Climbs 200
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces N

Jordan Buys on Reservoir Dogs (E8 7a) © Alastair Lee - Posingproductions.com

Crag features

5 Guidebooks with different names for all the Boulders!!!!

Nightmare

I have stuck with Names and Numbers from Yorkshire Gritstone and Leeds wall Mini guide (Cameron-Duff guide numbers in brackets) Good Luck

One of the few crags in Britain to go all the way up the grade scale. Also offers excellent bouldering. Its north-facing nature can leave it green in winter.

Approach notes

Obvious access from parking spaces by the adjacent reservoir. To get to Widdop Drums just keep driving to the other end to a layby. Park and follow the path back towards Widdop and they are on your right.

Guidebooks

Northern England

The book is a selected route and crag guide although it still manages to pack over 2350 routes between its covers, spread across 44 crags. The main focus is on routes of all grades from Moderate to E9, but the best bouldering is also described.
More info
The Boulders here are the greatest but they have meant that I have thrown my harness away and ended up bouldering stuff way beyond my leading ability. Excellent for stretching yourself technically the boulders mostly have good fall zones without too many ankle breaking rocks. Bring an old towel to dry your boots off though as it can be wet. Midges are a bit fierce towards end of summer.
Doc Limmer - 10/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Dam Boulder One 
2Roofless
-
f6A+ *7
3Lip Service
-
f7A ** 
 Dam Boulder Two 
5Vagrant
-
f6A 1
6Low Life
-
f6C 1
 Dam Boulder Three 
8Warm Up
-
f5 4
9Warm Front
-
f5 5
10Boiling Point
-
f5+ 8
 Dam Boulder Four - Eliminates Boulder 
12Dogger
-
f6A+  
13Leaning Wallf6B+ *1
14Lean Times
-
f6A 2
 Dam Boulder Five 
16The Inbetweeners
-
f6A+  
17Going Straight
-
f5 2
18Going Solo
-
f4+  
19The Uphill Gardenerf6C+ **1
 Runnel Reagan Boulder 
21Arete Problem
-
f3+ 2
22Target Practice
-
f2+ 2
 Curving Crack Area 
24Archie's Wallf6C ** 
25Curving Crackf4+ ***5
26Curving Crack Arete (Curve Ball)f6A+ ***5
 Cave Buttress 
28Dessert
-
E2 5b 1
29Main Course
-
E5 6b * 
30A Trifle Sweet
-
E2 5c 1
31Curving Crack
-
VS 5a 23
32Cave CrackVS 4c *31
33Cave Arete
-
E2 5c 4
34Shadow Play
-
E5 6b **5
35Wickerwork Crack
-
HVS 5b 3
36Chocolate Starfish
-
HVS 5b  
37Wickerwork Wall
-
MVS 4b 4
 Mystery Buttress 
39Neptune
-
E2 5c 2
40Busty's Arete
-
E4 6a * 
41Scratch 'n' Sniff
-
E3 5c 1
42The Links Climb
-
HVS 5a *5
43The Nature Reserve
-
E2 6a 1
44Ordinary RouteVD **145
45Ordinary Route variation StartVD *24
46Birtwistle's CrackVS 4c *29
47The Three CsVS 4c **46
48The Flake DirectE1 5b *12
49Krypton RouteS 4a *98
50Krypton Route - The Flake FinishVS 4b **46
51Krypton Route - The Layback FinishVS 4c *48
52Krypton EliminateE1 5b *10
53The Krypton Factor
-
E1 5c 1
54The GullyD 30
 Above Mystery Buttress 
 Fish and Chip Boulder 
57Haddockf5 1
58The Chips
-
f6B+ *2
 Top-Rope Boulder 
 The Proposition 
61The Propositionf6C **1
 Wrinkled Wall 
63Wrinkley AreteHVS 5a 10
64Wrinkled Wall DirectVS 4b *47
65Wrinkled WallHVD *97
66Oblique Crack
-
D 27
67Fever
-
E1 5c 3
68Brinkley Arete
-
E3 6a 2
 CD Area 2 - Brinkley Arete - Fever 
70Brushed for Success
-
f6A+ 2
71Groovy Peoplef6C ***4
 The Humps 
73The Humpsf6C+ ***1
74Flake Charmerf7A 10
75Tricksterf6A *6
 Happy Feet 
77Happy Feet
-
f7C+ ** 
 Overhang Buttress 
79HammertimeE6 6b *1
80The Zig-Zag
-
VD 12
81Canine FruitbatE5 6b *1
82FelicityHVS 5a 3
83Ceiling CrackE2 5c **10
84Thirty Seconds Over WinterlandE5 6b **4
85Slime ChimneyVD 17
