Climbs 270
Rocktype Gneiss
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces all

Paul Fleuriot on Les Voyageurs © Sam Simpson

Crag features

Along with its neighbouring islands, this is one of the best rock climbing destinations in Britain, as well as one of the most remote. Big, steep cliffs of immaculate gneiss in a stunning location, with some smaller crags as well.

Although plenty of lower grade climbs do exist, it is generally recommended to be leading or at least pushing E2 in order to access the best of the place.

Approach notes

The island can be accessed privately by boat.

The island has been uninhabited since 1912 and is now owned by the National Trust. There is a good camping area next to the National Trust building above the bay on the east side of the island.

Access to some sectors (Guarsay Mor, Dun Mingulay) requires 100m abseil ropes. Some of the bigger unclimbed cliffs would require even longer ropes.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Geo an Droma - South Face 
2Audience in the Wings
-
E2 5c **11
3Nematocyst
-
E5 6b ***4
4The Waiting Game
-
E1 5b *4
5The Mad Professor
-
E2 6a *1
6Raining Puffins
-
E2 5b *3
 Geo an Droma - East Face 
8Paata-Ruadh
-
VS 4a *3
9Duibheineach
-
S 4b *2
10Calm at Sunset, Calm at Dawn
-
E1 5a * 
11Feel the Fear and Do It Anyway
-
VS 4c **4
12Machashaw
-
S 4a *2
13Fluorescent Jellyfish
-
VD *2
14The ChapVD 1
15Un-namedVS 4c 1
16Desperately Clinging OnVS 5a 1
17The PianoHS 4b *1
18Whisky Drinkers DestinyHS 4b **1
 Geo an Droma - North Face 
20Faithers FlakieS 4b *1
21Mithers BuldgieHS 4b *1
 Waterfall Geo 
23Island Madness
-
HVS 5a *7
24Flysheet Minch Cossing
-
VS 5a *1
25Gneiss Slot
-
VD *2
26Very V Diff
-
S 4a 3
27Dressed to the Left
-
VD * 
28Not so Diff
-
HS 4b 7
29Wandering Soul
-
VD **5
30Anticipatory Diffness
-
VD  
31Dressed to the Right
-
S 4a **7
 Ard Nan Capuill 
33Slob and Slag Go Climbing Part 1
-
VS 4c 1
34Like it or Limpet
-
E2 5b 1
 Creag Dhearg - Left Wall 
36The Horror BeneathE1 5a *1
37The ScreamE6 6b **2
38K & S SpecialE6 6a ***9
39Dream the Dhearg GochE6 6b *** 
40Ocean VoyeurE5 6a **4
41Variations on a DreamE5 6a ***7
 Creag Dhearg - Upper Right Wall 
43The Deathly HushE3 5c **1
44Little Miss Sitting PrettyE5 6a ***16
45Big Chief Turning BullE4 6a ***20
46Fulmar SquawE3 5c ***23
47The Road to NowhereE3 5c **5
 Creag Dhearg - Summit Wall 
49MoonshadowE6 6b ***1
 Wee Geo - Ryan's Wall, Guarsay Beag 
51Squeeze out another oneE2 5c *1
52Turd CompressorHVS 4c 2
53Forcing Bid
-
S 4a *1
54Lord of the Isles
-
E4 6a 1
 Shag's Point 
56From the hole to heaven
-
VS 4c **8
57Pecking Order
-
VS 4c **2
58Derek the ShamanVS 4c 1
59Condemned to HappinessVS 5a **8
60The Wine Box NomadsVS 4c **6
 West Face of Shag's Point 
62Scragging ShagsE1 5a **1
63The ScreamerHVS 5a  
 Black Geo 
65Journey to Ixtlan
-
E5 6a **3
66Depth ChargeVS 5a **2
 Guarsay Mor - The Boulevard 
68One Luxury ItemE1 5b 1
69Soggy Chalk
-
S 4a * 
70Aqualung
-
S 4a *1
71Man Overboard
-
HVS 5a *1
72Port Pillar
-
HVS 5a 11
73Oh No, Norman's Due Back Tomorrow!
-
E3 6a ***5
74Haunt of Seals
-
E2 5c **6
75Under the Pink
-
E1 5b *35
76Oh No, Archie's Going Round in Circles!
-
HVS 5a **17
77Okeanos
-
E2 5c ***64
78A Word With the Bill
-
E3 5c ***31
79Ossian Boulevard
-
E2 5b **35
