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These details were last updated on 24/Sep/2013

Lower Pen Trwyn

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isnít Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isnít just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.

Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

2.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
9 °C
18 kph

0.4mm rain
10 °C
13 kph

1.3mm rain
Sunny periods
13 °C
24 kph

10.7mm rain
10 °C
21 kph

9.8mm rain
Mainly cloudy
11 °C
17 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Nameless6c+ 9
2That's Where I'll Be7a 6
3The Refrain7a+ **70
4Under the Boardwalk6c ***359
5On a Blanket with My BabyE3 5c 1
6She's a Beach7a 13
7Down by the Sea7a+ *21
8Life's a Beach7b 11
9The Ferret8b 1
10Melancholie8b **6
11Melancopout8a+ 4
12Bad Melons8a+  
13Melon Beach8a+ **1
14I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy7c ***89
15Pas de Deux8a+ *1
16Bad Beach7c+ *1
17Mussel Beach8a ***47
18Mussel Beach Extension8a 1
19Parasite8a *19
20Paratrooper8a+ *** 
21Battle of the Parasites7c+ *9
22Battle of the Little Big Orme8a+ **13
23Over the Moon8a ***8
24Over the Moon Direct8a **32
25Moonwalk8a+ ***5
26The Walking Mussel8b+ **3
27Megalopa8c+ *** 
28Seagull's Dilemma8b 1
29Sea of Tranquility8c+ ** 
30Liquid Ambar8c ***2
31The Big Bang9a *** 
32Infanticide8c ** 
33Wild Understatement8a+ **5
34Wild Youth8b *** 
 Climb nameGradex
35Youthanasia8b+ **1
36Statement of Youth8a ***28
37Rompsville7b+ **9
38A Fair Sized Fish7c ** 
39Night Glue7a+ ***183
40Martha7c **8
41Wall of Voodoo7a+ *24
42Jacuzzi JiveE4 6a **21
43Twisting by the PoolE4 6a **19
44Tokoloshe ManE2 5c 5
45Voodoo Child7a *29
46Passengers6a+ *34
47The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It7a **193
48Café Libre7c 1
49La Boheme7b ***32
50La Boheme Direct7b+ **7
51Libertango7b+ **16
52Mean Mother7b ***49
53Face Race7a+ ***129
54Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House6c+ *64
55New Moon on MondayE2 5c *5
56Goodbye Mickey Mouse6b *48
57Mr. Stormalong5+ *64
58Khashoggis Ship6b 16
59Bosch Bastards6b 53
60Kaffe Fasset6b+ **247
61Choss6b 10
62Skin Deep6a+ *195
63Waiting for the SpaceshipE3 6a 4
64Beauty is Only6a **243
65Skin Game6a+ **260
66Golden Pond5+ *215
67Dolphin Therapy6a+ 42
68The Water MarginHVS 5a *11
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Access notes
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you donít need to make any committing abseil to get there.

Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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Blog post/crag review of LPT:
a13x - 14/Aug/13