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These details were last updated on 21/Dec/2011

Penmaenbach Quarry

Conwy, WALES

Climbs 32 – Rocktype Diorites – Altitude ? – Faces N

Crag features
This rather enigmatic venue features compact rock with good friction and the routes are suprisingly good. In recent years the lower quarry (where most of the routes are) has had a complete makeover. The original rusty bolts have been replaced, extra bolts have been installed due to high starting bolts and full lower-offs have been fitted throughout. The upper quarry offers some much longer and harder routes.

Access notes
Turn off the A55 at J17. Drive towards Conwy and take the second on the right, just after crossing over the railway. This dead end is the old A55. Park at the end before a gate. Cross the stile and head rightwards, gently rising up the hillside. You are aiming for the old winding house above an incline. Go through the winding house and stay on the same level to access the lower quarry. For the upper quarry go up the next incline.

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.5mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
21 kph

0.4mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
19 kph

2.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
17 kph

9.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
18 kph

0.4mm rain
Cloudy
16 °C
13 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online
More: Met Office: Snowdonia

Guidebooks
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010),
Out of print: North Wales Limestone - Fax08 (1997)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE LOWER QUARRY  
2Kato5c *86
3The poor route / Catalan6c  
4Rambling Jack6b *49
5Hitachi Arete6a+ **63
6Tricky Dickie7a **36
7National Disaster6a 81
8Bass4c 7
9Samoa6a *48
10Playboys6a+ **34
11A Long Way To Fall5a 4
12Crack ClimbVD 4
 THE UPPER QUARRY  
14Wiser6b+ 2
15The Birdman of Minffordd6c 3
16The Gruffalo6c+  
17Slab Tony Chamonix8a 4
18the shouting stageE5 6a *3
 Climb nameGradex
19Map of the Problematique7a ***17
 LAST BUT ONE LEVEL  
21Pendulum Corner5c *16
22Big A55 Arête6b *33
23Agent Orange6a 23
24Orange County7a 2
25Easy Peeler6c 1
26Prelude to a Pint6c **4
27The Whole of the Law6c **5
28Hard Times6c **1
29Rejoice6a+ *1
30Uluru Magic7a *13
31A55 hole Arête5a *68
32Jefferson Slab6a *82
33Y Clip Aur6a **74
34A55 Crack6c **65
35Kiss my A55 Slab7a *24
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Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Very enjoyable thanks for all the work that's been put in by the climber's who've done the hard work. The approach from the Sychnant Pass makes a day here very pleasant.
jim jones - 03/May/14

Thanks to everyone who has contributed time, effort and money into the new routes. They are all excellent additions and are slowly turning the venue from a slightly obscure footnote into a crag that's well worth visiting. Good work!
Dan724 - 11/Sep/12

Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building – this is the ‘last but one level’. 10-15 minutes walk from road to crag.
ian Ll-J - 27/Jul/12

Follow this link for a Topo for the new routes on the 'last but one level'.... http://news.v12outdoor.com/2012/07/26/penmaenbach-quarry-half-a-dozen-new-sport-routes-f5-%e2%80%93-f7a/
ian Ll-J - 26/Jul/12

A nice little crag with a good range of mid-level grades. Some of the harder routes feel similar to slate due to the bridging moves and nature of the holds.
Dan724 - 11/Mar/12

Surprisingly good. Did the right hand 6a, which is well worth it. Then did the "easy" 4 plus to the left, which was not at all straight forward. Good dry rock, close to the road, but cold after a few hours.
Tim Davies - 05/Apr/05