Climbs 296
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces E

The Great Orme Sunset © Alejandro

Crag features

Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwyn's popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isn't all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.
The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Approach notes

Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £3 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Restricted Access

Restrictions apply from  1 March - 31 July. Reason - Nesting Birds

Birds (Kestrels)  occasionally nest in the hole on the route "Norman's Wisdom" and  it would be wise to avoid that route and the routes immediately either side of it from 1st March to 31st July.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Dumbell Flyer 
2Green Flash
-
5c 73
3The Seagull Has Landed
-
7b 2
4The Apostle
-
7a+ 11
5Hom Rescue
-
6b *60
6The Graduate
-
6b *71
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith
-
7a+ *11
8Ring Peace
-
7b+ *5
9The Burning Sphincter
-
7a+ *11
10The Breck Road
-
7a+ *8
11Tales of No Power
-
7a+ *18
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne
-
7a **22
13The Mask
-
7b+ *13
14Dumbell Flyer
-
E4 6a 4
15Ace of Wands
-
7b *4
16The Damage Religion
-
7b+ *4
17Snakebite
-
7b  
18Aerial Multigym
-
7a+ *4
19Tomorrow People
-
7c **24
20Harry's Zontal Band
-
7b **3
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand
-
7b *34
22Werry's Woof Woot
-
7a+ *51
 Mumbo Jumbo 
24Lizzy Askins7a+ 1
25The Fly
-
7b+ *6
26Parting Shot
-
6c+ *9
27Brothers in Arms
-
6c **48
28Mumbo Jumbo
-
6a **199
29Tony's Route
-
6a+ *53
30Tears as Souvenirs
-
6b *105
31Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish6b 9
32Fears for Tears
-
6c *54
33Fears For Beers
-
6c+ 1
34Shadows and Lights
-
7b *2
35Pink and Black
-
6c *15
36Purple Tight Fright
-
6c 4
37The Triad
-
6b+ *14
38Taipan
-
7b+ *4
39Split Infinity6b+ 28
40Simon Says8a **6
41Split Infinity Direct6c+ 5
 Mayfair 
43NostradamusE5 6a 1
44King KrankE5 6b **44
45Body Torque7b+ *22
46Body Torque Direct7c **19
47Axle Attack7a+ ***327
48True Blood7a+ **2
49Bloodsports7b ***161
50The Bloods7a+ **247
51Cold Blood8a ** 
52Bad Blood7c+ * 
53Blood Lust7c *5
54Contusion6c **419
55Contusion Extension6c+ ***54
56Senile Penile Extension7b+ *20
57Mayfair7a+ **171
58Julio Juvenito7a **106
59Julio Juvento Extension7a+ **6
60Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b *7
61Harry the Clamp7a+ *25
62Master Plan8a+ ***3
63The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***19
64Masterclass7c+ ***6
65Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
66Oyster8a ***3
67The Bearded Clam7a+ ***57
68Reader's Wives7a+ ***6
69Needle in the Groove7c **9
70RuptureE5 6c **2
71RaptureE4 6b **16
72Plagued by Fools7b+ **16
73Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***116
74Plagued by Anchovies
-
6c+ *4
75Wall of Blutes
-
E3 6a *11
76Conner's Folly
-
E1 5b **106
77Just for Kicks
-
7a *3
78The Witches of Pen Trwyn7c+ *1
79Burslem Boys
-
6c+ *14
 Hanging Rock 
81The Wall Of Goutes6b 17
82Gripper Clipper7a *1
83Slouching Towards Bethlehem7b **5
84De Torquemada7b+ **3
85The Picnic7b+ ** 
86Jerusalem is Lost7a **14
87Perthy Thrower6a 17
 The Cutaway 
89Half Man, Half Beard
-
