Climbs 178
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stone Wings Cliff 
2Liassic Lark7a *78
3In Search Of Bedrock7a+ *10
4Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
5Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **34
6The Dai Vinci Coed7c **4
7This god Is Mine7b+ ***52
8Masada8a+ ***35
9Stone WingsE5 *2
10The Uninvited Guest7b+ 6
11Mr. T.8a+ **1
12Super Size Me7c+ **9
13Staple Diet7b ***110
14Tragic Moustache7a **32
15Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **46
16Magic Touch6b **47
17Pelagic Mush6a+ *98
18Sideburn6b+ *64
19Spear The Bearded Clam6b 62
20Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 16
21PCB6a 28
 Dunraven Cliff 
23Tufa Joy7a 10
24Tufa At The Top7a **40
25Its Tufa At The Bottom7a+ *8
26Tufa Tennis6c *16
27Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ **35
28World vs Gibson7a **29
29Straining At The Leash7b **6
30Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **8
31There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *51
32Plus Ca Change7b *7
33Hanging By A Thread6c ***161
34Edge-More7c 5
35Edge Hog7b+ ***29
36Grow Up7c *3
37Pasty = Man Boobs4a 28
38Young, Gifted and Beige4a 8
39The Overlook7b+ *4
40Anchors Away6b+ *9
41Cast Adrift6c *14
42Broken On The Rocks6b *18
43Marooned6b 16
 Witches Cave 
45Rabbit From A HatVD 8
46Fatman And Nob In3+ 13
47Gay Batman5a 36
48Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 46
49Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c *57
50Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *55
51Magic Circle6b *29
52Smoke And Mirrors6b **38
53Great Expectorations6b **29
54Phlegmatic Solution6c **14
55Evil Ways7b **6
56Evil Kneeful7a+ ***8
57Willie The Pimp6c+ **4
58White WitchE5  
59Thin Lizzy6c+ **22
60Wrasse Wipe6c *10
61Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c *6
62Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *12
63Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 19
64Wrasse Bandit6b+ 8
65Sore Wrasse6c 4
66Wrassetafarian6b+ 4
67Little Wrasse Cull6a 4
68Little Wrasse TurdHS 1
69Little Wrasse TicklerHS 2
70Chateau Lefat 69HS 1
71Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS 1
72The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c 2
 Witches Tip Main Cliff 
74Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
75PaternosterE3 5c **1
76It's All BollocksE2 6b 2
77Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
78Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
79Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
80How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
81Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
82Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
83Bridges EndE4 6b 2
84UndercutE1 5c 3
85Up In SmokeE3 5c *4
86Step AsideE1 5c 6
87Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
88BreakoutHVS 2
89Fast Flow 1E1 5b *5
90Fast Flow 2E1 5b *4
91Fast Flow 3E2 5b *3
92Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *3
93Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
94Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
95Waiting GameHVS 5a 3
 Temple Bay - First Inlet 
97Long Awaited6c *9
98Fools Rush In6c+ **5
99Lasting ImpressionsE3 * 
100Dross of 866b *8
101Sixty Eight Plus One6b 12
102Blow me, Another one5c *14
103Matt Of The Iron Gland6a *12
104Wrecker's Bay6a+ *12
105Surly Temple6a+ *11
 Temple Bay - Second Inlet 
107Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ *3
108Alchemy of Error6a 3
109Ow7a 2
110300 Spartans6b *3
111Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 3
112Minsir6c *3
113Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 3
114Tip Ripper6c *3
115Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ *6
116Euclid's Theorem6a *7
117Gift Of The Gods6b+ 4
118Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
119Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 6
120All Greek To Me5c 6
121One Less For The Spoiler4c 6
122JerichoE3 5c  
123Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 3
124Prometheus Bound5c 3
125Oceanus Aches6a 3
126Dodecanese Dalliance5b 3
 Cave Inlet 
128The Barnacle Bill6b *3
129Canaan GruntsHVS  
130Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *6
131Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ *2
132Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *3
133Chargeable Event6a *6
134Lips Off My Shofarot6a+ *6
135Lane Discipline6a+ *5
136Hogging The Mid Lane6b *5
137Life in the Slow Lane6b+ * 
138Life In The Slow LaneHVS 7
139Quiet Flows The Don5b 6
140Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c 6
141Sultan's Spring5c 3
142Blowing The Ram's HornVS 1
143Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 1
144TumbledownHS 2
145Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 1
146Nietzche's Niche5c *6
147Reverted Revisionist6a+ *13
148Cartesian Dualism5b *14
149Descarte's Dithers5c *17
150Archimedes Screws6a+ *15
151The Burning Glass6b **6
152Siege Of Syracuse6b **7
 Long Wall 
154Socrates Sucks5c 6
155Kant Hooks4c *10
156Rude BuoysHS 1
157Sartres FliesM 5
158Sartre's UnderlayVS 5
159The Carpetbagger4c *5
160Fermat's Last Theorem5b *6
161Oreste's Suffering6a+ *7
162The Probing Proctologist6a *5
163Electra's Revenge5c 8
164Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 3
165Now Then Now ThenVS 4c 2
166Method of ExhaustionHS 4b 2
167Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 3
168Ad InfinitumS 2
 Moved climbs from Temple bay cave 
170Ankor watV4 3
171Ankor thomV3 **3
172Heading to the lightV2 3
173Sagrada familiaV8+ **1
174LuxorV5 **3
175El miradorV0 3
176king SolomansV7 **2
177Tweeter and the monkey manV1 **3
178KashmirV1 3
179Waiting Wuss project *1  
180Fishermen's Friend *E2 5b 1
181Royal Headache *E3 6b  
182Leg over *E4 6a  
183Pullover *M 1
184Hand Over *E1 5a 1
185Gloss Over *E3 5b 1
186No Push Over *E2 5c  
187Crossover *HVS 5a  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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