Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone

Faces SE

Macca Cruises Could Be Hardcore, Exile Buttress, Torquay © jezmiles

Crag features

Actually a "chaotic scattering of craglets, wooded dells and pungent grottoes extending from Babbacombe beach, to the descent path which leads down in to Long Quarry Point. The area is more of a summer/autumn venue, although calm days during the winter and spring can give the crags more of an atmospheric feel"

Exile Buttress: A shady summer venue with a mix of trad and sport routes on generally sound rock(higher up some fragile rock can be found)Clip stick advisable and some long slings for the belayer to attach to insitu threads are useful as the ground below the crag shelves away quite quickly into steep bramble territory.

Approach notes

Park as for Long Quarry Point/Anstey's Cove.

Exile Buttress:Walk to the shelter as for long quarry point,turn left and walk 60m until you see a bench on the right.Duck through the wire fence and go 40m to a tree,turn left and follow a faint path down and slightly right for 40m .At 2 ivy covered trees turn right and follow another faint path towards some small rocks, keep close to these until you find a fixed rope, follow this to the crag.

Could Be Hardcore = Hardcore. Dig It = Rave To The Grave Only one trad line left on the cliff...The Exile!
tomrainbow - 16/Jun/15
The rope is back.
andy_pemberton - 12/Apr/15
Rope is no longer there to help you get down
JaffaCakes - 27/Mar/14
Exile buttress well worth a visit. Nowt like Anstey's. Rock reminiscent of Cheddar.
Paul Robertson - 18/Mar/14
There is a rope to help you get down towards the crag , literally just before you enter the crag , that's what the access descriptions means by fixed rope
JaffaCakes - 08/Jun/13
Been to Exile Buttress today. The newly bolted routes are definitely worth a visit. There is no fixed rope as described in the access notes.
Dale Turrell - 04/Jun/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2Sea Slater
HS 4b 1
VS 4b  
4Love Not War
HVD *1
5Love Not War Variation 4a
HS 4a 1
7Hardcore7a 11
8You Know the Score7a *23
9Rave to the grave6b 10
10The ExileE2 5b 3
11Me & My Magnum7a **31
12He Shoots He Scores7b+ 7
13Harlem Rude Boy6b **32
15The Wake
E2 5b * 
16The Kraken
VII+ **4
17Fear of FlyingE3 5c 1
18The Cabinet of Dr Caligari
E5 6a * 
19IconoclastE2 5b **7
20NeophronE3 5c **5
21Fear of ghostsE5 6a **2
22Quantum of Solace
S 4a  
23Krapp's Last FakeVS 5a *1
24Fake's Last KrappHVS a1  
25All That FallHVS 5b *2
27Kermit's Evening Special
E2 5b 1
28Siddaw Bwurda
29Quick Dip
HVS 5a  
30Slanted CrackVB 1
31PossessionE4 5c *1
32EidolonE1 5c  
33SpiritchaserE3 5c **1
34The Holy HourE4 5c *1
35Phased *E1 5a *1
36Sea Slater Continuation *HVS 5a 1
37Fused With Higher - flake variation *E2 5c *1
38Happy when it rains *7b+ **1
39Kiss Chase *6a * 
40Undertow *6b+ * 
41De-Luxe *6b * 
42Anaconda *6a+ * 
43Anaconda Continuation *6b **1
44Mystery Meg *E2 5b *1
45At Sea *E3 5b/c 1
46When the Sun Hits *6b+ * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer misterb