Pen Trwyn

Climbs 291 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
Pen Trwyn has established itself as the most popular sport climbing area in Wales. This is despite the strict access requirements which prevent climbing during some of the busiest times. The main reason for Pen Trwynâs popularity is that, with the exception of Portland, there is nowhere else in the country that climbers can enjoy so many high quality, well-bolted sport routes. However it isnât all sport routes since in amongst the bolts is a number of fine traditional challenges which add greatly to the appeal of the cliffs.

The situation above the marine drive makes for easy access but also limits climbing away from the popular holiday weekends and the school summer holidays.

Access notes
Get yourself to Llandudno and you canât miss the fine curving line of cliffs of Pen Trwyn on the headland to the west. To get onto the Marine Drive, turn left along the sea front and continue around to a toll gate. (The current toll here is £2.50 for cars. To avoid the toll arrive early or late. A season ticket can be bought you intend to come here more than three times a year). The cliffs start a little further along by the caves of the Dumbell Flyer Area. From here they are fairly continuous for the next mile and you can usually park roughly underneath your chosen sector, however take great care not to block the road.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 DUMBELL FLYER  
2Green Flash5c 66
3The Seagull Has Landed7b 2
4The Apostle7a+ 9
5Hom Rescue6b *57
6The Graduate6b *65
7Brewing Up with Phil Smith7a+ *10
8Ring Peace7b+ *1
9The Burning Sphincter7a+ *7
10The Breck Road7a+ *4
11Tales of No Power7a+ *17
12Bring Back Fred Gwynne7a **21
13The Mask7b+ *13
14Dumbell FlyerE4 6a 3
15Ace of Wands7b *3
16The Damage Religion7b+ *4
17Snakebite7b  
18Aerial Multigym7a+ *4
19Tomorrow People7c **17
20Harry's Zontal Band7b **3
21Werry's Woof Woot Left-hand7b *31
22Werry's Woof Woot7a+ *47
 MUMBO JUMBO  
24Lizzy Askins7a+ 1
25The Fly7b+ *4
26Parting Shot6c+ *9
27Brothers in Arms6c **44
28Mumbo Jumbo6a **174
29Tony's Route6a+ *51
30Tears as Souvenirs6b *96
31Tears as Souvenirs Direct Finish6b 3
32Fears for Tears6c *47
33Fears For Beers6c+ 1
34Shadows and Lights7b *1
35Pink and Black6c *13
36Purple Tight Fright6c 4
37The Triad6b+ *13
38Taipan7b+ *4
39Split Infinity6b+ 23
40Simon Says8a **5
41Split Infinity Direct6c+ 2
 MAYFAIR  
43NostradamusE5 6a 1
44King KrankE5 6b **43
45Body Torque7b+ *20
46Body Torque Direct7c **18
47Axle Attack7a+ ***265
48Bloodsports7b ***137
49The Bloods7a+ **224
50Blood Lust7c *4
51Contusion6c **377
52Contusion Extension6c+ ***40
53Senile Penile Extension7b+ *17
54Mayfair7a+ **164
55Julio Juvenito7a **99
56Julio Juvento Extension7a+ **5
57Carrigan's GrooveE5 6b *5
58Harry the Clamp7a+ *22
59Master Plan8a+ ***2
60The Disillusioned Screw MachineE6 6b ***17
61Masterclass7c+ ***3
62Thunder RoadE6 6b **1
63Oyster8a ***2
64The Bearded Clam7a+ ***52
65Reader's Wives7a+ ***5
66Needle in the Groove7c **9
67RuptureE5 6c **1
68RaptureE4 6b **15
69Plagued by Fools7b+ **15
70Anchovy MadonnaE3 5c ***107
71Wall of BlutesE3 6a *8
72Conner's FollyE1 5b **98
73Just for Kicks7a *3
74The Witches of Pen Trwyn7c+ *1
75Burslem Boys6c+ *12
 HANGING ROCK  
77The Wall Of Goutes6b 7
78Slouching Towards Bethlehem7b **3
79De Torquemada7b+ **1
80The Picnic7b+ ** 
81Jerusalem is Lost7a **9
82Perthy Thrower6a 7
 THE CUTAWAY  
84Half Man, Half Beard7a *27
85The Amazing Bearded Lady7b+ **13
86Rock Lobster8a **3
87Rodney God and the Oral Twins8b **6
88John Paul and the Vatican 77c **6
89Who Framed Roger Rabbi7b+ * 
 TESTAMENT TO PURE GOLD  
91Testament6c+ **111
92Talisman7a *19
93Touchstone6c+ **21
94Confuse the Aardvark7b  
95Jungle JiveE2 5c 2
96Bored Games7a+ *5
97Aardvark StartV6 **5
98Norman DirectV7 **3
99Norman's Wisdom Tooth6c+ *1
100Norman's Wisdom6c+ **65
101Hot Sexy Phone Talk6c+ *25
102Norman's Wisdom TraverseV6 5
103The Lyon King7a+ *12
104LipstickE5 F6c * 
105ItE2 5b *145
106Gold DiggerE2 5c 20
107Precious MetalE1 5b **301
108Midas TouchE4 6a *3
109Magical Ring7a+ **24
110Billy The Fish7c+ 1
111Gold 'n' Delicious7a+ **17
112Pot of Gold6c+ *4
113Pure Gold6c+ **35
114Capturing the Coelacanth7b **13
115Love Over GoldE3 6a *23
116AfterthoughtHVS 5a *2
117Goldeneye7b+  
118ZigHVS 5a 3
 PLUMBLINE  
120Wings of Perception7b+ ** 
121Gold RushE6 6b ***6
122PlumblineE3 5c ***198
123Scary CanaryE5 6a ***42
124Really scary canaryE5 6a **1
125FlakeawayE5 6b **15
126ZagHVS 5a 2
127The Stairs of Cirith UngolHS 4a 2
128Plumbline TraverseV5 **19
 QUICKSILVER  
130Hot ClubE4 6a *3
131Vagal InhibitionE2 5c **80
132SussudioE3 6a *12
133ProspectorsE4 6a *10
134Price of GoldE4 6b **16
135Price of Gold DirectE5 6b *3
136Quicksilver7a ***84
137The Electric Cool-aid Acid Test7b+ ***7
138The Alchemist's DreamE4 6a 6
 FIREFLY  
140Private InvestigationsE5 6b *8
141Too Low for ZeroE3 2
142KlondikeE3 6a **53
143Pocket CityE3 6a **34
144SourdoughE4 6a *6
145Sourdough DirectE5 6b * 
146Iron in My Soul6c+ *5
147Solid GoldE3 6a **73
148Captain Fingers7a+ **25
149FireflyE3 5c ***109
150Mr. Chips7a **68
151You've had Your Chips7b **18
152After the Gold Rush6c *13
153The Bar Spangled Banner6c *2
154Silver Surfer6c+ *35
155Cage full of Budgies7a 6
 EXCURSION  
157No Bark, No Drill7c ** 
158Barking Up the Wrong Tree7b **13
159No Arc, No Bark7a+ **47
160Excursion Direct6c+ **72
161Call It BlackE4 6a *10
162ExcursionE2 5b ***205
163The Arc of EternityE4 6a **13
164Swift GundercutE5 6a * 
165The VisionaryE3 6a **40
166Clear White LightE3 6a **44
167Clear White Light DirectE4 6a *3
168BeaverbrookE5 6a *2
169Pershing IIE2 5b 2
170Cruise MissileE2 5c 3
 DEEP FIX  
172Ivor Bigum7b *4
173Utter from the Gutter7c *5
174The Cold War7a *22
175Belay Bunny Bounces Back6a **123
176Insidious PracticesE2 5c *20
177Two-ton Caiman7b *13
178Welcome to the Power Bulge7b+ *11
179The Deep FixE1 5b *22
180Vic 20HVS 5b *49
181The Really Exciting ClimbVS 5a **77
182The Turquoise TurtleE3 6a *4
183Space InvadersE2 5b *20
184Astro BlasterE4 6a 1
185Paradise6c *11
186The Bounty HuntersE3 5c *4
 LOOKOUT AREA  
188Stake Out7a *9
189Eliminator7a+ *13
190Methylated Laughter7a+ *8
191Adequate Compensation6b+ *15
192Big is Best6a+ *21
193Go for GoldE1 5b *15
194New Gold DreamE1 5b *24
195Fool's Gold6c 21
196Romancing the StoneE4 6b * 
197Golden ConfusionHVS 5a 7
198Passionate FriendE1 5b *47
199Bruno His WallHVS 5a *40
200UaebaE5 6b 2
201Sheik yer Money6c **50
202George Formby7a+ *15
203MasadaE5 6b *5
204Silage Time7a *32
205The Blood Red GameHVS 4c 4
206MeanstreakE5 6b 4
207Hom's PunkE5 6a **3
208The JehadE5 6b **6
 CHAIN GANG  
210PilE1 5b 31
211Primrose WalkE2 5c **10
212Yellow BellyE3 5c 12
213BeachcomberHVS 5b 11
214Pen Trwyn PilotsE4 6b *1
215Corinthian Groove8b * 
216Foulish, Goulish7b+ ***14
