Climbs 178
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

SuperSizeMe F7c, Witches Point © simon rawlinson

Crag features

One of the best sports climbings spots in the South of Britain. The rocks is like Lower Pen Trwyn.Hanging By A Thread (F6c) is one of the best of its grade anywhere, Edge-Hog (F7b+), Masada (F8a) and Staple Diet (F7b) are all 3 star routes.

There are a lot of shorter routes on the sea walls on the tip itself.

Approach notes

Witches Tip is only accessible an hour or two either side of low water. The main crags are rarely affected by the tide, but you can get cut off in the corner of the beach an hour either side of high water. If you'll potentially be climbing whilst the tide is in its advisable to inform the staff in the small shop situated in the car park that you plan to do so, as they'll call out the coastguard if anyone appears to be stranded on the point.
Sea Walls are affected if there is heavy swell.
Approach from Southerndown (Dunraven Bay). Park in P&Disp car park and cross the beach, or walk over the headland to the W side of the point facing Dunraven Bay.

These problems are very good - good rock although landings can be a bit awkward particularly if you don't have lots of mats - I bouldered extensively here in the 90s and have probably done most of those described
Eugetj - 30/Jan/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Stone Wings Cliff 
2Waiting Wuss Open Project1  
3Liassic Lark7a *78
4In Search Of Bedrock7a+ *11
5Wilma !!!! Help Me Look For My Bedsocks7c *1
6Help Me, Help Me Rhondda7c **34
7The Dai Vinci Coed7c **4
8This god Is Mine7b+ ***52
9Masada8a+ ***35
10Stone WingsE5 *2
11The Uninvited Guest7b+ 6
12Mr. T.8a+ **1
13Super Size Me7c+ **10
14Staple Diet7b ***116
15Tragic Moustache7a **32
16Five O'Clock Shadow6c+ **46
17Magic Touch6b **47
18Pelagic Mush6a+ *100
19Sideburn6b+ *64
20Spear The Bearded Clam6b 62
21Slurp The Savoury Oyster5c 16
22PCB6a 28
 Dunraven Cliff 
24Tufa Joy7a 10
25Tufa At The Top7a **40
26Its Tufa At The Bottom7a+ *8
27Tufa Tennis6c *16
28Croeso-I-Gymru6b+ **36
29World vs Gibson7a **31
30Straining At The Leash7b **6
31Leave It To The Dogs7a+ **8
32There's Life In The Old Dog Yet6c+ *51
33Plus Ca Change7b *7
34Hanging By A Thread6c ***163
35Edge-More7c 5
36Edge Hog7b+ ***29
37Grow Up7c *3
38Pasty = Man Boobs4a 28
39Young, Gifted and Beige4a 9
40The Overlook7b+ *4
41Anchors Away6b+ *11
42Cast Adrift6c *16
43Broken On The Rocks6b *20
44Marooned6b 18
 Witches Cave 
46Rabbit From A HatVD 8
47Fatman And Nob In3+ 13
48Gay Batman5a 36
49Robin's Yoghurt Supper5a 46
50Abra-Ker-Fucking-Dabra5c *57
51Sorcerer's Assistant6a+ *55
52Magic Circle6b *30
53Smoke And Mirrors6b **38
54Great Expectorations6b **29
55Phlegmatic Solution6c **14
56Evil Ways7b **6
57Evil Kneeful7a+ ***8
58Willie The Pimp6c+ **4
59White WitchE5  
60Thin Lizzy6c+ **22
61Wrasse Wipe6c *10
62Wrasseputin's Hypodermic Typewriter6c *6
63Didymo Clogs Yer Tackle6b *12
64Fishermen Pump Their Rods6a+ 19
65Wrasse Bandit6b+ 8
66Sore Wrasse6c 4
67Wrassetafarian6b+ 4
68Little Wrasse Cull6a 4
