Climbs 17
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces E

Greg Boswell on the route Dangleberries at Orchestra Cave © Ecosse Images

Crag features

This is the big cave just south of Boglesheugh. The cave is home to some of the best sport climbing in Scotland up the incredibly steep back wall. Many of the lines have been equipped and development continues in the gaps between the established lines.

The cave throngs with birds in the summer but many of the routes remain clean despite this. Other routes will require the removal of some debris on the first ascents of the autumn.

North East Outcrops describes the original route in the cave, Unchained Melody, as well as giving a full description of the approach.

Approach notes

Park in Findon and approach as for Boglesheugh. It is best to abseil from a big block slightly south of the top anchor bolts, leaving the rope in place to aid your exit at the end of the day. Beware of rope abrasion on the sharp edges.

The chimney slightly further south provides an easy escape route to climb out from. The bottom 2 meters is the hardest, beware of the pigeon lurking in the back of the chimney especially if soloing out!

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Climbs at this crag

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