Climbs 246
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

Here Come the Falls © Sean Bell

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
chakrit - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc): http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower River 
2All Aboardf6C+ 1
3Lichen Upf6C+ 4
4The Boatman's TraverseV3 8
5The BoatmanV8 ***13
6Captain Jackf6C+ *4
7Boatman Startf7A *3
8Fyfes Traversef7B+ **2
 Car Park Bouldering 
10The SplinchVB **6
11The RampV2 *9
12RamplessV5 **4
13RailedV3 **7
14Car Park OriginalV1 **7
15HalfwayV4 *4
 Cheesy Rider Area 
17Evening WallVD **21
18Flake WallHD 4a 2
19SlickensideE2 5c 5
20Frizzy BitsE2 5c *5
21Jeepers CreepersHVS 5a 22
22Sense of HumourE2 5c 3
23Fromage Frais5c 140
24Smeghead4a **10
25Rob Roy7a 66
26Cheesy Rider
-
6b *66
27Creme De Roquefort6b+ *15
28Creme de Rockfall6b+ 40
29Scraping The Barrel5c 48
30Tapping The Keg6c 32
31Pinheads6b+ 5
32Skin Ed7c *17
33The Inflated Roundhead7a+ *63
34Charlie's Rusks6c 51
35The Deflated Dick-Head6b *95
36Mr Potato Head6a+ *84
37Pot Head5a **83
38The Dented Cavalier
-
E1 5a 5
39The Dumbfounded Dunderhead6b 51
40Smeg Head4c **107
41Bonehead5a *4
42Bone Head5a *66
43Tithead6a 31
44The People's Democratic Republic Of Maesteg6a 49
45Connect One6a 44
46South West Guru6b 35
47Deadly Nightshade6c 24
48Screaming Lampshades6c+ 18
49Big Ears Takes Flight6c 6
50The Wake6b 7
51Bob's Birthday Party6b 9
52Cujo6c *6
53Thinner6c+ *10
54The Running Man7a *16
55Miss Alto6a+ *20
56For The Love Of IvyHVS 5a 4
57The Regulators7c *9
58The De-Regulators7b *27
59Beware Of Poachers Direct6c *55
60Open Roads6b+ 47
61Squash The Squaddie6b 44
62Thousand Yard Stare6c+ *23
63Pugsley7a *23
64Munsterosity7a *23
65Morticia7a 52
 Kennelgarth Wall 
67Technitis6c 8
68By Proxy7a 8
69Out Come The Freaks7a+ 5
70Fings Ain't What They Used To Be7b **9
71Kennelgarth7b *2
72Siberian Husky7b+ 1
73Tufa8a+ 2
74Eugene's High Point7b+  
 Lower Cave Area 
76Sangreal7b+ **9
77Watchmen7b **11
78Rose-Line7b+ ***16
79Smashed Rat7c ***8
80Strider DirectHVS 5a *3
81Sangria Finish7b+ **2
82Rat On A Hot Tin Roof7b ***30
83Basilica7b+ **4
84The Dandelion Slab7a *2
85The First Step To Enlightenment5a 3
 The Main Crag 
87Pis En Lit6b 32
88Illegal Congress6b 10
89Family Values6a+ 10
90Stray Cats7a *6
91Puss Off7a *4
92Each Way Nudger6b+ 8
93When Push Comes To Shove7a+ 3
94When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish)7a+ *5
95Call a Spade a Spade6c 40
96Totally Radish6b+ *35
97Finger PinchE3 5c 2
98Durbin Two, Watson Nil7c **2
99Giant KillerE6 6a **2
100The Road To Eldorado5a *62
101Mortal Kombat8a+ **2
102Gorilliant7a *9
103Sport Wars7b+ *4
104Spore Wars7b+ **2
105Bloody Sport Climbers!8a **5
106Bloody Link Ups!8a 1
107Bloody Spore Climbers!8a *1
108Captain Barbarossa8a 2
109The Black Pearl8a **2
110H1N18a *25
111Subversive Body Pumping7b+ *5
112Dinasty8a **2
113Powers That Be7c+ **4
114Hayabusa7c+ **6
115Berlin7a+ ***137
116Berlin Extension7b ***37
117Still Life7b+ ***13
118Just In Time7c **3
119Last of the Big Time link ups!7c+ **1
120Outta Time7c+ **6
121Chives Of Freedom7c **8
122Crock Of Gold7c+ *5
123Crock of Shit7c **2
124Salem's Lot7b+ **5
125The Sharp Cereal Professor7b ***39
126Muchas Maracas7c **4
127Harlem7b+ ***21
128Hawaiian Chance7c *2
