Climbs 2
Rocktype Crumbly rubbish
Altitude 5700m a.s.l
Faces all

Shimshal Whitehorn at night. The start of the Couloir aux Milles Rigoles is pictured on the far right of the photo. © Lee Harrison

Crag features

Shifkiten Sar is a small ca 5700m peak at the end of Shimshal Whitehornís North Ridge. There have been at least four ascents. It was first climbed in 1986 by the British group who subsequently made the first ascent of Shimshal Whitehorn. Previous to this ascent, an Irish group had made a failed attempt at Shifkiten Sarís North Ridge. Qudrat Ali has also climbed it twice, in 1996 and 2006. I climbed this peak in 2006 from the Adver Glacier from the North together with Peter Thompson. The easiest way to climb the peak is via the Madhil Glacier which branches off the Malangutti Glacier. A more difficult way is the route we route in 2006 via the Couloir aux Milles Rigoles.

Approach notes

Accessed via the village of Shimshal in the Gojal region of the Pakistani Karakoram. To reach the Couloir aux Milles Rigoles climb the Adver valley to beneath the North-East Face. The Madhil Glacier is accessible from the Malangutti Glacier to the West.


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