Pen Trwyn

Climbs 280 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 DUMBELL FLYER 
2Green Flash5c
3The Seagull Has Landed7b
4The Apostle7a+
5Hom Rescue6b *
6The Graduate6b *
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *
8Ring Peace7b+ *
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *
10The Breck Road7a+ *
11Tales of No Power7a+ *
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **
13The Mask7b+ *
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a
15Ace of Wands7b *
16The Damage Religion7b+ *
17Snakebite7b
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *
19Tomorrow People7c **
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *
 MUMBO JUMBO 
24Lizzy Askins7a+
25The Fly7b+ *
26Parting Shot6c+ *
27Brothers in Arms6c **
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **
29Tony's Route6a+ *
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *
31Fears for Tears6c *
32Fears For Beers6c+
33Shadows and Lights7b *
34Pink and Black6c *
35Purple Tight Fright6c
36The Triad6b+ *
37Taipan7b+ *
38Split Infinity6b+
39Simon Says8a **
40Split Infinity Direct6c+
 MAYFAIR 
42NostradamusE5 6a
43King KrankE5 6b **
44Body Torque7b+ *
45Body Torque Direct7c *
46Axle Attack7a+ ***
47Bloodsports7b ***
48The Bloods7a+ **
49Blood Lust7b+ **
50Contusion6c **
51Contusion Extension6c+ ***
52Senile Penile Extension7b+ **
53Mayfair7a+ **
54Julio Juvenito7a *
55Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b **
56Harry the Clamp7a+ *
57Masterplan8a+ ***
58The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***
59Masterclass7c+ ***
60Thunder RoadE6 6b **
61Oyster7c+ ***
62The Bearded Clam7a+ ***
63Reader's WivesE5 6b *
64Needle in the Groove7b+ ***
65RuptureE5 6c **
66RaptureE4 6b ***
67Plagued by Fools7b+ ***
68Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***
69Wall of BlutesE3 6a *
70Conner's FollyE1 5b **
71Just for Kicks7a *
72Burslem Boys6c+ *
 HANGING ROCK 
74The Wall Of Goutes6b
75Slouching Towards Bethlehem7b **
76De Torquemada7b+ **
77The Picnic7b+ **
78Jerusalem is Lost7a **
79Perthy Thrower6a
 THE CUTAWAY 
81Half Man, Half Beard7a *
82The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **
83Rock Lobster8a **
84Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **
85John Paul and the Vatican 77c **
86Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ *
 TESTAMENT 
88Testament6c+ **
89Talisman6c+ *
90Touchstone6c+ *
91Jungle JiveE2 5c
92Bored Games7a+ *
93Aardvark StartV6 **
94Norman DirectV7 **
95Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+
96Norman's Wisdom6c+ **
97Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *
98Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6
99The Lyon King7a+ *
100LipstickE5 F6c *
101ItE2 5b *
102Gold DiggerE2 5c
103Precious MetalE1 5b **
 LOVE OVER GOLD 
105Midas TouchE4 6a *
106Billy The Fish7c+
107Magical Ring7a+ **
108Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **
109Pot of GoldE4 6a
110Pure Gold6c+ **
111Capturing the Coelacanth7b **
112Love Over GoldE3 6a *
113AfterthoughtHVS 5a *
114Goldeneye7b+ *
115ZigHVS 5a
 PLUMBLINE 
117Gold RushE6 6b ***
118PlumblineE3 5c ***
119Scary CanaryE5 6a ***
120Really scary canaryE5 6a **
121FlakeawayE5 6b *
122ZagHVS 5a
123The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a
124Plumbline TraverseV5 **
 QUICKSILVER 
126Hot ClubE4 6a *
127Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **
128SussudioE3 6a
129ProspectorsE4 6a *
130Price of GoldE4 6b **
131Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *
132Quicksilver7a ***
133The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***
134The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a
 FIREFLY 
136Private InvestigationsE5 6b *
137Too Low for ZeroE3
138KlondikeE3 6a **
139Pocket CityE3 6a **
140SourdoughE4 6a *
141Iron in My Soul6c+ *
142Solid GoldE3 6a ***
143Captain Fingers7a+ **
144FireflyE3 5c ***
145Mr.Chips7a **
146You've had Your Chips7b *
147After the Gold Rush6c *
148The Bar Spangled Banner6c *
149Silver SurferE3 6a *
150Cage full of Budgies7a
 EXCURSION 
152Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **
