Berthet variant or classic S*** D
[Where the grade IV climber is king for the day, 3 kb]450m, 12 pitches. Climb two easy pitches to belays at start of Madier route. Climb up through tunnel to belay. Continue for half a pitch then head R up crack to belay. Continue (one pitch) to arete. Option to go further R to Boell route or climb two pitches of "7 D'Un Coup", which requires trad gear. Both lead to R hand end of Boell ledge. Traverse ledge L and climb 5m down to belay on orange pillar. Climb couloir on L (easy) for 50m then step up and R to belay (55m pitch). Traverse R slighly downwards and climb chimney or blocks to belay below final tower. Many routes converge here and there are various ways to top. Traverse R for easiest line and follow arete. Or, stay L for choice of V (old pegs) or 6a (bolted) pitch to belay, then head up and R back to arete and belay. Easy until steep crack on L: climb to trad belay. Easy pitch to top. Take a selection of nuts and cams unless you are very comfortable on pitches of V.
L. Berthet, Eymard Sep/1937

Ticklists: Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!).

Photo: Where the grade IV climber is king for the day © Tarquin
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 18 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

A wee film of a long held ambition to climb the classic "Face Sud Classique" aka "Voie Berthet/Boell/Stofer" on the spectacular Aiguille Dibona 3131m in the Ecrins. First climbed by Angelo Dibona in 1913 and although of modest height, the Dibona has inspired generations of climbers and is surely one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountains in Europe. Anyway the entertainment was duly recorded so for anyone interested in viewing a short HD film and seeing if we made it to the top of this superb route and beautiful mountain then please use the following link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ygToEMgjMYU
BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 31/Jul/14 with James Pomeroy, David Martinez Majo

Great route, superb rock. We made a deviation onto "the ethic of joy" route on the East face for a fun 6a alternative pitch.
Poco Loco - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14 with David M, Bald Eagle

Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 17/Jul/14 with Cath Sullivan

Hidden - 17/Jul/14

Berthet/Boell combination as per the local guidebook, 13 pitches of amazing climbing on a fantastic peak.
davebrox - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Fiona

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/13 with Andy Lovelady, Beth Frampton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/13

Tarquin - Lead - 23/Sep/12

Pero - AltLd - 28/Aug/12

Absolute classic! Started as for Madier with Berthet variation out to the right then came back with Boell route and somehow lost it near the top and ended up doing the much harder Livanos route. Long day as a three but one of the most memorable. ~9hrs from Soreiller hut!
da_cox - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/12 with James Kniffen, Will Beharrell

Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11

Excellent route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/11 with Andy

Not entirely sure we followed the whole route as we probably went a little off route (onto harder ground) in the middle. ALso took ages as I am not what they call Alpine fit.
owrehleeoh - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with John Tomlinson, Steve Gandy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

basvdploeg - 2010

Calder - 09/Jul/09 with Mark

Diggler - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/09 with Calder

Hidden - 2008

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
pugilistswine, bedsforsleepypeople, Zoe Cockburn, the ant hill mob, vix, Malpractise, Ronan O Keeffe
Voting
Total votes cast 12
hard D+0 of 6
D+0 of 6
easy D+3 of 6
hard D2 of 6
D1 of 6
easy D0 of 6
hard D-0 of 6
D-0 of 6
easy D-0 of 6
3 Stars6 of 6
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