Morlais Quarries

Climbs 112 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 313m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Access notes
From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
1More LiceVS 4c
2Maul IceS
3Noviciate(morlais)S s
4Hawthorn WallS 4a
5Pull ThroughS
6Parting CompanyS
7GreenmantleHVS 5a
8T.A.P.VD
9Old friendsVD
10Terminal AreteVD
11Cave RouteD
12Badger Violation CaveD *
 GREAT WALL 
14Batman ReturnsE2 5c *
15To The BatmobileHVS 5b **
16Grace Under PressureE1 5b *
17PhobiaE1 5b *
18The Rattling FinishE2 5c
19Blade RunnerE3 5c **
20Rogues GalleryE6 6c *
21Morlais In A Tramps VestE5 6a *
22No MercyE7 6c **
23Partners in CrimeE5 6c **
24Fly AreteHS
25Massascent GrooveVD *
26Ledge WayVD
27Eliminate SlabHVS 4b
28TiptoeS *
29SpectacleVD *
30SerpentVD *
31Lost GrooveD
32Two CornersVD *
33S.T.E.PS
34Top CatS
 CASTLE BAY 
36Name GameHS 4a
37Great CornerS *
38Castle WallVS 4b *
39AriskVS 4b
40By The Tips Of Your Toes *E1 5b **
41Wall CracksHVS 5a *
42Harry The Spiders Comeing Out PartyE3 6a
43Dirty CornerM
44Sixtees GrooveVD
45Easy RouteM
46Rocks like the RockiesS
47GripshiftHS 4b
48S.T.E.P.S
49Fork LeftVS 4c
50Fork RightS 4a
51Snuff StuffVS 4b
52green cornerVD
53Busy BeeHS hs
54PhilandererVS 4c
55Evening GemE4 6a *
56Evening Gem (Direct Finish)E4 6a
57Flake CrackVD
58Tree CornerS
59Split ButtressVD
60Grease MonkeyVD
61GroovyS
62GriptightHS 4b
63BlockheadS
64gripfixHS 4b
65Sixties GrooveVD
66BYPASSD
67GutsVS 4b
68The SickleVS 4c *
69OxoVS
70Wall StreetE1 5a *
71Bahama CrisisE1 5b
72CerebellumHVS 5b ***
73CompactVS 4b
74GalleryVS 4b
75TapVD
76Massacent GrooveVD
77Gold MedalVS 4b
78ElasticVS 4b
79ExtensionHVS 5a
80After dinner crackVS 4b
 THE PADAWANS WALL 
82PadawanE4 6b *
83TerminatorE3 6a *
 THE BOULDERING 
85The Tower Of Powerf6B+ *
86Left of Dirty CornerVD
87Fairy stepsVD
88CerebelumHVS 5a *
89khamil RhougeE2 6a
90Central GrooveS
91Midge Attack!none 5c
92WindyHVS 5b
93BreezingE1 5b
94Eliminate 4c ***
95Lost Grove *D
96Hiccup *HVS 4c **
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MorganPreece

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
The Pylon King - 27/Aug/12
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 15/Dec/2009

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Cardiff, CARDIFF
Dedicated centre.
"2,000 square meters of climbing walls. Over 100 lead climbing lines. Dedicated bouldering area, including bouldering cave. Instruction and climbing activities for all ages and..."
bouldersuk.com