Pen Trwyn

Climbs 280 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 DUMBELL FLYER 
2Green Flash5c
3The Seagull Has Landed7b
4The Apostle7a+
5Hom Rescue6b *
6The Graduate6b *
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *
8Ring Peace7b+ *
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *
10The Breck Road7a+ *
11Tales of No Power7a+ *
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **
13The Mask7b+ *
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a
15Ace of Wands7b *
16The Damage Religion7b+ *
17Snakebite7b
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *
19Tomorrow People7c **
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *
 MUMBO JUMBO 
24Lizzy Askins7a+
25The Fly7b+ *
26Parting Shot6c+ *
27Brothers in Arms6c **
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **
29Tony's Route6a+ *
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *
31Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish6b
32Fears for Tears6c *
33Fears For Beers6c+
34Shadows and Lights7b *
35Pink and Black6c *
36Purple Tight Fright6c
37The Triad6b+ *
38Taipan7b+ *
39Split Infinity6b+
40Simon Says8a **
41Split Infinity Direct6c+
 MAYFAIR 
43NostradamusE5 6a
44King Krank7a+ **
45Body Torque7b+ *
46Body Torque Direct7c *
47Axle Attack7a+ ***
48Bloodsports7b ***
49The Bloods7a+ **
50Blood Lust7b+ **
51Contusion6c **
52Contusion Extension6c+ ***
53Senile Penile Extension7b+ **
54Mayfair7a+ **
55Julio Juvenito7a *
56Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b **
57Harry the Clamp7a+ *
58Masterplan8a+ ***
59The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***
60Masterclass7c+ ***
61Thunder RoadE6 6b **
62Oyster7c+ ***
63The Bearded Clam7a+ ***
64Reader's WivesE5 6b *
65Needle in the Groove7b+ ***
66RuptureE5 6c **
67RaptureE4 6b ***
68Plagued by Fools7b+ ***
69Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***
70Wall of BlutesE3 6a *
71Conner's FollyE1 5b **
72Just for Kicks7a *
73Burslem Boys6c+ *
 HANGING ROCK 
75The Wall Of Goutes6b
76Slouching Towards Bethlehem7b **
77De Torquemada7b+ **
78The Picnic7b+ **
79Jerusalem is Lost7a **
80Perthy Thrower6a
 THE CUTAWAY 
82Half Man, Half Beard7a *
83The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **
84Rock Lobster8a **
85Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **
86John Paul and the Vatican 77c **
87Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ *
 TESTAMENT 
89Testament6c+ **
90Talisman6c+ *
91Touchstone6c+ *
92Jungle JiveE2 5c
93Bored Games7a+ *
94Aardvark StartV6 **
95Norman DirectV7 **
96Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+
97Norman's Wisdom6c+ **
98Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *
99Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6
100The Lyon King7a+ *
101LipstickE5 F6c *
102ItE2 5b *
103Gold DiggerE2 5c
104Precious MetalE1 5b **
 LOVE OVER GOLD 
106Midas TouchE4 6a *
107Magical Ring7a+ **
108Billy The Fish7c+
109Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **
110Pot of GoldE4 6a
111Pure Gold6c+ **
112Capturing the Coelacanth7b **
113Love Over GoldE3 6a *
114AfterthoughtHVS 5a *
115Goldeneye7b+ *
116ZigHVS 5a
 PLUMBLINE 
118Gold RushE6 6b ***
119PlumblineE3 5c ***
120Scary CanaryE5 6a ***
121Really scary canaryE5 6a **
122FlakeawayE5 6b *
123ZagHVS 5a
124The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a
125Plumbline TraverseV5 **
 QUICKSILVER 
127Hot ClubE4 6a *
128Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **
129SussudioE3 6a
130ProspectorsE4 6a *
131Price of GoldE4 6b **
132Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *
133Quicksilver7a ***
134The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***
135The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a
 FIREFLY 
137Private InvestigationsE5 6b *
138Too Low for ZeroE3
139KlondikeE3 6a **
140Pocket CityE3 6a **
141SourdoughE4 6a *
142Iron in My Soul6c+ *
143Solid GoldE3 6a ***
144Captain Fingers7a+ **
145FireflyE3 5c ***
146Mr.Chips7a **
147You've had Your Chips7b *
148After the Gold Rush6c *
149The Bar Spangled Banner6c *
150Silver Surfer6c+ *
151Cage full of Budgies7a
 EXCURSION 
153Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **
154No Arc, No Bark7a+ **
155Excursion Direct6c+ **
156Call It BlackE5 6a *
157ExcursionE2 5b ***
158The Arc of EternityE4 6a **
159The VisionaryE4 6a **
160Clear White LightE3 6a **
161Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *
162BeaverbrookE5 6a *
163Pershing IIE2 5b
164Cruise MissileE2 5c
 DEEP FIX 
166Ivor Bigum7b+ **
167Utter from the Gutter7c *
168The Cold War7a *
169Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a *
170Insidious PracticesE2 5c *
171Two-ton Caiman7b *
172Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *
173The Deep FixE2 5c
174Vic 20HVS 5b *
175The Really Exciting ClimbVS 4c **
176The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a
177Space InvadersE2 5b *
178Astro BlasterE4 6a
179Paradise6c *
180The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *
 LOOKOUT AREA 
182Stake Out7a *
183Eliminator7a+ *
184Methylated Laughter7a+ *
185Adequate Compensation6b+ *
186Big is Best6a+ *
187Go for GoldE1 5b *
188New Gold DreamE1 5b *
189Fool's Gold6c
190Romancing the StoneE4 6b *
191Golden ConfusionHVS 5a
192Passionate FriendE1 5b *
193Bruno His WallHVS 5a *
194UaebaE5 6b
195Sheik yer Money6c **
196George Formby7a+ *
197MasadaE5 6b *
198Silage Time7a *
199The Blood Red GameHVS 4c
200MeanstreakE5 6b
201Hom's PunkE5 6a **
202The JehadE5 6b **
 CHAIN GANG 
204PilE1 5b
205Primrose WalkE2 5c **
206Yellow BellyE3 5c
207BeachcomberHVS 5b
208Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *
209Carinthian Groove8b
210Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***
211Mr. OlympiaE5 6a ***
212Olympus TripE6 6b **
213Iron Man7b *
214Chain GangE5 6b ***
215More GeniusE5 6a *
216Precious TimeE4 6a **
217Coiled SpineE1 5b
218The StirrerE2 5c
219KanlyE2 5c *
220BauxedE1 5b *
221Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c
222Once in a Blue Moon6b+
 YELLOW WALL 
224Badger Badger Badger8a+ *
225Dive, Dive, Dive7b **
226Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *
227White SeamE3 5c
228MelkorE3 5c *
229Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **
230Cornholio7b *
231The Nut ClusterE4 6a
232The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***
233String of Pearls6b+ ***
234Pale ShelterE1 5b **
235Second SenseE4 6a
236Lemon Entry6c
 BLACK WALL 
238Spine Chill6c+ *
239Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *
240Menincursion6c+ **
241The Peppermint PigE3 6a *
242Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *
243The Lull7b
244Willowbrooks7a *
245Storm Warning7a *
246Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *
247Drip, Drip, Drip6c **
248Wet Dreams7a *
249Captain Percival6a+ *
250Clutching at Squaws6b *
251Washington WaltzE5 6b
252Salty DogE1 5b
253Pure ManiaE3 5c
254Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c
255Winterreise6b
256Secondhand Daylight6b+ **
257Night-Time Rendezvous6c+
258Nightwatch7a+ *
259Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b *
 HOMO SAPIEN 
26122117a+ *
262Ten Forty7a
263Karaoke Club7a+ **
264Thin Red Line7a+ **
265Blue Steel7c **
266Homosexual7b+ *
267Candle in the Wind7a+ **
268The Eleventh Hour6c
269Sonic Sinbad7a *
270The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *
271Homo Erectus7b **
272Homo Sapien7a+ ***
273White Hopes7b ***
274Snakes and Ladders7c+ ***
275Sèverine7b+ **
276After the FactE4 6b
277Raw7a+ **
278The Gold CoastE3 5c *
279Watch Your Poison7b *
280Loose LingoE4 6a
 END OF THE ROAD 
282Absolute BeginnersE2 5b
283Frontiers of Reality6a+
284Michelle's PillarE1 5b
285Small Bore6b+ *
286Counting Crows7c
287The Happening BoysE4 6a
288Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a
289More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **
290Physical Abuse7b+ *
291Eco-Mouse7b *
292Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *
293Years of Abuse6b+
294Reading Henry by the Road6a+
 LOCATION UNKNOWN 
296The SilmarillionE3 6a
297Squawk6b
298Plagued by Anchovies6c+ *
299Planned Obsolescence5c
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 29/Sep/2014
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