129SpainE4 6a **7
130Groovy Tube DayE1 5b *17
131Dr. Van Steiner7b 1
132Academy Awards6c **15
133Dream Academy Right Hand6b+ **5
134Dream Academy6b+ *19
135El Camino Del Roy6c+ ***20
136Danny La Rue7b 9
137Incidentally X7b+ **8
138Tortilla Flats7b *1
139Pour Marcel7b *1
140Brazilian Blend6c+ **3
141Sverige7a 2
142Breakout6c **2
143Ma's Strict7a+ *1
 Regulation Wall Bouldering 
145Rocknrollaf5+ *6
146Rocknrolla (SDS)f6C+ **3
147Slippy Slabf5+ 6
148Gay and Greyf5+ 6
149Rock Outf4 9
1501 Inch Punchf6A 3
151Boba Fet Touched my Wangf6A+ 1
152Simon's Traversef6C+ *12
153Simons 'full' Traversef7B+ **4
154Green Roomf6B+ 2
155Green Room RighthandV4 1
156The Prow (Sit Start)f5+ 8
 Kennelgarth Bouldering 
158Achillesf6B+ *74
159Byte Sizef5+ *155
160Ton SixtyV4 *3
161Monkey Magicf6C *48
162Monkey Boyf6B *78
163Banana Boyf7A 39
164Paper Boyf7A 49
165Puppy Lovef6A *83
166Team Puppy Explosionf6C *5
167Dogtownf6C **19
168Gentle Jess Crouch Startf6C+ ***85
169Gentle Jess Sit Down Startf7A ***82
170The Groovef7A+ 50
171Infidelf7A 34
172The Mongrel Mobf7A+ 43
173Poodle Traversef6A *115
174Poodle Traverse (Footless)f6C+ *29
175Low Downf7A **4
176Great White Starkef6A **57
177Starke Attackf6A *35
178Made By Magicf7C 7
179Mr Magicf7C+ ***11
180The Magic Catf7B **9
181Riding Hannahf7A 45
182The Honey Potf6C+ 91
183Fat Cat Rooff7C ***68
184Fat Cat Directf7C+ *3
185Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Madef7C+ 12
186Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extensionf7C 7
187Taylor Madef7B+ *29
188Taylor Made Eliminatef7C **6
189Taylor Made Footlessf8A 4
190Paul Walkerf7C 2
191Strayf7B 2
192The Blessingf7A 41
193The Blessing + Fyfe Extensionf7A *9
194Shamuf7B+ **21
195The Life of Fyfef7B+ ***43
196Life Of Fyfe Originalf7C ***9
197The Riotf7C+ ***15
198The Carpenters Apprenticef8A+ 4
199Salukif7B+ **24
200Sultan Of Swingf7B+ **2
201Launch Padf6C ***85
202Launch Pad (LH)f7A *47
203Launch Pad Crack Startf7A+ 6
204Stonedf7A *28
205Anthillf7A 14
206Chasing the Tailf6B 12
207Shiny Beastf7A+ 14
 Kennelgarth Traverses 
209The Wrath of Achillesf7C **9
210Lowlifef7C+ **6
211Body Catf7C+ 4
212Checkpoint Charlief7C+ *1
213Throbbin's Traversef8A 5
214Body Wisdomf8A **1
215Wife of Fyfef8A+ ***3
216Low Wifef8A **1
 River Blocs 
218Goonies Aretef6A 4
219Green Fingersf5+ 6
220Devolutionf4+ 4
221Solution Traversef5 3
222Pollutionf5+ 2
223Pauls Aretef6C+ *4
224Gut Lordf5+ 5
225Pauls Problemf6C 5
226Evolutionf7A+ ***19
227Revolutionf6C+ *6
228Illiminutionf7A **3
229Oh Heavanf4+ *1
230Shangri-Laf5+ *1
 Main Crag Bouldering 
232Dog Nutf6C+ **8
233Return of the Midgetsf5 3
234Saturday Shufflef4+ 4
235Roof Warriorf5 3
236Tiny Handsf5+ 3
237Goodbye Gary Goodtimesf7A *2
238Rampant Rabbit Returnf6C+ *4
239Awesome Shedf7B+ *13
240Awesome Shed Directf7B+ *7
241Mega Ten Originalf7C+ **3
242Mega Ten Reclimbedf8A **3
243Boy Racerf7C **21
244Jet Bluef7C **12
245Butch Cassidyf8A ***5
246Jed Blackf8A ***4
247Berlin Sit Startf6C+ *22
248How Soon Is Nowf7B **2
249Kim JongV3 7
250The Sharp Cereal ConfessorV3 6
 Silver Surfer Area 
252Upperboat Manf6A ***2
253Go with the flowf6B *1
254Berlin reich handf7A *3
255V0- *V0- 2
256The SS *f7B *2
257Nectar *f7C 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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