Climbs 240
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 1200m a.s.l

As ever an atmospheric day in the slate quarries © James Rushforth

Crag features

Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.
This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.
The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.
The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.
Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).
The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

Access Advice

The quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing is offically not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However climbing is tolerated if climbers generally keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who is concerned that continued use by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff. BMC advice remains unchanged -please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Llanberis Slate (2011)
North Wales Rock (2006)
Slate (1992)
The Slate Wiki
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
to be honest, i thought i`d just leave them till you had finished all the alterations etc, as there were so many update requests ;-)
chrisdavies - 05/Mar/15
As our recent new routes in Australia seem destined to remain eternally in the "unsorted" area it might be useful to note the following: The routes Lucky Break, Cape York Traverse, Cape York Crack, High Stakes, A Brucie Bonus and Cape York Slab are all located in a new area called Cape York Level that is best reached by climbing the easy route "Cape York Approach" that starts from Darwin Level about 40 m R of the obvious big Hydro tunnel. Kata Tjuta Rib is located on the Ayer's Rock Level between Ayer Head and Ayers and Graces.
harold walmsley - 13/Jan/15
It is worth noting that 2 of our recent new routes from the Cape York Level have no lower off. Cape York Traverse because the traversing means that lowering off would miss the Cape York Level level and Brucie Bonus because the rock at the very top was a bit doubtful. For these routes you have to top out (or for Brucie Bonus you can finish at the High Stakes lower off). If you top out there is a 2 ring-bolt ab point on a small rock island that gets you back down to the Cape York Level about 25 m R (looking in) of the Brucie Bonus exit or about 40 m R of the Cape York Traverse belay bolts. There is also a 2 ring bolt ab point back down to the Darwin Level at the top of P1 of Cape York Crack.
harold walmsley - 15/Sep/14
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 tasmania 
2Arnie Meets the Swamp Monster
-
E1 5a  
3Toilet Trouble
-
E2 5c  
4Stinky Boots
-
E2 5b  
 billabong 
6Great bores of today7a **9
7The Wow WowE4 6a **3
8Darkness Visible
-
E4 6a  
 THE ROGNON, lower tier 
10Joie De Vivre
-
HS 4a  
11Theftus Maximus
-
E1 5b 2
12Little Mo
-
HS 4a  
 the rognon, upper tier 
14Abattoir BluesE2 5c *5
15Genital Persuasion
-
E3 5c 8
16Single Factor
-
E2 5c *4
17Second Thoughts
-
VS 4b  
 LOONING THE TUBE AREA 
19AfterburnerV5 2
20Puddy Kat5a 41
21Just for FunE2 5c *130
22The Burning6b+ *191
23The Deceptive Dyke5c *348
2410666b 33
25N.E. SpurE3 5c **1
26Loony ToonsE3 5c *11
27Brief EncounterHVS 5a *123
28Astroman from the Planet ZzzoinkE3 6a  
29Planet Zzzoink AreteE3 5c  
30The Man Who Fell to EarthE2 5c 3
