Climbs 140
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 118m a.s.l
Faces N

Observatory Buttress Great Orme Wales © Franziska Hauk (DaV Hamburg)

Crag features

The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.

Approach notes

There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the

Access Advice

No issues reported.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 seal point 
2Doldrums
-
E2 5c ** 
3Crigyll Outlaws
-
E1 5b ***9
4Grip Master
-
6c * 
5Banana Skin
-
6c+ * 
6Xlendi
-
6c * 
7Trail of a Tear
-
6a+ *2
 Craig Pen Gogarth 
9Trophy Wives of the Astronauts6c **12
10Arcophobia7c ***8
11Red Meat7b ***19
12Red Feat7b *1
13Death by a Thousand Cuts
-
6c+ *2
14Hoe Down
-
E2 5c 2
15Eye of the Hurricane7a *1
16Sara's Wall7a *2
17The Ormesman7a+ **2

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