Climbs 112
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 313m a.s.l
Faces NW

Rogues 1 © Mark Davis

Crag features

Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Approach notes

From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
Mark Davis - 27/Aug/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1More LiceVS 4c 6
2Maul IceS 12
3Noviciate(morlais)
-
S s 11
4Hawthorn WallS 4a 6
5Pull Through
-
S 32
6Parting Company
-
S 17
7Greenmantle
-
HVS 5a 7
8T.A.P.
-
VD 7
9Old friends
-
VD 12
10Terminal Arete
-
VD 12
11Cave RouteD 7
12Badger Violation CaveD *9
 Great Wall 
14Batman ReturnsE2 5c *2
15To The BatmobileHVS 5b **18
16Grace Under PressureE1 5b *7
17PhobiaE1 5b *26
18The Rattling FinishE2 5c 8
19Blade RunnerE3 5c **14
20Rogues GalleryE6 6c *2
21Morlais In A Tramps VestE5 6a *2
22No MercyE7 6c **2
23Partners in CrimeE5 6c **2
24Fly AreteHS 47
25Massascent Groove
-
VD *87
26Ledge Way
-
VD 44
27Eliminate Slab
-
HVS 4b 14
28Tiptoe
-
S *38
29SpectacleVD *27
30Serpent
-
VD *25
31Lost Groove
-
D 13
32Two Corners
-
VD *33
33S.T.E.PS 30
34Top Cat
-
S 72
 Castle Bay 
36Name Game
-
HS 4a 23
37Great Corner
-
S *91
38Castle Wall
-
VS 4b *91
39Arisk
-
VS 4b 33
40By The Tips Of Your Toes *E1 5b **1
41Wall CracksHVS 5a *23
42Harry The Spiders Comeing Out PartyE3 6a 3
43Dirty Corner
-
M 21
44Sixtees Groove
-
VD 16
45Easy Route
-
M 25
46Rocks like the Rockies
-
S 10
47Gripshift
-
HS 4b 9
48S.T.E.P.
-
S 23
49Fork Left
-
VS 4c 17
50Fork RightS 4a 14
51Snuff Stuff
-
VS 4b 4
52green cornerVD 10
53Busy Bee
-
HS hs 5
54Philanderer
-
VS 4c 18
55Evening Gem
-
E4 6a *1
56Evening Gem (Direct Finish)
-
E4 6a 1
57Flake Crack
-
VD 19
58Tree Corner
-
S 48
59Split Buttress
-
VD 21
60Grease Monkey
-
VD 43
61Groovy
-
S 42
62Griptight
-
HS 4b 16
63Blockhead
-
S 25
64gripfix
-
HS 4b 19
65Sixties Groove
-
VD 7
66BYPASS
-
D 6
67GutsVS 4b 4
68The Sickle
-
VS 4c *4
69Oxo
-
VS 10
70Wall StreetE1 5a *8
71Bahama CrisisE1 5b 5
72CerebellumHVS 5b ***16
73Compact
-
VS 4b 3
74Gallery
-
VS 4b 5
75Tap
-
VD 2
76Massacent Groove
-
VD 13
77Gold Medal
-
VS 4b 7
78Elastic
-
VS 4b 7
79Extension
-
HVS 5a 4
80After dinner crack
-
VS 4b 4
 The Padawans Wall 
82PadawanE4 6b *3
83TerminatorE3 6a *2
 THE BOULDERING 
85The Tower Of Powerf6B+ *4
86Left of Dirty CornerVD 2
87Fairy stepsVD 3
88CerebelumHVS 5a *1
89khamil RhougeE2 6a 1
90Central GrooveS 4
91Midge Attack!none 5c 2
92Windy
-
HVS 5b 4
93BreezingE1 5b 1
94Eliminate
-
4c ***1
95Lost Grove
-
D 1
96HiccupHVS 4c **1
97DeliveryHVS 4c 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MorganPreece