Australia

Climbs 239 – Rocktype Slate – Altitude 1200m a.s.l – Faces ?

Crag features
Marked as "Garret" on OS maps.

This is the biggest of all the quarried holes, with the most levels, so it does take a while to get your bearings, especially as there are many different access points, inc..various tunnels.

The rock quality does vary accross the many levels and areas, but some very good slate can been found here.

Access notes
Reached from Bus Stop Quarry, continuing around the path, the main access is gained just before you drop down to dali`s hole,on the main path, by hopping the gate on the left, 100 yards after going through the swing gate. Head up the three levels in front of you untill you reach the `looning the tube` level. from here, you get a good vantage point to asess where you want to go.

The steps off to the right as you reach this level will take you up to eastern Australia levels.

Go back down one level, and walk through the right hand tunnel, (headtorch handy),and take the r/hand spur inside, this will bring you out onto a slightly loose but ok scree path where you can gain access to (Great Bores of Today, and The Wow Wow).

The other way to access these routes along with the lower areas of Aus, would be to walk past Dali`s Wall, two levels down, and find the tight squeeze entrance to the lowest of the tunnels, enter at your own risk, it seams ok, and it`s been like that for some time now!!!

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), Llanberis Slate (2011), North Wales Rock (2006), Slate (1992), The Slate Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 TASMANIA  
2Arnie Meets the Swamp MonsterE1 5a  
3Toilet TroubleE2 5c  
4Stinky BootsE2 5b  
 BILLABONG  
6Great bores of today7a **8
7The Wow WowE4 6a **2
8Darkness VisibleE4 6a  
 THE ROGNON, LOWER TIER  
10Joie De VivreHS 4a  
11Theftus MaximusE1 5b 2
12Little MoHS 4a  
 THE ROGNON, UPPER TIER  
14Abattoir BluesE2 5c *5
15Genital PersuasionE3 5c 8
16Single FactorE2 5c *4
17Second ThoughtsVS 4b  
 LOONING THE TUBE AREA  
19AfterburnerV5 2
20Puddy Kat5a 40
21Just for FunE2 5c *125
22The Burning6b+ *177
23The Deceptive Dyke5c *309
2410666b 32
25N.E. SpurE3 5c **1
26Loony ToonsE3 5c *9
27Brief EncounterHVS 5a *113
28Astroman from the Planet ZzzoinkE3 6a  
29Planet Zzzoink AreteE3 5c  
30The Man Who Fell to EarthE2 5c 3
31Donald Duck6c *47
32Gadaffi Duck6b **417
33Sad Man Who's SaneVS 4c *444
34U.B.LVS 4c 359
35Hyperfly6a+ *139
36Turn of the CenturyE2 5c **157
37Maximum Tariff6b *303
38Buffalo Smashed in Head JumpE2 5c **17
39Dried-Mouth Sesame Seed5c *165
40Technical Hamster6c 14
41Technical Hamster DanceHVS 4b 1
42Dried-Mouth Frog HSHS 94
43Swan HunterE4 6b **24
44Goose CreatureE3 6a **472
45Menai ViceE4 6b/6c **24
46HysterectomyE6 5c *5
47Looning the TubeE1 5a ***1245
48Bise-Mon-CulE2 5c **51
49RunupVS 4a 1
50Zzzooming The TubeE3 6a **21
51Pruning the TubeE2 5c *26
52Exhuming the TubeE3 5c **7
 THE RAILTRACK  
54Mad on the MetroE4 5c *10
55Gerboa RacerE4 5c  
56Fuck Les Clotures5c *16
57A Selfish Act of LoonacyE3 6a * 
58The Fat Controller6b *19
59Scarface Claw6b *37
60Red Throated Diver6b+ **46
612nd Class PassengerE2 5c *30
62Sleeper6c 12
63Crazy Train6c **21
64A Grand day out6b **81
65Cartoon Lesbian6a 35
66Ancestral VicesE5 6b 9
67Off the Beaten TrackE3 5c ***46
68Here to Stay, Gone TomorrowE4 6b 3
69Uncle Nick's Broken toeE5 6b  
70Between Here and NowE4 6a *8
71The Toms ApproachE4 5c 1
72Now or Never NeverE5 5c  
73Psychodelicate7c **1
74The Ghan6b+ *2
 THE SALT PANS  
76The Australian6b **8
77Jenny WrenVD  
78The Stream of Obscenity7a 6
79KosciuskoVS 4b  
 DOWN UNDER`PANS LEVEL  
81Zut Alors6c+ **4
82Y Rhaffwr6b+ *4
83Stretched to the Limit6c+ *2
84The Rack6b+ *2
85Narcolepsy7a+  
 ABOVE THE RAILS  
87Sport 4 All5a 228
88Kinder Surprise5a 393
89Surprise Surprise6a *442
90Shorty's Dyno6a *125
91Orangutang Overhang6a+ **355
92Cyber World Sl@te Heads6a+ *192
93Steps of Glory5a **476
 THE SIDINGS  
95Above the LineHVS 4c 8
96Puffing BillyS 4a 8
97Not known6a+ 16
98Glass AxeE5 7a *6
99'N' Gauge6a *243
100PointlessE1 5b 2
101Side line4c *298
102Derailed4a 220
103Thomas the Tank4a 235
104Rack and pin5c *301
105Sodor6a *446
106The Mallard5c *405
107The polar express5c *281
108Ivor the Engine5a *328
109Gordon3+ *273
110The Level crossing5c *73