80Hill You Hoe
-
E3 6a **6
81The Mushroom of my Fear
-
E3 6a **5
82Longships
-
E4 6a **11
83Crystal Daze
-
E3 6a ***10
84Precious Days
-
E5 6a **6
85Taxing Macphee
-
E2 5c ***53
86Lost Souls
-
E4 6a ***22
87Swimming to America (Direct Start)
-
E2 5b *1
88Swimming to America
-
E4 6b ***12
89Sruth na Fir Gorm
-
E5 6b **2
90Save our SolesE5 6b **4
 Guarsay Mor - West Face 
92Entebbe Sailing Club
-
VS 4c * 
93The Grass is Singing
-
HVS 5a * 
94Hoon Bird
-
S 4a * 
95Alzheimer's Groove
-
HVS 5a **2
96No Puke HereVS 4a **3
97Guanomala City
-
VS 4c  
98Grey Rib
-
S 4a **2
99Poet's Corner
-
S 4a ** 
 Guarsay Mor - Big Arch 
101The Fowler
-
VS 4c *2
102Thin Man
-
VS 4c * 
103Blood on the Rocks
-
VS 4c * 
104Two Men in a Boat
-
VD *1
105McCall of the Wild
-
VS 4c ***9
106The Arch Deacon
-
HVS 5a ***69
107Razorbill Roofs
-
E1 5b **16
 Guarsay Mor - The Arena 
109Arch Angel
-
HVS 5a *** 
110The Breach
-
HVS 5a **2
111Cuan a' Cheo
-
HVS 5a * 
112Ken in the Fire
-
HVS 5b * 
113Fulmars for EffortHVS 5a ** 
114Swine FluHVS 5a *1
 Guarsay Mor - South Pillar 
116Wake Up and Smell the Guano
-
HVS 5a  
117Shooting Star
-
E1 5b ** 
118Mayday
-
E1 5b ***5
119Pavement Pizza
-
E2 5c ***1
120Fisherman's Blues
-
HVS 5a *1
121Stugeron
-
HVS 4c 2
122Pressure Band
-
HVS 5a **2
123Bill Oddie Eat Your Heart Out
-
E1 5b * 
124Conspiracy TheoryE1 5b 3
125GuantasticE1 5b *2
 Guarsay Mor - Undercut Wall 
127Rayburnt
-
E4 6a ***3
128Burning Desire
-
E5 6b *** 
129The Ocean of TimeE5 6a ***3
130The Secret's OutE5 6a ***3
131Taking the Hump
-
E5 6a *** 
 Guarsay Mor - Cobweb Wall 
133Bird is the WordE4 5c **2
134Bikini Dreams
-
E3 5c ***8
135Cuan a Bochan
-
E1 5b ***6
136Itsy Bitsy Spider
-
HVS 5a ***2
137Salvaged
-
HVS 5a *1
138Bill's Yellow Edge
-
HVS 5b *1
139Arger SanctionE4 6a ** 
140White Hot SpiderE4 6a ** 
141Too Young For A GinghiE1 5b ***2
 Arnamul Promontory 
143Lament To The Abyss
-
E1 5b **1
144Mingulay Magic
-
E1 5b **1
145Arnamul Instincts
-
E3 5c **1
146Pass the Razor Bill
-
E3 5c **1
147Kraken's Gullet
-
E2 5b * 
148The Wretched GullE1 5b 1
149The Fulmar MontyE3 5c  
150Arnamul MagicE2 5b  
151The Green Eyed Dragon SlayersE1 5b  
152Marvo the MagicianE2 5b  
153The Black Dyke AffairHVS 5a  
154Friends with the ArnamulsVS 4c * 
 Dun Mingulay 
156Pain au ChocolatE3 5c **1
157Children of Tempest
-
E1 5c *3
158The Great Shark Hunt
-
E4 5c **1
159Ride the Monster
-
E4 6a **3
160Perfect MonstersE7 6b ***3
161Ray of Light
-
E4 5c ***16
162Les Voyageurs
-
E3 5c ***9
163Searching in the SunE4 6a ** 
164The Lobster Men
-
E3 5c ***5
165Voyage of FaithE3 5c ***83
166The Ocean of Air Finish
-
E4 6a ***3
167The Hurried PathE3 5c ***19
168The Silk RouteE3 5c **4
169SulaE2 5b ***128
170Sula (Direct Start)E3 5c ***2
171The SilkieE3 6a ***34
172Ribbed for Her Pleasure
-
E3 5c *1
173Call of the SeaE3 5c ***28
174Last Call (Call of the Sea Alternative Start)
-
E4 6a ***2
175Oceanside ExpeditionE4 5c ***1
176SirensE3 5c ***15
177Paranoia (Sirens start)E4 6a ***2
178Perfectly Normal ParanoiaE6 6b ***3
179Where's Paranoia?
-
E3 5c *** 
180Subterranean Exposure
-
E5 6b ** 
181Rory Rum The Story ManE5 6a ***12
182Big Kenneth
-
E5 6a ***22
183Wee CraigE5 6a ***2
184Little K
-
E3 6a ***5
185Where's Rory?
-
E3 5c ***2
186Dun Moaning
-
E2 5b **1
187Dun Moaning Alternative Finish
