L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
It started to go wrong by missing the ferry. We then ran into the stragglers of the Tour-De-France, which delayed us further...we then failed to make the hut the night before and slept in the car in the valley. Hiked 3hours to arrive 8:30am Mild rest, then on the route...we should have been fitter. The last pitches were a bit of a struggle and a bit of light rain 4 pitches from the end put the frighteners on me slightly. We found the best topo on the route, in a plastic bag on one of the pitches. It wasn't our best logistical effort. Still, it is a great peak, superb climbing and fantastic setting, highly recommended and will be well remembered for many reasons. It's a bit bigger than it looks on paper. :)
A wee film of a long held ambition to climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" on the spectacular Aiguille Dibona 3131m in the Ecrins. First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains in Europe. Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film and seeing if we made it to the top of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygToEMgjMYU
James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo
|Poco Loco||31/Jul/14||AltLd O/S||
Great route, superb rock. We made a deviation onto "the ethic of joy" route on the East face for a fun 6a alternative pitch.
David M, Bald Eagle
highlight of my climbing career. Strayed onto some of the 6a pitches from other routes at the top just to add a sting into the tail
Berthet/Boell combination as per the local guidebook, 13 pitches of amazing climbing on a fantastic peak.
|Ian JL||25/Jul/13||Lead O/S||
Andy Lovelady, Beth Frampton
Absolute classic! Started as for Madier with Berthet variation out to the right then came back with Boell route and somehow lost it near the top and ended up doing the much harder Livanos route. Long day as a three but one of the most memorable. ~9hrs from Soreiller hut!
James Kniffen, Will Beharrell
|Andrew Sloan||06/Sep/11||AltLd O/S|
|Martin Haworth||06/Sep/11||AltLd O/S||