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View larger mapGrid Ref ST 121828 (OS Landranger #171)

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These details were last updated on 22/May/2013

Taffs Well West

Cardiff, WALES

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Tends to stay wet after heavy rain; can be vegetated. Essentially a sports crag. Pitches up to 24m.

Re-bolted in 2010 although looks and feels very new providing a good sports climbing venue. Similar in scale and type as The Roadside Crags at Dinas Rock .

ST 12150 82869

Weather forecast

 Today  Sun  Mon  Tue  Wed 

0.0mm rain
Sun
8 °C
14 kph

0.0mm rain
Sun
9 °C
22 kph

5.6mm rain
Sunny periods
12 °C
32 kph

7.2mm rain
Mainly cloudy
10 °C
22 kph

6.6mm rain
Cloudy
11 °C
19 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE OUTER PIT  
2Clart's Free Dragon Taxi Ride to Visit Nan Hussein5 10
3Affluenza5+ 6
4Honeybucket Supreme5 13
5Faster! Pussycat5+ 17
6Tinkers Dog6a 15
7Full Metal Jacket6a+ 24
8Any Old Iron6c *17
9Rag And Bone6b 36
10Wreckers ball6a 35
11Knackers yard6b+ 47
12Landfill Tax6a *38
13Sustainable Development5+ 48
14Industrial Salvage5+ 40
 THE NORTH WALL  
16Squeeze for cream4+ 4
17The Creaming Dream7a 8
18Ice Scream Sunday7a+ 5
19Scream For Cream7a+ 6
20G.L.C. - Safeasf*ck!7b **4
21Trailblazer7b 6
22Sink Or Swim7a+ 7
23Security Plus7b 5
24Norman Normal7a *9
25Taffy Duck6c * 
26All's Well6b *27
27Bitter End6c *10
 Climb nameGradex
28Adam Hussein's Nan6b *6
 DIAMOND WALL  
30Bristol Beat7a **14
31Streaming Neutrinos7b+ 2
32It's a Black World7a+ 7
33Howling Hadrons6a 14
 THE BACK WALL  
35Crooked Little Pinky6b+ **2
36Rain Dogs7a *1
37The Quartz Bicycle7a * 
38You Never Can Tell7a * 
39Party Animal7a+ ** 
40Palm SpringsE5 6a * 
41A Million DestiniesE5 6a * 
42Stay HungryE5 6b * 
43Digitorum Brevis7b * 
 THE SLABS  
45The Boney King of Nowhere5 19
46Once Upon a Time6a 26
47Can The Can6c 10
48Palm7a *9
49Neil Kinnock's Last Stand7a+ **4
50Chinese Whispers6c *19
51Glenys Encounters her First Limp Member6a 23
 THE PINNACLE  
53Clair de Lune6a *46
54Mare Tranquilis5 45
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Access notes
As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn L to Radyr, then R at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the L is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the R (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).

Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind.Best to get there early to avoid parking problems.This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work.Does get very busy!!!!!

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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though!
hms - 12/Jul/13

Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki.
alan rosier - 27/May/10

The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track
Billg - 10/Oct/09

This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone
jcj - 06/Mar/07

The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown!
timjones - 19/Mar/06

The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed!
Mattress - 13/Jul/05

The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb!
ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04