Actually a "chaotic scattering of craglets, wooded dells and pungent grottoes extending from Babbacombe beach, to the descent path which leads down in to Long Quarry Point. The area is more of a summer/autumn venue, although calm days during the winter and spring can give the crags more of an atmospheric feel"
Exile Buttress: A shady summer venue with a mix of trad and sport routes on generally sound rock(higher up some fragile rock can be found)Clip stick advisable and some long slings for the belayer to attach to insitu threads are useful as the ground below the crag shelves away quite quickly into steep bramble territory.
Park as for Long Quarry Point/Anstey's Cove.
Exile Buttress:Walk to the shelter as for long quarry point,turn left and walk 60m until you see a bench on the right.Duck through the wire fence and go 40m to a tree,turn left and follow a faint path down and slightly right for 40m .At 2 ivy covered trees turn right and follow another faint path towards some small rocks, keep close to these until you find a fixed rope, follow this to the crag.
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)
|LOVE NOT WAR SLAB|
|2||Sea Slater||HS 4b||1|
|4||Love Not War||HVD *||1|
|5||Love Not War Variation 4a||HS 4a||1|
|8||You Know the Score||7a *||22|
|9||Rave to the grave||6b||10|
|10||The Exile||E2 5b||3|
|11||Me & My Magnum||7a **||29|
|12||He Shoots He Scores||7b+||5|
|13||Harlem Rude Boy||6b **||30|
|GASKINGS ROCK AREA|
|15||The Wake||E2 5b *|
|16||The Kraken||VII+ **||4|
|17||Fear of Flying||E3 5c||1|
|18||The Cabinet of Dr Caligari||E5 6a *|
|19||Iconoclast||E2 5b **||5|
|20||Neophron||E3 5c **||5|
|21||Quantum of Solace||S 4a|
|22||Krapp's Last Fake||VS 5a *||1|
|23||Fake's Last Krapp||HVS a1|
|24||All That Fall||HVS 5b *||2|
|WITHY POINT ROCKS|
|26||Kermit's Evening Special||E2 5b||1|
|28||Quick Dip||HVS 5a|
|29||Slanted Crack||VB 4c||1|
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