A fine crag for short, steep and intense extreme climbs. It gets a lot of sun and Westerly breezes, but the right end is prone to seepage after rain.
Continue north beyond Jetty Buttress for 0.3 miles/0.5km to a car park on the left, overlooking a fine sandy beach. Walk East along the road for 200m or so to a gate on the right, go up to a burn and cross this as it steepens, then continue straight up and counter left.
Scottish Rock - North (2009)
|2||The Monkey Tribe||E3 5c **||9|
|3||Soul Brothers||E5 6a *|
|4||Kneel and Pray||E1 5b *||11|
|5||Bodhisattva||E5 6b **|
|6||Habit Forming||E2 5b *||1|
|7||Claustrophobia||VS 4c *||3|
|8||Achilles Heal||E2 5b||1|
|9||Devil Music||E2 5c *||5|
|10||Coughed up from Hell||E5 6b *|
|11||Genesis||E3 5c *||3|
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|Small but fierce - the routes are generally 10 metres of crux. Never have I seen so many ticks, and I've seen a few.|
Andy Moles - 05/May/15