Climbs 170
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

61Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c *6
62Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *12
63Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 19
64Wrasse Bandit6b+ 8
65Sore Wrasse6c 4
66Wrassetafarian6b+ 4
67Little Wrasse Cull6a 4
68Little Wrasse TurdHS 1
69Little Wrasse TicklerHS 2
70Chateau Lefat 69HS 1
71Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS 1
72The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c 2
 Witches Tip Main Cliff 
74Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
75PaternosterE3 5c **1
76It's All BollocksE2 6b 1
77Jilter's Wall
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E2 5c 4
78Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
79Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
80How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
81Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
82Lysistera
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E5 6a 1
83Bridges EndE4 6b 2
84UndercutE1 5c 3
85Up In SmokeE3 5c *4
86Step AsideE1 5c 6
87Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
88BreakoutHVS 2
89Fast Flow 1E1 5b *5
90Fast Flow 2E1 5b *4
91Fast Flow 3E2 5b *3
92Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *3
93Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
94Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
95Waiting GameHVS 5a 3
 Temple Bay - First Inlet 
97Long Awaited6c *9
98Fools Rush In6c+ **5
99Lasting ImpressionsE3 * 
100Dross of 866b *8
101Sixty Eight Plus One6b 12
102Blow me, Another one5c *14
103Matt Of The Iron Gland6a *12
104Wrecker's Bay6a+ *12
105Surly Temple6a+ *11
 Temple Bay - Second Inlet 
107Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ *3
108Alchemy of Error6a 3
109Ow7a 2
110300 Spartans6b *3
111Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 3
112Minsir6c *3
113Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 3
114Tip Ripper6c *3
115Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ *6
116Euclid's Theorem6a *7
117Gift Of The Gods6b+ 4
118Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
119Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 6
120All Greek To Me5c 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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