Climbs 270
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces all

Paul Fleuriot on Les Voyageurs © Sam Simpson

Crag features

Along with its neighbouring islands, this is one of the best rock climbing destinations in Britain, as well as one of the most remote. Big, steep cliffs of immaculate gneiss in a stunning location, with some smaller crags as well.

Although plenty of lower grade climbs do exist, it is generally recommended to be leading or at least pushing E2 in order to access the best of the place.

Approach notes

The island can be accessed privately by boat.

The island has been uninhabited since 1912 and is now owned by the National Trust. There is a good camping area next to the National Trust building above the bay on the east side of the island.

Access to some sectors (Guarsay Mor, Dun Mingulay) requires 100m abseil ropes. Some of the bigger unclimbed cliffs would require even longer ropes.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Geo an Droma - South Face 
2Audience in the Wings
-
E2 5c **11
3Nematocyst
-
E5 6b ***4
4The Waiting Game
-
E1 5b *4
5The Mad Professor
-
E2 6a *1
6Raining Puffins
-
E2 5b *3
 Geo an Droma - East Face 
8Paata-Ruadh
-
VS 4a *3
9Duibheineach
-
S 4b *2
10Calm at Sunset, Calm at Dawn
-
E1 5a * 
11Feel the Fear and Do It Anyway
-
VS 4c **4
12Machashaw
-
S 4a *2
13Fluorescent Jellyfish
-
VD *2
14The ChapVD 1
15Un-namedVS 4c 1
16Desperately Clinging OnVS 5a 1
17The PianoHS 4b *1
18Whisky Drinkers DestinyHS 4b **1
 Geo an Droma - North Face 
20Faithers FlakieS 4b *1
21Mithers BuldgieHS 4b *1
 Waterfall Geo 
23Island Madness
-
HVS 5a *7
24Flysheet Minch Cossing
-
VS 5a *1
25Gneiss Slot
-
VD *2
26Very V Diff
-
S 4a 3
27Dressed to the Left
-
VD * 
28Not so Diff
-
HS 4b 7
29Wandering Soul
-
VD **5
30Anticipatory Diffness
-
VD  
31Dressed to the Right
-
S 4a **7
 Ard Nan Capuill 
33Slob and Slag Go Climbing Part 1
-
VS 4c 1
34Like it or Limpet
-
E2 5b 1
 Creag Dhearg - Left Wall 
36The ScreamE6 6b **2
37K & S SpecialE6 6a ***9
38Dream the Dhearg GochE6 6b *** 
39Ocean VoyeurE5 6a **4
40Variations on a DreamE5 6a ***7
 Creag Dhearg - Upper Right Wall 
42Little Miss Sitting PrettyE5 6a ***16
43Big Chief Turning BullE4 6a ***20
44Fulmar SquawE3 5c ***20
45The Road to NowhereE3 5c **5
 Creag Dhearg - Summit Wall 
47MoonshadowE6 6b ***1
 Wee Geo - Ryan's Wall, Guarsay Beag 
49Squeeze out another oneE2 5c *1
50Turd CompressorHVS 4c 2
51Forcing Bid
-
S 4a *1
52Lord of the Isles
-
E4 6a 1
 Shag's Point 
54From the hole to heaven
-
VS 4c **8
55Pecking Order
-
VS 4c **2
56Derek the ShamanVS 4c 1
57Condemned to HappinessVS 5a **8
58The Wine Box NomadsVS 4c **6
 West Face of Shag's Point 
60Scragging ShagsE1 5a **1
61The ScreamerHVS 5a  
 Black Geo 
63Journey to Ixtlan
-
E5 6a **3
64Depth ChargeVS 5a **2
 Guarsay Mor - The Boulevard 
66One Luxury ItemE1 5b 1
67Soggy Chalk
-
S 4a * 
68Aqualung
-
S 4a *1
69Man Overboard
-
HVS 5a *1
70Port Pillar
-
HVS 5a 11
71Oh No, Norman's Due Back Tomorrow!
-
E3 6a ***5
72Haunt of Seals
-
E2 5c **5
73Under the Pink
-
E1 5b *32
74Oh No, Archie's Going Round in Circles!
-
HVS 5a **16
75Okeanos
-
E2 5c ***58
76A Word With the Bill
-
E3 5c ***28
77Ossian Boulevard
-
E2 5b **32
78Hill You Hoe
-
E3 6a **6
