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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref NO 944976 (OS Landranger #38,45)

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These details were last updated on 18/Oct/2011

Orchestra Cave

Aberdeenshire, SCOTLAND

Climbs 12 – Rocktype Schist – Altitude 5m a.s.l – Faces E

Crag features
This is the big cave just south of Boglesheugh. The cave is home to some of the best sport climbing in Scotland up the incredibly steep back wall. Many of the lines have been equipped and development continues in the gaps between the established lines.

The cave throngs with birds in the summer but many of the routes remain clean despite this. Other routes will require the removal of some debris on the first ascents of the autumn.

North East Outcrops describes the original route in the cave, Unchained Melody, as well as giving a full description of the approach.

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More: mwis: Cairngorms & Monadhliath

Guidebooks
North East Outcrops (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1Bassoon7a+ ***7
2Double Basoon7c  
3Crescendo8a+ ***5
4Bang Tidy8b ***1
5Air On A G String7c **7
6Air on a G String extension.8a ***1
 Climb nameGradex
7Dangleberries (First lower-off)7c+ ***3
8Dangleberries8a+ ***1
9Blobstrop8a  
10Unchained MelodyE5 6a **1
11Bittersweet Symphony7b 1
12ResonateE4 5c 1
Access notes
Park in Findon and approach as for Boglesheugh. It is best to abseil from a big block slightly south of the top anchor bolts, leaving the rope in place to aid your exit at the end of the day.

Classifieds
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