Climbs 245
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

Here Come the Falls © Sean Bell

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
chakrit - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc): http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower River 
2All Aboardf6C+ 1
3Lichen Upf6C+ 4
4The Boatman's TraverseV3 8
5The BoatmanV8 ***13
6Captain Jackf6C+ *4
7Boatman Startf7A *3
8Fyfes Traversef7B+ **2
 Car Park Bouldering 
10The SplinchVB **5
11The RampV2 *9
12RamplessV5 **4
13RailedV3 **7
14Car Park OriginalV1 **7
15HalfwayV4 *4
 Cheesy Rider Area 
17Evening WallVD **20
18Flake WallHD 4a 2
19SlickensideE2 5c 5
20Frizzy BitsE2 5c *5
21Jeepers CreepersHVS 5a 21
22Sense of HumourE2 5c 3
23Fromage Frais5c 136
24Smeghead4a **6
25Rob Roy7a 64
26Cheesy Rider
-
6b *64
27Creme De Roquefort6b+ *12
28Creme de Rockfall6b+ 40
29Scraping The Barrel5c 46
30Tapping The Keg6c 31
31Pinheads6b+ 5
32Skin Ed7c *17
33The Inflated Roundhead7a+ *63
34Charlie's Rusks6c 51
35The Deflated Dick-Head6b *93
36Mr Potato Head6a+ *81
37Pot Head5a **77
38The Dented Cavalier
-
E1 5a 5
39The Dumbfounded Dunderhead6b 48
40Smeg Head4c **102
41Bonehead5a *3
42Bone Head5a *61
43Tithead6a 27
44The People's Democratic Republic Of Maesteg6a 46
45Connect One6a 44
46South West Guru6b 35
47Deadly Nightshade6c 24
48Screaming Lampshades6c+ 18
49Big Ears Takes Flight6c 5
50The Wake6b 5
51Bob's Birthday Party6b 8
52Cujo6c *6
53Thinner6c+ *10
54The Running Man7a *16
55Miss Alto6a+ *20
56For The Love Of IvyHVS 5a 4
57The Regulators7c *9
58The De-Regulators7b *27
59Beware Of Poachers Direct6c *55
60Open Roads6b+ 47
61Squash The Squaddie6b 43
62Thousand Yard Stare6c+ *23
63Pugsley7a *23
64Munsterosity7a *23
65Morticia7a 52
 Kennelgarth Wall 
67Technitis6c 7
68By Proxy7a 7
69Out Come The Freaks7a+ 5
70Fings Ain't What They Used To Be7b **9
71Kennelgarth7b *2
72Siberian Husky7b+ 1
73Tufa8a+ 2
74Eugene's High Point7b+  
 Lower Cave Area 
76Sangreal7b+ **9
77Watchmen7b **11
78Rose-Line7b+ ***16
79Smashed Rat7c ***8
80Strider DirectHVS 5a *3
81Sangria Finish7b+ **2
82Rat On A Hot Tin Roof7b ***30
83Basilica7b+ **4
84The Dandelion Slab7a *2
85The First Step To Enlightenment5a 3
 The Main Crag 
87Pis En Lit6b 30
88Illegal Congress6b 9
89Family Values6a+ 9
90Stray Cats7a *6
91Puss Off7a *4
92Each Way Nudger6b+ 8
93When Push Comes To Shove7a+ 3
94When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish)7a+ *5
95Call a Spade a Spade6c 40
96Totally Radish6b+ *35
97Finger PinchE3 5c 2
98Durbin Two, Watson Nil7c **2
99Giant KillerE6 6a **2
100The Road To Eldorado5a *62
101Mortal Kombat8a+ **2
102Gorilliant7a *9
103Sport Wars7b+ *3
104Spore Wars7b+ **2
105Bloody Sport Climbers!8a **5
106Bloody Link Ups!8a 1
107Bloody Spore Climbers!8a *1
108Captain Barbarossa8a 2
109The Black Pearl8a **2
110H1N18a *18
111Subversive Body Pumping7b+ *5
112Dinasty8a **2
113Powers That Be7c+ **4
114Hayabusa7c+ **6
115Berlin7a+ ***101
116Berlin Extension7b ***37
117Still Life7b+ ***12
118Just In Time7c **3
119Last of the Big Time link ups!7c+ **1
120Outta Time7c+ **6
121Chives Of Freedom7c **8
122Crock Of Gold7c+ *5
123Crock of Shit7c **2
124Salem's Lot7b+ **5
125The Sharp Cereal Professor7b ***39
126Muchas Maracas7c **4
127Harlem7b+ ***21
128Hawaiian Chance7c *2
129SpainE4 6a **7
