Witches Point (Stone Wing Cliff, White Witch Crag,

Climbs 147 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Access notes
Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.

Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.

Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1In Search Of Bedrock7a+
2Liassic Lark7a *
3Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *
4Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **
5The Dai Vinci Coed7c *
6This god Is Mine7b+ ***
7Masada8a+ ***
8Stone WingsE5 6a
9The Uninvited Guest7b+
10Mr. T.8a+ **
11Super Size Me7c+ **
12Staple Diet7b ***
13Tragic Moustache7a *
14Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **
15Magic Touch6b *
16Pelagic Mush6a
17Sideburn6b+ *
18Spear The Bearded Clam5c
19Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c
20PCB5c
21Tufa Joy6c+
22Tufa At The Top7a **
23Its Tufa At The Bottom7b
24Tufa Tennis6c+ *
25Croeso-I-Gymru6b+
26World vs Gibson7a **
27Straining At The Leash7b **
28Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **
29There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *
30Plus Ca Change7b *
31Hanging By A Thread6c ***
32Edge-More7b+
33Edge Hog7b+ ***
34Grow Up7c *
35Pasty = Man Boobs3+ *
36Young, Gifted and Beige4a
37The Overlook7b+ *
38Anchors Away6b+
39Cast Adrift6b
40Broken On The Rocks6a+
41Marooned6a+
 THIN LIZZY BUTTRESS 
43Rabbit From A HatVD
44Fatman And Nob In3+
45Gay Batman5a
46Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a
47Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c
48Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *
49Magic Circle6b *
50Smoke And Mirrors6b *
51Great Expectorations6b **
52Phlegmatic Solution6c **
53Evil Ways7b *
54Evil Kneeful7a+ ***
55Willie The Pimp6c+ **
56Thin Lizzy6c **
57Wrasse Wipe6b+ *
58Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c
59Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *
60Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+
61Wrasse Bandit6b
62Sore Wrasse6c
63Wrassetafarian6b+ *
64Little Wrasse Cull6a
65Little Wrasse TurdHS
66Little Wrasse TicklerHS
67Chateau Lefat 69HS
68Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS
69The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c *
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF 
71Jilter's WallE2 5c
72Wanker's Crack/Professor's CrackVS 4b
73Eugene's OverE1 5c
74How well it flowsHVS 5b
75ArcanaE4 5c
76LysisteraE5 6a
77Bridges EndE4 6b
78UndercutE1 5c
79Up In SmokeE3 5c *
80Step AsideE1 5c
81Cold ShoulderHVS 5b
82BreakoutHVS
83Fast Flow 1E1 5b *
84Fast Flow 2E1 5b *
85Fast Flow 3E2 5b *
86Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *
87Turn Back TimeE2 5b
88Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *
89Waiting GameHVS 5a
90Long Awaited6c+ *
91Fools Rush In6c+ **
92Dross of 866b *
93Blow me, Another one5c
94Sixty Eight Plus One6b *
95Matt Of The Iron Gland6a
96Wrecker's Bay6a+
97Surly Temple6a
 MOVED CLIMBS 
99Themis Is Out Of Order6a+
100Unamed Eugene-ness7a
101300 Spartans6b *
102Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a
103Minsir6c *
104Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+
105Tip Ripper6c+ *
106Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ **
107Euclid's Theorem6a *
108Gift Of The Gods6b+
109Gods Of Long Ashton6a
110Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a
111All Greek To Me5c
112One Less For The Spoiler4c
113JerichoE3 5c
114Medusa Spares No Head6a+
115Prometheus Bound5c
116Oceanus Aches6a
117Dodecanese Dalliance5b
 CAVE INLET 
119The Barnacle Bill6b *
120Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *
121Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ **
122Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *
123Chargeable Event6a *
124Lips Off My Shofarot6a *
125Lane Discipline6a *
126Hogging The Mid Lane6a *
127Life In The Slow Lane6b+ **
128Quiet Flows The Don5a
129Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c *
130Sultan's Spring5c
131Blowing The Ram's HornVS 4c
132Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 5a
133TumbledownHS 4b
134Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 5a
135Nietzche's Niche5c *
136Reverted Revisionist6a+ **
137Cartesian Dualism5a *
138Descarte's Dithers5c *
139Archimedes Screws6a+ *
140The Burning Glass6b+ **
141Siege Of Syracuse6b **
 LONG WALL 
143Socrates Sucks5c
144Kant Hooks4c *
145Sartres FliesM
146Sartre's UnderlayVS
147The Carpetbagger4c *
148Fermat's Last Theorem5c *
149Oreste's Suffering6a+ *
150The Probing Proctologist6a *
151Electra's Revenge5c *
152Jim'll Fix ItVS 5a
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These details were last updated on 18/Jun/2013
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