Babbacombe

Climbs 27 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces SE

Crag features
Actually a "chaotic scattering of craglets, wooded dells and pungent grottoes extending from Babbacombe beach, to the descent path which leads down in to Long Quarry Point. The area is more of a summer/autumn venue, although calm days during the winter and spring can give the crags more of an atmospheric feel"

Exile Buttress: A shady summer venue with a mix of trad and sport routes on generally sound rock(higher up some fragile rock can be found)Clip stick advisable and some long slings for the belayer to attach to insitu threads are useful as the ground below the crag shelves away quite quickly into steep bramble territory.

Access notes
Park as for Long Quarry Point/Anstey's Cove.

Exile Buttress:Walk to the shelter as for long quarry point,turn left and walk 60m until you see a bench on the right.Duck through the wire fence and go 40m to a tree,turn left and follow a faint path down and slightly right for 40m .At 2 ivy covered trees turn right and follow another faint path towards some small rocks, keep close to these until you find a fixed rope, follow this to the crag.

Guidebooks
South Devon and Dartmoor (1995)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 LOVE NOT WAR SLAB  
2Sea SlaterHS 4b 1
3SnoopyVS 4b  
4Love Not WarHVD *1
5Love Not War Variation 4aHS 4a 1
 EXILE BUTTRESS  
7Hardcore7a 10
8You Know the Score7a *21
9Rave to the grave6b 10
10The ExileE2 5b 3
11Me & My Magnum7a **27
12He Shoots He Scores7b+ 4
13Harlem Rude Boy6b **29
 GASKINGS ROCK AREA  
15The WakeE2 5b * 
16The KrakenVII+ **2
17Fear of FlyingE3 5c  
18The Cabinet of Dr CaligariE5 6a * 
19IconoclastE2 5b **4
20NeophronE3 5c **4
21Quantum of SolaceS 4a  
22Krapp's Last FakeVS 5a *1
23Fake's Last KrappHVS a1  
24All That FallHVS 5b * 
 WITHY POINT ROCKS  
26Kermit's Evening SpecialE2 5b 1
27Siddaw BwurdaVD  
28Quick DipHVS 5a  
29Slanted CrackVB 4c 1
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Could Be Hardcore = Hardcore. Dig It = Rave To The Grave Only one trad line left on the cliff...The Exile!
tomrainbow - 16/Jun/15
The rope is back.
andy_pemberton - 12/Apr/15
Rope is no longer there to help you get down
JaffaCakes - 27/Mar/14
Exile buttress well worth a visit. Nowt like Anstey's. Rock reminiscent of Cheddar.
Paul Robertson - 18/Mar/14
There is a rope to help you get down towards the crag , literally just before you enter the crag , that's what the access descriptions means by fixed rope
JaffaCakes - 08/Jun/13
Been to Exile Buttress today. The newly bolted routes are definitely worth a visit. There is no fixed rope as described in the access notes.
Dale Turrell - 04/Jun/13