Pen Trwyn

Climbs 287 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DUMBELL FLYER  
2Green Flash5c 63
3The Seagull Has Landed7b 2
4The Apostle7a+ 9
5Hom Rescue6b *55
6The Graduate6b *64
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *10
8Ring Peace7b+ *1
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *7
10The Breck Road7a+ *4
11Tales of No Power7a+ *17
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **21
13The Mask7b+ *13
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a 3
15Ace of Wands7b *3
16The Damage Religion7b+ *4
17Snakebite7b  
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *4
19Tomorrow People7c **17
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **3
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *30
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *47
 MUMBO JUMBO  
24Lizzy Askins7a+ 1
25The Fly7b+ *4
26Parting Shot6c+ *9
27Brothers in Arms6c **43
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **172
29Tony's Route6a+ *50
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *96
31Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish6b 3
32Fears for Tears6c *46
33Fears For Beers6c+ 1
34Shadows and Lights7b *1
35Pink and Black6c *13
36Purple Tight Fright6c 4
37The Triad6b+ *13
38Taipan7b+ *4
39Split Infinity6b+ 23
40Simon Says8a **5
41Split Infinity Direct6c+ 2
 MAYFAIR  
43NostradamusE5 6a 1
44King KrankE5 6b **40
45Body Torque7b+ *20
46Body Torque Direct7c **18
47Axle Attack7a+ ***246
48Bloodsports7b ***131
49The Bloods7a+ **213
50Blood Lust7c *4
51Contusion6c **369
52Contusion Extension6c+ ***27
53Senile Penile Extension7b+ *15
54Mayfair7a+ **158
55Julio Juvenito7a **92
56Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b *5
57Harry the Clamp7a+ *21
58Master Plan8a+ ***2
59The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***14
60Masterclass7c+ ***3
61Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
62Oyster8a ***2
63The Bearded Clam7a+ ***48
64Reader's Wives7a+ ***5
65Needle in the Groove7c **9
66RuptureE5 6c **1
67RaptureE4 6b **15
68Plagued by Fools7b+ **15
69Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***105
70Wall of BlutesE3 6a *7
71Conner's FollyE1 5b **97
72Just for Kicks7a *3
73Burslem Boys6c+ *12
 HANGING ROCK  
75The Wall Of Goutes6b 3
76Slouching Towards Bethlehem7b **3
77De Torquemada7b+ **1
78The Picnic7b+ ** 
79Jerusalem is Lost7a **9
80Perthy Thrower6a 6
 THE CUTAWAY  
82Half Man, Half Beard7a *27
83The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
84Rock Lobster8a **3
85Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **6
86John Paul and the Vatican 77c **6
87Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ * 
 TESTAMENT TO PURE GOLD  
89Testament6c+ **111
90Talisman7a *19
91Touchstone6c+ **21
92Confuse the Aardvark7b  
93Jungle JiveE2 5c 2
94Bored Games7a+ *5
95Aardvark StartV6 **5
96Norman DirectV7 **3
97Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+ *1
98Norman's Wisdom6c+ **65
99Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *25
100Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6 5
101The Lyon King7a+ *12
102LipstickE5 F6c * 
103ItE2 5b *139
104Gold DiggerE2 5c 20
105Precious MetalE1 5b **291
106Midas TouchE4 6a *3
107Magical Ring7a+ **24
108Billy The Fish7c+ 1
109Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **17
110Pot of Gold6c+ *4
111Pure Gold6c+ **35
112Capturing the Coelacanth7b **13
113Love Over GoldE3 6a *23
114AfterthoughtHVS 5a *2
115Goldeneye7b+  
116ZigHVS 5a 3
 PLUMBLINE  
118Wings of Perception7b+ ** 
119Gold RushE6 6b ***6
120PlumblineE3 5c ***193
121Scary CanaryE5 6a ***42
122Really scary canaryE5 6a **1
123FlakeawayE5 6b **15
124ZagHVS 5a 2
125The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
126Plumbline TraverseV5 **19
 QUICKSILVER  
128Hot ClubE4 6a *3
129Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **78
130SussudioE3 6a *12
131ProspectorsE4 6a *10
132Price of GoldE4 6b **16
133Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
134Quicksilver7a ***81
135The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***7
136The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a 6
 FIREFLY  
138Private InvestigationsE5 6b *8
139Too Low for ZeroE3 2
140KlondikeE3 6a **52
141Pocket CityE3 6a **32
142SourdoughE4 6a *6
143Sourdough DirectE5 6b * 
144Iron in My Soul6c+ *5
145Solid GoldE3 6a **72
146Captain Fingers7a+ **25
147FireflyE3 5c ***108
148Mr. Chips7a **67
149You've had Your Chips7b **18
150After the Gold Rush6c *13
