Lighthouse Crags

Climbs 140 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 118m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
The cliffs around the Lighthouse on the Great Orme are as big and intimidating as anywhere and they are often tricky to get to but the rewards are high. For the new router, Un-named Crag is the place to head for. A petrol drill and a very long ab-rope will give you a free choice of 20 or 30 top quality sport routes. For the sport climber check out Seal Point, Crescent Buttress and the Turdon Gorge. All have good well-bolted routes at amenable grades. The explorer will probably want to take a look at Craig Pen Gogarth but be prepared for a smelly time. The cragger should go to Observatory Buttress, Craig Arwahan, the St. Tudno’s Buttresses and Central Buttress, in that order. It is probably a good idea to leave Point Five Buttress well alone.

Access notes
There are two main parking areas for the Lighthouse cliffs, both situated near the ‘cafe’ by the Lighthouse Hotel. Once on the Marine Drive you can’t really miss the hotel drive entrance as you continue on the main lower road from Pen Trwyn. The parking by the cafe is often closed, as is the cafe, however the road is very wide here and there is plenty of space for a car or two. For busier times there is another car park further along the Drive on the left. the crags are all situated on the slopes below and around this cra park.

Guidebooks

Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 SEAL POINT  
2DoldrumsE2 5c ** 
3Crigyll OutlawsE1 5b ***4
4Grip Master6c * 
5Banana Skin6c+ * 
6Xlendi6c * 
7Trail of a Tear6a+ *2
 CRAIG PEN GOGARTH  
9Trophy Wives of the Astronauts6c **3
10Arcophobia7c ***5
11Red Meat7b ***10
12Red Feat7b *1
 CRESCENT BUTTRESS  
14ItitiationHVS 5a *1
15Blade Runner6c  
16Fetch My Pipe and Slippers6c  
17Nobody's Fault but Mine6b *1
 OBSERVATORY BUTTRESS CENTRAL  
19A Nude Place to Creep6b+ *4
20Watcher in the Woods6c **3
21When the Lyon Feeds6c+ **11
22Wind and Wurrying6b *9
 THE HORNBY CRAGS  
 WEST FACE  
25Emus in the Zone6c+ *1
26Old Skool6b+ *2
27Klass Act6b *2
 STICKY MIX WALL  
29Sundowner6a *10
30Woo Woo6a+ 9
31Blue Moon6b *12
32Neon Noon6b **15
33Sticky Mix6b+ *7
34Rocky Road7a **5
35Rough Rider6b+ **11
36Old Guys Rule7b *1
37Black Dahlia6b+ **6
38Black Iris6b 4
39Black Orchid6a+ 5
40Flight of the Elf6b 1
41The Poet Prolapse6b 1
42The Chunky Chin Man6b+  
43Opus Pistorum7b **2
44Back on Track7a *2
45Flash - Pumped!7a *1
46A Present from Dave *6a+ 1
47Stiff End *6a+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Luke Owens

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