79The Mushroom of my Fear
-
E3 6a **5
80Longships
-
E4 6a **11
81Crystal Daze
-
E3 6a ***7
82Precious Days
-
E5 6a **5
83Taxing Macphee
-
E2 5c ***48
84Lost Souls
-
E4 6a ***22
85Swimming to America (Direct Start)
-
E2 5b *1
86Swimming to America
-
E4 6b ***12
87Sruth na Fir Gorm
-
E5 6b **2
88Save our SolesE5 6b **4
 Guarsay Mor - West Face 
90Entebbe Sailing Club
-
VS 4c * 
91The Grass is Singing
-
HVS 5a * 
92Hoon Bird
-
S 4a * 
93Alzheimer's Groove
-
HVS 5a **2
94No Puke HereVS 4a **3
95Guanomala City
-
VS 4c  
96Grey Rib
-
S 4a **2
97Poet's Corner
-
S 4a ** 
 Guarsay Mor - Big Arch 
99The Fowler
-
VS 4c *2
100Thin Man
-
VS 4c * 
101Blood on the Rocks
-
VS 4c * 
102Two Men in a Boat
-
VD *1
103McCall of the Wild
-
VS 4c ***9
104The Arch Deacon
-
HVS 5a ***55
105Razorbill Roofs
-
E1 5b **14
 Guarsay Mor - The Arena 
107Arch Angel
-
HVS 5a *** 
108The Breach
-
HVS 5a **2
109Cuan a' Cheo
-
HVS 5a * 
110Ken in the Fire
-
HVS 5b * 
111Fulmars for EffortHVS 5a ** 
112Swine FluHVS 5a *1
 Guarsay Mor - South Pillar 
114Wake Up and Smell the Guano
-
HVS 5a  
115Shooting Star
-
E1 5b ** 
116Mayday
-
E1 5b ***5
117Pavement Pizza
-
E2 5c ***1
118Fisherman's Blues
-
HVS 5a *1
119Stugeron
-
HVS 4c 2
120Pressure Band
-
HVS 5a **2
121Bill Oddie Eat Your Heart Out
-
E1 5b * 
122Conspiracy TheoryE1 5b 3
123GuantasticE1 5b *2
 Guarsay Mor - Undercut Wall 
125Rayburnt
-
E4 6a ***3
126Burning Desire
-
E5 6b *** 
127The Ocean of TimeE5 6a ***3
128The Secret's OutE5 6a ***3
129Taking the Hump
-
E5 6a *** 
 Guarsay Mor - Cobweb Wall 
131Bird is the WordE4 5c **2
132Bikini Dreams
-
E3 5c ***8
133Cuan a Bochan
-
E1 5b ***6
134Itsy Bitsy Spider
-
HVS 5a ***2
135Salvaged
-
HVS 5a *1
136Bill's Yellow Edge
-
HVS 5b *1
137Arger SanctionE4 6a ** 
138White Hot SpiderE4 6a ** 
139Too Young For A GinghiE1 5b ***2
 Arnamul Promontory 
141Lament To The Abyss
-
E1 5b **1
142Mingulay Magic
-
E1 5b **1
143Arnamul Instincts
-
E3 5c **1
144Pass the Razor Bill
-
E3 5c **1
145Kraken's Gullet
-
E2 5b * 
146The Wretched GullE1 5b 1
147The Fulmar MontyE3 5c  
148Arnamul MagicE2 5b  
149The Green Eyed Dragon SlayersE1 5b  
150Marvo the MagicianE2 5b  
151The Black Dyke AffairHVS 5a  
152Friends with the ArnamulsVS 4c * 
 Dun Mingulay 
154Pain au ChocolatE3 5c **1
155Children of Tempest
-
E1 5c *3
156The Great Shark Hunt
-
E4 5c **1
157Ride the Monster
-
E4 6a **3
158Perfect MonstersE7 6b ***3
159Ray of Light
-
E4 5c ***12
160Les Voyageurs
-
E3 5c ***9
161Searching in the SunE4 6a ** 
162The Lobster Men
-
E3 5c ***5
163Voyage of FaithE3 5c ***82
164The Ocean of Air Finish
-
E4 6a ***3
165The Hurried PathE3 5c ***19
166The Silk RouteE3 5c **4
167SulaE2 5b ***123
168Sula (Direct Start)E3 5c ***2
169The SilkieE3 6a ***33
170Ribbed for Her Pleasure
-
E3 5c *1
171Call of the SeaE3 5c ***28
172Last Call (Call of the Sea Alternative Start)
-
E4 6a ***2
173SirensE3 5c ***15
174Paranoia (Sirens start)E4 6a ***2
175Perfectly Normal ParanoiaE6 6b ***3
176Where's Paranoia?
-
E3 5c *** 
177Subterranean Exposure
-
E5 6b ** 
178Rory Rum The Story ManE5 6a ***11
179Big Kenneth
-
E5 6a ***22
180Wee CraigE5 6a ***2
181Little K
-
E3 6a ***5
182Where's Rory?
-
E3 5c ***2
183Dun Moaning
-
E2 5b **1
184Dun Moaning Alternative Finish
-
E4 6a **1
