Witches Point (Stone Wing Cliff, White Witch Crag,

Climbs 151 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces SW

Crag features
One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Access notes
Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.

Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.

Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1In Search Of Bedrock7a+ 5
2Liassic Lark7a *55
3Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
4Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **25
5The Dai Vinci Coed7c *2
6This god Is Mine7b+ ***37
7Masada8a+ ***19
8Stone WingsE5 6a 2
9The Uninvited Guest7b+ 5
10Mr. T.8a+ **1
11Super Size Me7c+ **4
12Staple Diet7b ***72
13Tragic Moustache7a *27
14Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **35
15Magic Touch6b *42
16Pelagic Mush6a 82
17Sideburn6b+ *53
18Spear The Bearded Clam5c 52
19Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 15
20PCB5c 26
21Tufa Joy6c+ 10
22Tufa At The Top7a **33
23Its Tufa At The Bottom7b 6
24Tufa Tennis6c+ *15
25Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ 30
26World vs Gibson7a **27
27Straining At The Leash7b **5
28Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **7
29There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *44
30Plus Ca Change7b *7
31Hanging By A Thread6c ***116
32Edge-More7b+ 5
33Edge Hog7b+ ***27
34Grow Up7c *3
35Pasty = Man Boobs3+ *22
36Young, Gifted and Beige4a 3
37The Overlook7b+ *4
38Anchors Away6b+ 8
39Cast Adrift6b 12
40Broken On The Rocks6a+ 16
41Marooned6a+ 14
 THIN LIZZY BUTTRESS  
43Rabbit From A HatVD 3
44Fatman And Nob In3+ 5
45Gay Batman5a 25
46Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 31
47Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c 39
48Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *35
49Magic Circle6b *18
50Smoke And Mirrors6b *24
51Great Expectorations6b **10
52Phlegmatic Solution6c **7
53Evil Ways7b *6
54Evil Kneeful7a+ ***6
55Willie The Pimp6c+ **2
56Thin Lizzy6c **18
57Wrasse Wipe6b+ *8
58Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c 3
59Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *9
60Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 16
61Wrasse Bandit6b 7
62Sore Wrasse6c 4
63Wrassetafarian6b+ *4
64Little Wrasse Cull6a 3
65Little Wrasse TurdHS  
66Little Wrasse TicklerHS 1
67Chateau Lefat 69HS  
68Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS  
69The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c *1
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
71Jilter's WallE2 5c 2
72Wanker's Crack/Professor's CrackVS 4b 4
73Eugene's OverE1 5c 2
74How well it flowsHVS 5b 2
75ArcanaE4 5c 1
76LysisteraE5 6a 1
77Bridges EndE4 6b 1
78UndercutE1 5c 3
79Up In SmokeE3 5c *3
80Step AsideE1 5c 4
81Cold ShoulderHVS 5b 3
82BreakoutHVS 2
83Fast Flow 1E1 5b *3
84Fast Flow 2E1 5b *2
85Fast Flow 3E2 5b *2
86Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *2
87Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
88Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
89Waiting GameHVS 5a 2
90Long Awaited6c+ *5
91Fools Rush In6c+ **3
92Dross of 866b *4
93Blow me, Another one5c 4
94Sixty Eight Plus One6b *7
95Matt Of The Iron Gland6a 8
96Wrecker's Bay6a+ 7
97Surly Temple6a 6
 MOVED CLIMBS  
99Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ 2
100Unamed Eugene-ness7a 2
101300 Spartans6b *2
102Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 1
103Minsir6c *2
104Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 1
105Tip Ripper6c+ *2
106Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ **5
107Euclid's Theorem6a *5
108Gift Of The Gods6b+ 5
109Gods Of Long Ashton6a 5
110Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 4
111All Greek To Me5c 4
112One Less For The Spoiler4c 4
113JerichoE3 5c  
114Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 2
115Prometheus Bound5c 2
116Oceanus Aches6a 2
117Dodecanese Dalliance5b 2
 CAVE INLET  
119The Barnacle Bill6b *2
120Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *2
121Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ **2
122Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *2
123Chargeable Event6a *5
124Lips Off My Shofarot6a *5
125Lane Discipline6a *2
126Hogging The Mid Lane6a *2
127Life In The Slow Lane6b+ **4
128Quiet Flows The Don5a 5
129Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c *5
130Sultan's Spring5c 2
131Blowing The Ram's HornVS 4c  
132Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 5a  
133TumbledownHS 4b 1
134Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 5a  
135Nietzche's Niche5c *3
136Reverted Revisionist6a+ **6
137Cartesian Dualism5a *10
138Descarte's Dithers5c *9
139Archimedes Screws6a+ *6
140The Burning Glass6b+ **5
141Siege Of Syracuse6b **3
 LONG WALL  
143Socrates Sucks5c 2
144Kant Hooks4c *3
145Sartres FliesM 2
146Sartre's UnderlayVS 1
147The Carpetbagger4c *2
148Fermat's Last Theorem5c *3
149Oreste's Suffering6a+ *4
150The Probing Proctologist6a *4
151Electra's Revenge5c *5
152Jim'll Fix ItVS 5a 1
 MOVED CLIMBS FROM TEMPLE BAY  
154Alchemy of Error *6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore

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