Castell y Gwynt Conwy, WALES
Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces N
Set on the very tip of the Great Orme, Castell y Gwynt is one of the area's best kept secrets. The smooth sweeping wall capped by a huge overhang never fail to impress, and the dramatic position above a small grass ledge high above the sea heightens oneâs sense of awe. Bird restrictions, high winds, seepage, lack of sun and some very intimidating routes have not done much for the cragâs popularity. It is safe to say that in more friendly and accessible location, Castell y Gwynt would rank amongst the most visited limestone crags in Britain. However that would detract from some of its most appealing aspects: the exposure, the solitude and the sense of being completely 'out there' when only a few moves off the ground!
Receives only late evening sun (after about 20:30 in midsummer)
In general, all old bolts have been supplemented by new staples (placed 2000-2006?)
The Gwynt is situated below and east of the lighthouse. Park by the cafe and walk back down the road and into the lighthouse drive. Hop over the wall and turn left across the hillside to a plateau above the crag. On the left (looking out) of the plateau is a gully. Scramble down this and the wall is on your right.
A permanent nesting restriction sign is located at the top of the gully, which mistakenly specifies a permanent ban on the whole crag from 30th March to 31st July. The current BMC-agreed restriction is actually variable up to 30th June, depending upon whether peregrines nest in any particular year.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.
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North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)
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