Climbs 259
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

Here Come the Falls © Sean Bell

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.


South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Out of print:
What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
chakrit - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc):
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower River 
2All Aboardf6C+ 1
3Lichen Upf6C+ 4
4The Boatman's TraverseV3 9
5The BoatmanV8 ***14
6Captain Jackf6C+ *4
7Boatman Startf7A *3
8Fyfes Traversef7B+ **2
 Car Park Bouldering 
10The SplinchVB **7
11The RampV2 *10
12RamplessV5 **6
13RailedV3 **9
14Car Park OriginalV1 **8
15HalfwayV4 *5
17Evening WallVD **25
18Flake WallHD 4a 2
19SlickensideE2 5c 5
20Frizzy BitsE2 5c *5
21Jeepers CreepersHVS 5a 22
22Sense of HumourE2 5c 3
23Fromage Frais5c *143
24Smeghead4c *11
25Rob Roy7a **73
26Cheesy Rider6b+ **68
27Creme De Roquefort6b+ *16
28Creme de Rockfall6b+ 41
29Scraping The Barrel6a+ 49
30Tapping The Keg6c 33
31Pinheads6c 5
32Skin Ed7c **24
33The Inflated Roundhead7a+ *67
34Charlie's Rusks6c *52
35The Deflated Dick-Head6b *96
36Mr Potato Head6a+ *86
37Pot Head5c 83
38The Dented Cavalier
E1 5a 5
39The Dumbfounded Dunderhead6b 52
40Smeg Head4c **114
41Bonehead5b 4
42Bone Head5a *66
43Tithead6a 31
44The People's Democratic Republic Of Maesteg6a 51
45Connect One6a 44
46South West Guru6b 35
47Deadly Nightshade6c *24
48Screaming Lampshades6c+ 18
49Big Ears Takes Flight6b+ 6
50The Wake6b+ *7
51Bob's Birthday Party6b *9
52Cujo6c *6
53Thinner7a *10
54The Running Man7a *16
55Miss Alto6b *20
56For The Love Of IvyHVS 4
57The Regulators7c *9
58The De-Regulators7a+ *27
59Beware of Poachers6c+ *56
60Open Roads6b+ *47
61Squash The Squaddie6b+ *44
62Thousand Yard Stare6c+ *25
63Pugsley7a *26
64Munsterosity7a+ *24
65Morticia7a 56
 Kennelgarth Wall 
67Technitis6c 8
68By Proxy7a 8
69Out Come The Freaks7a+ 5
70Fings Ain't What They Used To Be7b+ **9
71Kennelgarth7b+ *2
72Siberian Husky7b+ *1
73Tufa8a+ 2
74Eugene's High Point7b+  
 Lower Cave Area 
76The Dandelion Slab7a 2
77Rose-Line7b+ ***16
78Smashed Rat7c ***8
79Rat On A Hot Tin Roof7b ***32
80The First Step To Enlightenment5a 3
81Watchmen7b ***11
82Sangreal7b+ ***9
83Sangria Finish7b+ 2
84Strider DirectHVS 5a *3
85Basilica7b+ **4
86Tiger Cut7c+  
 Main Cliff 
88Pis En Lit6b 35
89Illegal Congress6b 10
90Family Values6a+ 10
91Stray Cats7a *6
92Puss Off7a *4
93Each Way Nudger6b+ *8
94When Push Comes To Shove7a+ *3
95When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish)7b 5
96Call a Spade a Spade6c *40
97Totally Radish6c *36
98Finger PinchE3 5c 2
99Durbin Two, Watson Nil7c *2
100Giant KillerE6 *2
101The Road To Eldorado5a *67
102Mortal Kombat8b ***2
103Dina CracE9 *** 
104Gorilliant7a *9
105Sport Wars8a **4
106Spore Wars7b+ **4
107Bloody Sport Climbers!8a **5
108Bloody Link Ups!8a 1
109Bloody Spore Climbers!8a *3
110Captain Barbarossa8a **2
111The Black Pearl8a ***2
112H1N18a **31
113Subversive Body Pumping7b+ *5
114Dinasty8a ***2
115Powers That Be7c **4
116Hayabusa7c+ **7
117Berlin7a+ ***142
118Berlin Extension7b ***40
119Still Life7b+ ***14
120Just In Time7c **3
121Last of the Big Time link ups!E6 **1
122Outta Time7c+ ***6
123Chives Of Freedom7c **9
124Crock Of Gold7c **8
125Crock of Shit7c **2
126Salem's Lot7b+ **5
127The Sharp Cereal Professor7b ***51
128Muchas Maracas7c **4
129Harlem7b+ ***21
130Hawaiian Chance7c *2
131SpainE4 ***7
132Groovy Tube DayE2 **18
133Dr. Van Steiner7a+ 1
 Terrace Cliff 
135Academy Awards6c **15