31Donald Duck6c *55
32Gadaffi Duck6b **468
33Sad Man Who's SaneVS 4c *475
34U.B.LVS 4c 385
35Hyperfly6a+ *162
36Turn of the CenturyE2 5c **192
37Maximum Tariff6b *343
38Buffalo Smashed in Head Jump
-
E2 5c **18
39Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed5c *169
40Technical Hamster6c 14
41Technical Hamster DanceHVS 4b 2
42Dried-Mouth Frog HSHS 97
43Swan HunterE4 6b **25
44Goose CreatureE3 6a **552
45Menai ViceE4 6b/6c **24
46HysterectomyE6 5c *6
47Looning the TubeE1 5a ***1448
48Bise-Mon-CulE2 5c **72
49RunupVS 4a 2
50Zzzooming The TubeE3 6a **22
51Pruning the TubeE2 5c *27
52Exhuming the TubeE3 5c **9
 THE RAILTRACK 
54Mad on the MetroE4 5c *10
55Gerboa Racer
-
E4 5c  
56Fuck Les Clotures5c *17
57A Selfish Act of LoonacyE3 6a * 
58The Fat Controller6b *19
59Scarface Claw6b *40
60Red Throated Diver6b+ **49
612nd Class PassengerE2 5c *31
62Sleeper6c 12
63Crazy Train6c **25
64A Grand day out6b **86
65Cartoon Lesbian6a 39
66Ancestral Vices
-
E5 6b 9
67Off the Beaten Track
-
E3 5c ***50
68Here to Stay, Gone Tomorrow
-
E4 6b 3
69Uncle Nick's Broken toeE5 6b  
70Between Here and Now
-
E4 6a *8
71The Toms Approach
-
E4 5c 1
72Now or Never NeverE5 5c  
73Psychodelicate7c **1
74The Ghan6b+ *2
 THE SALT PANS 
76The Australian6b **8
77Jenny WrenVD  
78The Stream of Obscenity7a 6
79Kosciusko
-
VS 4b  
 DOWN under`pans level 
81Zut Alors6c+ **5
82Y Rhaffwr6b+ *4
83Stretched to the Limit6c+ *2
84The Rack6b+ *2
85Narcolepsy7a+  
 ABOVE THE RAILS 
87Sport 4 All5a 256
88Kinder Surprise5a 435
89Surprise Surprise6a *488
90Shorty's Dyno6a *144
91Orangutang Overhang6a+ **407
92Cyber World Sl@te Heads6a+ *213
93Steps of Glory5a **530
 THE SIDINGS 
95Above the Line
-
HVS 4c 8
96Puffing BillyS 4a 8
97Not known6a+ 22
98Glass AxeE5 7a *6
99'N' Gauge6a *281
100PointlessE1 5b 2
101Side line4a *338
102Derailed4a 247
103Thomas the Tank4a *261
104Rack and pin5c *330
105Sodor6a *488
106The Mallard5c *459
107The polar express5c *322
108Ivor the Engine5a *375
109Gordon3+ *307
110The Level crossing5c *89
111Those who climb clearly marked projects...5c *206
112Choo Choo5c *192
113Hogwarts Express5c *168
114The Railway children6a 193
115In Loving Memory6a+ **115
 FRUITBAT LEVEL 
117Solitude Standing
-
E3 6a 3
118Eric the Fruitbat
-
E2 5c 3
119Harder Than It Looks6a 16
120M.I.L. Arete
-
E1 5b 57
121Genevive
-
E2 5c 6
122Pontiac AreteVS 4c 11
123Stretched Limo
-
E2 5c 4
124Gymnastic Fantastic6c+ *12
125Slatebite7a **43
126The Christening of New Boots
-
E1 5b 1
127Rock Athletes Day Off
-
HVS 5b  
 ZIPPY LEVEL 
129Jepp knave7b *2
130Last Chance For a Slow DanceE3 5b 2
131In On The Kill TakerE4 6b 1
132The Beanstalk .7a **20
133And a Pen Please
-
HVS 5a 6
134Boulevard of Broken Dreams7a+ *9
135Rastaman Vibrations Direct FinishE1 5c *1
136Rastaman Vibration
-
E2 6a 31
137Razorback
-
HVS 5a 92
138Putting on Ayres
-
E4 6c 4
139Feeling Rusty?6a+ 107
140Zippy's First Acid Trip
-
E1 5c 21
141Ziplock7b **5
142Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom!6a *22
143Second's Chance
-
VS 4b 4
144Cross Eyed Tammy
-
HVS 5a 2
145Resurrection ShuffleE4 6b/7a * 
146The Samba DanceE2 5c 4
147Pulverised7b *3
148De nouement7a+ *5
 The Skyline Level 
150Digital DelectationHVS 5a **109
151Good Afternoon Constable
-
VS 4c 40
152DolmenHVS 5a 17
153MenhirVS 4c 11
154The Skyline Club.E1 5c **40