86Slime Chimney Direct StartHVS 5b 5
87Easy ChimneyM 13
 Celebrity Buttress 
89Gallon Drunk
-
HVS 5b  
90Stage FrightE3 6a *5
91Celebrity ButtressVS 5a **52
92LibelVS 5a 13
93Pictures of You
-
E5 6a  
94Limpet
-
HVS 5b 9
95Shrimpet
-
HVS 5b 1
 Piton Crack 
97Piton CrackE1 5b *24
98Fourty Calorie Cocoa
-
E3 6a  
99ScupperedHVS 5c 1
100Mantel MadnessE3 6a 5
 Purgatory Buttress 
102Alibi
-
HVS 5b 4
103Retribution
-
E4 6a 1
104Pulp FrictionE3 6a *4
105Argon and the Final StepE3 6a *1
106Afternoon DelightE4 6a *3
107SisyphusE5 6a *1
108Swift and SureE5 6b ***10
109Artificial RouteVS 4c ***60
110Purgatory ProblemE6 6b **4
111Purgatory ChimneyVD *21
112Reservoir DogsE8 7a ***3
113Widdop WallE9 7a *** 
 The Kidney Boulder - Red Rose Boulder 
115Zorro The Gay Bladef6A 13
116Going Mantelf6A+ 12
117Corn Flakef6B+ 16
118The Red Rosef6C+ 8
 Plantation Boulders 
 Block 1 (5) - Low Block 
121Block 1, Problem 1
-
VB 49
122Block 1 Problem 2V0 32
123Mof5+ 14
124Larryf5+ 20
125Curlyf5 11
126The Boss
-
f3+ 29
127Bruce (low block)f3+ 2
128The Stooges (low block)f2+ 2
129Iggy Pop
-
f3+ 28
130Ernie
-
f4 26
131Eric ( low block)f4 3
132Block 1 Problem 9
-
VB 21
133The Full 360f6A ***3
 Block 2 (6) - Fight On Black 
135Antf6C 1
136Hurricanef7A+ **32
137Splashdownf6B **123
138Pot Blackf6C 9
139Block 2 (6) problem 3f6C 5
140Fight on the Blackf7B **50
141Knocked AboutV5 **3
142The Shelf
-
f6B 65
143Block 2 Problem 9
-
V0 13
144Hallo Little Ladyf4+ 28
145Deck
-
f6C 17
146Block 2 problem 12V3 13
 Block 3 Boozers Slab (7) - Pickpockets Boulder 
148Little Swimmersf5 14
149Pool Directf6A+ 11
150Pool Traverse
-
f6B+ *147
151The Big Top
-
f6A **15
152Block 3, Problem 2f4 33
153Pick Pocket's Wall
-
f6A+ *118
154Pick Pocket's Crack
-
f6A+ *177
155Fagin's Ridgef5 *155
156Block 3 Problem 7f3 86
157Block 3 Problem 7af3 42
158Mild
-
f2+ 96
159Bitter
-
f3+ 79
160Stout
-
f5 42
161Block 3 Problem 11
-
VB 33
162Block 3 problem 12
-
VB 41
163Block 3, Problem 13
-
VB 46
164Lagerf6A *10
165Slab Traverse (Pickpocket)f3+ 2
 Block 4 (8) - 4 Square 
167Hare
-
f6A+ 24
168Rabbitf6B *7
169Corner Crack
-
f3 32
170Pebble Slab
-
f4+ 30
171Spicef3+ 65
172Pebble Without A Causef6B 20
173Pocket Problem (4 Square)
-
f4+ 4
174Get Shortyf5+ 79
175Block 4, Problem 12f5+ 70
176Four Squaref6A+ **78
177Hole Lot of Lovef5 13
 Block 5 (9) - Red Edge 
179Red Edge Left EliminateV3 29
180Red Edge Left
-
f5+ 192
181Red Edge Traversef6B+ *16
182Red Edge Right
-
f5+ **213
 Block 6 (10) - Umpleby's Arete 
184Block 6, Problem 2V1 7
185Landlord
-
f4+ 20
186Runnel for your Lifef5+ 6
187The North Facef5+ *12
188The Big Crackf3+ **30
189Umpleby's Aretef5 ***56
190The Offwidth (The Hurt Locker)f3+ *27
191Block 6, Problem 12V5 7
192Pebble Wall
-
f6C+ 3
193Fortune Cookie
-
f2+ 26
194Reggief3+ 23
195Ronnie
-
f3 28
196Block 6, Problem 17
-
VB 13
 Block 7 (11) - Seventh Wave 
198System 7f6B+ 11
199Seven Steps To Heaven
-
f6A 20
200The Seventh Wavef6C 16
201Magic Number
-
f5 8
202Seventh Heaven
-
f5 12
203Seven Deadly Sinsf5 *15
204Sin Binf4+ 11
205Block 7, Problem 8
-
VB 4
 Grumpy Old Men 
207Grumpy Old Menf6A *2
208Speccy Peers *V6  
 Tillie's Traverse 
 waiting 
211Ard Crack *V3  
212Pocket Problem *f5  
213Left Wall *V4+  
214Caret and Blue *V4+  
215Horror Crack *V0-  
216Turkish Delight *V2  
217Eastern Promise *V1  
218Pebble Love *V8  
219Kaboom *V4+  
220Fissureman's Friend *f4+  
221Dug Out *V3  
222Cannonball *V4+  
223Walkabout *V6  
224Shin Splint *V4  
225Going Mantel SDS *
-
V7  
226Red Rose SDS *
-
V8+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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