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These details were last updated on 24/Sep/2013

Pen Trwyn

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 280 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
8 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
9 °C
17 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
28 kph

1.4mm rain
10 °C
28 kph

2.2mm rain
11 °C
20 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Green Flash5+ 57
3The Seagull Has Landed7b 2
4The Apostle7a+ 8
5Hom Rescue6b *50
6The Graduate6b *61
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *9
8Ring Peace7b+ *1
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *7
10The Breck Road7a+ *4
11Tales of No Power7a+ *15
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **18
13The Mask7b+ *13
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a 3
15Ace of Wands7b *3
16The Damage Religion7b+ *4
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *4
19Tomorrow People7c **16
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **3
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *28
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *45
24Lizzy Askins7a+ 1
25The Fly7b+ *4
26Parting Shot6c+ *9
27Brothers in Arms6c **38
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **156
29Tony's Route6a+ *46
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *85
31Fears for Tears6c *42
32Fears For Beers6c+ 1
33Shadows and Lights7b *1
34Pink and Black6c *13
35Purple Tight Fright6c 4
36The Triad6b+ *13
37Taipan7b+ *4
38Split Infinity6b+ 21
39Simon Says8a **5
40Split Infinity Direct6c+ 2
42NostradamusE5 6a 1
43King KrankE5 6b **37
44Body Torque7b+ *14
45Body Torque Direct7c *13
46Axle Attack7a+ ***205
47Bloodsports7b ***101
48The Bloods7a+ **175
49Blood Lust7b+ **3
50Contusion6c **301
51Contusion Extension6c+ ***4
52Mayfair7a+ **130
53Julio Juvenito7a *79
54Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b **5
55Harry the Clamp7a+ *15
56Masterplan8a+ ***2
57The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***14
58Masterclass7c+ ***2
59Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
60Oyster7c+ ***2
61The Bearded Clam7a+ ***35
62Reader's WivesE5 6b *5
63Needle in the Groove7b+ ***9
64RuptureE5 6c **1
65RaptureE4 6b ***11
66Plagued by Fools7b+ ***14
67Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***98
68Wall of BlutesE3 6a *4
69Conner's FollyE1 5b **90
70Just for Kicks7a *3
71Burslem Boys6c+ *11
73Half Man, Half Beard7a *25
74The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
75Rock Lobster8a **3
76Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **6
77John Paul and the Vatican 77c **6
78Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ * 
80Testament6c+ **88
81Talisman6c+ *17
82Touchstone6c+ *20
83Jungle JiveE2 5c 1
84Bored Games7a+ *5
85Aardvark StartV6 **3
86Norman DirectV7 **2
87Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+ 1
88Norman's Wisdom6c+ **57
89Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *25
90The Lyon King7a+ *8
91LipstickE5 F6c * 
92ItE2 5b *125
93Gold DiggerE2 5c 17
94Precious MetalE1 5b **261
96Midas TouchE4 6a *1
97Billy The Fish7c+ 1
98Magical Ring7a+ **19
99Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **14
100Pot of GoldE4 6a 2
101Pure Gold6c+ **28
102Capturing the Coelacanth7b **7
103Love Over GoldE3 6a *19
104AfterthoughtHVS 5a *2
105Goldeneye7b+ * 
106ZigHVS 5a 2
108Gold RushE6 6b ***4
109PlumblineE3 5c ***167
110Scary CanaryE5 6a ***36
111Really scary canaryE5 6a ** 
112FlakeawayE5 6b *15
113ZagHVS 5a 1
114The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
115Plumbline TraverseV5 11
117Hot ClubE4 6a *1
118Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **70
119SussudioE3 6a 11
120ProspectorsE4 6a *10
121Price of GoldE4 6b **16
122Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
123Quicksilver7a ***65
124The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***6
125The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a 6
127Private InvestigationsE5 6b *8
128Too Low for ZeroE3 2
129KlondikeE3 6a **45
130Pocket CityE3 6a **29
131SourdoughE4 6a *6
132Iron in My Soul6c+ *4
133Solid GoldE3 6a ***59
134Captain Fingers7a+ **24
135FireflyE3 5c ***104
136Mr.Chips7a **57
137You've had Your Chips7b *15
138After the Gold Rush6c *2
139The Bar Spangled Banner6c *1
140Silver SurferE3 6a *27
141Cage full of Budgies7a 5
143Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
144No Arc, No Bark7a+ **39
145Excursion Direct6c+ **66
146Call It BlackE5 6a *9
 Climb nameGradex
147ExcursionE2 5b ***168
148The Arc of EternityE4 6a **13
149The VisionaryE4 6a **36
150Clear White LightE3 6a **38
151Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *3
152BeaverbrookE5 6a *2
153Pershing IIE2 5b 2
154Cruise MissileE2 5c 3
156Ivor Bigum7b+ **3
157Utter from the Gutter7c *4
158The Cold War7a *15
159Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a *103
160Insidious PracticesE2 5c *18
161Two-ton Caiman7b *10
162Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *11
163The Deep FixE2 5c 20
164Vic 20HVS 5b *45
165The Really Exciting ClimbVS 4c **72
166The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a 4
167Space InvadersE2 5b *18
168Astro BlasterE4 6a 1
169Paradise6c *8
170The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *3
172Stake Out7a *9
173Eliminator7a+ *13
174Methylated Laughter7a+ *7
175Adequate Compensation6b+ *13
176Big is Best6a+ *18
177Go for GoldE1 5b *11
178New Gold DreamE1 5b *18
179Fool's Gold6c 17
180Romancing the StoneE4 6b * 
181Golden ConfusionHVS 5a 7
182Passionate FriendE1 5b *41
183Bruno His WallHVS 5a *39
184UaebaE5 6b 2
185Sheik yer Money6c **42
186George Formby7a+ *13
187MasadaE5 6b *5
188Silage Time7a *23
189The Blood Red GameHVS 4c 3
190MeanstreakE5 6b 2
191Hom's PunkE5 6a **2
192The JehadE5 6b **2
194PilE1 5b 22
195Primrose WalkE2 5c **3
196Yellow BellyE3 5c 9
197BeachcomberHVS 5b 10
198Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *1
199Carinthian Groove8b  
200Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***14
201Mr. OlympiaE5 6a ***20
202Olympus TripE6 6b **4
203Iron Man7b *4
204Chain GangE5 6b ***37
205More GeniusE5 6a *14
206Precious TimeE4 6a **37
207Coiled SpineE1 5b 6
208The StirrerE2 5c 15
209KanlyE2 5c *57
210BauxedE1 5b *98
211Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
212Once in a Blue Moon6b+ 3
214Badger Badger Badger8a+ *2
215Dive, Dive, Dive7b **31
216Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *43
217White SeamE3 5c 1
218MelkorE3 5c *42
219Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **26
220Cornholio7b *5
221The Nut ClusterE4 6a 3
222The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***105
223String of Pearls6b+ ***262
224Pale ShelterE1 5b **154
225Second SenseE4 6a 1
226Lemon Entry6c 5
228Spine Chill6c+ *46
229Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *5
230Menincursion6c+ **34
231The Peppermint PigE3 6a *11
232Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *9
233The Lull7b 9
234Willowbrooks7a *3
235Storm Warning7a *20
236Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *10
237Drip, Drip, Drip6c *17
238Wet Dreams7a *16
239Captain Percival6a+ *101
240Clutching at Squaws6b *50
241Washington WaltzE5 6b  
242Salty DogE1 5b 2
243Pure ManiaE3 5c 1
244Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c 4
245Winterreise6b 6
246Secondhand Daylight6b+ **3
247Night-Time Rendezvous6c+ 2
248Nightwatch7a+ * 
249Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b * 
25122117a+ *7
252Ten Forty7a 5
253Karaoke Club7a+ **1
254Thin Red LineE5 6b **3
255Blue Steel7c ** 
256Homosexual7b+ * 
257Candle in the WindE5 6b **1
258The Eleventh HourE3 6a  
259Sonic Sinbad7a *13
260The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *22
261Homo Erectus7b **11
262Homo Sapien7a+ ***57
263White Hopes7b ***19
264Snakes and Ladders7c+ ***1
265Sèverine7b+ **2
266After the FactE4 6b  
267Raw7a+ **1
268The Gold CoastE3 5c *21
269Watch Your Poison7b * 
270Loose LingoE4 6a  
272Absolute BeginnersE2 5b 3
273Frontiers of Reality6a+ 11
274Michelle's PillarE1 5b 6
275Small Bore6b+ *8
276Counting Crows7c  
277The Happening BoysE4 6a  
278Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a 2
279More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **1
280Physical Abuse7b+ *1
281Eco-Mouse7b *5
282Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *26
283Years of Abuse6b+ 8
284Reading Henry by the Road6a+ 27
286The SilmarillionE3 6a 1
287Squawk6b 1
288The Picnic7b+ ** 
289Jerusalem is Lost7a **8
290De Torquemada7b+ **1
291Slouching Towards Bethlehem7a+ **2
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Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13

A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08