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These details were last updated on 18/Jun/2013

Witches Point (Stone Wing Cliff, White Witch Crag,

Vale of Glamorgan, WALES

Climbs 109 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1In Search Of Bedrock7a+ 4
2Liassic Lark7a *29
3Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c *14
4This god Is Mine7b+ **18
5Masada8a+ ***10
6Stone WingsE5 6a 1
7The Uninvited Guest7b+ 3
8Staple Diet7b ***46
9Tragic Moustache7a *19
10Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **27
11Magic Touch6b *30
12Pelagic Mush6a 58
13Sideburn6b+ *35
14Spear The Bearded Clam5+ 39
15Slurp The Savoury Oyster5+ 12
16PCB5+ 17
17Tufa Joy6c+ 7
18Tufa At The Top7a **19
19Its Tufa At The Bottom7b 4
20Tufa Tennis6c+ *11
21Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ 18
22World vs Gibson7a **15
23Straining At The Leash7b **3
24Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **4
25There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *33
26Plus Ca Change7b *4
27Hanging By A Thread6c ***73
28Edge-More7b+ 4
29Edge Hog7b+ ***14
30Grow Up7c *2
31Pasty = Man Boobs3+ *15
32The Overlook7b+ *2
33Anchors Away6b+ 4
34Cast Adrift6b 4
35Broken On The Rocks6a+ 5
36Marooned6a+ 5
 THIN LIZZY BUTTRESS  
38Gay Batman5 15
39Robin's Yoghurt Supper5 14
40Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5+ 21
41Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *21
42Smoke And Mirrors6b *14
43Magic Circle6b *9
44Evil WaysE5 6b *4
45Evil Kneeful7a+ ***3
46Thin Lizzy6c **10
47Wrasse Wipe6b+ *5
48Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6a+ *4
49Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a 9
50Wrasse Bandit6b 4
51Sore Wrasse6c 3
52Wrassetafarian6b+ *3
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
54Jilter's WallE2 5c 1
55Wanker's CrackVS 4b 2
56Bridges EndE4 6b  
57UndercutE1 5c 1
58Step AsideE1 5c 1
 Climb nameGradex
59Up In SmokeE3 5c *** 
60Cold ShoulderHVS 5b 2
61BreakoutHVS 1
62Fast Flow 1E1 5b * 
63Fast Flow 2E1 5b * 
64Fast Flow 3E2 5b * 
65Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a * 
66Turn Back TimeE2 5b  
67Surprise SurpriseE1 5b * 
68Waiting GameHVS 5a 1
69Long Awaited6c+ * 
70Fools Rush In6c+ ** 
71Dross of 866b *2
72Sixty Eight Plus One6b *2
73Surly Temple6a 3
74Wrecker's Bay6a+ 3
75Matt Of The Iron Gland6a 2
 MOVED CLIMBS  
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
78Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ ** 
79300 Spartans6b * 
80Euclid's Theorem6a * 
81Gift Of The Gods6b+  
82Gods Of Long Ashton6a  
83Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a  
84All Greek To Me5+  
85One Less For The Spoiler4+  
86JerichoE3 5c  
 CAVE INLET  
88Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *1
89Chargeable Event6a *2
90Lips Off My Shofarot6a *2
91Life In The Slow Lane6b+ **2
92Quiet Flows The Don5 3
93Sultan's Spring5+ 1
94Blowing The Ram's HornVS 4c  
95Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 5a  
96TumbledownHS 4b  
97Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 5a  
98Nietzche's Niche5+ *1
99Reverted Revisionist6a+ **2
100Cartesian Dualism5 *2
101Descarte's Dithers5+ *2
102Archimedes Screws6a+ **2
103Siege Of Syracuse6b ***1
 LONG WALL  
105Socrates Sucks5+ 1
106Kant Hooks4+ *1
107Sartres FliesM  
108Sartre's UnderlayVS  
109The Carpetbagger4+ *1
110Fermat's Last Theorem5+ *2
111Oreste's Suffering6a+ *2
112The Probing Proctologist6a *1
113Electra's Revenge5+ *1
114Heading For A Sea Of Tears5+ *1
115The Burning Glass6b+ ***1
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Access notes
Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.

Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.

Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

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