155AntiquityE1 5a 9
156Act NaturallyVS 4b *130
157Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth !6a **57
158Ronald Reagan meets Doctor StrangeloveE2 5b *29
159Lindy Lou
-
HVS 5a 3
160Plastic Soldier6a **381
161Clash of the Titans6a **273
162The DreamingE1 5b 1
163Mad Dog of the WestVS 5a **197
164The Methane MonsterE1 5c 8
165Binwomen
-
VS 4b 15
166Up the Garden Path
-
S 46
167Billy Two Tokes
-
E1 5a 19
168Youthslayer
-
E2 5b 1
169SlabSlayer6a+ 11
170Harri Bach Llanrug6a *73
171Rock Yoga7a *27
172Put it on the Slate, Waiter
-
E4 5c *1
173Toe be or not Toe be...7b *7
 THE GORBALS LEVEL 
175T time traverseV4 1
176Mynd am Aur7a *16
177Slab Rog6b+ ***39
178The Olympic Torch6b+ **15
179The Shining
-
VS 4c 5
180Mister Blister7a *3
181Men at Work
-
E3 6a **10
182The North Face of the Aga
-
E3 6a **2
183Sprint Finish
-
6a *8
184Youthanasia
-
E1 5b  
185See You BruceE3 5b *35
186Glasgow Kiss7b+ **5
187The Gorbals
-
E4 6a **20
188Slabaholics Anonymous7a+ **5
189Black Daisies For The Bride
-
E5 6b 1
190Slabology6c+ *19
191Tennent's Creek
-
E2 5b  
192Fetzer
-
E2 5b  
193Franzia
-
E2 5b  
194Turkey Trot
-
VS 4c 2
195A Swarm of Green Parrots
-
VS 4c 1
 ALICE SPRINGS LEVEL 
197Koala Bare
-
HVS 4c  
198Men of LeisureE4 6a *8
199No feart of the boaby6b+ **10
200Celtic Blood6a *16
201Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?)
-
HVS 4c  
202Captain Condom and the Mothers of Prevention
-
E3 6b 2
203Eyes Wide ShutE5 6b *2
204Goblin PartyVS 4b *17
205Alice Springs1  
 ayers rock 
207Ayers and Graces6c+ **1
208Ayer Head6c+ *1
 THE DARWIN LEVEL 
210Room with a view7b **2
211Another Wasted Journey
-
E1 4c  
212Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Two!5c  
213Dont Look Back in BangorE3 5b  
 UPPER DINORWIC 
215Big Thursday
-
XS abo 2
 THE G`DAY LEVEL 
217Jack the Ripper
-
E4 6a  
218The Koala Brothers6b 5
219G'Day Arete6c ***57
220Hogiau Pen Garett6a+ *37
221Walk this way7a **13
 THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL 
223The Garett Slide4a 8
224Sylvanian Waters
-
E2 5c **1
225Wave Rock6c **6
226Impact Zone7a **3
227Road to Botany Bay7a *6
 VILCABAMBA 
229Not quite snakes and laddersHVS 16
230Where the Green Ants DreamE5 6a  
231Birthday Girl7b * 
 THE FAR OUT LEVEL 
233Atticus Finch6c 2
234Cirith Ungol7a+ **3
235Ride like the wind!6b+ 4
236To infinity and beyond!6b **5
237The Curious Incident6a 9
238Far From the Madding Crowd
-
E4 6a * 
 EAST WALL 
240The Serpent Vein
-
8b *** 
241Buffer in a Crack Hous
-
XS  
 the far away toplevel 
243Wish You Were Here7c *** 
 link ups 
245A Grand Day Out (Link Up)6b **55
246West Face of Australia (Link Up)E1 5b **10
247West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up)E3 6a ** 
248West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up)E4 6a ** 
 temple of boom area 
250Dekophobia7a 1
251Son of RabbitE2 5c  
252Temple of Boom5.9  
253My Secret Garden7b 1
 cape york slab area 
255Cape York SlabVS 4b/c 5
256Cape York Crack6a+ 1
257Cape York Traverse6a+ *1
258Spicy Little Octopus6a+ **2
259Kata Tjuta Rib6a+ *1
260High Stakes6b+ *1
261Lucky Break6c+ **3
262A Brucie Bonus6b *2
263Cape York Approach4b 1
264BarkerV4 1
 as yet unsorted new routes!! 
266As Yet Unnamed5c 14
267Illegal SmeagolVS 4a 1
268Where is My Mind *E6 6b *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies