Babbacombe

Climbs 26 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
Actually a "chaotic scattering of craglets, wooded dells and pungent grottoes extending from Babbacombe beach, to the descent path which leads down in to Long Quarry Point. The area is more of a summer/autumn venue, although calm days during the winter and spring can give the crags more of an atmospheric feel"

Exile Buttress: A shady summer venue with a mix of trad and sport routes on generally sound rock(higher up some fragile rock can be found)Clip stick advisable and some long slings for the belayer to attach to insitu threads are useful as the ground below the crag shelves away quite quickly into steep bramble territory.

Access notes
Park as for Long Quarry Point/Anstey's Cove.

Exile Buttress:Walk to the shelter as for long quarry point,turn left and walk 60m until you see a bench on the right.Duck through the wire fence and go 40m to a tree,turn left and follow a faint path down and slightly right for 40m .At 2 ivy covered trees turn right and follow another faint path towards some small rocks, keep close to these until you find a fixed rope, follow this to the crag.

Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 LOVE NOT WAR SLAB 
2Sea SlaterHS 4b
3SnoopyVS 4b
4Love Not WarHVD *
5Love Not War Variation 4aHS 4a
 EXILE BUTTRESS 
7Could Be Hardcore7a
8HardcoreE5 6b **
9You Know the Score7a *
10Dig it6b
11Rave to the GraveE3 5c
12The ExileE2 5b
13Me & My Magnum7a **
14He Shoots He Scores7b+
15Harlem Rude Boy6b **
 GASKINGS ROCK AREA 
17The WakeE2 5b *
18The KrakenVII+ **
19Fear of FlyingE3 5c
20The Cabinet of Dr CaligariE5 6a *
21IconoclastE2 5b **
22NeophronE3 5c **
23Quantum of SolaceS 4a
24Krapp's Last FakeVS 5a *
25Fake's Last KrappHVS a1
26All That FallHVS 5b *
 WITHY POINT ROCKS 
28Kermit's Evening SpecialE2 5b
29Siddaw BwurdaVD
30Quick DipHVS 5a
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Rope is no longer there to help you get down
JaffaCakes - 27/Mar/14
Exile buttress well worth a visit. Nowt like Anstey's. Rock reminiscent of Cheddar.
Paul Robertson - 18/Mar/14
There is a rope to help you get down towards the crag , literally just before you enter the crag , that's what the access descriptions means by fixed rope
JaffaCakes - 08/Jun/13
Been to Exile Buttress today. The newly bolted routes are definitely worth a visit. There is no fixed rope as described in the access notes.
Dale Turrell - 04/Jun/13
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 31/Jan/2013

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