Climbs 27
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 5m a.s.l
Faces E

Greg Boswell on the route Dangleberries at Orchestra Cave © Ecosse Images

Crag features

The jewel in the crown of the north east coasts sport cliffs. The cliff faces due east and is essentially a shallow cave with the roof of the cave set at about 50 degrees. However unlike so many other steep cliffs of micro schist along the coast it is generally excellent quality and uniquely laced with at fine red granite for extra interest. In some places the red granite pushes through the schist in tufa like formations which provides the finest routes (Blobstrop and Air on a G String). On the right side of the cave is an impressive wall of red granite overhanging at about 50 to 60 degrees.

 

 

A visit is not recommended in the nesting season due to the volume and stench of the summer residents although Air on a G string and Crescendo are bird free and the nest on other routes could be avoided. For optimum conditions it is best to visit on sunny cool mornings in spring and autumn when the sun is lower in the sky and can penetrate its rays deep in to the cave. However a good workout can be had on breezy fresh days but beware of the swell. Although the routes aren’t affected by the tide access to them is! 

Approach notes

From the A90 just north of Portlethen follow signs to Findon village drive through the village and park considerately on the last road on the right (old in road). Take the track leading down the left side of the first house until a grassy track leads off right down onto the moor. Follow this east until it bends south at a low broken dyke and cross the fence here into the field and head south east across this field and through a gap in the dyke. Now head due east to cross a fence onto the headland trend down and left until a block with rope threads is reached. It is possible to abseil in here to reach the routes at high tide as long as there is no swell or you can abseil in directly above Dangleberries from old bolts (make a judgment on their condition) in a big block to the left low tide required. Egress is either 1) climb the rock up the line of the ab rope using the ab rope as a back up (about E1) 2) ascend the ab rope (rope ascenders needed be careful of sharp edges) 3) soloing a V Diff chimney 10m South of the Ab point. None should be taken lightly!

 

 

On the far left looking into the cave are some short but worthwhile warm up routes.

Access Advice

Please be considerate when parking and make sure you are not blocking driveways etc.

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