350m. New alpine grade: II 4 (80 ice crux). Ice climb made more interesting when in mixed conditions

Robert Mazars & Gaston Rebuffat 31/Jul/1967

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter.

calumhicks 16/Jun AltLd dnf

Bailed after crux pitch due to rapidly deteriorating weather and so much spindrift that it was often difficult to breath! Navigating back to the Torino was interesting in the white-out and snow covered tracks. One to come back for!

Hugh Simons 16/Jun AltLd dnf

Calum lead the first pitch, due to pretty poor weather and horrific spin drift avalanches we bailed after the 1st pitch. Conditions of the route seemed good though with plenty ice. One to return to!

Big Lee 26/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Second pitch was totally dry. The pitch felt like V,6 on second. Climbed four pitches then ab'ed from where the route broadened into the wide couloir. Continuing to the summit didn't look much fun, as the cloud had dropped right down.

robgixer 26/Mar/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Dec/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 29/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 29/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 21/Sep/14 -
DigitalSteak 08/Sep/14 AltLd dnf

First crux has fallen down leaving very loose, terrible quality rock. We ran away.

Stuart Johnston 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Dry but lots of fun. Just made it from first bin to last from torino hut.

with Stephan, Misha Gopaul
Sam Simpson 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Good Outing mostly easy neve, few ice steps, and nice cruisy mixed section. Slog back up to the midi has not got easier!

Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 01/Sep/14 2nd dnf
with Al Docherty
Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/14 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd
John Carney 14/Dec/13 -

Gully quite dry, did a variation with short sectons at M5/M6. High winds and cloud - plenty of stonefall and other debris during climb and descent.

with Adam George
frost 22/Mar/13 AltLd

mixed all the way.rapped back to the skis from the top of the gully.

with M Thomas, D Almond
niallsash ?/Jan/13 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
Hidden 16/Jul/08 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hugh Simons, Hidden, kobbenes, Hidden, buffalo606, alexm198, Hidden, monsteratt, Hidden, benclimbing, ndraper1, stanleynkk, Hidden, Timothy Miller, Hidden, tscoobydoo, teos
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