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These details were last updated on 18/Jun/2013

Witches Point (Stone Wing Cliff, White Witch Crag,

Vale of Glamorgan, WALES

Climbs 134 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Access notes
Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.

Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.

Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Weather forecast

 Today  Sat  Sun  Mon  Tue 

3.3mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
14 kph

9.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
16 °C
19 kph

1.7mm rain
Mainly cloudy
17 °C
13 kph

0.8mm rain
Cloudy
17 °C
11 kph

2.3mm rain
Mainly cloudy
18 °C
9 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1In Search Of Bedrock7a+ 5
2Liassic Lark7a *50
3Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
4Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c *22
5The Dai Vinci Coed7c *2
6This god Is Mine7b+ ***36
7Masada8a+ ***15
8Stone WingsE5 6a 2
9The Uninvited Guest7b+ 4
10Mr. T.8a+ **1
11Super Size Me7c+ **2
12Staple Diet7b ***67
13Tragic Moustache7a *24
14Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **31
15Magic Touch6b *38
16Pelagic Mush6a 75
17Sideburn6b+ *46
18Spear The Bearded Clam5c 48
19Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 13
20PCB5c 23
21Tufa Joy6c+ 9
22Tufa At The Top7a **29
23Its Tufa At The Bottom7b 5
24Tufa Tennis6c+ *14
25Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ 26
26World vs Gibson7a **26
27Straining At The Leash7b **4
28Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **6
29There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *41
30Plus Ca Change7b *5
31Hanging By A Thread6c ***107
32Edge-More7b+ 4
33Edge Hog7b+ ***24
34Grow Up7c *2
35Pasty = Man Boobs3+ *20
36Young, Gifted and Beige4a 1
37The Overlook7b+ *4
38Anchors Away6b+ 6
39Cast Adrift6b 9
40Broken On The Rocks6a+ 13
41Marooned6a+ 11
 THIN LIZZY BUTTRESS  
43Rabbit From A HatVD 2
44Fatman And Nob In3+ 3
45Gay Batman5a 22
46Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 29
47Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c 36
48Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *34
49Magic Circle6b *14
50Smoke And Mirrors6b *19
51Great Expectorations6b **6
52Phlegmatic Solution6c **4
53Evil Ways7b *5
54Evil Kneeful7a+ ***4
55Thin Lizzy6c **15
56Wrasse Wipe6b+ *7
57Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c 2
58Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *7
59Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 14
60Wrasse Bandit6b 5
61Sore Wrasse6c 3
62Wrassetafarian6b+ *3
63Little Wrasse Cull6a 1
64Little Wrasse TurdHS  
65Little Wrasse TicklerHS  
66Chateau Lefat 69HS  
67Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS  
68The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c * 
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
70Jilter's WallE2 5c 2
 Climb nameGradex
71Wanker's Crack/Professor's CrackVS 4b 3
72Eugene's OverE1 5c 1
73How well it flowsHVS 5b 1
74ArcanaE4 5c 1
75LysisteraE5 6a 1
76Bridges EndE4 6b 1
77UndercutE1 5c 3
78Up In SmokeE3 5c *2
79Step AsideE1 5c 4
80Cold ShoulderHVS 5b 2
81BreakoutHVS 1
82Fast Flow 1E1 5b *2
83Fast Flow 2E1 5b *1
84Fast Flow 3E2 5b *1
85Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *1
86Turn Back TimeE2 5b 1
87Surprise SurpriseE1 5b * 
88Waiting GameHVS 5a 1
89Long Awaited6c+ *5
90Fools Rush In6c+ **3
91Dross of 866b *3
92Blow me, Another one5c 2
93Sixty Eight Plus One6b *6
94Matt Of The Iron Gland6a 6
95Wrecker's Bay6a+ 5
96Surly Temple6a 4
 MOVED CLIMBS  
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
99300 Spartans6b *1
100Tip Ripper6c+ *1
101Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ **3
102Euclid's Theorem6a *3
103Gift Of The Gods6b+ 3
104Gods Of Long Ashton6a 3
105Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 3
106All Greek To Me5c 3
107One Less For The Spoiler4c 3
108JerichoE3 5c  
 CAVE INLET  
110Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *2
111Chargeable Event6a *4
112Lips Off My Shofarot6a *5
113Lane Discipline6a *2
114Hogging The Mid Lane6a *2
115Life In The Slow Lane6b+ **4
116Quiet Flows The Don5a 4
117Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c *3
118Sultan's Spring5c 1
119Blowing The Ram's HornVS 4c  
120Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 5a  
121TumbledownHS 4b 1
122Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 5a  
123Nietzche's Niche5c *2
124Reverted Revisionist6a+ **5
125Cartesian Dualism5a *6
126Descarte's Dithers5c *5
127Archimedes Screws6a+ **3
128The Burning Glass6b+ ***3
129Siege Of Syracuse6b ***2
 LONG WALL  
131Socrates Sucks5c 1
132Kant Hooks4c *1
133Sartres FliesM 1
134Sartre's UnderlayVS  
135The Carpetbagger4c *1
136Fermat's Last Theorem5c *2
137Oreste's Suffering6a+ *2
138The Probing Proctologist6a *1
139Electra's Revenge5c *2
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