136Dream Academy Right Hand6b+ **5
137Dream Academy6c **19
138El Camino Del Roy6c+ **29
139Danny La Rue7a+ 9
140Incidentally X7b+ *8
141Tortilla Flats7b *1
142Pour Marcel7b *1
143Brazilian Blend6c+ **3
144Sverige7a *2
145Ma's Strict7a+ *1
146Breakout6c **2
147Vitamin Z7a  
 Regulation Wall Bouldering 
149Rocknrollaf5+ *6
150Rocknrolla (SDS)f6C+ **3
151Slippy Slabf5+ 6
152Gay and Greyf5+ 6
153Rock Outf4 9
1541 Inch Punchf6A 3
155Boba Fet Touched my Wangf6A+ 1
156Simon's Traversef6C+ *12
157Simons 'full' Traversef7B+ **4
158Green Roomf6B+ 2
159Green Room RighthandV4 1
160The Prow (Sit Start)f5+ 8
 Kennelgarth Bouldering 
162Achillesf6B+ *78
163Byte Sizef5+ *165
164Ton SixtyV4 *4
165Monkey Magicf6C *50
166Monkey Boyf6B *80
167Banana Boyf7A 39
168Paper Boyf7A 50
169Puppy Lovef6A *87
170Team Puppy Explosionf6C *5
171Dogtownf6C **19
172Gentle Jess Crouch Startf6C+ ***88
173Gentle Jess Sit Down Startf7A ***84
174The Groovef7A+ 50
175Infidelf7A 34
176The Mongrel Mobf7A+ 44
177Poodle Traversef6A *125
178Poodle Traverse (Footless)f6C+ *33
179Low Downf7A **4
180Great White Starkef6A **61
181Starke Attackf6A *39
182Made By Magicf7C 7
183Mr Magicf7C+ ***11
184The Magic Catf7B **10
185Riding Hannahf7A 49
186The Honey Potf6C+ 96
187Fat Cat Rooff7C ***75
188Fat Cat Directf7C+ *3
189Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Madef7C+ 12
190Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extensionf7C 7
191Taylor Madef7B+ *32
192Taylor Made Eliminatef7C **7
193Taylor Made Footlessf8A 4
194Paul Walkerf7C 2
195Strayf7B 2
196The Blessingf7A 44
197The Blessing + Fyfe Extensionf7A *9
198Shamuf7B+ **20
199The Life of Fyfef7B+ ***56
200Life Of Fyfe Originalf7C ***9
201The Riotf7C+ ***19
202The Carpenters Apprenticef8A+ 4
203Salukif7B+ **24
204Sultan Of Swingf7B+ **2
205Launch Padf6C ***89
206Launch Pad (LH)f7A *49
207Launch Pad Crack Startf7A+ 8
208Stonedf7A *29
209Anthillf7A 14
210Chasing the Tailf6B 12
211Shiny Beastf7A+ 14
 Kennelgarth Traverses 
213The Wrath of Achillesf7C **9
214Lowlifef7C+ **6
215Body Catf7C+ 4
216Checkpoint Charlief7C+ *1
217Throbbin's Traversef8A 5
218Body Wisdomf8A **1
219Wife of Fyfef8A+ ***7
220Low Wifef8A **1
 River Blocs 
222Goonies Aretef6A 4
223Green Fingersf5+ 6
224Devolutionf4+ 4
225Solution Traversef5 3
226Pollutionf5+ 2
227Pauls Aretef6C+ *4
228Gut Lordf5+ 5
229Pauls Problemf6C 5
230Evolutionf7A+ ***20
231Revolutionf6C+ *6
232Illiminutionf7A **3
233Oh Heavanf4+ *1
234Shangri-Laf5+ *1
 Main Crag Bouldering 
236Dog Nutf6C+ **8
237Return of the Midgetsf5 3
238Saturday Shufflef4+ 4
239Roof Warriorf5 3
240Tiny Handsf5+ 3
241Goodbye Gary Goodtimesf7A *2
242Rampant Rabbit Returnf6C+ *4
243Awesome Shedf7B+ *13
244Awesome Shed Directf7B+ *7
245Mega Ten Originalf7C+ **3
246Mega Ten Reclimbedf8A **3
247Boy Racerf7C **21
248Jet Bluef7C **12
249Butch Cassidyf8A ***5
250Jed Blackf8A ***4
251Berlin Sit Startf6C+ *23
252How Soon Is Nowf7B **2
253Kim JongV3 7
254The Sharp Cereal ConfessorV3 6
 Silver Surfer Area 
256Upperboat Manf6A ***2
257Go with the flowf6B *1
258Berlin reich handf7A *3
259V0- *V0- 2
260The SS *f7B *2
261Nectar *f7C 1
262Dash berlin *VE ** 
263Dash berlin *f7C **1
264Skinny Dog direct *f7A+ **2
265Kick the dog next door *E2 5c 1
266Continental touch *E1 5b  
267Torrents Of Spring *E3 5c 1
268Torrent Direct *A0 1
269Black fox *E4 6b  
270Running blind *E4 6b  
271Cool hand fluke *E3 5c  
272SWBG Route 2 *V0- 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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