|Berthet variant or classic S||D|
|450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further R to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to R hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge L and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on L (easy) for 50m then step up and R to belay (55m pitch). Traverse R slighly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse R for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay L for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and R back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on L: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top.|
Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.
L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937