S|
|dominic lee||28/Jul/89||Solo O/S|
|Stoney Boy||01/Oct/88||Lead O/S||