Lower Pen Trwyn

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isnít Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isnít just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.

Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Approach notes
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you don

Access notes
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you donít need to make any committing abseil to get there.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 UNDER THE BOARDWALK  
2Nameless6c+ *17
3That's Where I'll Be7a *8
4The Refrain7b **89
5Under the Boardwalk6c ***475
6On a Blanket with My BabyE3 5c 1
7She's a Beach7a *19
8Down by the Sea7a+ *41
9Life's a Beach7b *19
10Dark Angel8b 1
 OVER THE MOON  
12Melancholie8b ***7
13Melancopout8a+ 4
14Bad Melons8a+  
15Melon Beach8a+ **1
16I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy7c+ ***117
17Pas de Deux8a+ **1
18Bad Beach7c+ *1
19Mussel Beach8a **59
20Mussel Beach Extension8a 1
21Parasite8a **29
22Paratrooper8a+ ***1
23Battle of the Parasites7c+ *9
24Battle of the Little Big Orme8a ***14
25Over the Moon8a ***10
26Over the Moon Direct8a ***42
27Moonwalk8a+ **5
28The Walking Mussel8b+ ***3
29Megalopa8c+ ** 
30Seagull's Dilemma8b 1
31Sea of Tranquility8c+ *** 
32Liquid Ambar8c+ ***2
33The Big Bang9a *** 
34Infanticide8c *** 
 STATEMENT OF YOUTH  
36Wild Understatement8a+ **7
37Wild Youth8b *** 
38Youthanasia8b ***1
39Wild Statement8a ***1
40Statement of Youth8a ***47
41Rompsville7c **10
42A Fair Sized Fish7c+ * 
43Night Glue7a+ ***235
44Martha7c **10
45Wall of Voodoo7b *26
46Jacuzzi JiveE4 6a **22
47Twisting by the PoolE4 6a **21
48Tokoloshe ManE2 5c 7
49Voodoo Child7a *36
50Passengers6a+ 40
51The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It7a **214
52Cafť Libre7c+ *2
 FACE RACE  
54La Boheme7b ***41
55La Boheme Direct7b+ **7
56Libertango7b+ **20
57Mean Mother7b ***62
58Face Race7a+ ***151
59Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House6c+ *78
60New Moon on MondayE2 5c *6
61Goodbye Mickey Mouse6b *59
62Mr. Stormalong5c *78
63Khashoggis Ship6b 19
 KAFFE FASSET  
65Bosch Bastards6b 63
66Kaffe Fasset6b+ **293
67Choss6b 11
68Skin Deep6a+ *248
69Waiting for the SpaceshipE3 6a 4
70Beauty is Only6a **294
71Skin Game6a+ **302
72Golden Pond5c *252
73Dolphin Therapy6a+ *48
74The Water MarginHVS 5a *13
 ROUTES ADDED FROM ROCKFAX BOOK  
 UNDER THE BOARDWALK  
 OVER THE MOON  
 STATEMENT OF YOUTH  
 FACE RACE  
 KAFFE FASSET  
 LOWER PEN TRWYN RIGHT  
 DUTCHMAN  
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Blog post/crag review of LPT: http://thefinalpunt.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/the-great-orme-lower-pen-trwyn/
a13x - 14/Aug/13