Morlais Quarries

Climbs 112 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 313m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Access notes
From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

Gower & South-East Wales (2004), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1More LiceVS 4c 6
2Maul IceS 12
3Noviciate(morlais)S s 11
4Hawthorn WallS 4a 6
5Pull ThroughS 30
6Parting CompanyS 17
7GreenmantleHVS 5a 7
8T.A.P.VD 6
9Old friendsVD 10
10Terminal AreteVD 11
11Cave RouteD 7
12Badger Violation CaveD *9
14Batman ReturnsE2 5c *1
15To The BatmobileHVS 5b **13
16Grace Under PressureE1 5b *6
17PhobiaE1 5b *23
18The Rattling FinishE2 5c 7
19Blade RunnerE3 5c **10
20Rogues GalleryE6 6c *2
21No MercyE7 6c **2
22Partners in CrimeE5 6c **1
23Fly AreteHS 37
24Massascent GrooveVD *64
25Ledge WayVD 35
26Eliminate SlabHVS 4b 11
27TiptoeS *30
28SpectacleVD *23
29SerpentVD *22
30Lost GrooveD 11
31Two CornersVD *30
32S.T.E.PS 25
33Top CatS 64
35Name GameHS 4a 18
36Great CornerS *71
37Castle WallVS 4b *81
38AriskVS 4b 32
39By The Tips Of Your Toes *E1 5b **1
40Wall CracksHVS 5a *20
41Harry The Spiders Comeing Out PartyE3 6a 1
42Dirty CornerM 18
43Sixtees GrooveVD 15
44Easy RouteM 21
45Rocks like the RockiesS 10
46GripshiftHS 4b 9
47S.T.E.P.S 22
48Fork LeftVS 4c 12
49Fork RightS 4a 12
50Snuff StuffVS 4b 4
51green cornerVD 10
52Busy BeeHS hs 5
53PhilandererVS 4c 17
54Evening GemE4 6a * 
55Evening Gem (Direct Finish)E4 6a 1
56Flake CrackVD 17
57Tree CornerS 43
58Split ButtressVD 19
59Grease MonkeyVD 39
60GroovyS 37
61GriptightHS 4b 16
62BlockheadS 23
63gripfixHS 4b 19
64Sixties GrooveVD 6
66GutsVS 4b 4
67The SickleVS 4c *3
68OxoVS 9
69Wall StreetE1 5a *6
70Bahama CrisisE1 5b 4
71CerebellumHVS 5b ***13
72CompactVS 4b 2
73GalleryVS 4b 4
74TapVD 1
75Massacent GrooveVD 10
76Gold MedalVS 4b 4
77ElasticVS 4b 6
78ExtensionHVS 5a 4
79After dinner crackVS 4b 4
81PadawanE4 6b *1
82TerminatorE3 6a *1
84The Tower Of Powerf6B+ *1
85Left of Dirty CornerVD 2
86Fairy stepsVD 3
87CerebelumHVS 5a * 
88khamil RhougeE2 6a 1
89Central GrooveS 4
90Midge Attack!none 5c 2
91WindyHVS 5b 3
92BreezingE1 5b 1
93Eliminate 4c ***1
94Lost Grove *D 1
95Hiccup *HVS 4c **1
96Morlais in a tramps vest *E5 6a *1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MorganPreece

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
The Pylon King - 27/Aug/12
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 15/Dec/2009

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