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These details were last updated on 05/Apr/2012

Lower Pen Trwyn

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isn’t Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isn’t just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.

Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Nameless6c+ 9
2That's Where I'll Be7a 6
3The Refrain7a+ **55
4Under the Boardwalk6c ***323
5On a Blanket with My BabyE3 5c 1
6She's a Beach7a 13
7Down by the Sea7a+ *20
8Life's a Beach7b 10
9Melancholie8b **6
10I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy7c ***77
11Pas de Deux8a+ *1
12Mussel Beach8a ***46
13Parasite8a *17
14Battle of the Parasites7c+ *9
15Battle of the Little Big Orme8a+ **13
16Over the Moon8a ***7
17Over the Moon Direct8a **29
18Moonwalk8a+ ***4
19The Walking Mussel8b+ **3
20Seagull's Dilemma8b 1
21Sea of Tranquility8c+ ** 
22Liquid Ambar8c ***2
23The Big Bang9a *** 
24Infanticide8c ** 
25Wild Understatement8a+ **4
26Youthanasia8b **1
27Statement of Youth8a ***29
28Rompsville7b+ **8
29A Fair Sized Fish7c ** 
30Night Glue7a+ ***156
31Martha7c **8
32Wall of Voodoo7a+ *24
33Jacuzzi JiveE4 6a **20
34Twisting by the PoolE4 6a **18
 Climb nameGradex
35Tokoloshe ManE2 5c 5
36Voodoo Child7a *29
37Passengers6a+ *32
38The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It7a **175
39Café Libre7c 1
40La Boheme7b ***27
41La Boheme Direct7b+ **7
42Libertango7b+ **16
43Mean Mother7b ***47
44Face Race7a+ ***120
45Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House6c+ *60
46New Moon on MondayE2 5c *5
47Goodbye Mickey Mouse6b *46
48Mr. Stormalong5+ *58
49Khashoggis Ship6b 16
50Bosch Bastards6b 49
51Kaffe Fasset6b+ **232
52Choss6b 10
53Skin Deep6a+ *180
54Waiting for the SpaceshipE3 6a 3
55Beauty is Only6a **204
56Skin Game6a+ **212
57Golden Pond5+ *203
58Dolphin Therapy6a+ 41
59The Water MarginHVS 5a *11
60petit france6a *21
61peppermint porpoise6a *26
62Melancopout *8a+ 3
63Melon Beach *8a+ ** 
64Bad Melons *8a+  
65The Ferret *8b 1
66Megalopa *8c+ *** 
67Wild Youth *8b *** 
68Paratrooper *8a+ *** 

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you don’t need to make any committing abseil to get there.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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