View larger mapGrid Ref ST 121828 (OS Landranger #171)

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These details were last updated on 22/May/2013

Taffs Well West

Cardiff, WALES

Climbs 52 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 100m a.s.l – Faces N

Crag features
Tends to stay wet after heavy rain; can be vegetated. Essentially a sports crag. Pitches up to 24m.

Re-bolted in 2010 although looks and feels very new providing a good sports climbing venue. Similar in scale and type as The Roadside Crags at Dinas Rock .

ST 12150 82869

Access notes
As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn L to Radyr, then R at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the L is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the R (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).

Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind.Best to get there early to avoid parking problems.This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work.Does get very busy!!!!!

Weather forecast

 Today  Thu  Fri  Sat  Sun 

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
18 °C
13 kph

0.0mm rain
18 °C
19 kph

0.0mm rain
20 °C
17 kph

1.5mm rain
Sunny periods
19 °C
15 kph

0.0mm rain
19 °C
15 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks (1995), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
2Clart's Free Dragon Taxi Ride to Visit Nan Hussein5a 11
3Affluenza5c 8
4Honeybucket Supreme5a 16
5Faster! Pussycat5c 23
6Tinkers Dog6a 23
7Full Metal Jacket6a+ 30
8Any Old Iron6c *26
9Rag And Bone6b 45
10Wreckers ball6a 49
11Knackers yard6b+ 58
12Landfill Tax6a *54
13Sustainable Development5c 65
14Industrial Salvage5c 48
16Squeeze for cream4c 4
17The Creaming Dream7a 11
18Ice Scream Sunday7a+ 7
19Scream For Cream7a+ 9
20G.L.C. - Safeasf*ck!7b **8
21Trailblazer7b 12
22Sink Or Swim7a+ 10
23Security Plus7b 7
24Norman Normal7a *15
25Taffy Duck6c * 
26All's Well6b *33
27Bitter End6c *15
28Adam Hussein's Nan6b *6
 Climb nameGradex
30Bristol Beat7a **23
31Streaming Neutrinos7b+ 5
32It's a Black World7a+ 13
33Howling Hadrons6a 19
35Crooked Little Pinky6b+ **3
36Bulging Sack4c ***1
37Rain Dogs7a *1
38The Quartz Bicycle7a * 
39You Never Can Tell7a *1
40Party Animal7a+ **2
41Palm SpringsE5 6a * 
42A Million DestiniesE5 6a * 
43Lame To Fame Start4c *** 
44Stay HungryE5 6b *1
45Bags oF Fun4b *** 
46Digitorum Brevis7b * 
48The Boney King of Nowhere5a 20
49Once Upon a Time6a 29
50Can The Can6c 10
51Palm7a *11
52Neil Kinnock's Last Stand7a+ **6
53Chinese Whispers6c *20
54Glenys Encounters her First Limp Member6a 24
56Clair de Lune6a *55
57Mare Tranquilis5a 52
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USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Love this crag. It takes some drying out and and is a little dingy but the climbing is great. Wonderful angular quarried rock makes for technical climbing requiring body tension, balance, and sometimes a bit of thuggery.
Giles Davis - 23/Aug/14

Does anyone know if there is good top- and bottom-roping at this crag? I have just started climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thanks.
marcjospeh - 07/May/14

a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though!
hms - 12/Jul/13

Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki.
alan rosier - 27/May/10

The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track
Billg - 10/Oct/09

This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone
jcj - 06/Mar/07

The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown!
timjones - 19/Mar/06

The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed!
Mattress - 13/Jul/05

The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb!
ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04