Orkney Islands > (Old Man of) Hoy >
 
South Face** E2 5b

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[Refined and elegant climbing well away from the Original Route tourist path., 4 kb]5 pitches. A fine way to avoid the polish and chalk on The Original Route and maximise the chance of sunstroke and adventure. The route description in GL's Scottish Rock has several features in the wrong order, so instead: P1: As for Original Route. P2: Climb the corner above, up a short sandy wall to a flake, up this to a ledge and walk along this for 12m to belay at it's obvious end, kicking fulmars off as you go. P3: Directly up past a rotting peg, then trend left to belay in on a big ledge below a vulgar cleft. P4: Grovel up the cleft through 3 flared bulges to a 4th bulge with a green jamming crack, battle this then step right (useful belay) to more of the same cleft. Up this to the grass haven and kick steps to belay on blocks at the top. P5: Step left from blocks onto a short wall, pull over the lip and move right and up the obvious chimney/corner, finish past numerous death blocks to the Original Route belay.
Joe Brown and Ian McNaught Davis 09/Jul/1967

Photo: Refined and elegant climbing well away from the Original Route tourist path. © Fiend
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Led pitches 1 + 2 together and 4. Very atmospheric up some spectacularly sculptured rock. A route that deserves more ascents. Fulmar rating: Repugnant hoards.
henwardian - AltLd O/S - 16/Jun/13 with Fraser-with-the-beard

Hidden - Lead - Jun/86

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Total votes cast 4
hard E30 of 2
E30 of 2
easy E30 of 2
hard E20 of 2
E22 of 2
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