The Little Orme

Climbs 130 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features

The Little Orme must be the worst named crag in the world; the place is enormous! - there is nothing ‘little’ about it at all.

The size and extent of the walls are indeed very striking but when coupled with the difficulty of reaching the base of many of the routes you have a crag which contrasts even more starkly with its better known neighbour. There’s no belaying from the car here; it’s more about carefully timed tidal approaches, complex abseils, hanging stances above the sea and special pre-preparation of escape routes. Of course all this effort does have its rewards. The routes are wild, exposed and in the most splendid of situations. There are few places in the country where you can delight in sport routes of the quality of Ocean of Emotion, Long Ago and Far Away and Wall of Evening Light, which require a degree of commitment more usually associated with the Main Cliff at Gogarth than with bolt clipping. There are more accessible crags like Craig y Don - Upper and Manor Crag. The former is particularly interesting and worth considering for anyone in search of quality routes in afternoon sunshine. But the main focus on the Little Orme is the big seaward walls with their big seaward routes.

Approach notes

The approaches for most of the Little Orme Crags are long and complex. You should only attempt them armed with the best information in the guidebook. The parking spot for the lower walls is on the sea front road from Llandudno to Rhôs, just before the houses begin again, right next to the beach. For the upper crags and Atlanta/Detritus and Great Zawn areas, continue along the sea front on the Llandudno to Rhôs road, under the south side of the Little Orme. Just before a short section of dual carriageway leads downhill, turn right down a small side road and park on the left. From these parking spots you can walk easily over the top of the Orme.

Read more... Regional Access notes are available from the BMC.

North Wales Rock (2006),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997), North Wales Limestone (1987)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
2Mur yr OgofE3 6a **1
3QuietusE2 5c **13
4Old SamE3 6a **3
5The Glass WallE2 5b, 5c **4
7Haliborange6c *2
8Vitamin Sea6b+ **6
9Blue Avenue6b **7
10Sacrifice7a+ **4
11E7c ***1
12Alberta Rose7c ***3
13Ocean of Emotion7b+ ***5
15Hole Of CreationE3 6a **21
16The Magic Flute7c ***4
17Nordkapp LineHVS 5a 4
18The Mad Hatter6c * 
19The Mower7a+  
20Back to the Egg7a+  
21Cysgod yr Ddraig7b  
22Slime Crime7c ** 
23Dr. Sex7b+ ** 
24View from a Park Bench7b  
26Gillie's GrooveHVS 5a 1
28Floppy's ReachV3 *12
29BreezeblockV6 **2
30Caveman Low Startf7C+ *2
31CavemanV8 *3
32Patch's ProblemV6 *3
33Rocket In A PocketV7 *2
34Cave Wall P6V7 1
35The Weakest LinkV8+ * 
37WeirdoV8+ **2
38Too Pumpy for GumpyV8 * 
39Rampant RabbitV7 ** 
40Bulging Wall P4V3 *5
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