Rocktype Crumbly rubbish
Altitude 5783m a.s.l
Sunset over Haighutum East's summit from our high bivi at around 5100m © Lee Harrison
Haigutum East is a minor snow peak on the south side of the Hispar Glacier, the fifth largest glacier in Pakistan. The peak forms part of the beautiful Bal Chhish range which is a dividing marker between the counties of Nagar and Baltistan. ‘Haigutum’ refers to the grazing area further east and is the last pasture on the southern side of Hispar. Despite Haigutum East’s modest height it is an interesting, challenging peak to climb in a stunning part of Pakistan’s Karakoram. The peak would make a great introduction to the mountains of Pakistan for those with suitable climbing experience looking for a mid-grade route. It may however be problematic for inexperienced climbers due to route finding difficulties through numerous seracs and crevasses. It would also be a good choice for acclimatisation for for higher peaks.
Haigutum East is a short trek from Snow Lake, one of the most uniquely beautiful spots in Northern Pakistan. The trek to base camp is also a memorable one skirting the southern faces of the Hispar Muztagh which contains some of the most impressive peaks in the Northern Areas such as Kunyang Chhish, Trivor and Pumari Chhish. The Bal Chhish peaks along the southern side are also very dramatic. In my opinion the Hispar glacier is more inspiring than even the Baltoro glacier.
To the best of my knowledge the successful summit by me (Lee Harrison) and Peter Thompson was a first. We summited via a northern route from the Hispar Glacier in an Alpine style climb in two days making a high bivi at 5150m on route. The route is described here and the trip report is available here. No previous attempts have been made to the best of my knowledge and the south face remains unclimbed. This can be climbed from the Kero Lungma or Hucho Aichori valleys which extend north from where the Chogo Lungma glacier commences.
From either Karimabad or Aliabad in Hunza first arrange a Jeep to the village of Nagar and then arrange a further one to the village of Hispar at the western end of the Hispar glacier. It is not possible to take a Jeep from Hunza directly to Hispar unless to driver is from Nagar as the road beyond Nagar is privately owned and only local Nagar drivers are allowed to use it. This unfortunately will put you in a poor bargaining position. Since there is no public transport between the villages having arranged a fee for your
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