Berthet variant or classic S*** D
[Breaking out right from madier route., 3 kb]450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further R to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to R hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge L and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on L (easy) for 50m then step up and R to belay (55m pitch). Traverse R slighly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse R for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay L for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and R back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on L: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top.
Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.
L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!).

Photo: Breaking out right from madier route. © Andrew Sloan
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 23 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

tradguy - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/15 with magda cavanna

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/15

It started to go wrong by missing the ferry. We then ran into the stragglers of the Tour-De-France, which delayed us further...we then failed to make the hut the night before and slept in the car in the valley. Hiked 3hours to arrive 8:30am Mild rest, then on the route...we should have been fitter. The last pitches were a bit of a struggle and a bit of light rain 4 pitches from the end put the frighteners on me slightly. We found the best topo on the route, in a plastic bag on one of the pitches. It wasn't our best logistical effort. Still, it is a great peak, superb climbing and fantastic setting, highly recommended and will be well remembered for many reasons. It's a bit bigger than it looks on paper. :)
mrmattwright - AltLd - 25/Jul/15 with Adrian Fletcher

A wee film of a long held ambition to climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" on the spectacular Aiguille Dibona 3131m in the Ecrins. First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains in Europe. Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film and seeing if we made it to the top of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link:
BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 31/Jul/14 with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo

Great route, superb rock. We made a deviation onto "the ethic of joy" route on the East face for a fun 6a alternative pitch.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with David M, Bald Eagle

Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 17/Jul/14 with Cath Sullivan

highlight of my climbing career. Strayed onto some of the 6a pitches from other routes at the top just to add a sting into the tail
JohnMetcalfe - 17/Jul/14 with Andy Wilson

Berthet/Boell combination as per the local guidebook, 13 pitches of amazing climbing on a fantastic peak.
davebrox - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Fiona

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Andy Lovelady, Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/13

Hidden - Lead - 23/Sep/12

Pero - AltLd - 28/Aug/12

Absolute classic! Started as for Madier with Berthet variation out to the right then came back with Boell route and somehow lost it near the top and ended up doing the much harder Livanos route. Long day as a three but one of the most memorable. ~9hrs from Soreiller hut!
da_cox - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with James Kniffen, Will Beharrell

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11

Excellent route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11 with Andy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

basvdploeg - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 2010

Calder - 09/Jul/09 with Mark

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Calder

Hidden - 2008

Gerard DANTEC - Lead - Jul/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Giorgiogents, Legs, jamie ward, pugilistswine, bedsforsleepypeople, Zoe Cockburn, the ant hill mob, vix, Malpractise, Ronan O Keeffe

Total votes cast 12
hard D+0 of 6
D+0 of 6
easy D+3 of 6
hard D2 of 6
D1 of 6
easy D0 of 6
hard D-0 of 6
D-0 of 6
easy D-0 of 6
3 Stars6 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S