Climbs 259
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 60m a.s.l
Faces SW

simon, Berlin 7A+, Dinas Rock © simon rawlinson

Crag features

A brilliant crag with some of the best climbing in SE Wales: mostly single-pitch routes upto 30m. Often steep, smooth face climbing; harder routes may need dusting off. Most of the routes are now sports routes.

Approach notes

Take the A465 and Glyn Neath Rd (via B4242) to Pontneddfechan. An unclassified road then follows the Afon Sychryd river upstream to a sharp right at a bridge, then the car park. Climbers are asked to avoid parking in the residents parking areas on the approach road, and wherever possible consider sharing transport to minimise the number of cars required.

Take the path to the left from the car park for the main face, heading over the hill, right at the fork, and then right at the river to get to the main cliff.

For the roadside crags and Kennelgarth, take the more obvious track on the right. It is also possible to reach the upper crags by scrambling up from the river at the end of this path.

Access Advice

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from the Forestry Commisson and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Gower & South-East Wales (2004)
Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Out of print:
What would be the best guide book for this carg and where can I get it? Thanks, Kris.
chakrit - 08/Jan/14
This website has lots of useful info (topos etc): http://27crags.com/crags/dinas-rock
Paulos - 03/Mar/12
For the Main Face, you can belay through your sunroof ! Watch out for friable rock at the top; scary when you are leading, annoying when competing centre groups are abseiling down the face and dislodging boulders.
Uncle Nick - 06/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Lower River Bouldering 
2All Aboardf6C+ 1
3Lichen Upf6C+ 4
4The Boatman's TraverseV3 9
5The BoatmanV8 ***14
6Captain Jackf6C+ *4
7Boatman Startf7A *3
8Fyfes Traversef7B+ **2
 Car Park Bouldering 
10The SplinchVB **7
11The RampV2 *10
12RamplessV5 **6
13RailedV3 **9
14Car Park OriginalV1 **8
15HalfwayV4 *5
 Roadside 
17Evening WallVD **25
18Flake WallHD 4a 2
19SlickensideE2 5c 5
20Frizzy BitsE2 5c *5
21Jeepers CreepersHVS 5a 22
22Sense of HumourE2 5c 3
23Fromage Frais5c *144
 Cheesy Rider Area 
25Rob Roy7a **74
26Cheesy Rider6b+ **69
27Creme De Roquefort6b+ *16
28Creme de Rockfall6b+ 41
29Scraping The Barrel6a+ 49
30Tapping The Keg6c 33
 Inflated Roundhead Area 
32Pinheads6c 5
33Skin Ed7c **24
34The Inflated Roundhead7a+ *67
35Charlie's Rusks6c *52
36The Deflated Dick-Head6b *96
37Mr Potato Head6a+ *86
38Pot Head5c 83
39The Dented Cavalier
-
E1 5a 5
40The Dumbfounded Dunderhead6b 52
41Smeghead4c *125
42Bonehead5b 70
43Tithead6a 31
44The People's Democratic Republic Of Maesteg6a 51
 Love of Ivy Area 
46Connect One6a 44
47South West Guru6b 37
48Deadly Nightshade6c *25
49Screaming Lampshades6c+ 18
50Big Ears Takes Flight6b+ 6
51The Wake6b+ *7
52Bob's Birthday Party6b *9
53Cujo6c *6
54Thinner7a *10
55The Running Man7a *16
56Miss Alto6b *20
57For The Love Of IvyHVS 4
58The Regulators7c *9
59The De-Regulators7a+ *32
60Beware of Poachers6c+ *56
61Open Roads6b+ *48
62Squash The Squaddie6b+ *44
63Thousand Yard Stare6c+ *25
64Pugsley7a *26
65Munsterosity7a+ *25
66Morticia7a 56
 Kennelgarth Wall 
68Technitis6c 8
69By Proxy7a 8
70Out Come The Freaks7a+ 5
71Fings Ain't What They Used To Be7b+ **9
72Kennelgarth7b+ *2
73Siberian Husky7b+ *1
74Tufa8a+ 2
75Eugene's High Point7b+  
 Lower Cave Area 
77The Dandelion Slab7a 2
78Rose-Line7b+ ***16
79Watchmen7b ***11
80Smashed Rat7c ***8
81Sangreal7b+ ***9
82Sangria Finish7b+ 2
83Basilica7b+ **4
84Tiger Cut7c+  
85Rat On A Hot Tin Roof7b ***32
86The First Step To Enlightenment5a 3
87Strider DirectHVS 5a *3
 Main Cliff 
89Pis En Lit6b 35
90Illegal Congress6b 10
91Family Values6a+ 10
92Stray Cats7a *6
93Puss Off7a *4
94Each Way Nudger6b+ *8
95When Push Comes To Shove7a+ *3
96When Push Comes To Shove (Direct Finish)7b 5
97Call a Spade a Spade6c *41
98Totally Radish6c *36
99Finger PinchE3 5c 2
100Durbin Two, Watson Nil7c *2
101The Road To Eldorado5a *67
102Giant KillerE6 *2
103Mortal Kombat8b ***2
104Dina CracE9 *** 
105Gorilliant7a *9
