UKC

Climbs 78
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 623m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Hanging out on Dame de Sabart (8a). At this grade it only crosses half of the roof! © chez Arran

Crag features

The main cave is an amazing piece of rock, only a short distance from the road (set behind the local scrap yard), consisting of a truly immense cave and some lesser, though still quite respectable, walls away to the left. The cave is one of the three main entrances to the Sabart/Niaux/Lombrives cave system which contains over 40km of passages. The routes here are almost exclusively black-spots, and the upper end of that too, but if you are up to it there are some outstanding exercises here.

Sections of the cave seep after wet weather, but there is almost always a lot of dry rock here no matter how hard it is raining. The cave has its own micro-climate; cool in the summer, warm in the winter.

More recently, the Baraka Frite and Emojis sectors have been developed and offer more options for easily accessible routes on excellent rock. Emojis, in particular, will be of interest to many as it has a good number of quality grade 4 to 6 routes that are in shade all afternoon.

Approach notes

Sabart cave: From the easterly roundabout in Tarascon, turn right towards Vicdessos and drive for a couple of hundred metres to the Tarascon town sign. Just beyond this there is parking on the left by some gates which are usually chained shut. Do not park in front of the gate as heavy machinery requires access.
Pass round the right side of the gate and follow the track up for 5 minutes towards the cliff. As this flattens off, a narrow path heads left into the trees and weaves up to before splitting where it flattens out. The Main Cave is just to the right.

Emojis: From the easterly roundabout in Tarascon, head towards Andorra, drive for a couple of hundred metres and park in a large layby on the right. From the left side of the layby, follow a small track that passes behind the layby to an iron gate, just before which a footpath leads left and up the hillside for 10 minutes to the crag. The crag itself comprises three separate buttresses, the rightmost of which has a fixed rope in place for easy access.

Baraka Frite: From the easterly roundabout in Tarascon, head towards Andorra for about 800m and park on the right opposite the first building on the left (an old railwayman's cottage.) A small path from there leads up for 1 minute to the crag.

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