Pen Trwyn

Climbs 280 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Green Flash5c 62
3The Seagull Has Landed7b 2
4The Apostle7a+ 9
5Hom Rescue6b *54
6The Graduate6b *63
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *10
8Ring Peace7b+ *1
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *7
10The Breck Road7a+ *4
11Tales of No Power7a+ *16
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **19
13The Mask7b+ *13
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a 3
15Ace of Wands7b *3
16The Damage Religion7b+ *4
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *4
19Tomorrow People7c **16
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **3
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *30
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *47
24Lizzy Askins7a+ 1
25The Fly7b+ *4
26Parting Shot6c+ *9
27Brothers in Arms6c **41
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **164
29Tony's Route6a+ *49
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *92
31Fears for Tears6c *45
32Fears For Beers6c+ 1
33Shadows and Lights7b *1
34Pink and Black6c *13
35Purple Tight Fright6c 4
36The Triad6b+ *13
37Taipan7b+ *4
38Split Infinity6b+ 22
39Simon Says8a **5
40Split Infinity Direct6c+ 2
42NostradamusE5 6a 1
43King KrankE5 6b **40
44Body Torque7b+ *18
45Body Torque Direct7c *16
46Axle Attack7a+ ***230
47Bloodsports7b ***120
48The Bloods7a+ **199
49Blood Lust7b+ **4
50Contusion6c **342
51Contusion Extension6c+ ***19
52Senile Penile Extension7b+ **5
53Mayfair7a+ **149
54Julio Juvenito7a *90
55Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b **5
56Harry the Clamp7a+ *19
57Masterplan8a+ ***2
58The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***14
59Masterclass7c+ ***2
60Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
61Oyster7c+ ***2
62The Bearded Clam7a+ ***41
63Reader's WivesE5 6b *5
64Needle in the Groove7b+ ***9
65RuptureE5 6c **1
66RaptureE4 6b ***14
67Plagued by Fools7b+ ***14
68Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***100
69Wall of BlutesE3 6a *7
70Conner's FollyE1 5b **96
71Just for Kicks7a *3
72Burslem Boys6c+ *12
74Half Man, Half Beard7a *25
75The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
76Rock Lobster8a **3
77Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **6
78John Paul and the Vatican 77c **6
79Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ * 
81Testament6c+ **99
82Talisman6c+ *17
83Touchstone6c+ *20
84Jungle JiveE2 5c 2
85Bored Games7a+ *5
86Aardvark StartV6 **5
87Norman DirectV7 **2
88Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+ 1
89Norman's Wisdom6c+ **60
90Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *25
91The Lyon King7a+ *9
92LipstickE5 F6c * 
93ItE2 5b *129
94Gold DiggerE2 5c 19
95Precious MetalE1 5b **278
97Midas TouchE4 6a *2
98Billy The Fish7c+ 1
99Magical Ring7a+ **23
100Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **17
101Pot of GoldE4 6a 3
102Pure Gold6c+ **32
103Capturing the Coelacanth7b **8
104Love Over GoldE3 6a *20
105AfterthoughtHVS 5a *2
106Goldeneye7b+ * 
107ZigHVS 5a 3
109Gold RushE6 6b ***4
110PlumblineE3 5c ***183
111Scary CanaryE5 6a ***39
112Really scary canaryE5 6a ** 
113FlakeawayE5 6b *15
114ZagHVS 5a 2
115The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
116Plumbline TraverseV5 **18
118Hot ClubE4 6a *2
119Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **74
120SussudioE3 6a 11
121ProspectorsE4 6a *10
122Price of GoldE4 6b **16
123Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
124Quicksilver7a ***68
125The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***6
126The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a 6
128Private InvestigationsE5 6b *8
129Too Low for ZeroE3 2
130KlondikeE3 6a **47
131Pocket CityE3 6a **30
132SourdoughE4 6a *6
133Iron in My Soul6c+ *4
134Solid GoldE3 6a ***69
135Captain Fingers7a+ **24
136FireflyE3 5c ***107
137Mr.Chips7a **60
138You've had Your Chips7b *16
139After the Gold Rush6c *3
140The Bar Spangled Banner6c *1
141Silver SurferE3 6a *29
142Cage full of Budgies7a 5
144Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
145No Arc, No Bark7a+ **39
146Excursion Direct6c+ **66
147Call It BlackE5 6a *10
148ExcursionE2 5b ***179
149The Arc of EternityE4 6a **13
150The VisionaryE4 6a **38
151Clear White LightE3 6a **41
152Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *3
153BeaverbrookE5 6a *2
154Pershing IIE2 5b 2
155Cruise MissileE2 5c 3
157Ivor Bigum7b+ **3
158Utter from the Gutter7c *4
159The Cold War7a *16
160Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a *110
161Insidious PracticesE2 5c *19
162Two-ton Caiman7b *12
163Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *11
164The Deep FixE2 5c 21
165Vic 20HVS 5b *48
166The Really Exciting ClimbVS 4c **76
167The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a 4
168Space InvadersE2 5b *19
169Astro BlasterE4 6a 1
170Paradise6c *9
171The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *4
173Stake Out7a *9
174Eliminator7a+ *13
175Methylated Laughter7a+ *8
176Adequate Compensation6b+ *14
177Big is Best6a+ *19
178Go for GoldE1 5b *14
179New Gold DreamE1 5b *23
180Fool's Gold6c 19
181Romancing the StoneE4 6b * 
182Golden ConfusionHVS 5a 7
183Passionate FriendE1 5b *43
184Bruno His WallHVS 5a *40
185UaebaE5 6b 2
186Sheik yer Money6c **46
187George Formby7a+ *14
188MasadaE5 6b *5
189Silage Time7a *29
190The Blood Red GameHVS 4c 3
191MeanstreakE5 6b 3
192Hom's PunkE5 6a **2
193The JehadE5 6b **4
195PilE1 5b 26
196Primrose WalkE2 5c **5
197Yellow BellyE3 5c 10
198BeachcomberHVS 5b 11
199Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *1
200Carinthian Groove8b  
201Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***14
202Mr. OlympiaE5 6a ***25
203Olympus TripE6 6b **4
204Iron Man7b *4
205Chain GangE5 6b ***41
206More GeniusE5 6a *15
207Precious TimeE4 6a **43
208Coiled SpineE1 5b 8
209The StirrerE2 5c 15
210KanlyE2 5c *60
211BauxedE1 5b *102
212Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
213Once in a Blue Moon6b+ 3
215Badger Badger Badger8a+ *2
216Dive, Dive, Dive7b **34
217Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *48
218White SeamE3 5c 1
219MelkorE3 5c *44
220Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **28
221Cornholio7b *5
222The Nut ClusterE4 6a 3
223The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***110
224String of Pearls6b+ ***289
225Pale ShelterE1 5b **166
226Second SenseE4 6a 1
227Lemon Entry6c 5
229Spine Chill6c+ *46
230Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *5
231Menincursion6c+ **35
232The Peppermint PigE3 6a *12
233Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *9
234The Lull7b 9
235Willowbrooks7a *4
236Storm Warning7a *21
237Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *10
238Drip, Drip, Drip6c **20
239Wet Dreams7a *16
240Captain Percival6a+ *109
241Clutching at Squaws6b *56
242Washington WaltzE5 6b  
243Salty DogE1 5b 2
244Pure ManiaE3 5c 1
245Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c 4
246Winterreise6b 13
247Secondhand Daylight6b+ **4
248Night-Time Rendezvous6c+ 5
249Nightwatch7a+ *1
250Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b * 
25222117a+ *7
253Ten Forty7a 5
254Karaoke Club7a+ **1
255Thin Red Line7a+ **3
256Blue Steel7c ** 
257Homosexual7b+ * 
258Candle in the Wind7a+ **1
259The Eleventh Hour6c  
260Sonic Sinbad7a *15
261The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *24
262Homo Erectus7b **13
263Homo Sapien7a+ ***70
264White Hopes7b ***24
265Snakes and Ladders7c+ ***1
266Sèverine7b+ **2
267After the FactE4 6b  
268Raw7a+ **1
269The Gold CoastE3 5c *23
270Watch Your Poison7b * 
271Loose LingoE4 6a  
273Absolute BeginnersE2 5b 3
274Frontiers of Reality6a+ 12
275Michelle's PillarE1 5b 6
276Small Bore6b+ *8
277Counting Crows7c  
278The Happening BoysE4 6a  
279Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a 2
280More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **1
281Physical Abuse7b+ *1
282Eco-Mouse7b *6
283Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *28
284Years of Abuse6b+ 9
285Reading Henry by the Road6a+ 28
287The SilmarillionE3 6a 1
288Squawk6b 1
289The Picnic7b+ ** 
290Jerusalem is Lost7a **9
291De Torquemada7b+ **1
292Slouching Towards Bethlehem7a+ **2
293The Wall Of Goutes6b 1
294Perthy Thrower6a 1
295Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6 3
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Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 29/Sep/2014

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