Mingulay

Climbs 270 – Rocktype Gneiss – Altitude 1m a.s.l – Faces all

Crag features

Along with its neighbouring islands, this is one of the best rock climbing destinations in Britain, as well as one of the most remote. Big, steep cliffs of immaculate gneiss in a stunning location, with some smaller crags as well.


Although plenty of lower grade climbs do exist, it is generally recommended to be leading or at least pushing E2 in order to access the best of the place.

Approach notes

The island can be accessed privately by boat.

The island has been uninhabited since 1912 and is now owned by the National Trust. There is a good camping area next to the National Trust building above the bay on the east side of the island.

Access to some sectors (Guarsay Mor, Dun Mingulay) requires 100m abseil ropes. Some of the bigger unclimbed cliffs would require even longer ropes.

Guidebooks
Scottish Rock - North (2009)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
 GEO AN DROMA - SOUTH FACE  
2Audience in the WingsE2 5c **11
3NematocystE5 6b ***4
4The Waiting GameE1 5b *4
5The Mad ProfessorE2 6a *1
6Raining PuffinsE2 5b *3
 GEO AN DROMA - EAST FACE  
8Paata-RuadhVS 4a *3
9DuibheineachS 4b *2
10Calm at Sunset, Calm at DawnE1 5a * 
11Feel the Fear and Do It AnywayVS 4c **4
12MachashawS 4a *2
13Fluorescent JellyfishVD *2
14The ChapVD 1
15Un-namedVS 4c 1
16Desperately Clinging OnVS 5a 1
17The PianoHS 4b *1
18Whisky Drinkers DestinyHS 4b **1
 GEO AN DROMA - NORTH FACE  
20Faithers FlakieS 4b *1
21Mithers BuldgieHS 4b *1
 WATERFALL GEO  
23Island MadnessHVS 5a *7
24Flysheet Minch CossingVS 5a *1
25Gneiss SlotVD *2
26Very V DiffS 4a 3
27Dressed to the LeftVD * 
28Not so DiffHS 4b 7
29Wandering SoulVD **5
30Anticipatory DiffnessVD  
31Dressed to the RightS 4a **7
 ARD NAN CAPUILL  
33Slob and Slag Go Climbing Part 1VS 4c 1
34Like it or LimpetE2 5b 1
 CREAG DHEARG - LEFT WALL  
36The ScreamE6 6b **2
37K & S SpecialE6 6a ***9
38Dream the Dhearg GochE6 6b *** 
39Ocean VoyeurE5 6a **4
40Variations on a DreamE5 6a ***7
 CREAG DHEARG - UPPER RIGHT WALL  
42Little Miss Sitting PrettyE5 6a ***15
43Big Chief Turning BullE4 6a ***19
44Fulmar SquawE3 5c ***19
45The Road to NowhereE3 5c **5
 CREAG DHEARG - SUMMIT WALL  
47MoonshadowE6 6b ***1
 WEE GEO - RYAN'S WALL, GUARSAY BEAG  
49Squeeze out another oneE2 5c *1
50Turd CompressorHVS 4c 2
51Forcing BidS 4a *1
52Lord of the IslesE4 6a 1
 SHAG'S POINT  
54From the hole to heavenVS 4c **8
55Pecking OrderVS 4c **2
56Derek the ShamanVS 4c 1
57Condemned to HappinessVS 5a **8
58The Wine Box NomadsVS 4c **6
 WEST FACE OF SHAG'S POINT  
60Scragging ShagsE1 5a **1
61The ScreamerHVS 5a  
 BLACK GEO  
63Journey to IxtlanE5 6a **3
64Depth ChargeVS 5a **2
 GUARSAY MOR - THE BOULEVARD  
66One Luxury ItemE1 5b 1
67Soggy ChalkS 4a * 
68AqualungS 4a *1
69Man OverboardHVS 5a *1
70Port PillarHVS 5a 11
71Oh No, Norman's Due Back Tomorrow!E3 6a ***5
72Haunt of SealsE2 5c **5
73Under the PinkE1 5b *31
74Oh No, Archie's Going Round in Circles!HVS 5a **13
75OkeanosE2 5c ***57
76A Word With the BillE3 5c ***28
77Ossian BoulevardE2 5b **31
78Hill You HoeE3 6a **6
79The Mushroom of my FearE3 6a **5
80LongshipsE4 6a **10
81Crystal DazeE3 6a ***6
82Precious DaysE5 6a **5
83Taxing MacpheeE2 5c ***47
84Lost SoulsE4 6a ***21
85Swimming to America (Direct Start)E2 5b *1
86Swimming to AmericaE4 6b ***11
87Sruth na Fir GormE5 6b **2
88Save our SolesE5 6b **4
 GUARSAY MOR - WEST FACE  
90Entebbe Sailing ClubVS 4c * 
91The Grass is SingingHVS 5a * 
92Hoon BirdS 4a * 
93Alzheimer's GrooveHVS 5a **2
94No Puke HereVS 4a **3
95Guanomala CityVS 4c  
96Grey RibS 4a **2
97Poet's CornerS 4a ** 
 GUARSAY MOR - BIG ARCH  
99The FowlerVS 4c *2
100Thin ManVS 4c * 
101Blood on the RocksVS 4c * 
102Two Men in a BoatVD *1
103McCall of the WildVS 4c ***9
104The Arch DeaconHVS 5a ***53
105Razorbill RoofsE1 5b **14
 GUARSAY MOR - THE ARENA  
107Arch AngelHVS 5a *** 
108The BreachHVS 5a **2
109Cuan a' CheoHVS 5a * 
110Ken in the FireHVS 5b * 
111Fulmars for EffortHVS 5a ** 
112Swine FluHVS 5a *1
 GUARSAY MOR - SOUTH PILLAR  
114Wake Up and Smell the GuanoHVS 5a  
115Shooting StarE1 5b ** 
116MaydayE1 5b ***5
117Pavement PizzaE2 5c ***1
118Fisherman's BluesHVS 5a *1
119StugeronHVS 4c 2
120Pressure BandHVS 5a **2
121Bill Oddie Eat Your Heart OutE1 5b * 
122Conspiracy TheoryE1 5b 3
123GuantasticE1 5b *2
 GUARSAY MOR - UNDERCUT WALL  
125RayburntE4 6a ***3
126Burning DesireE5 6b *** 
127The Ocean of TimeE5 6a ***3
128The Secret's OutE5 6a ***3
129Taking the HumpE5 6a *** 
 GUARSAY MOR - COBWEB WALL  
131Bird is the WordE4 5c **2
132Bikini DreamsE3 5c ***8
133Cuan a BochanE1 5b ***6
134Itsy Bitsy SpiderHVS 5a ***2
135SalvagedHVS 5a *1
136Bill's Yellow EdgeHVS 5b *1
137Arger SanctionE4 6a ** 
138White Hot SpiderE4 6a ** 
139Too Young For A GinghiE1 5b ***1
 ARNAMUL PROMONTORY  
141Lament To The AbyssE1 5b **1
142Mingulay MagicE1 5b **1
143Arnamul InstinctsE3 5c **1
144Pass the Razor BillE3 5c **1
145Kraken's GulletE2 5b * 
146The Wretched GullE1 5b 1
147The Fulmar MontyE3 5c  
148Arnamul MagicE2 5b  
149The Green Eyed Dragon SlayersE1 5b  
150Marvo the MagicianE2 5b  
151The Black Dyke AffairHVS 5a  
152Friends with the ArnamulsVS 4c * 
 DUN MINGULAY  
154Pain au ChocolatE3 5c **1
155Children of TempestE1 5c *3
156The Great Shark HuntE4 5c **1
157Ride the MonsterE4 6a **3
158Perfect MonstersE7 6b ***3
159Ray of LightE4 5c ***12
160Les VoyageursE3 5c ***9
161Searching in the SunE4 6a ** 
162The Lobster MenE3 5c ***5
163Voyage of FaithE3 5c ***82
164The Ocean of Air FinishE4 6a ***3
165The Hurried PathE3 5c ***19
166The Silk RouteE3 5c **4
167SulaE2 5b ***101
168Sula (Direct Start)E3 5c ***2
169The SilkieE3 6a ***33
170Ribbed for Her PleasureE3 5c *1
171Call of the SeaE3 5c ***28
172Last Call (Call of the Sea Alternative Start)E4 6a ***2
173SirensE3 5c ***15
174Paranoia (Sirens start)E4 6a ***2
175Perfectly Normal ParanoiaE6 6b ***3
176Where's Paranoia?E3 5c *** 
177Subterranean ExposureE5 6b ** 
178Rory Rum The Story ManE5 6a ***11
179Big KennethE5 6a ***22
180Wee CraigE5 6a ***2
181Little KE3 6a ***4
182Where's Rory?E3 5c ***2
183Dun MoaningE2 5b **1
184Dun Moaning Alternative FinishE4 6a **1
185Dunne Slimmin'E2 5b **2
186Done MingulayE2 5b **4
187Yob and Yag Go Climbing Part 3E1 5b *1
188Fifteen Fathoms of FearS 4a ***4
189A Few Fathoms MoreVS 4c *2
190Storm WarningE2 5c * 
191Storm Warning (Direct Finish)E2 5c * 
192The Scottish PlayE3 6a * 
193The SwellE4 6a *** 
 SLOC HEISEGEO  
195Eagle GravyE1 4c 1
196Morning GloryE1 5b * 
197Pot of GoldE2 5b *** 
 SEAL SONG GEO  
199Spitting FuryE6 6b **1
200The Girl With Extraordinary EyesE3 6a **1
201Delayed ReactionE1 5c **1
202Fergus Sings the BluesE4 6a **1
203The Girl in the BoatE4 6a **1
204The Sun Has Got His Hat OnE3 5c **1
205The Trusted ScallopE2 5c * 
 THE POINT  
207EagleseaVS 4c **1
208FlyawayVS 4c **2
209Cracknan EuanVS 4c ***1
210Rubha SoulE2 5b 1
 GEIRUM WALLS - HIDDEN WALL  
212The Gull Who Shagged MeE3 5c ***5
213WhipsplashE4 6b *** 
214Sunnyside UpVS 5a ** 
215Over EasyVD  
 GEIRUM WALLS - THE PLATFORM WALL  
217Crooked ThumbVS 4c *1
218Corner and SlabVS 5a *3
219Lunar PullVS 5a **2
220Pocket WallE1 5b *1
221The Abyss of NumbersE2 5c *2
222Hopalong HowettE1 5b  
223Let Things GoE2 5b * 
224Obvious CrackE3 5c * 
225Horizontal HamishE1 5b * 
226Dr Cassidy And The Stanley KidHVS 5a ***1
 GEIRUM WALLS - THE MAIN WALLS  
228Junior KeelE4 6b ** 
229Seriously TwitchingVS 4c *5
230Bonxie AreteE1 5b *1
231The Crack that Tim ForgotE2 5c **5
232Big Sea in My TrousersE2 5b **4
233The Singing SealE1 5b *10
234Screaming SealHVS 4c *5
235Try the Shark Fin SoupVS 4c **7
236After the Basking SharkS 4a *3
237The Curious GreyVS 4b *2
238Beagles above the ShitehouseVS 4b **5
239Eagles above the LighthouseVS 4c *1
240First Time for EveryoneHVS 5a *4
241Snooked for a CrackVS 4c *4
242Confidence BoosterHS 4b * 
243Crisis of ConfidenceS 4a *3
244The Old Man and the SeaHVS 5a *7
245Wise CrackE1 5b *1
246Sunshine All DayHVS 5a * 
247Super CrackE1 5b *4
248E1ish CracksE1 5b  
249Black CrackHVS 5a * 
250Sealed with a KissE3 6a **1
251Sealed with a Kiss (Dwarf Variation)E2 5c *1
252Seal ClubbingE1 5c *1
253Under the BoardwalkE2 5c *6
254Evening SunE1 5c *1
255On the BeachE1 5c *1
256Hawaiian TropicVS 4c **8
257MesajanierE3 6a * 
258Water BabiesE2 5c **5
259Land BabyE2 5c **2
260Mary DouneE1 5b ***17
261Double WalrusHVS 5a *3
262Alan's RouteHVS 5a *1
263The Sirens of MingulayE2 5c *1
264UndersealE2 6a * 
265Calling SealE3 6a ** 
266Fringe ElementsVS 4c * 
 GEIRUM WALLS - FAR EASTERN WALLS  
268The CornerS 4a 1
269You Are Being WatchedHS 4b  
270Mingulay BlazersS 4a  
271High and DryVS 5a  
272Frodo's FrenzyHVS 5a ** 
273The Tide Waits for No ManE2 5c * 
274My Gull's Mad at MeVS 4c  
275Happy LandingsHVS 5a  
276Arc ArsenalE1 5b *** 
 DWS CRAG  
278Dave's RouteF5+ * 
279L'Arete D'AmourF6a+ ***4
280Pwll Deri (Poofter eh?)F6c+ *** 
281Spearing the Bearded ClamF6a+ **1
282Way DownF5+ 2
283Pete's RouteF6a+ *1
284Tidy LikeF6b+ ***1
285Traverse InF6a **2
286Traverse In (Low)F6a+ ** 
287Digging a Watery GraveE4 6a *1
288Come for the skag stay for the craic7a ** 
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Andy Moles

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
There are no comments from visitors to this crag.