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These details were last updated on 02/Aug/2008

Castell y Gwynt

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 30 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Set on the very tip of the Great Orme, Castell y Gwynt is one of the area's best kept secrets. The smooth sweeping wall capped by a huge overhang never fail to impress, and the dramatic position above a small grass ledge high above the sea heightens oneâs sense of awe. Bird restrictions, high winds, seepage, lack of sun and some very intimidating routes have not done much for the cragâs popularity. It is safe to say that in more friendly and accessible location, Castell y Gwynt would rank amongst the most visited limestone crags in Britain. However that would detract from some of its most appealing aspects: the exposure, the solitude and the sense of being completely 'out there' when only a few moves off the ground!

Receives only late evening sun (after about 20:30 in midsummer)

In general, all old bolts have been supplemented by new staples (placed 2000-2006?)

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Trade WindsE5 6b * 
2SpacewalkE4 5c ** 
3Opal MoonE4 6a ***6
4Teenage KicksE6 6b *** 
5SidekickE6 6a *** 
6Psychic ThresholdE5 6b ***9
7The Long GoodbyeE6 6b **3
8Blast PeruE5 6b ***1
9Central Pillar7c+ *** 
10The Bittersweet ConnectionE5 6b *** 
11No Plas Like HomeE6 6b *** 
12Plas BerwE5 6b ***2
 Climb nameGradex
13New DimensionsE4 6a ***40
14Good Taste!E5 6b ** 
15Bad Taste!E5 6c  
16Nouvelle Cuisine7b+ **1
17Hidden Sign7b+ **25
18Alternative ThreeE5 6b  
19Cruella Deville7a+ ***17
20The ExileE5 6a **4
21DemosHVS 5a 1
22Appian WayE2 5c ***29
23Fosse WayE4 6b ** 
24Telegraph RoadE5 6b *** 
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Access notes
The Gwynt is situated below and east of the lighthouse. Park by the cafe and walk back down the road and into the lighthouse drive. Hop over the wall and turn left across the hillside to a plateau above the crag. On the left (looking out) of the plateau is a gully. Scramble down this and the wall is on your right.

A permanent nesting restriction sign is located at the top of the gully, which mistakenly specifies a permanent ban on the whole crag from 30th March to 31st July. The current BMC-agreed restriction is actually variable up to 30th June, depending upon whether peregrines nest in any particular year.
Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

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