185Dunne Slimmin'E2 5b **2
186Done Mingulay
-
E2 5b **4
187Yob and Yag Go Climbing Part 3
-
E1 5b *1
188Fifteen Fathoms of FearS 4a ***4
189A Few Fathoms More
-
VS 4c *2
190Storm Warning
-
E2 5c * 
191Storm Warning (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c * 
192The Scottish Play
-
E3 6a * 
193The SwellE4 6a *** 
 Sloc Heisegeo 
195Eagle GravyE1 4c 1
196Morning GloryE1 5b * 
197Pot of GoldE2 5b *** 
 Seal Song Geo 
199Spitting FuryE6 6b **1
200The Girl With Extraordinary Eyes
-
E3 6a **1
201Delayed Reaction
-
E1 5c **1
202Fergus Sings the Blues
-
E4 6a **1
203The Girl in the Boat
-
E4 6a **1
204The Sun Has Got His Hat On
-
E3 5c **1
205The Trusted ScallopE2 5c * 
 The Point 
207Eaglesea
-
VS 4c **1
208Flyaway
-
VS 4c **2
209Cracknan Euan
-
VS 4c ***1
210Rubha Soul
-
E2 5b 1
 Geirum Walls - Hidden Wall 
212The Gull Who Shagged Me
-
E3 5c ***5
213Whipsplash
-
E4 6b *** 
214Sunnyside Up
-
VS 5a ** 
215Over Easy
-
VD  
 Geirum Walls - The Platform Wall 
217Crooked Thumb
-
VS 4c *1
218Corner and Slab
-
VS 5a *3
219Lunar Pull
-
VS 5a **2
220Pocket Wall
-
E1 5b *1
221The Abyss of Numbers
-
E2 5c *2
222Hopalong Howett
-
E1 5b  
223Let Things Go
-
E2 5b * 
224Obvious Crack
-
E3 5c * 
225Horizontal Hamish
-
E1 5b * 
226Dr Cassidy And The Stanley KidHVS 5a ***1
 Geirum Walls - The Main Walls 
228Junior Keel
-
E4 6b ** 
229Seriously Twitching
-
VS 4c *5
230Bonxie AreteE1 5b *1
231The Crack that Tim Forgot
-
E2 5c **5
232Big Sea in My Trousers
-
E2 5b **4
233The Singing Seal
-
E1 5b *10
234Screaming Seal
-
HVS 4c *5
235Try the Shark Fin Soup
-
VS 4c **7
236After the Basking Shark
-
S 4a *3
237The Curious Grey
-
VS 4b *2
238Beagles above the Shitehouse
-
VS 4b **6
239Eagles above the Lighthouse
-
VS 4c *1
240First Time for EveryoneHVS 5a *4
241Snooked for a Crack
-
VS 4c *5
242Confidence Booster
-
HS 4b * 
243Crisis of Confidence
-
S 4a *3
244The Old Man and the Sea
-
HVS 5a *7
245Wise Crack
-
E1 5b *1
246Sunshine All Day
-
HVS 5a * 
247Super Crack
-
E1 5b *4
248E1ish CracksE1 5b  
249Black Crack
-
HVS 5a * 
250Sealed with a Kiss
-
E3 6a **1
251Sealed with a Kiss (Dwarf Variation)
-
E2 5c *1
252Seal Clubbing
-
E1 5c *1
253Under the Boardwalk
-
E2 5c *6
254Evening Sun
-
E1 5c *1
255On the Beach
-
E1 5c *1
256Hawaiian Tropic
-
VS 4c **9
257Mesajanier
-
E3 6a * 
258Water Babies
-
E2 5c **5
259Land BabyE2 5c **2
260Mary Doune
-
E1 5b ***18
261Double Walrus
-
HVS 5a *3
262Alan's Route
-
HVS 5a *1
263The Sirens of Mingulay
-
E2 5c *1
264Underseal
-
E2 6a * 
265Calling Seal
-
E3 6a ** 
266Fringe Elements
-
VS 4c * 
 Geirum Walls - far eastern walls 
268The Corner
-
S 4a 1
269You Are Being Watched
-
HS 4b  
270Mingulay Blazers
-
S 4a  
271High and Dry
-
VS 5a  
272Frodo's Frenzy
-
HVS 5a ** 
273The Tide Waits for No Man
-
E2 5c * 
274My Gull's Mad at Me
-
VS 4c  
275Happy Landings
-
HVS 5a  
276Arc ArsenalE1 5b *** 
 DWS Crag 
278Dave's RouteF5+ * 
279L'Arete D'AmourF6a+ ***4
280Pwll Deri (Poofter eh?)F6c+ *** 
281Spearing the Bearded ClamF6a+ **1
282Way DownF5+ 2
283Pete's RouteF6a+ *1
284Tidy LikeF6b+ ***1
285Traverse InF6a **2
286Traverse In (Low)
-
F6a+ ** 
287Digging a Watery Grave
-
E4 6a *1
288Come for the skag stay for the craic7a ** 

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