Pen Trwyn

Climbs 293 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DUMBELL FLYER  
2Green Flash5c 66
3The Seagull Has Landed7b 2
4The Apostle7a+ 10
5Hom Rescue6b *57
6The Graduate6b *65
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *10
8Ring Peace7b+ *1
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *7
10The Breck Road7a+ *4
11Tales of No Power7a+ *17
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **21
13The Mask7b+ *13
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a 3
15Ace of Wands7b *3
16The Damage Religion7b+ *4
17Snakebite7b  
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *4
19Tomorrow People7c **17
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **3
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *31
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *47
 MUMBO JUMBO  
24Lizzy Askins7a+ 1
25The Fly7b+ *4
26Parting Shot6c+ *9
27Brothers in Arms6c **44
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **174
29Tony's Route6a+ *51
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *96
31Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish6b 3
32Fears for Tears6c *47
33Fears For Beers6c+ 1
34Shadows and Lights7b *1
35Pink and Black6c *13
36Purple Tight Fright6c 4
37The Triad6b+ *13
38Taipan7b+ *4
39Split Infinity6b+ 23
40Simon Says8a **5
41Split Infinity Direct6c+ 2
 MAYFAIR  
43NostradamusE5 6a 1
44King KrankE5 6b **43
45Body Torque7b+ *20
46Body Torque Direct7c **18
47Axle Attack7a+ ***269
48Bloodsports7b ***137
49The Bloods7a+ **226
50Blood Lust7c *4
51Contusion6c **380
52Contusion Extension6c+ ***41
53Senile Penile Extension7b+ *17
54Mayfair7a+ **164
55Julio Juvenito7a **99
56Julio Juvento Extension7a+ **5
57Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b *5
58Harry the Clamp7a+ *22
59Master Plan8a+ ***2
60The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***18
61Masterclass7c+ ***3
62Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
63Oyster8a ***2
64The Bearded Clam7a+ ***52
65Reader's Wives7a+ ***5
66Needle in the Groove7c **9
67RuptureE5 6c **1
68RaptureE4 6b **15
69Plagued by Fools7b+ **15
70Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***107
71Wall of BlutesE3 6a *8
72Conner's FollyE1 5b **99
73Just for Kicks7a *3
74The Witches of Pen Trwyn7c+ *1
75Burslem Boys6c+ *13
 HANGING ROCK  
77The Wall Of Goutes6b 7
78Gripper Clipper7a *1
79Slouching Towards Bethlehem7b **4
80De Torquemada7b+ **2
81The Picnic7b+ ** 
82Jerusalem is Lost7a **9
83Perthy Thrower6a 7
 THE CUTAWAY  
85Half Man, Half Beard7a *27
86The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
87Rock Lobster8a **3
88Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **6
89John Paul and the Vatican 77c **6
90Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ * 
 TESTAMENT TO PURE GOLD  
92Testament6c+ **112
93Talisman7a *19
94Touchstone6c+ **21
95Confuse the Aardvark7b  
96Jungle JiveE2 5c 2
97Bored Games7a+ *5
98Aardvark StartV6 **5
99Norman DirectV7 **3
100Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+ *1
101Norman's Wisdom6c+ **65
102Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *25
103Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6 5
104The Lyon King7a+ *12
105LipstickE5 F6c * 
106ItE2 5b *145
107Gold DiggerE2 5c 20
108Precious MetalE1 5b **302
109Midas TouchE4 6a *3
110Magical Ring7a+ **24
111Billy The Fish7c+ 1
112Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **17
113Pot of Gold6c+ *4
114Pure Gold6c+ **35
115Capturing the Coelacanth7b **13
116Love Over GoldE3 6a *23
117AfterthoughtHVS 5a *2
118Goldeneye7b+  
119ZigHVS 5a 3
 PLUMBLINE  
121Wings of Perception7b+ ** 
122Gold RushE6 6b ***7
123PlumblineE3 5c ***201
124Scary CanaryE5 6a ***45
125Really scary canaryE5 6a **1
126FlakeawayE5 6b **16
127ZagHVS 5a 2
128The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
129Plumbline TraverseV5 **19
 QUICKSILVER  
131Hot ClubE4 6a *3
132Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **80
133SussudioE3 6a *12
134ProspectorsE4 6a *11
135Price of GoldE4 6b **16
136Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
137Quicksilver7a ***84
138The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***7
139The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a 8
 FIREFLY  
141Private InvestigationsE5 6b *8
142Too Low for ZeroE3 2
143KlondikeE3 6a **55
144Pocket CityE3 6a **34
145SourdoughE4 6a *9
146Sourdough DirectE5 6b * 
147Iron in My Soul6c+ *5
148Solid GoldE3 6a **78
149Captain Fingers7a+ **25
150FireflyE3 5c ***112
151Mr. Chips7a **69
152You've had Your Chips7b **18
153After the Gold Rush6c *13
154The Bar Spangled Banner6c *2
155Silver Surfer6c+ *36
156Cage full of Budgies7a 6
 EXCURSION  
158No Bark, No Drill7c ** 
159Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
160No Arc, No Bark7a+ **47
161Excursion Direct6c+ **73
162Call It BlackE4 6a *10
163ExcursionE2 5b ***210
164The Arc of EternityE4 6a **13
165Swift GundercutE5 6a * 
166The VisionaryE3 6a **40
167Clear White LightE3 6a **45
168Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *3
169BeaverbrookE5 6a *2
170Pershing IIE2 5b 2
171Cruise MissileE2 5c 3
 DEEP FIX  
173Ivor Bigum7b *4
174Utter from the Gutter7c *5
175The Cold War7a *21
176Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a **125
177Insidious PracticesE2 5c *20
178Two-ton Caiman7b *13
179Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *11
180The Deep FixE1 5b *22
181Vic 20HVS 5b *49
182The Really Exciting ClimbVS 5a **78
183The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a *4
184Space InvadersE2 5b *20
185Astro BlasterE4 6a 1
186Paradise6c *11
187The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *4
 LOOKOUT AREA  
189Stake Out7a *9
190Eliminator7a+ *13
191Methylated Laughter7a+ *8
192Adequate Compensation6b+ *15
193Big is Best6a+ *22
194Go for GoldE1 5b *15
195New Gold DreamE1 5b *24
196Fool's Gold6c 21
197Romancing the StoneE4 6b * 
198Golden ConfusionHVS 5a 7
199Passionate FriendE1 5b *47
200Bruno His WallHVS 5a *40
201UaebaE5 6b 2
202Sheik yer Money6c **50
203George Formby7a+ *15
204MasadaE5 6b *5
205Silage Time7a *32
206The Blood Red GameHVS 4c 4
207MeanstreakE5 6b 4
208Hom's PunkE5 6a **3
209The JehadE5 6b **6
 CHAIN GANG  
211PilE1 5b 31
212Primrose WalkE2 5c **10
213Yellow BellyE3 5c 13
214BeachcomberHVS 5b 11
215Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *1
216Corinthian Groove8b * 
217Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***14
218Mr. OlympiaE5 6b ***25
219Olympus TripE6 6b **4
220Iron Man7b **4
221Chain GangE5 6b ***44
222More GeniusE5 6b **16
223Precious TimeE4 6a *45
224Coiled SpineE1 5b 12
225The StirrerE2 5c 15
226KanlyE2 5b **64
227BauxedHVS 5a **106
228Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
229Once in a Blue Moon6b+ 5
 YELLOW WALL  
231Badger Badger Badger8a+ **2
232Dive, Dive, Dive7b **36
233Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *49
234White SeamE3 5c 1
235MelkorE3 5c *46
236Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **33
237Cornhollio7b *5
238The Nut ClusterE4 6a 4
239The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***124
240String of Pearls6b+ ***309
241Pale ShelterE1 5b **177
242Second SenseE4 6a 1
243Lemon Entry6c 5
 BLACK WALLS  
245Spine Chill6c+ *47
246Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *5
247Menincursion6c+ **36
248The Peppermint PigE3 6a *12
249Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *10
250The Lull7b 9
251Willowbrooks7a *4
252Storm Warning7a *21
253Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *11
254Drip, Drip, Drip6c **21
255Wet Dreams7a *17
256Captain Percival6a+ *114
257Hot Chick6b+ 2
258Clutching at Squaws6b *60
259Washington WaltzE5 6b  
260Salty DogE1 5b 3
261Pure ManiaE3 5c 1
262Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c 5
263Winterreise6b 15
264Secondhand Daylight6b+ **4
265Night-Time Rendezvous6c+ 5
266Nightwatch7a+ *1
267Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b *1
 HOMO SAPIEN  
26922117a+ *7
270Ten Forty7a 5
271Karaoke Club7a+ **1
272Thin Red Line7a+ **3
273Blue Steel7c ** 
274Homo Sexual7b+  
275Candle in the Wind7a+ *1
276The Eleventh Hour6c  
277Sonic Sinbad7a *15
278The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *24
279Homo Erectus7b **13
280Homo Sapien7a+ ***77
281White Hopes7b ***27
282Snakes and Ladders7c+ *1
283Sèverine7b+ *2
284After the FactE4 6b  
285Raw7a+ **1
286The Gold CoastE3 5c *23
287Watch Your Poison7b * 
288Loose LingoE4 6a  
 END OF THE ROAD  
290Absolute BeginnersE2 5b 3
291Frontiers of Reality6a+ 13
292Michelle's PillarE1 5b 6
293Small Bore6b+ *8
294Counting Crows7c  
295The Happening BoysE4 6a  
296Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a 2
297More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **1
298Physical Abuse7b+ *1
299Eco-Mouse7b *6
300Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *29
301Years of Abuse6b+ 9
302Reading Henry by the Road6a+ 28
 LOCATION UNKNOWN  
304The SilmarillionE3 6a 1
305Squawk6b 1
306Plagued by Anchovies6c+ *2
307Planned Obsolescence5c 1
308Cold Blood8a * 
309Bad Blood7c+ * 
310Fall BackE5 6b *1
311Ward 10E6 6b ** 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

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Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08