69Little Wrasse TurdHS 1
70Little Wrasse TicklerHS 2
71Chateau Lefat 69HS 1
72Fishermen Mash Their BaitHS 1
73The Bedraggled Trousered Misogynist5c 2
 Witches Tip Main Cliff 
75Betty SwallocksE4 6a/b 1
76PaternosterE3 5c **1
77It's All BollocksE2 6b 2
78Fishermen's FriendE2 5b 1
79Royal HeadacheE3 6b 1
80Jilter's Wall
E2 5c 4
81Wanker's Crack/Professor's Crack
VS 4b 5
82Leg overE4 6a 1
83PulloverE3 6a 2
84Hand OverE1 5a 1
85Gloss OverE3 5b 1
86Eugene's Over
E1 5c 2
87CrossoverHVS 5a  
88How well it flows
HVS 5b 3
E4 5c 1
E5 6a 1
91Bridges EndE4 6b 2
92UndercutE1 5c 3
93Up In SmokeE3 5c *4
94Step AsideE1 5c 6
95Cold Shoulder
HVS 5b 4
96BreakoutHVS 2
97Fast Flow 1E1 5b *5
98Fast Flow 2E1 5b *4
99Fast Flow 3E2 5b *3
100Aristophanes Plays With TimeE3 6a *3
101Turn Back TimeE2 5b 2
102Surprise SurpriseE1 5b *1
103Waiting GameHVS 5a 3
 Temple Bay - First Inlet 
105Long Awaited6c *9
106Fools Rush In6c+ **5
107Lasting ImpressionsE3 * 
108Dross of 866b *8
109Sixty Eight Plus One6b 12
110Blow me, Another one5c *14
111Matt Of The Iron Gland6a *12
112Wrecker's Bay6a+ *12
113Surly Temple6a+ *11
 Temple Bay - Second Inlet 
115Themis Is Out Of Order6a+ *3
116Alchemy of Error6a 3
117Ow7a 2
118300 Spartans6b *3
119Sliced Up At Thermopylae6a 3
120Minsir6c *3
121Leonidas Last Breakfast6a+ 3
122Tip Ripper6c *3
123Achilles Hasn't A Foot To Stand On6b+ *6
124Euclid's Theorem6a *7
125Gift Of The Gods6b+ 4
126Gods Of Long Ashton6a 7
127Dark Force Of Glamorgan6a 6
128All Greek To Me5c 6
129One Less For The Spoiler4c 6
130JerichoE3 5c  
131Medusa Spares No Head6a+ 3
132Prometheus Bound5c 3
133Oceanus Aches6a 3
134Dodecanese Dalliance5b 3
 Cave Inlet 
136The Barnacle Bill6b *3
137Canaan GruntsHVS  
138Hundred Years Of Reflection6b+ *6
139Dulce Et Decorum Est6b+ *2
140Zacchaeus Repents6b+ *3
141Chargeable Event6a *6
142Lips Off My Shofarot6a+ *6
143Lane Discipline6a+ *5
144Hogging The Mid Lane6b *5
145Life in the Slow Lane6b+ * 
146Life In The Slow LaneHVS 7
147Quiet Flows The Don5b 6
148Heading For A Sea Of Tears5c 6
149Sultan's Spring5c 3
150Blowing The Ram's HornVS 1
151Climb A Sycamore TreeHVS 1
152TumbledownHS 2
153Consequentialist PerfectionismHVS 1
154Nietzche's Niche5c *6
155Reverted Revisionist6a+ *13
156Cartesian Dualism5b *14
157Descarte's Dithers5c *17
158Archimedes Screws6a+ *15
159The Burning Glass6b **6
160Siege Of Syracuse6b **7
 Long Wall 
162Socrates Sucks5c 6
163Kant Hooks4c *10
164Rude BuoysHS 1
165Sartres FliesM 5
166Sartre's UnderlayVS 5
167The Carpetbagger4c *5
168Fermat's Last Theorem5b *6
169Oreste's Suffering6a+ *7
170The Probing Proctologist6a *5
171Electra's Revenge5c 8
172Jim'll Fix It
VS 5a 3
173Now Then Now ThenVS 4c 2
174Method of ExhaustionHS 4b 2
175Reductio Ad Absurdum
VD 3
176Ad InfinitumS 2
 Moved climbs from Temple bay cave 
178Ankor watV4 3
179Ankor thomV3 **3
180Heading to the lightV2 3
181Sagrada familiaV8+ **1
182LuxorV5 **3
183El miradorV0 3
184King Soloman'sV7 **2
185Tweeter and the monkey manV1 **3
186KashmirV1 3
187No Push Over *E2 5c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore