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These details were last updated on 12/Apr/2012

Pen Trwyn

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 280 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 DUMBELL FLYER  
2The Apostle *7a+ 6
3Green Flash5+ 54
4Hom Rescue6b *49
5The Graduate6b *57
6Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *9
7Ring Peace7b+ *1
8The Burning Sphincter7a+ *6
9The Breck Road7a+ *4
10Tales of No Power7a+ *13
11Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **16
12The Mask7b+ *13
13Dumbell FlyerE4 6a 2
14Ace of Wands7b *2
15The Damage Religion7b+ *4
16Snakebite7b  
17Aerial Multigym7a+ *3
18Tomorrow People7c **15
19Harry's Zontal Band7b **3
20Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *26
21Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *42
22The Fly7b+ *4
23Parting Shot6c+ *7
24Brothers in Arms6c **32
25Mumbo Jumbo6a **138
26Nameless6a+ 36
27Tears as Souvenirs6b *74
28Fears for Tears6c *39
29Fears For Beers *6c+ 1
30Shadows and Lights7b *1
31Pink and Black6c *11
32Purple Tight Fright6c 2
33The Triad6b+ *11
34Split Infinity6b+ 15
35Split Infinity Direct6c+ 2
 MUMBO JUMBO  
37Taipan7b+ *4
 MAYFAIR  
39King KrankE5 6b **36
40Body Torque7b+ *14
41Body Torque Direct7c *12
42Axle Attack7a+ ***184
43Bloodsports7b ***83
44The Bloods7a+ **156
45Contusion6c **266
46Mayfair7a+ **114
47Julio Juvenito7a *67
48Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b **4
49Harry the Clamp7a+ *13
50Masterplan8a+ ***2
51The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***14
52Masterclass7c+ ***1
53Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
54Oyster7c+ ***2
55The Bearded Clam7a+ ***30
56Reader's WivesE5 6b *4
57Needle in the Groove7b+ ***8
58RuptureE5 6c **1
59RaptureE4 6b ***10
60Plagued by Fools7b+ ***12
61Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***89
62Wall of BlutesE3 6a *4
63Conner's FollyE1 5b **88
64Just for Kicks7a *3
65Burslem Boys6c+ *11
 THE CUTAWAY  
67Half Man, Half Beard7a *24
68The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
69Rock Lobster8a **3
70Rodney God and the Oral Twins8a **6
71John Paul and the Vatican 77c **6
72Who Framed Roger Rabbit7b+ * 
 TESTAMENT  
74Testament6c+ **80
75Talisman6c+ *17
76Touchstone6c+ *17
77Jungle Jive *E2 5c 1
78Bored Games7a+ *4
79Aardvark Start *V6 **3
80Norman Direct *V7 **2
81Norman's Wisdom Tooth *6c+ 1
82Norman's Wisdom6c+ **53
83Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *24
84The Lyon King7a+ *8
85LipstickE5 F6c * 
86ItE2 5b *113
87Gold DiggerE2 5c 14
88Precious MetalE1 5b **236
 LOVE OVER GOLD  
90Midas TouchE4 6a *1
91Magical Ring7a+ **19
92Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **14
93Pure Gold6c+ **27
94Capturing the Coelacanth7b **7
95Love Over GoldE3 6a *18
96After Thought *HVS 5a *2
97Goldeneye7b+ * 
98ZigE1 5b 1
 PLUMBLINE  
100Gold RushE6 6b ***4
101PlumblineE3 5c ***152
102Scary CanaryE5 6a ***33
103FlakeawayE5 6b *15
104ZagHVS 5a 1
105The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
 QUICKSILVER  
107Hot ClubE4 6a *1
108Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **67
109SussudioE3 6a 9
110ProspectorsE4 6a *7
111Price of GoldE4 6b **15
112Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
113Quicksilver7a ***50
114The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***6
115The Alchemist's Dream *E4 6a 6
 FIREFLY  
117Private InvestigationsE5 6b *8
118KlondikeE3 6a **42
119Pocket CityE3 6a **26
120SourdoughE4 6a *6
121Iron in My Soul6c+ *4
122Solid GoldE3 6a ***50
123Captain Fingers7a+ **22
124FireflyE3 5c ***92
125Mr.Chips7a **54
126You've had Your Chips7b *14
127Silver SurferE3 6a *24
128Cage full of Budgies7a 5
129Span Ban *E4 6b 1
 EXCURSION  
131Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
132No Arc, No Bark7a+ **35
133Excursion Direct6c+ **63
134Call It BlackE5 6a *8
135ExcursionE2 5b ***154
136The Arc of EternityE4 6a **13
137The VisionaryE4 6a **34
138Clear White LightE3 6a **33
139Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *3
140BeaverbrookE5 6a *2
141Pershing II *E2 5b 2
142Cruise Missile *E2 5c 3
 DEEP FIX  
144The Cold War7a *14
145Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a *97
146Insidious PracticesE2 5c *15
147Two-ton Caiman7b *10
148Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *11
149The Deep FixE2 5c 18
 Climb nameGradex
150Vic 20HVS 5b *40
151The Really Exciting ClimbVS 4c **65
152The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a 3
153Space InvadersE2 5b *16
154Astro BlasterE4 6a 1
155ParadiseE4 6a *8
156The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *3
 LOOKOUT AREA  
158Stake Out7a *8
159Eliminator7a+ *13
160Methylated Laughter7a+ *7
161Adequate Compensation6b+ *10
162Big is BestE3 5c *16
163Go for GoldE1 5b *10
164New Gold DreamE1 5b *18
165Fool's Gold6c 16
166Romancing the StoneE4 6b * 
167Golden ConfusionHVS 5a 7
168Passionate FriendE1 5b *37
169Bruno His WallHVS 5a *36
170UaebaE5 6b 2
171Sheik yer Money6c **39
172George Formby7a+ *13
173MasadaE5 6b *5
174The Blood Red Game *HVS 4c 3
175Silage Time7a *21
 CHAIN GANG  
177Pil *E1 5b 18
178Yellow Belly *E3 5c 8
179BeachcomberHVS 5b 9
180Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b * 
181Foulish, GoulishE6 6b ***13
182Mr. OlympiaE5 6a ***18
183Olympus TripE6 6b **4
184Iron Man7b *3
185Chain GangE5 6b ***35
186More GeniusE5 6a *14
187Precious TimeE4 6a 33
188Coiled SpineE1 5b 6
189The StirrerE2 5c 15
190KanlyE2 5c *55
191BauxedE1 5b *95
192Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
 YELLOW WALL  
194Dive, Dive, Dive7b **29
195Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *40
196White SeamE3 5c 1
197MelkorE3 5c *41
198Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **26
199Cornholio7b *5
200The Nut ClusterE4 6a 2
201The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***96
202String of Pearls6b+ ***243
203Pale ShelterE1 5b **145
204Second SenseE4 6a 1
205Lemon Entry6c 4
 BLACK WALL  
207Spine Chill6c+ *40
208Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *4
209Menincursion6c+ **30
210The Peppermint PigE3 6a *10
211Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *8
212The Lull7b 9
213Willowbrooks7a *3
214Storm Warning7a *17
215Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *9
216Drip, Drip, Drip6c *14
217Wet Dreams7a *14
218Captain Percival6a+ *92
219Clutching at Squaws6b *44
220Washington WaltzE5 6b  
 HOMO SAPIEN  
22222117a+ *4
223Ten Forty7a 3
224Karaoke Club7a+ **1
225Thin Red LineE5 6b **2
226Blue Steel7c ** 
227Candle in the WindE5 6b **1
228The Eleventh HourE3 6a  
229Sonic Sinbad7a *13
230The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *20
231Homo Erectus7b **11
232Homo Sapien7a+ ***50
233White Hopes7b ***18
234Snakes and Ladders7c+ ***1
235Sèverine7b+ **2
236After the FactE4 6b  
237Raw7a+ **1
238The Gold CoastE3 5c *21
239Watch Your Poison7b * 
240Loose LingoE4 6a  
 END OF THE ROAD  
242Absolute BeginnersE2 5b 3
243Frontiers of Reality6a+ 11
244Michelle's PillarE1 5b 6
245Small Bore6b+ *7
246Counting Crows7c  
247The Happening BoysE4 6a  
248More Quizzical then Physical7b+ ** 
249Physical Abuse7b+ *1
250Eco-Mouse7b *5
251Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *25
252Years of Abuse6b+ 8
253Reading Henry by the Road6a+ 27
 STILL NEED SORTING  
255Koo *7b 3
256African Headcharge *7a+ 9
257The Jackal *6c 1
258Haliborange *6b+ 2
259I've Been A Bad Bad Dog *6b 1
260Sea Of Depression *7b+ 1
261Heaven's Gate *6c+ 5
262Laura *7a 5
263Sweet Dreams *6c+ 6
264The Seagull Has Landed *7b 2
265Too Low for Zero *E3 2
266Utter from the Gutter *7c 4
267The Jehad *E5 6b **2
268Nostradamus *E5 6a 1
269Plumbline Traverse *V5 7
270Simon Says *8a **4
271Tony's Route *6a+ 5
272Salty Dog *E1 5b 2
273Pure Mania *E3 5c 1
274Lets lynch the landlord *E2 5c 4
275Carinthian Groove *8b  
276Winterise *E2 5c 3
277The Silmarillion *E3 6a 1
278Secondhand Daylight *E4 6a 3
279Sucking the Short Straw *E3 6a 2
280Squawk *6b 1
281Blood Sport *7b ***2
282Billy The Fish *7c+ 1
283The Picnic *7b+ ** 
284Jerusalem is Lost *7a **7
285De Torquemada *7b+ **1
286Slouching Towards Bethlehem *7a+ **2
287Winterreise *6b 1
288Night-Time Rendezvous *6c+  
289Once in a Blue Moon *6b+ 3
290Lizzy Askins *7a+ 1
291After the gold rush *6b 1
292Ivor Bigum *7b+ **3
293Hom Punk *E5 6a **2
294Meanstreak *E5 6b 2
295Primrose Walk *E2 5c **2
296Badger Badger Badger *8a+ *2
297Really scary canary *E5 6a ** 
298Blood Lust *7b+ **1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Stig ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack ? - 28/Apr/13

A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08