Climbs 29 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
Actually a "chaotic scattering of craglets, wooded dells and pungent grottoes extending from Babbacombe beach, to the descent path which leads down in to Long Quarry Point. The area is more of a summer/autumn venue, although calm days during the winter and spring can give the crags more of an atmospheric feel"

Exile Buttress: A shady summer venue with a mix of trad and sport routes on generally sound rock(higher up some fragile rock can be found)Clip stick advisable and some long slings for the belayer to attach to insitu threads are useful as the ground below the crag shelves away quite quickly into steep bramble territory.

Approach notes
Park as for Long Quarry Point/Anstey's Cove.

Exile Buttress:Walk to the shelter as for long quarry point,turn left and walk 60m until you see a bench on the right.Duck through the wire fence and go 40m to a tree,turn left and follow a faint path down and slightly right for 40m .At 2 ivy covered trees turn right and follow another faint path towards some small rocks, keep close to these until you find a fixed rope, follow this to the crag.

South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Sea SlaterHS 4b 1
3SnoopyVS 4b  
4Love Not WarHVD *1
5Love Not War Variation 4aHS 4a 1
7Hardcore7a 10
8You Know the Score7a *22
9Rave to the grave6b 10
10The ExileE2 5b 3
11Me & My Magnum7a **29
12He Shoots He Scores7b+ 5
13Harlem Rude Boy6b **30
15The WakeE2 5b * 
16The KrakenVII+ **4
17Fear of FlyingE3 5c 1
18The Cabinet of Dr CaligariE5 6a * 
19IconoclastE2 5b **6
20NeophronE3 5c **5
21Fear of ghostsE5 6a **1
22Quantum of SolaceS 4a  
23Krapp's Last FakeVS 5a *1
24Fake's Last KrappHVS a1  
25All That FallHVS 5b *2
27Kermit's Evening SpecialE2 5b 1
28Siddaw BwurdaVD  
29Quick DipHVS 5a  
30Slanted CrackVB 4c 1
31Possession *E4 5c * 
32Eidolon *E1 5c  
33Spiritchaser *E3 5c ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer misterb

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Could Be Hardcore = Hardcore. Dig It = Rave To The Grave Only one trad line left on the cliff...The Exile!
tomrainbow - 16/Jun/15
The rope is back.
andy_pemberton - 12/Apr/15
Rope is no longer there to help you get down
JaffaCakes - 27/Mar/14
Exile buttress well worth a visit. Nowt like Anstey's. Rock reminiscent of Cheddar.
Paul Robertson - 18/Mar/14
There is a rope to help you get down towards the crag , literally just before you enter the crag , that's what the access descriptions means by fixed rope
JaffaCakes - 08/Jun/13
Been to Exile Buttress today. The newly bolted routes are definitely worth a visit. There is no fixed rope as described in the access notes.
Dale Turrell - 04/Jun/13