111Those who climb clearly marked projects...5c *181
112Choo Choo5c *172
113Hogwarts Express5c *149
114The Railway children6a 177
115In Loving Memory6a+ **108
 FRUITBAT LEVEL  
117Solitude StandingE3 6a 3
118Eric the FruitbatE2 5c 3
119Harder Than It Looks6a 13
120M.I.L. AreteE1 5b 54
121GeneviveE2 5c 5
122Pontiac AreteVS 4c 10
123Stretched LimoE2 5c 3
124Gymnastic Fantastic6c+ *12
125Slatebite7a **40
126The Christening of New BootsE1 5b 1
127Rock Athletes Day OffHVS 5b  
 ZIPPY LEVEL  
129Jepp knave7b *2
130Last Chance For a Slow DanceE3 5b 2
131In On The Kill TakerE4 6b 1
132The Beanstalk .7a **20
133And a Pen PleaseHVS 5a 5
134Boulevard of Broken Dreams7a+ *8
135Rastaman Vibrations Direct FinishE1 5c *1
136Rastaman VibrationE2 6a 28
137RazorbackHVS 5a 84
138Putting on AyresE4 6c 4
139Feeling Rusty?6a+ 94
140Zippy's First Acid TripE1 5c 19
141Ziplock7b **4
142Indiana Jasmine And The Topple Of Doom!6a *20
143Second's ChanceVS 4b 4
144Cross Eyed TammyHVS 5a 2
145Resurrection ShuffleE4 6b/7a * 
146The Samba DanceE2 5c 4
147Pulverised7b *3
148De nouement7a+ *5
 THE SKYLINE LEVEL  
150Digital DelectationHVS 5a **100
151Good Afternoon ConstableVS 4c 39
152DolmenHVS 5a 15
153MenhirVS 4c 9
154The Skyline Club.E1 5c **39
155AntiquityE1 5a 8
156Act NaturallyVS 4b *108
157Ruby Marlee meets Dr Holingsworth !6a **56
158Ronald Reagan meets Doctor StrangeloveE2 5b *27
159Lindy LouHVS 5a 3
160Plastic Soldier6a **319
161Clash of the Titans6a **241
162The DreamingE1 5b 1
163Mad Dog of the WestVS 5a **155
164The Methane MonsterE1 5c 7
165BinwomenVS 4b 15
166Up the Garden PathS 41
167Billy Two TokesE1 5a 19
168YouthslayerE2 5b  
169SlabSlayer6a+ 11
170Harri Bach Llanrug6a *67
171Rock Yoga7a *21
172Put it on the Slate, WaiterE4 5c *1
173Toe be or not Toe be...7b *7
 THE GORBALS LEVEL  
175T time traverseV4 1
176Mynd am Aur7a *8
177Slab Rog6b+ ***34
178The Olympic Torch6b+ **12
179The ShiningVS 4c 4
180Mister Blister7a *3
181Men at WorkE3 6a **10
182The North Face of the AgaE3 6a **2
183Sprint Finish6a *4
184YouthanasiaE1 5b  
185See You BruceE3 5b *32
186Glasgow Kiss7b+ **5
187The GorbalsE4 6a **16
188Slabaholics Anonymous7a+ **4
189Black Daisies For The BrideE5 6b 1
190Slabology6c+ *13
191Tennent's CreekE2 5b  
192FetzerE2 5b  
193FranziaE2 5b  
194Turkey TrotVS 4c 1
195A Swarm of Green ParrotsVS 4c  
 ALICE SPRINGS LEVEL  
197Koala BareHVS 4c  
198Men of LeisureE4 6a *7
199No feart of the boaby6b+ **10
200Celtic Blood6a *15
201Flying Death Fin (or is it Dutch?)HVS 4c  
202Captain Condom and the Mothers of PreventionE3 6b 1
203Goblin PartyVS 4b *16
204Alice Springs1  
 AYERS ROCK  
206Ayers and Graces6c+ **1
207Ayer Head6c+ *1
 THE DARWIN LEVEL  
209Room with a view7b **2
210Another Wasted JourneyE1 4c  
211Easy Routes Can Have Bolts Two!5c  
212Dont Look Back in BangorE3 5b  
 UPPER DINORWIC  
214Big ThursdayXS abo 2
 THE G`DAY LEVEL  
216Jack the RipperE4 6a  
217The Koala Brothers6b 4
218G'Day Arete6c ***49
219Hogiau Pen Garett6a+ *33
220Walk this way7a **11
 THE BOTANY BAY LEVEL  
222The Garett Slide4a 8
223Sylvanian WatersE2 5c **1
224Wave Rock6c **6
225Impact Zone7a **2
226Road to Botany Bay7a *6
 VILCABAMBA  
228Not quite snakes and laddersHVS 15
229Where the Green Ants DreamE5 6a  
230Birthday Girl7b * 
 THE FAR OUT LEVEL  
232Atticus Finch6c 2
233Cirith Ungol7a+ **3
234Ride like the wind!6b+ 4
235To infinity and beyond!6b **4
236The Curious Incident6a 8
237Far From the Madding CrowdE4 6a * 
 EAST WALL  
239The Serpent Vein8b *** 
240Buffer in a Crack HousXS  
 THE FAR AWAY TOPLEVEL  
242Wish You Were Here7c *** 
 LINK UPS  
244A Grand Day Out (Link Up)6b **43
245West Face of Australia (Link Up)E1 5b **10
246West Face of Australia Direct (Link Up)E3 6a ** 
247West Face of Australia Super Direct (Link Up)E4 6a ** 
 TEMPLE OF BOOM AREA  
249Dekophobia7a  
250Son of RabbitE2 5c  
251Temple of Boom5.9  
252My Secret Garden7b 1
 CAPE YORK SLAB AREA  
254Cape York SlabVS 4b/c 4
255Cape York Crack6a+ 1
256Cape York Traverse6a+ *1
257Spicy Little Octopus6a+ **2
258Kata Tjuta Rib6a+ *1
259High Stakes6b+ *1
260Lucky Break6c+ **3
261A Brucie Bonus6b *2
262Cape York Approach4b 1
263BarkerV4 6b 1
 AS YET UNSORTED NEW ROUTES!!  
265As Yet Unnamed5c 14
266Illegal Smeagol *VS 4a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer chrisdavies