-
E4 6a **1
188Dunne Slimmin'E2 5b **2
189Done Mingulay
-
E2 5b **4
190Yob and Yag Go Climbing Part 3
-
E1 5b *3
191Fifteen Fathoms of FearS 4a ***4
192A Few Fathoms More
-
VS 4c *2
193Storm Warning
-
E2 5c * 
194Storm Warning (Direct Finish)
-
E2 5c * 
195The Scottish Play
-
E3 6a * 
196The SwellE4 6a *** 
 Sloc Heisegeo 
198Eagle GravyE1 4c 1
199Morning GloryE1 5b * 
200Pot of GoldE2 5b *** 
 Seal Song Geo 
202Spitting FuryE6 6b **1
203The Girl With Extraordinary Eyes
-
E3 6a **1
204Delayed Reaction
-
E1 5c **1
205Fergus Sings the Blues
-
E4 6a **1
206The Girl in the Boat
-
E4 6a **1
207The Sun Has Got His Hat On
-
E3 5c **1
208The Trusted ScallopE2 5c * 
 The Point 
210Eaglesea
-
VS 4c **1
211Flyaway
-
VS 4c **2
212Cracknan Euan
-
VS 4c ***1
213Rubha Soul
-
E2 5b 1
 Geirum Walls - Hidden Wall 
215The Gull Who Shagged Me
-
E3 5c ***5
216Whipsplash
-
E4 6b *** 
217Sunnyside Up
-
VS 5a ** 
218Over Easy
-
VD  
 Geirum Walls - The Platform Wall 
220Crooked Thumb
-
VS 4c *1
221Corner and Slab
-
VS 5a *3
222Lunar Pull
-
VS 5a **2
223Pocket Wall
-
E1 5b *1
224The Abyss of Numbers
-
E2 5c *2
225Hopalong Howett
-
E1 5b  
226Let Things Go
-
E2 5b * 
227Obvious Crack
-
E3 5c * 
228Horizontal Hamish
-
E1 5b * 
229Dr Cassidy And The Stanley KidHVS 5a ***1
 Geirum Walls - The Main Walls 
231Junior Keel
-
E4 6b ** 
232Seriously Twitching
-
VS 4c *5
233Bonxie AreteE1 5b *2
234The Crack that Tim Forgot
-
E2 5c **5
235Big Sea in My Trousers
-
E2 5b **4
236The Singing Seal
-
E1 5b *13
237Screaming Seal
-
HVS 4c *5
238Try the Shark Fin Soup
-
VS 4c **7
239After the Basking Shark
-
S 4a *3
240The Curious Grey
-
VS 4b *2
241Beagles above the Shitehouse
-
VS 4b **7
242Eagles above the Lighthouse
-
VS 4c *1
243First Time for EveryoneHVS 5a *5
244Snooked for a Crack
-
VS 4c *5
245Confidence Booster
-
HS 4b * 
246Crisis of Confidence
-
S 4a *3
247The Old Man and the Sea
-
HVS 5a *8
248Wise Crack
-
E1 5b *2
249Sunshine All Day
-
HVS 5a *1
250Super Crack
-
E1 5b *5
251E1ish CracksE1 5b  
252Black Crack
-
HVS 5a * 
253Sealed with a Kiss
-
E3 6a **2
254Sealed with a Kiss (Dwarf Variation)
-
E2 5c *1
255Seal Clubbing
-
E1 5c *2
256Under the Boardwalk
-
E2 5c *6
257Evening Sun
-
E1 5c *1
258On the Beach
-
E1 5c *1
259Hawaiian Tropic
-
VS 4c **9
260Mesajanier
-
E3 6a * 
261Water Babies
-
E2 5c **5
262Land BabyE2 5c **2
263Mary Doune
-
E1 5b ***20
264Double Walrus
-
HVS 5a *3
265Alan's Route
-
HVS 5a *1
266The Sirens of Mingulay
-
E2 5c *1
267Underseal
-
E2 6a * 
268Calling Seal
-
E3 6a ** 
269Fringe Elements
-
VS 4c * 
 Geirum Walls - far eastern walls 
271The Corner
-
S 4a 1
272You Are Being Watched
-
HS 4b  
273Mingulay Blazers
-
S 4a  
274High and Dry
-
VS 5a  
275Frodo's Frenzy
-
HVS 5a ** 
276The Tide Waits for No Man
-
E2 5c * 
277My Gull's Mad at Me
-
VS 4c  
278Happy Landings
-
HVS 5a  
279Arc ArsenalE1 5b *** 
 DWS Crag 
281(Not Another) Northumberland WallE4 6a **1
282Dave's RouteF5+ * 
283L'Arete D'AmourF6a+ ***4
284Pwll Deri (Poofter eh?)F6c+ *** 
285Spearing the Bearded ClamF6a+ **1
286Way DownF5+ 2
287Pete's RouteF6a+ *1
288Tidy LikeF6b+ ***1
289Traverse InF6a **2
290Traverse In (Low)
-
F6a+ ** 
291Digging a Watery Grave
-
E4 6a *1
292Come for the skag stay for the craic7a ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles