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These details were last updated on 17/Dec/2013

Castell y Gwynt

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Set on the very tip of the Great Orme, Castell y Gwynt is one of the area's best kept secrets. The smooth sweeping wall capped by a huge overhang never fail to impress, and the dramatic position above a small grass ledge high above the sea heightens oneâs sense of awe. Bird restrictions, high winds, seepage, lack of sun and some very intimidating routes have not done much for the cragâs popularity. It is safe to say that in more friendly and accessible location, Castell y Gwynt would rank amongst the most visited limestone crags in Britain. However that would detract from some of its most appealing aspects: the exposure, the solitude and the sense of being completely 'out there' when only a few moves off the ground!

Receives only late evening sun (after about 20:30 in midsummer)

In general, all old bolts have been supplemented by new staples (placed 2000-2006?)

Access notes
The Gwynt is situated below and east of the lighthouse. Park by the cafe and walk back down the road and into the lighthouse drive. Hop over the wall and turn left across the hillside to a plateau above the crag. On the left (looking out) of the plateau is a gully. Scramble down this and the wall is on your right.

A permanent nesting restriction sign is located at the top of the gully, which mistakenly specifies a permanent ban on the whole crag from 30th March to 31st July. The current BMC-agreed restriction is actually variable up to 30th June, depending upon whether peregrines nest in any particular year.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

4.0mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
16 kph

9.6mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
15 kph

8.4mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
15 °C
11 kph

0.7mm rain
Sun
17 °C
10 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
North Wales Climbs (2013), North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 CASTELL Y GWYNT LEFT  
2Trade WindsE5 6b * 
3SpacewalkE4 5c ** 
4Opal MoonE4 6a ***9
 CASTELL Y GWYNT CENTRAL  
6Teenage KicksE6 6b *** 
7Psychic ThresholdE5 6b ***10
8SidekickE6 6a *** 
9The Long Goodbye7b+ **5
10Blast PeruE5 6b ***1
11Central Pillar8a ***2
12The Bittersweet ConnectionE5 6b *** 
13No Plas Like HomeE6 6b *** 
14Plas BerwE5 6b ***2
 Climb nameGradex
 CASTELL Y GWYNT RIGHT  
16New DimensionsE4 6a ***49
17Telegraph RoadE5 6b *** 
18Good Taste!E5 6b ** 
19Bad Taste!E5 6c  
20Nouvelle Cuisine7b+ **3
21Hidden Sign7b+ **25
22Alternative ThreeE5 6b  
23Cruella Deville7a+ ***18
24The ExileE5 6a **5
25DemosHVS 5a 1
26Fosse WayE4 6b ** 
27Appian WayE2 5c ***36
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