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These details were last updated on 24/Sep/2013

Lower Pen Trwyn

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 80 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces E

Crag features
If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isnít Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isnít just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.

Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Access notes
Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

The entire base of the cliff is cut off at high tide. You can see how high the water gets by the distinct tide line at about 3 or 4 metres. As the tide goes out the routes are revealed from the left-hand end first, with the last ones exposed for about 3 hours around low tide. This is all pretty obvious from the road above the crag and you donít need to make any committing abseil to get there.

Weather forecast

 Today  Wed  Thu  Fri  Sat 

1.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
22 kph

1.5mm rain
12 °C
21 kph

0.0mm rain
15 °C
23 kph

9.6mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
36 kph

21.7mm rain
13 °C
24 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Nameless6c+ 12
2That's Where I'll Be7a 8
3The Refrain7a+ **82
4Under the Boardwalk6c ***411
5On a Blanket with My BabyE3 5c 1
6She's a Beach7a 17
7Down by the Sea7a+ *29
8Life's a Beach7b 11
9The Ferret8b 1
10Melancholie8b **6
11Melancopout8a+ 4
12Bad Melons8a+  
13Melon Beach8a+ **1
14I've Been a Bad, Bad Boy7c ***105
15Pas de Deux8a+ *1
16Bad Beach7c+ *1
17Mussel Beach8a ***49
18Mussel Beach Extension8a 1
19Parasite8a *25
20Paratrooper8a+ *** 
21Battle of the Parasites7c+ *9
22Battle of the Little Big Orme8a **14
23Over the Moon8a ***10
24Over the Moon Direct8a **39
25Moonwalk8a+ ***5
26The Walking Mussel8b+ **3
27Megalopa8c+ *** 
28Seagull's Dilemma8b 1
29Sea of Tranquility8c+ ** 
30Liquid Ambar8c ***2
31The Big Bang9a *** 
32Infanticide8c ** 
33Wild Understatement8a+ **6
34Wild Youth8b *** 
35Youthanasia8b+ **1
 Climb nameGradex
36Wild Statement8a ***1
37Statement of Youth8a ***34
38Rompsville7b+ **9
39A Fair Sized Fish7c ** 
40Night Glue7a+ ***208
41Martha7c **10
42Wall of Voodoo7a+ *27
43Jacuzzi JiveE4 6a **22
44Twisting by the PoolE4 6a **20
45Tokoloshe ManE2 5c 6
46Voodoo Child7a *33
47Passengers6a+ *37
48The Pink Pinkie Snuffs It7a **209
49Café Libre7c 2
50La Boheme7b ***38
51La Boheme Direct7b+ **7
52Libertango7b+ **17
53Mean Mother7b ***57
54Face Race7a+ ***139
55Mad O'Rourke's Kipper House6c+ *71
56New Moon on MondayE2 5c *6
57Goodbye Mickey Mouse6b *54
58Mr. Stormalong5c *69
59Khashoggis Ship6b 18
60Bosch Bastards6b 58
61Kaffe Fasset6b+ **274
62Choss6b 11
63Skin Deep6a+ *215
64Waiting for the SpaceshipE3 6a 4
65Beauty is Only6a **268
66Skin Game6a+ **273
67Golden Pond5c *227
68Dolphin Therapy6a+ 42
69The Water MarginHVS 5a *12
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Blog post/crag review of LPT:
a13x - 14/Aug/13