217Mr. OlympiaE5 6b ***25
218Olympus TripE6 6b **4
219Iron Man7b **4
220Chain GangE5 6b ***42
221More GeniusE5 6b **16
222Precious TimeE4 6a *44
223Coiled SpineE1 5b 12
224The StirrerE2 5c 15
225KanlyE2 5b **63
226BauxedHVS 5a **106
227Reaving Slaying ConanVS 4c 2
228Once in a Blue Moon6b+ 5
 YELLOW WALL  
230Badger Badger Badger8a+ **2
231Dive, Dive, Dive7b **36
232Crunchy Toad IX7a+ *49
233White SeamE3 5c 1
234MelkorE3 5c *44
235Pen Trwyn PatrolE4 6a **31
236Cornhollio7b *5
237The Nut ClusterE4 6a 4
238The Pirates of Pen Trwyn6c+ ***119
239String of Pearls6b+ ***307
240Pale ShelterE1 5b **174
241Second SenseE4 6a 1
242Lemon Entry6c 5
 BLACK WALLS  
244Spine Chill6c+ *47
245Blackwall Tunnel7a+ *5
246Menincursion6c+ **36
247The Peppermint PigE3 6a *12
248Willowbrooks Direct7a+ *10
249The Lull7b 9
250Willowbrooks7a *4
251Storm Warning7a *21
252Drip, Drip, Drip Direct7a *11
253Drip, Drip, Drip6c **21
254Wet Dreams7a *17
255Captain Percival6a+ *113
256Clutching at Squaws6b *59
257Washington WaltzE5 6b  
258Salty DogE1 5b 3
259Pure ManiaE3 5c 1
260Lets lynch the landlordE2 5c 5
261Winterreise6b 15
262Secondhand Daylight6b+ **4
263Night-Time Rendezvous6c+ 5
264Nightwatch7a+ *1
265Dave's Rent-a-Drill CoE2 5b *1
 HOMO SAPIEN  
26722117a+ *7
268Ten Forty7a 5
269Karaoke Club7a+ **1
270Thin Red Line7a+ **3
271Blue Steel7c ** 
272Homo Sexual7b+  
273Candle in the Wind7a+ *1
274The Eleventh Hour6c  
275Sonic Sinbad7a *15
276The Thin Turquoise Line6c+ *24
277Homo Erectus7b **13
278Homo Sapien7a+ ***77
279White Hopes7b ***26
280Snakes and Ladders7c+ *1
281Sèverine7b+ *2
282After the FactE4 6b  
283Raw7a+ **1
284The Gold CoastE3 5c *23
285Watch Your Poison7b * 
286Loose LingoE4 6a  
 END OF THE ROAD  
288Absolute BeginnersE2 5b 3
289Frontiers of Reality6a+ 12
290Michelle's PillarE1 5b 6
291Small Bore6b+ *8
292Counting Crows7c  
293The Happening BoysE4 6a  
294Sucking the Short StrawE3 6a 2
295More Quizzical then Physical7b+ **1
296Physical Abuse7b+ *1
297Eco-Mouse7b *6
298Treat Me Like a Person6a+ *28
299Years of Abuse6b+ 9
300Reading Henry by the Road6a+ 28
 LOCATION UNKNOWN  
302The SilmarillionE3 6a 1
303Squawk6b 1
304Plagued by Anchovies6c+ *2
305Planned Obsolescence5c 1
306Cold Blood8a * 
307Bad Blood7c+ * 
308Fall BackE5 6b *1
309Ward 10E6 6b ** 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Needs a few more access notes surely?! ie Due to the increased number of visitors who are likley to be exposed to falling rock, climbing during bank holidayy weekends and during the period July 15th to Septemebr 8th is restricted until after 6pm in the evenings. The Mumbo-Jumbo and Parisellas Cave areas are not affected by these restrictions. And: Due to suspect rock and the proximity of the public road, climbing is only permitted on routes which are between the green painted marker posts and have fixed lower-offs. Routes and areas of cliff between the red painted posts are banned due to instable rock and the risk of falling rock injuring passers-by. All routes finish at BMC installed and maintained lower-offs - and on no account should climbers continue beyond these to the top of the crag due to the increased risk of falling rock and to protect rare and protected plant species. from BMC RAD
Bulls Crack - 28/Apr/13
A good venue when (typically) raining in the hills. A good venue for the aspiring E1 leader, with several soft touches at the grade.
Owen W-G - 05/Sep/08