Climbs 179
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stone Wings Cliff 
2Waiting Wuss Open Project1  
3Liassic Lark7a *78
4In Search Of Bedrock7a+ *11
5Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
6Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **34
7The Dai Vinci Coed7c **4
8Methuselah8a *** 
9This god Is Mine7b+ ***52
10Masada8a+ ***35
11Stone WingsE5 *2
12The Uninvited Guest7b+ 6
13Mr. T.8a+ **1
14Super Size Me7c+ **10
15Staple Diet7b ***116
16Tragic Moustache7a **32
17Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **46
18Magic Touch6b **47
19Pelagic Mush6a+ *100
20Sideburn6b+ *64
21Spear The Bearded Clam6b 62
22Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 16
 Dunraven Cliff 
24Tufa Joy7a 10
25Tufa At The Top7a **40
26Its Tufa At The Bottom7a+ *8
27Tufa Tennis6c *16
28PCB6a 28
29Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ **36
30World vs Gibson7a **31
31Straining At The Leash7b **6
32Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **8
33There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *51
34Plus Ca Change7b *7
35Hanging By A Thread6c ***163
36Edge-More7c 5
37Edge Hog7b+ ***29
38Grow Up7c *3
39Pasty = Man Boobs4a 28
40Young, Gifted and Beige4a 9
41The Overlook7b+ *4
42Anchors Away6b+ *11
43Cast Adrift6c *16
44Broken On The Rocks6b *20
45Marooned6b 18
 Witches Cave 
47Rabbit From A HatVD 8
48Fatman And Nob In3+ 13
49Gay Batman5a 36
50Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 46
51Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c *57
52Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *55
53Magic Circle6b *30
54Smoke And Mirrors6b **38
55Great Expectorations6b **29
56Phlegmatic Solution6c **14
57Evil Ways7b **6
58Evil Kneeful7a+ ***8
59Willie The Pimp6c+ **4
60White WitchE5  
61Thin Lizzy6c+ **22
62Wrasse Wipe6c *10
63Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c *6
64Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *12
65Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 19
66Wrasse Bandit6b+ 8
67Sore Wrasse6c 4
68Wrassetafarian6b+ 4
69Little Wrasse Cull6a 4
70Little Wrasse TurdHS 1
71Little Wrasse TicklerHS 2
72Chateau Lefat 69HS 1
73Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS 1
74The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c 2
 Witches Tip Main Cliff 
76Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
77PaternosterE3 5c **1
78It's All BollocksE2 6b 2
79Fishermen's FriendE2 5b 1
80Royal HeadacheE3 6b 1
81Jilter's Wall
-
E2 5c 4
82Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
-
VS 4b 5
83Leg overE4 6a 1
84PulloverE3 6a 2
85Hand OverE1 5a 1
86Gloss OverE3 5b 1
87Eugene's Over
-
E1 5c 2
88CrossoverHVS 5a  
89How well it flows
-
HVS 5b 3
90Arcana
-
E4 5c 1
91Lysistera
-
E5 6a 1
92Bridges EndE4 6b 2
93UndercutE1 5c 3
94Up In SmokeE3 5c *4
95Step AsideE1 5c 6
96Cold Shoulder
-
HVS 5b 4
97BreakoutHVS 2
98Fast Flow 1E1 5b *5
99Fast Flow 2E1 5b *4
100Fast Flow 3E2 5b *3
101Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *3
102Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
103Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
104Waiting GameHVS 5a 3
 Temple Bay - First Inlet 
106Long Awaited6c *9
107Fools Rush In6c+ **5
108Lasting ImpressionsE3 * 
109Dross of 866b *8
110Sixty Eight Plus One6b 12
111Blow me, Another one5c *14
112Matt Of The Iron Gland6a *12
113Wrecker's Bay6a+ *12
114Surly Temple6a+ *11
 Temple Bay - Second Inlet 
116Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ *3
117Alchemy of Error6a 3
118Ow7a 2
119300 Spartans6b *3
120Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 3
121Minsir6c *3
122Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 3
123Tip Ripper6c *4
124Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ *8
125Euclid's Theorem6a *9
126Gift Of The Gods6b+ 4
127Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
128Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 6
129All Greek To Me5c 6
130One Less For The Spoiler4c 6
131JerichoE3 5c  
132Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 3
133Prometheus Bound5c 3
134Oceanus Aches6a 3
135Dodecanese Dalliance5b 3
 Cave Inlet 
137The Barnacle Bill6b *3
138Canaan GruntsHVS 1
139Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *6
140Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ *2
141Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *3
142Chargeable Event6a *6
143Lips Off My Shofarot6a+ *8
144Lane Discipline6a+ *5
145Hogging The Mid Lane6b *7
146Life in the Slow Lane6b+ *1
147Life In The Slow LaneHVS 7
148Quiet Flows The Don5b 6
149Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c 6
150Sultan's Spring5c 3
151Blowing The Ram's HornVS 1
152Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 1
153TumbledownHS 2
154Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 1
155Nietzche's Niche5c *6
156Reverted Revisionist6a+ *13
157Cartesian Dualism5b *14
158Descarte's Dithers5c *17
159Archimedes Screws6a+ *14
160The Burning Glass6b **6
161Siege Of Syracuse6b **7
 Long Wall 
163Socrates Sucks5c 6
164Kant Hooks4c *10
165Rude BuoysHS 1
166Sartres FliesM 5
167Sartre's UnderlayVS 5
168The Carpetbagger4c *5
169Fermat's Last Theorem5b *6
170Oreste's Suffering6a+ *7
171The Probing Proctologist6a *5
172Electra's Revenge5c 8
173Jim'll Fix It
-
VS 5a 3
174Now Then Now ThenVS 4c 2
175Method of ExhaustionHS 4b 2
176Reductio Ad Absurdum
-
VD 3
177Ad InfinitumS 2
 Moved climbs from Temple bay cave 
179Ankor watV4 3
180Ankor thomV3 **3
181Heading to the lightV2 3
182Sagrada familiaV8+ **1
183LuxorV5 **3
184El miradorV0 3
185King Soloman'sV7 **2
186Tweeter and the monkey manV1 **3
187KashmirV1 3
188No Push Over E2 5c 1
 Routes Added from Rockfax Book 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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