151The Bar Spangled Banner6c *2
152Silver Surfer6c+ *35
153Cage full of Budgies7a 6
 EXCURSION  
155No Bark, No Drill7c ** 
156Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
157No Arc, No Bark7a+ **45
158Excursion Direct6c+ **68
159Call It BlackE4 6a *10
160ExcursionE2 5b ***195
161The Arc of EternityE4 6a **13
162Swift GundercutE5 6a * 
163The VisionaryE3 6a **38
164Clear White LightE3 6a **43
165Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *3
166BeaverbrookE5 6a *2
167Pershing IIE2 5b 2
168Cruise MissileE2 5c 3
 DEEP FIX  
170Ivor Bigum7b *4
171Utter from the Gutter7c *5
172The Cold War7a *22
173Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a **122
174Insidious PracticesE2 5c *20
175Two-ton Caiman7b *13
176Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *11
177The Deep FixE1 5b *22
178Vic 20HVS 5b *49
179The Really Exciting ClimbVS 5a **76
180The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a *4
181Space InvadersE2 5b *20
182Astro BlasterE4 6a 1
183Paradise6c *11
184The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *4
 LOOKOUT AREA  
186Stake Out7a *9
187Eliminator7a+ *13
188Methylated Laughter7a+ *8
189Adequate Compensation6b+ *14
190Big is Best6a+ *19
191Go for GoldE1 5b *14
192New Gold DreamE1 5b *23
193Fool's Gold6c 20
194Romancing the StoneE4 6b * 
195Golden ConfusionHVS 5a 7
196Passionate FriendE1 5b *45
197Bruno His WallHVS 5a *40
198UaebaE5 6b 2
199Sheik yer Money6c **49
200George Formby7a+ *14
201MasadaE5 6b *5
202Silage Time7a *30
203The Blood Red GameHVS 4c 4
204MeanstreakE5 6b 4
205Hom's PunkE5 6a **3
206The JehadE5 6b **5
 CHAIN GANG  
208PilE1 5b 28
209Primrose WalkE2 5c **9
210Yellow BellyE3 5c 11
211BeachcomberHVS 5b 11
212Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *1
213Corinthian Groove8b * 
214Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***14
215Mr. OlympiaE5 6b ***25
216Olympus TripE6 6b **4
217Iron Man7b **4
218Chain GangE5 6b ***42
219More GeniusE5 6b **16
220Precious TimeE4 6a *44
221Coiled SpineE1 5b 11
222The StirrerE2 5c 15
223KanlyE2 5b **63
224BauxedHVS 5a **106
225Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
226Once in a Blue Moon6b+ 5
 YELLOW WALL  
228Badger Badger Badger8a+ **2
229Dive, Dive, Dive7b **34
230Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *48
231White SeamE3 5c 1
232MelkorE3 5c *44
233Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **30
234Cornhollio7b *5
235The Nut ClusterE4 6a 4
236The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***114
237String of Pearls6b+ ***300
238Pale ShelterE1 5b **170
239Second SenseE4 6a 1
240Lemon Entry6c 5
 BLACK WALLS  
242Spine Chill6c+ *47
243Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *5
244Menincursion6c+ **36
245The Peppermint PigE3 6a *12
246Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *10
247The Lull7b 9
248Willowbrooks7a *4
249Storm Warning7a *21
250Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *11
251Drip, Drip, Drip6c **21
252Wet Dreams7a *17
253Captain Percival6a+ *112
254Clutching at Squaws6b *58
255Washington WaltzE5 6b  
256Salty DogE1 5b 2
257Pure ManiaE3 5c 1
258Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c 4
259Winterreise6b 13
260Secondhand Daylight6b+ **4
261Night-Time Rendezvous6c+ 5
262Nightwatch7a+ *1
263Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b *1
 HOMO SAPIEN  
26522117a+ *7
266Ten Forty7a 5
267Karaoke Club7a+ **1
268Thin Red Line7a+ **3
269Blue Steel7c ** 
270Homo Sexual7b+  
271Candle in the Wind7a+ *1
272The Eleventh Hour6c  
273Sonic Sinbad7a *15
274The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *24
275Homo Erectus7b **13
276Homo Sapien7a+ ***73
277White Hopes7b ***25
278Snakes and Ladders7c+ *1
279Sèverine7b+ *2
280After the FactE4 6b  
281Raw7a+ **1
282The Gold CoastE3 5c *23
283Watch Your Poison7b * 
284Loose LingoE4 6a  
 END OF THE ROAD  
286Absolute BeginnersE2 5b 3
287Frontiers of Reality6a+ 12
288Michelle's PillarE1 5b 6
289Small Bore6b+ *8
290Counting Crows7c  
291The Happening BoysE4 6a  
292Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a 2
293More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **1
294Physical Abuse7b+ *1
295Eco-Mouse7b *6
296Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *28
297Years of Abuse6b+ 9
298Reading Henry by the Road6a+ 28
 LOCATION UNKNOWN  
300The SilmarillionE3 6a 1
301Squawk6b 1
302Plagued by Anchovies6c+ *2
303Planned Obsolescence5c 1
304Cold Blood8a * 
305Bad Blood7c+ * 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08