7a *27
90The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
91Rock Lobster
-
8a **3
92Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **6
93John Paul and the Vatican 7
-
7c **7
94Who Framed Roger Rabbi
-
7b+ * 
 Testament to Pure Gold 
96Testament6c+ **119
97Talisman7a *22
98Touchstone6c+ **23
99Confuse the Aardvark7b  
100Jungle JiveE2 5c 2
101Bored Games7a+ *6
102Aardvark StartV6 **6
103Norman DirectV7 **3
104Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+ *1
105Norman's Wisdom6c+ **72
106Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *26
107Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6 5
108The Lyon King7a+ *13
109Lipstick
-
E5 F6c * 
110ItE2 5b *165
111Gold Digger
-
E2 5c 20
112Precious MetalE1 5b **339
113Midas Touch
-
E4 6a *4
114Magical Ring7a+ **24
115Billy The Fish7c+ 1
116Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **18
117Pot of Gold6c+ *5
118Pure Gold6c+ **37
119Capturing the Coelacanth7b **14
120Love Over GoldE3 6a *24
121AfterthoughtHVS 5a *3
122Goldeneye7b+  
123ZigHVS 5a 3
 Plumbline 
125Wings of Perception7b+ **3
126Gold RushE6 6b ***10
127PlumblineE3 5c ***233
128Scary CanaryE5 6a ***56
129Really scary canaryE5 6a **1
130FlakeawayE5 6b **18
131ZagHVS 5a 2
132The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
133Plumbline TraverseV5 **21
 Quicksilver 
135Hot Club
-
E4 6a *5
136Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **88
137SussudioE3 6a *13
138ProspectorsE4 6a *11
139The 24 Karat Start7a+ *2
140Price of GoldE4 6b **18
141Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
142Quicksilver7a ***99
143The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***9
144The Alchemist's Dream
-
E4 6a 9
 Firefly 
146Private InvestigationsE5 6b *9
147Too Low for ZeroE3 2
148KlondikeE3 6a **61
149Pocket CityE3 6a **40
150SourdoughE4 6a *10
151Sourdough DirectE5 6b *1
152Iron in My Soul
-
6c+ *6
153Solid GoldE3 6a **88
154Captain Fingers7a+ **30
155FireflyE3 5c ***125
156Mr. Chips7a **76
157You've had Your Chips7b **18
158After the Gold Rush6c *13
159The Bar Spangled Banner
-
6c *2
160Silver Surfer6c+ *39
161Cage full of Budgies
-
7a 7
 Excursion 
163No Bark, No Drill7c ** 
164Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
165No Arc, No Bark7a+ **48
166Excursion Direct6c+ **79
167Call It BlackE4 6a *11
168ExcursionE2 5b ***226
169The Arc of EternityE4 6a **16
170Swift GundercutE5 6a * 
171The VisionaryE3 6a **42
172Clear White LightE3 6a **48
173Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *4
174BeaverbrookE5 6a *3
175Pershing II
-
E2 5b 2
176Cruise Missile
-
E2 5c 3
 Deep Fix 
178Ivor Bigum7b *4
179Utter from the Gutter7c *4
180The Cold War7a *22
181Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a **137
182Insidious PracticesE2 5c *25
183Two-ton Caiman7b *14
184Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *12
185The Deep FixE1 5b *22
186Vic 20HVS 5b *52
187The Really Exciting ClimbVS 5a **88
188The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a *4
189Space InvadersE2 5b *20
190Astro Blaster
-
E4 6a 2
191Paradise6c *12
192The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *4
 Lookout Area 
194Stake Out
-
7a *9
195Eliminator
-
7a+ *13
196Methylated Laughter
-
7a+ *8
197Adequate Compensation6b+ *19
198Big is Best
-