153No Arc, No Bark7a+ **
154Excursion Direct6c+ **
155Call It BlackE5 6a *
156ExcursionE2 5b ***
157The Arc of EternityE4 6a **
158The VisionaryE4 6a **
159Clear White LightE3 6a **
160Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *
161BeaverbrookE5 6a *
162Pershing IIE2 5b
163Cruise MissileE2 5c
 DEEP FIX 
165Ivor Bigum7b+ **
166Utter from the Gutter7c *
167The Cold War7a *
168Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a *
169Insidious PracticesE2 5c *
170Two-ton Caiman7b *
171Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *
172The Deep FixE2 5c
173Vic 20HVS 5b *
174The Really Exciting ClimbVS 4c **
175The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a
176Space InvadersE2 5b *
177Astro BlasterE4 6a
178Paradise6c *
179The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *
 LOOKOUT AREA 
181Stake Out7a *
182Eliminator7a+ *
183Methylated Laughter7a+ *
184Adequate Compensation6b+ *
185Big is Best6a+ *
186Go for GoldE1 5b *
187New Gold DreamE1 5b *
188Fool's Gold6c
189Romancing the StoneE4 6b *
190Golden ConfusionHVS 5a
191Passionate FriendE1 5b *
192Bruno His WallHVS 5a *
193UaebaE5 6b
194Sheik yer Money6c **
195George Formby7a+ *
196MasadaE5 6b *
197Silage Time7a *
198The Blood Red GameHVS 4c
199MeanstreakE5 6b
200Hom's PunkE5 6a **
201The JehadE5 6b **
 CHAIN GANG 
203PilE1 5b
204Primrose WalkE2 5c **
205Yellow BellyE3 5c
206BeachcomberHVS 5b
207Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *
208Carinthian Groove8b
209Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***
210Mr. OlympiaE5 6a ***
211Olympus TripE6 6b **
212Iron Man7b *
213Chain GangE5 6b ***
214More GeniusE5 6a *
215Precious TimeE4 6a **
216Coiled SpineE1 5b
217The StirrerE2 5c
218KanlyE2 5c *
219BauxedE1 5b *
220Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c
221Once in a Blue Moon6b+
 YELLOW WALL 
223Badger Badger Badger8a+ *
224Dive, Dive, Dive7b **
225Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *
226White SeamE3 5c
227MelkorE3 5c *
228Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **
229Cornholio7b *
230The Nut ClusterE4 6a
231The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***
232String of Pearls6b+ ***
233Pale ShelterE1 5b **
234Second SenseE4 6a
235Lemon Entry6c
 BLACK WALL 
237Spine Chill6c+ *
238Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *
239Menincursion6c+ **
240The Peppermint PigE3 6a *
241Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *
242The Lull7b
243Willowbrooks7a *
244Storm Warning7a *
245Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *
246Drip, Drip, Drip6c **
247Wet Dreams7a *
248Captain Percival6a+ *
249Clutching at Squaws6b *
250Washington WaltzE5 6b
251Salty DogE1 5b
252Pure ManiaE3 5c
253Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c
254Winterreise6b
255Secondhand Daylight6b+ **
256Night-Time Rendezvous6c+
257Nightwatch7a+ *
258Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b *
 HOMO SAPIEN 
26022117a+ *
261Ten Forty7a
262Karaoke Club7a+ **
263Thin Red Line7a+ **
264Blue Steel7c **
265Homosexual7b+ *
266Candle in the Wind7a+ **
267The Eleventh Hour6c
268Sonic Sinbad7a *
269The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *
270Homo Erectus7b **
271Homo Sapien7a+ ***
272White Hopes7b ***
273Snakes and Ladders7c+ ***
274Sèverine7b+ **
275After the FactE4 6b
276Raw7a+ **
277The Gold CoastE3 5c *
278Watch Your Poison7b *
279Loose LingoE4 6a
 END OF THE ROAD 
281Absolute BeginnersE2 5b
282Frontiers of Reality6a+
283Michelle's PillarE1 5b
284Small Bore6b+ *
285Counting Crows7c
286The Happening BoysE4 6a
287Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a
288More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **
289Physical Abuse7b+ *
290Eco-Mouse7b *
291Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *
292Years of Abuse6b+
293Reading Henry by the Road6a+
 LOCATION UNKNOWN 
295The SilmarillionE3 6a
296Squawk6b
297Plagued by Anchovies6c+ *
298Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish *6b
299Planned Obsolescence *5c
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 29/Sep/2014
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