130Groovy Tube DayE1 5b *17
131Dr. Van Steiner7b 1
132Academy Awards6c **14
133Dream Academy Right Hand6b+ **5
134Dream Academy6b+ *19
135El Camino Del Roy6c+ ***19
136Danny La Rue7b 9
137Incidentally X7b+ **8
138Tortilla Flats7b *1
139Pour Marcel7b *1
140Brazilian Blend6c+ **3
141Sverige7a 2
142Breakout6c **2
143Ma's Strict7a+ *1
 Regulation Wall Bouldering 
145Rocknrollaf5+ *6
146Rocknrolla (SDS)f6C+ **3
147Slippy Slabf5+ 6
148Gay and Greyf5+ 6
149Rock Outf4 9
1501 Inch Punchf6A 3
151Boba Fet Touched my Wangf6A+ 1
152Simon's Traversef6C+ *12
153Simons 'full' Traversef7B+ **4
154Green Roomf6B+ 2
155Green Room RighthandV4 1
156The Prow (Sit Start)f5+ 8
 Kennelgarth Bouldering 
158Achillesf6B+ *71
159Byte Sizef5+ *148
160Monkey Magicf6C *44
161Monkey Boyf6B *74
162Banana Boyf7A 36
163Paper Boyf7A 47
164Puppy Lovef6A *81
165Team Puppy Explosionf6C *5
166Dogtownf6C **18
167Gentle Jess Crouch Startf6C+ ***78
168Gentle Jess Sit Down Startf7A ***69
169The Groovef7A+ 46
170Infidelf7A 34
171The Mongrel Mobf7A+ 42
172Poodle Traversef6A *111
173Poodle Traverse (Footless)f6C+ *28
174Low Downf7A **2
175Great White Starkef6A **55
176Starke Attackf6A *35
177Made By Magicf7C 7
178Mr Magicf7C+ ***9
179The Magic Catf7B **9
180Riding Hannahf7A 45
181The Honey Potf6C+ 87
182Fat Cat Rooff7C ***49
183Fat Cat Directf7C+ *3
184Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Madef7C+ 12
185Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extensionf7C 7
186Taylor Madef7C *28
187Taylor Made Eliminatef7C **6
188Taylor Made + Fyfe Extensionf7C 5
189Taylor Made Footlessf8A 4
190The Blessingf7A 37
191The Blessing + Fyfe Extensionf7A *9
192Shamuf7B+ **18
193The Life of Fyfef7B+ ***40
194Life Of Fyfe Originalf7C ***8
195The Riotf7C+ ***10
196The Carpenters Apprenticef8A+ 4
197Salukif7B+ **24
198Sultan Of Swingf7B+ **2
199Launch Padf6C ***78
200Launch Pad (LH)f7A *44
201Launch Pad Crack Startf7A+ 3
202Stonedf7A *27
203Anthillf7A 12
204Chasing the Tailf6B 12
205Shiny Beastf7A+ 12
 Kennelgarth Traverses 
207The Wrath of Achillesf7C **8
208Lowlifef7C+ **6
209Body Catf7C+ 4
210Checkpoint Charlief7C+ *1
211Throbbin's Traversef8A 5
212Body Wisdomf8A **1
213Wife of Fyfef8A+ ***3
214Low Wifef8A **1
 River Blocs 
216Goonies Aretef6A 4
217Green Fingersf5+ 6
218Devolutionf4+ 4
219Solution Traversef5 3
220Pollutionf5+ 2
221Pauls Aretef6C+ *4
222Gut Lordf5+ 5
223Pauls Problemf6C 5
224Evolutionf7A+ ***19
225Revolutionf6C+ *6
226Illiminutionf7A **3
227Oh Heavanf4+ *1
228Shangri-Laf5+ *1
 Main Crag Bouldering 
230Dog Nutf6C+ **8
231Return of the Midgetsf5 3
232Saturday Shufflef4+ 4
233Roof Warriorf5 3
234Tiny Handsf5+ 3
235Goodbye Gary Goodtimesf7A *2
236Rampant Rabbit Returnf6C+ *4
237Awesome Shedf7B+ *13
238Awesome Shed Directf7B+ *7
239Mega Ten Originalf7C+ **3
240Mega Ten Reclimbedf8A **3
241Boy Racerf7C **21
242Jet Bluef7C **12
243Butch Cassidyf8A ***5
244Jed Blackf8A ***4
245Berlin Sit Startf6C+ *21
246How Soon Is Nowf7B **2
247Kim JongV3 7
248The Sharp Cereal ConfessorV3 6
 Silver Surfer Area 
250Upperboat Manf6A ***2
251Go with the flowf6B *1
252Berlin reich handf7A *2
253Strayf7B 1
254Paul Walkerf7C 2
255Ton Sixty *V4 *2
256V0- *V0- 1
257The SS *f7B *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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