Witches Point (Stone Wing Cliff, White Witch Crag,

Climbs 155 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude Tidal – Faces SW

Crag features
One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes
Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.

Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.

Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), South East Wales Sports Climbs (1995), www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1In Search Of Bedrock7a+ 6
2Liassic Lark7a *60
3Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
4Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **25
5The Dai Vinci Coed7c *2
6This god Is Mine7b+ ***39
7Masada8a+ ***20
8Stone WingsE5 6a 2
9The Uninvited Guest7b+ 5
10Mr. T.8a+ **1
11Super Size Me7c+ **5
12Staple Diet7b ***79
13Tragic Moustache7a *27
14Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **39
15Magic Touch6b *43
16Pelagic Mush6a 91
17Sideburn6b+ *57
18Spear The Bearded Clam5c 56
19Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 15
20PCB5c 28
21Tufa Joy6c+ 10
22Tufa At The Top7a **33
23Its Tufa At The Bottom7b 6
24Tufa Tennis6c+ *15
25Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ 32
26World vs Gibson7a **28
27Straining At The Leash7b **5
28Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **7
29There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *45
30Plus Ca Change7b *7
31Hanging By A Thread6c ***127
32Edge-More7b+ 5
33Edge Hog7b+ ***27
34Grow Up7c *3
35Pasty = Man Boobs3+ *22
36Young, Gifted and Beige4a 3
37The Overlook7b+ *4
38Anchors Away6b+ 8
39Cast Adrift6b 13
40Broken On The Rocks6a+ 17
41Marooned6a+ 15
 THIN LIZZY BUTTRESS  
43Rabbit From A HatVD 3
44Fatman And Nob In3+ 7
45Gay Batman5a 29
46Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 35
47Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c 47
48Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *42
49Magic Circle6b *24
50Smoke And Mirrors6b *31
51Great Expectorations6b **17
52Phlegmatic Solution6c **10
53Evil Ways7b *6
54Evil Kneeful7a+ ***6
55Willie The Pimp6c+ **2
56Thin Lizzy6c **20
57Wrasse Wipe6b+ *8
58Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c 4
59Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *12
60Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 19
61Wrasse Bandit6b 8
62Sore Wrasse6c 4
63Wrassetafarian6b+ *4
64Little Wrasse Cull6a 3
65Little Wrasse TurdHS  
66Little Wrasse TicklerHS 1
67Chateau Lefat 69HS  
68Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS  
69The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c *1
 WITCHES TIP MAIN CLIFF  
71Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
72It's All BollocksE2 6b 1
73Jilter's WallE2 5c 3
74Wanker's Crack/Professor's CrackVS 4b 5
75Eugene's OverE1 5c 2
76How well it flowsHVS 5b 2
77ArcanaE4 5c 1
78LysisteraE5 6a 1
79Bridges EndE4 6b 1
80UndercutE1 5c 3
81Up In SmokeE3 5c *3
82Step AsideE1 5c 5
83Cold ShoulderHVS 5b 3
84BreakoutHVS 2
85Fast Flow 1E1 5b *4
86Fast Flow 2E1 5b *3
87Fast Flow 3E2 5b *2
88Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *2
89Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
90Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
91Waiting GameHVS 5a 2
92Long Awaited6c+ *7
93Fools Rush In6c+ **3
94Dross of 866b *6
95Blow me, Another one5c 9
96Sixty Eight Plus One6b *9
97Matt Of The Iron Gland6a 9
98Wrecker's Bay6a+ 9
99Surly Temple6a 8
 MOVED CLIMBS  
101Alchemy of Error6a 1
102Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ 2
103Ow7a 2
104300 Spartans6b *2
105Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 1
106Minsir6c *2
107Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 1
108Tip Ripper6c+ *2
109Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ **5
110Euclid's Theorem6a *7
111Gift Of The Gods6b+ 5
112Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
113Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 5
114All Greek To Me5c 5
115One Less For The Spoiler4c 5
116JerichoE3 5c  
117Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 2
118Prometheus Bound5c 2
119Oceanus Aches6a 2
120Dodecanese Dalliance5b 2
 CAVE INLET  
122The Barnacle Bill6b *2
123Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *3
124Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ **2
125Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *2
126Chargeable Event6a *5
127Lips Off My Shofarot6a *5
128Lane Discipline6a *4
129Hogging The Mid Lane6a *4
130Life In The Slow Lane6b+ **4
131Quiet Flows The Don5a 5
132Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c *5
133Sultan's Spring5c 2
134Blowing The Ram's HornVS 4c  
135Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 5a  
136TumbledownHS 4b 1
137Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 5a  
138Nietzche's Niche5c *3
139Reverted Revisionist6a+ **8
140Cartesian Dualism5a *12
141Descarte's Dithers5c *11
142Archimedes Screws6a+ *9
143The Burning Glass6b+ **5
144Siege Of Syracuse6b **5
 LONG WALL  
146Socrates Sucks5c 4
147Kant Hooks4c *5
148Rude BuoysHS 4a 1
149Sartres FliesM 4
150Sartre's UnderlayVS 4
151The Carpetbagger4c *3
152Fermat's Last Theorem5c *5
153Oreste's Suffering6a+ *4
154The Probing Proctologist6a *4
155Electra's Revenge5c *5
156Jim'll Fix ItVS 5a 2
157Now Then Now ThenVS 4c 1
158Method of ExhaustionHS 4b 1
159Reductio Ad AbsurdumVD 2
160Ad InfinitumS 1
 MOVED CLIMBS FROM TEMPLE BAY  
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