Lower Pen Trwyn

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isnít Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isnít just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.

Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Access notes
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you donít need to make any committing abseil to get there.

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
36Wild Statement8a ***
37Statement of Youth8a ***
38Rompsville7b+ **
39A Fair Sized Fish7c **
40Night Glue7a+ ***
41Martha7c **
42Wall of Voodoo7a+ *
43Jacuzzi JiveE4 6a **
44Twisting by the PoolE4 6a **
45Tokoloshe ManE2 5c
46Voodoo Child7a *
47Passengers6a+ *
48The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It7a **
49Café Libre7c
50La Boheme7b ***
51La Boheme Direct7b+ **
52Libertango7b+ **
53Mean Mother7b ***
54Face Race7a+ ***
55Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House6c+ *
56New Moon on MondayE2 5c *
57Goodbye Mickey Mouse6b *
58Mr. Stormalong5c *
59Khashoggis Ship6b
60Bosch Bastards6b
61Kaffe Fasset6b+ **
62Choss6b
63Skin Deep6a+ *
64Waiting for the SpaceshipE3 6a
65Beauty is Only6a **
66Skin Game6a+ **
67Golden Pond5c *
68Dolphin Therapy6a+
69The Water MarginHVS 5a *
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Blog post/crag review of LPT: http://thefinalpunt.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/the-great-orme-lower-pen-trwyn/
a13x - 14/Aug/13