Penmaenbach Quarry

Climbs 43 – Rocktype Diorites – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
This rather enigmatic venue features compact rock with good friction and the routes are suprisingly good. In recent years the lower quarry (where most of the routes are) has had a complete makeover. The original rusty bolts have been replaced, extra bolts have been installed due to high starting bolts and full lower-offs have been fitted throughout. The upper quarry offers some much longer and harder routes.

Access notes
Turn off the A55 at J17. Drive towards Conwy and take the second on the right, just after crossing over the railway. This dead end is the old A55. Park at the end before a gate. Cross the stile and head rightwards, gently rising up the hillside. You are aiming for the old winding house above an incline. Go through the winding house and stay on the same level to access the lower quarry. For the upper quarry go up the next incline.

Guidebooks
North Wales Limestone (2014), A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 THE LOWER QUARRY  
2Kato5c *96
3The poor route / Catalan6c 3
4Rambling Jack6b *52
5Hitachi Arete6a+ **68
6Tricky Dickie7a **40
7National Disaster6a 89
8Bass4c 7
9Samoa6a *55
10Playboys6a+ **40
11A Long Way To Fall5a 4
12Crack ClimbVD 4
 THE UPPER QUARRY  
14Wiser6b+ 2
15The Birdman of Minffordd6c 3
16The Gruffalo6c+  
17Slab Tony Chamonix8a 4
18the shouting stageE5 6a *3
19Map of the Problematique7a ***19
 LAST BUT ONE LEVEL  
21Pendulum Corner5c *16
22Big A55 Arête6b *35
23Agent Orange6a 25
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very enjoyable thanks for all the work that's been put in by the climber's who've done the hard work. The approach from the Sychnant Pass makes a day here very pleasant.
jim jones - 03/May/14
Thanks to everyone who has contributed time, effort and money into the new routes. They are all excellent additions and are slowly turning the venue from a slightly obscure footnote into a crag that's well worth visiting. Good work!
Dan724 - 11/Sep/12
Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building – this is the ‘last but one level’. 10-15 minutes walk from road to crag.
ian Ll-J - 27/Jul/12
Follow this link for a Topo for the new routes on the 'last but one level'.... http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/07/26/penmaenbach-quarry-half-a-dozen-new-sport-routes-f5-%e2%80%93-f7a/
ian Ll-J - 26/Jul/12
A nice little crag with a good range of mid-level grades. Some of the harder routes feel similar to slate due to the bridging moves and nature of the holds.
Dan724 - 11/Mar/12
Surprisingly good. Did the right hand 6a, which is well worth it. Then did the "easy" 4 plus to the left, which was not at all straight forward. Good dry rock, close to the road, but cold after a few hours.
Tim Davies - 05/Apr/05