Celt (aged 10) on the First Ascent of 'Y Clip Aur' F6a © ian Ll-J
An increasingly popular sport climbing venue which commands spectacular views over the sea towards the Great Orme. Over recent years a good number of well bolted sport climbs have been added across the spread of grades from F2 to F8a.
Stand out routes include 'Slab Tommy Chamonix' 8a, 'The Shouting Stage' E5 6a and 'Map of the Problematique' F6c+
'Lower Level' - An easily accessible and sheltered level with a number of clip ups from F5+ to F7a
'Main Slab' - An impressive 40 metre slab of excellent quality Micro Diorite F6b - F8a + trad E5.
'The Last Butt One Level' - A well positioned level with a really pleasant walk in from the Sychnant Pass + a range of sport clip ups from F2 to F7a.
Last Butt One Level:
Access is best from the Sychnant Pass side (as opposed to the route up from the bottom described in the A55 guide). Park at the Sychnant Pass car park and follow the track to a ford and black gate; continue along the North Wales Path, carrying straight on at a track crossing. At a lone birch tree next to a wooden bench a path leads down to the quarry. Aim for the big flat plateau with a lone brick quarry building