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Please note that the following routes, which are currently listed as in the Cape York Slab Area, are actually elsewhere (correct areas in brackets): Spicy Little Octopus (G'day Level), Kata Tjuta Rib (Ayers Rock), Barker (Gorbals Level) and Cape York Approach (Darwin Level). Also the "Far Away Top Level" is the same as the Darwin Level so these two should be merged.
harold walmsley - 28/May/15
to be honest, i thought i`d just leave them till you had finished all the alterations etc, as there were so many update requests ;-)
chrisdavies - 05/Mar/15
As our recent new routes in Australia seem destined to remain eternally in the "unsorted" area it might be useful to note the following: The routes Lucky Break, Cape York Traverse, Cape York Crack, High Stakes, A Brucie Bonus and Cape York Slab are all located in a new area called Cape York Level that is best reached by climbing the easy route "Cape York Approach" that starts from Darwin Level about 40 m R of the obvious big Hydro tunnel. Kata Tjuta Rib is located on the Ayer's Rock Level between Ayer Head and Ayers and Graces.
harold walmsley - 13/Jan/15
It is worth noting that 2 of our recent new routes from the Cape York Level have no lower off. Cape York Traverse because the traversing means that lowering off would miss the Cape York Level level and Brucie Bonus because the rock at the very top was a bit doubtful. For these routes you have to top out (or for Brucie Bonus you can finish at the High Stakes lower off). If you top out there is a 2 ring-bolt ab point on a small rock island that gets you back down to the Cape York Level about 25 m R (looking in) of the Brucie Bonus exit or about 40 m R of the Cape York Traverse belay bolts. There is also a 2 ring bolt ab point back down to the Darwin Level at the top of P1 of Cape York Crack.
harold walmsley - 15/Sep/14
The "Down under Pans" level can be approached from Looning the Tube or Railtrack areas by traversing under Railtrack. From Upper Australia it is easier to traverse the Fruitbat level, descend to Salt Pans and continue down the scree for one level.
harold walmsley - 17/Apr/14