Taffs Well West Cardiff, WALES
Climbs 52 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N
Tends to stay wet after heavy rain; can be vegetated. Essentially a sports crag. Pitches up to 24m.
Re-bolted in 2010 although looks and feels very new providing a good sports climbing venue. Similar in scale and type as The Roadside Crags at Dinas Rock .
ST 12150 82869
As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn L to Radyr, then R at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the L is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the R (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).
Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind.Best to get there early to avoid parking problems.This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work.Does get very busy!!!!!
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www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki
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Does anyone know if there is good top- and bottom-roping at this crag? I have just started climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thanks.
marcjospeh - 07/May/14
a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though!
hms - 12/Jul/13
Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki.
alan rosier - 27/May/10
The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track
Billg - 10/Oct/09
This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone
jcj - 06/Mar/07
The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown!
timjones - 19/Mar/06
The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed!
Mattress - 13/Jul/05
The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb!
ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04