Lighthouse Crags Conwy, WALES
Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces N
The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.
There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the ‘cafe’ by the Lighthouse Hotel. Once on the Marine Drive you can’t really miss the hotel drive entrance as you continue on the main lower road from Pen Trwyn. The parking by the cafe is often closed, as is the cafe, however the road is very wide here and there is plenty of space for a car or two. For busier times there is another car park further along the Drive on the left. the crags are all situated on the slopes below and around this cra park.
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Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)
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