6a+ *27
199Go for Gold
-
E1 5b *16
200New Gold Dream
-
E1 5b *24
201Fool's Gold
-
6c 22
202Romancing the Stone
-
E4 6b * 
203Golden Confusion
-
HVS 5a 7
204Passionate Friend
-
E1 5b *47
205Bruno His Wall
-
HVS 5a *41
206Uaeba
-
E5 6b 2
207Sheik yer Money
-
6c **51
208George Formby
-
7a+ *16
209Masada
-
E5 6b *5
210Silage Time
-
7a *34
211The Blood Red Game
-
HVS 4c 4
212Meanstreak
-
E5 6b 4
213Hom's Punk
-
E5 6a **4
214The JehadE5 6b **7
 Chain Gang 
216Pil
-
E1 5b 34
217Primrose WalkE2 5c **10
218Yellow Belly
-
E3 5c 14
219Beachcomber
-
HVS 5b 12
220Pen Trwyn Pilots
-
E4 6b *1
221Corinthian Groove8b *2
222Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***18
223Mr. OlympiaE5 6b ***27
224Olympus TripE6 6b **4
225Iron Man7b **5
226Chain GangE5 6b ***50
227More GeniusE5 6b **17
228Precious TimeE4 6a *47
229Coiled Spine
-
E1 5b 12
230The Stirrer
-
E2 5c 16
231KanlyE2 5b **66
232BauxedHVS 5a **112
233Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
234Once in a Blue Moon
-
6b+ 5
 Yellow Wall 
236Badger Badger Badger8a+ **3
237Dive, Dive, Dive7b **51
238Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *52
239White Seam
-
E3 5c 1
240MelkorE3 5c *57
241Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **37
242Cornhollio7b *6
243The Nut Cluster
-
E4 6a 6
244The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***134
245String of Pearls6b+ ***342
246Pale ShelterE1 5b **190
247Second Sense
-
E4 6a 2
248Lemon Entry
-
6c 5
 Black Walls 
250Spine Chill
-
6c+ *48
251Blackwall Tunnel
-
7a+ *5
252Menincursion
-
6c+ **41
253The Peppermint Pig
-
E3 6a *14
254Willowbrooks Direct
-
7a+ *9
255The Lull
-
7b 9
256Willowbrooks
-
7a *5
257Storm Warning
-
7a *23
258Drip, Drip, Drip Direct
-
7a *10
259Drip, Drip, Drip
-
6c **22
260Wet Dreams
-
7a *17
261Captain Percival
-
6a+ *118
262Hot Chick6b+ 5
263Clutching at Squaws
-
6b *64
264Washington Waltz
-
E5 6b  
265Salty Dog
-
E1 5b 3
266Pure Mania
-
E3 5c 1
267Lets lynch the landlord
-
E2 5c 6
268Winterreise
-
6b 21
269Secondhand Daylight
-
6b+ **4
270Night-Time Rendezvous
-
6c+ 8
271Nightwatch
-
7a+ *2
272Dave's Rent-a-Drill Co
-
E2 5b *1
 Homo Sapien 
2742211
-
7a+ *7
275Ten Forty
-
7a 5
276Karaoke Club
-
7a+ **2
277Thin Red Line7a+ **4
278Blue Steel
-
7c ** 
279Homo Sexual7b+  
280Candle in the Wind7a+ *1
281The Eleventh Hour
-
6c  
282Sonic Sinbad7a *17
283The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *26
284Homo Erectus7b **15
285Homo Sapien7a+ ***88
286White Hopes7b ***43
287Snakes and Ladders7c+ *1
288Sèverine7b+ *2
289After the Fact
-
E4 6b  
290Raw
-
7a+ **1
291The Gold Coast
-
E3 5c *24
292Watch Your Poison
-
7b * 
293Loose Lingo
-
E4 6a  
 End of the Road 
295Absolute Beginners
-
E2 5b 3
296Frontiers of Reality
-
6a+ 14
297Michelle's Pillar
-
E1 5b 7
298Small Bore
-
6b+ *12
299Counting Crows
-
7c  
300The Happening Boys
-
E4 6a  
301Sucking the Short Straw
-
E3 6a 2
302More Quizzical then Physical
-
7b+ **2
303Physical Abuse
-
7b+ *2
304Eco-Mouse
-
7b *6
305Treat Me Like a Person
-
6a+ *31
306Years of Abuse
-
6b+ 12
307Reading Henry by the Road
-
6a+ 30
 Location Unknown 
309The Silmarillion
-
E3 6a 1
310Squawk
-
6b 1
311Planned Obsolescence5c 3
312Fall BackE5 6b *1
313Ward 10E6 6b **1
314Serious Trad7a+ 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens