This crag was said to be used to hang criminals on the top of as an example for all to see. Luckily this isnít done much these days and the top off the crag is now just a popular spot to watch the traffic (jams) on the A55. The routes themselves are on perfect solid rhyolite with plenty of positive holds and amazing pockets. Fiendish Beanish can probably claim to be the best bolted route on mountain rhyolite in North Wales!
The 2 sport routes Leaning Jowler and Fiendish Beanish were fully re-bolted by Ryan McConnell in 2010. He also installed lower-offs and on the belay ledge, a cable handrail along with extra bolts.
The crag is within Conwy Mountain - Countryside site and is mapped as open access under the CROW act.
Come off the A55 at J17. Head towards Conwy Mountain and after crossing over the the A55 and the railway bridges immediately turn right and park 100m down the road. Double back and take a path up towards the crag. Either reach it from below via a slightly dodgy scramble or go over the top and drop down to a wide ledge and the cable from the left of the crag.
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|I put some old rope on the approach after seeing someone slip on the greasy rock step and nearly fall down the grass gully. Feel free to tidy it up as necessary. Would be good to replace it with steel cable at some point, although it might give the impression that it's 'ok' for kids to start scrambling around and get climbers in trouble.|
Dan724 - 09/Sep/12
|A great piece of rock. Far better in reality than the grimy looking picture in the guidebook suggests. Also, provided you bring a beer towel or similar to dry the uppermost jugs, the crag is permanently dry.|
Dan724 - 17/Aug/12
|just finished re-bolting fiendish beamish, now has two extra bolts and new lower off. leaning jowler is now a full clip up finishing up fiendish and using its lower off. have also installed handrail along windy ledge. ENJOY!|
spidey - 27/Sep/10
|went for a visit yesterday... is pretty cool and feels like ur on a high pitch of a mountain route... problem is the bolts are very poor. we started up leaning jowler and decided that the bolts where too dodgy.|
adam06 - 08/Aug/10