106Sport Wars8a **4
107Spore Wars7b+ **4
108Bloody Sport Climbers!8a **5
109Bloody Link Ups!8a 1
110Bloody Spore Climbers!8a *3
111Captain Barbarossa8a **2
112The Black Pearl8a ***2
113H1N18a **31
114Subversive Body Pumping7b+ *5
115Dinasty8a ***2
116Powers That Be7c **4
117Hayabusa7c+ **7
118Berlin7a+ ***142
119Berlin Extension7b ***40
120Still Life7b+ ***14
121Just In Time7c **3
122Outta Time7c+ ***6
123Last of the Big Time link ups!7c+ **1
124The Big TimeE6 ** 
125Chives Of Freedom7c **9
126Crock Of Gold7c **8
127Crock of Shit7c **2
128Salem's Lot7b+ **5
129The Sharp Cereal Professor7b ***51
130Muchas Maracas7c **4
131Harlem7b+ ***21
132Hawaiian Chance7c *2
133SpainE4 ***7
134Groovy Tube DayE2 **18
135Dr. Van Steiner7a+ 1
 Terrace Cliff 
137Academy Awards6c **15
138Dream Academy Right Hand6b+ **5
139Dream Academy6c **20
140El Camino Del Roy6c+ **29
141Danny La Rue7a+ 9
142Incidentally X7b+ *8
143Tortilla Flats7b *1
144Pour Marcel7b *1
145Brazilian Blend6c+ **3
146Sverige7a *2
147Ma's Strict7a+ *1
148Breakout6c **2
149Vitamin Z7a 1
 Regulation Wall Bouldering 
151Rocknrollaf5+ *6
152Rocknrolla (SDS)f6C+ **3
153Slippy Slabf5+ 6
154Gay and Greyf5+ 6
155Rock Outf4 9
1561 Inch Punchf6A 3
157Boba Fet Touched my Wangf6A+ 1
158Simon's Traversef6C+ *12
159Simons 'full' Traversef7B+ **4
160Green Roomf6B+ 2
161Green Room RighthandV4 1
162The Prow (Sit Start)f5+ 8
 Kennelgarth Bouldering 
164Achillesf6B+ *80
165V0-V0- 3
166Byte Sizef5+ *172
167Ton SixtyV4 *6
168Monkey Magicf6C *50
169Monkey Boyf6B *86
170Banana Boyf7A 40
171Paper Boyf7A 50
172Puppy Lovef6A *89
173Team Puppy Explosionf6C *5
174Dogtownf6C **19
175Gentle Jess Crouch Startf6C+ ***92
176Gentle Jess Sit Down Startf7A ***87
177The Groovef7A+ 51
178Infidelf7A 34
179The Mongrel Mobf7A+ 44
180Poodle Traversef6A *127
181Poodle Traverse (Footless)f6C+ *33
182Low Downf7A **4
183Great White Starkef6A **61
184Starke Attackf6A *40
185Made By Magicf7C 7
186Mr Magicf7C+ ***11
187The Magic Catf7B **10
188Riding Hannahf7A 49
189The Honey Potf6C+ 101
190Fat Cat Rooff7C ***79
191Fat Cat Directf7C+ *3
192Fat Cats Roof + Taylor Madef7C+ 12
193Fat Cat Roof + Fyfe Extensionf7C 7
194Taylor Madef7B+ *33
195Taylor Made Eliminatef7C **7
196Taylor Made Footlessf8A 4
197Paul Walkerf7C 2
198Nectarf7C 2
199Strayf7B 3
200The Blessingf7A 48
201The Blessing + Fyfe Extensionf7A *9
202Shamuf7B+ **20
203The Life of Fyfef7B+ ***59
204Life Of Fyfe Originalf7C ***9
205The Riotf7C+ ***20
206The Carpenters Apprenticef8A+ 4
207Salukif7B+ **30
208Sultan Of Swingf7B+ **2
209Launch Padf6C ***95
210Launch Pad (LH)f7A *53
211Launch Pad Crack Startf7A+ 8
212Stonedf7A *29
213Anthillf7A 14
214Chasing the Tailf6B 12
215Shiny Beastf7A+ 14
 Kennelgarth Bouldering Traverses 
217The Wrath of Achillesf7C **9
218Lowlifef7C+ **6
219Body Catf7C+ 4
220Checkpoint Charlief7C+ *1
221Throbbin's Traversef8A 5
222Body Wisdomf8A **1
223Wife of Fyfef8A+ ***7
224Low Wifef8A **1
 River Blocs Bouldering 
226Goonies Aretef6A 4
227Green Fingersf5+ 6
228Devolutionf4+ 4
229Solution Traversef5 3
230Pollutionf5+ 2
231Pauls Aretef6C+ *4
232Gut Lordf5+ 5
233Pauls Problemf6C 5
234Evolutionf7A+ ***20
235Revolutionf6C+ *6
236Illiminutionf7A **3
237Oh Heavanf4+ *1
238Shangri-Laf5+ *1
 Main Crag Bouldering 
240Dog Nutf6C+ **8
241Return of the Midgetsf5 3
242Saturday Shufflef4+ 4
243Roof Warriorf5 3
244Tiny Handsf5+ 3
245Goodbye Gary Goodtimesf7A *2
246Rampant Rabbit Returnf6C+ *4
247Awesome Shedf7B+ *13
248Awesome Shed Directf7B+ *7
249 Mega Ten Originalf7C+ **3
250Mega Ten Reclimbedf8A **3
251Boy Racerf7C **25
252Jet Bluef7C **12
253Butch Cassidyf8A ***8
254Jed Blackf8A ***4
255Berlin Sit Startf6C+ *23
256How Soon Is Nowf7B **2
257The SSf7B *2
258Dash berlinf7C **2
259Kim JongV3 7
260The Sharp Cereal ConfessorV3 6
 Silver Surfer Area Bouldering 
262Upperboat Manf6A ***2
263Go with the flowf6B *1
264Berlin reich handf7A *3
 Unknown / unverified 
266Skinny Dog direct *f7A+ **2
267Kick the dog next door *E2 5c 1
268Continental touch *E1 5b  
269Torrents Of Spring *E3 5c 1
270Torrent Direct *A0 1
271Black fox *E4 6b  
272Running blind *E4 6b  
273Cool hand fluke *E3 5c 1
274SWBG Route 2 *V0- 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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