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These details were last updated on 18/Jun/2013

Witches Point (Stone Wing Cliff, White Witch Crag,

Vale of Glamorgan, WALES

Climbs 131 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 10m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Access notes
Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.

Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.

Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Weather forecast

 Today  Fri  Sat  Sun  Mon 

1.3mm rain
Sun
21 °C
15 kph

0.2mm rain
Sun
21 °C
12 kph

0.2mm rain
Sunny periods
20 °C
14 kph

0.1mm rain
Sun
17 °C
25 kph

0.0mm rain
Sunny periods
16 °C
24 kph
Forecast for this crag or UK Weather forecast. Powered by World Weather Online

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs Add missing Climb Upload a file of missing climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1In Search Of Bedrock7a+ 4
2Liassic Lark7a *45
3Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c *22
4The Dai Vinci Coed7c *2
5This god Is Mine7b+ ***34
6Masada8a+ ***15
7Stone WingsE5 6a 2
8The Uninvited Guest7b+ 4
9Mr. T.8a+ **1
10Super Size Me7c+ **2
11Staple Diet7b ***64
12Tragic Moustache7a *24
13Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **30
14Magic Touch6b *38
15Pelagic Mush6a 75
16Sideburn6b+ *46
17Spear The Bearded Clam5c 48
18Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 13
19PCB5c 23
20Tufa Joy6c+ 9
21Tufa At The Top7a **29
22Its Tufa At The Bottom7b 5
23Tufa Tennis6c+ *14
24Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ 26
25World vs Gibson7a **26
26Straining At The Leash7b **4
27Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **6
28There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *41
29Plus Ca Change7b *5
30Hanging By A Thread6c ***106
31Edge-More7b+ 4
32Edge Hog7b+ ***24
33Grow Up7c *2
34Pasty = Man Boobs3+ *20
35Young, Gifted and Beige4a 1
36The Overlook7b+ *3
37Anchors Away6b+ 6
38Cast Adrift6b 9
39Broken On The Rocks6a+ 13
40Marooned6a+ 11
 THIN LIZZY BUTTRESS  
42Rabbit From A HatVD 2
43Fatman And Nob In3+ 2
44Gay Batman5a 20
45Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 25
46Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c 33
47Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *30
48Magic Circle6b *12
49Smoke And Mirrors6b *19
50Great Expectorations6b **6
51Phlegmatic Solution6c **4
52Evil Ways7b *5
53Evil Kneeful7a+ ***4
54Thin Lizzy6c **15
55Wrasse Wipe6b+ *7
56Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c 2
57Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *7
58Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 14
59Wrasse Bandit6b 5
60Sore Wrasse6c 3
61Wrassetafarian6b+ *3
62Little Wrasse Cull6a 1
63Little Wrasse TurdHS  
64Little Wrasse TicklerHS  
65Chateau Lefat 69HS  
66Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS  
67The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c * 
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
69Jilter's WallE2 5c 1
70Wanker's CrackVS 4b 2
 Climb nameGradex
71How well it flowsHVS 5b 1
72ArcanaE4 5c 1
73LysisteraE5 6a 1
74Bridges EndE4 6b 1
75UndercutE1 5c 3
76Up In SmokeE3 5c *2
77Step AsideE1 5c 4
78Cold ShoulderHVS 5b 2
79BreakoutHVS 1
80Fast Flow 1E1 5b *2
81Fast Flow 2E1 5b *1
82Fast Flow 3E2 5b *1
83Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *1
84Turn Back TimeE2 5b 1
85Surprise SurpriseE1 5b * 
86Waiting GameHVS 5a 1
87Long Awaited6c+ *5
88Fools Rush In6c+ **3
89Dross of 866b *3
90Sixty Eight Plus One6b *5
91Matt Of The Iron Gland6a 5
92Wrecker's Bay6a+ 5
93Surly Temple6a 4
 MOVED CLIMBS  
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
96300 Spartans6b *1
97Tip Ripper6c+ *1
98Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ **3
99Euclid's Theorem6a *3
100Gift Of The Gods6b+ 3
101Gods Of Long Ashton6a 3
102Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 3
103All Greek To Me5c 3
104One Less For The Spoiler4c 3
105JerichoE3 5c  
 CAVE INLET  
107Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *2
108Chargeable Event6a *4
109Lips Off My Shofarot6a *5
110Lane Discipline6a *2
111Hogging The Mid Lane6a *2
112Life In The Slow Lane6b+ **4
113Quiet Flows The Don5a 4
114Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c *3
115Sultan's Spring5c 1
116Blowing The Ram's HornVS 4c  
117Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 5a  
118TumbledownHS 4b 1
119Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 5a  
120Nietzche's Niche5c *2
121Reverted Revisionist6a+ **5
122Cartesian Dualism5a *6
123Descarte's Dithers5c *5
124Archimedes Screws6a+ **3
125The Burning Glass6b+ ***3
126Siege Of Syracuse6b ***2
 LONG WALL  
128Socrates Sucks5c 1
129Kant Hooks4c *1
130Sartres FliesM 1
131Sartre's UnderlayVS  
132The Carpetbagger4c *1
133Fermat's Last Theorem5c *2
134Oreste's Suffering6a+ *2
135The Probing Proctologist6a *1
136Electra's Revenge5c *1
137Blow me, Another one *5c 1
138Professor's Crack *VS 4b 1
139Eugene's Over *E1 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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