Morlais Quarries

Climbs 112 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 313m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Access notes
From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGrade
1More LiceVS 4c 6
2Maul IceS 12
3Noviciate(morlais)S s 11
4Hawthorn WallS 4a 6
5Pull ThroughS 30
6Parting CompanyS 17
7GreenmantleHVS 5a 7
8T.A.P.VD 6
9Old friendsVD 10
10Terminal AreteVD 11
11Cave RouteD 7
12Badger Violation CaveD *9
 GREAT WALL  
14Batman ReturnsE2 5c *1
15To The BatmobileHVS 5b **13
16Grace Under PressureE1 5b *6
17PhobiaE1 5b *23
18The Rattling FinishE2 5c 7
19Blade RunnerE3 5c **10
20Rogues GalleryE6 6c *2
21Morlais In A Tramps VestE5 6a *1
22No MercyE7 6c **2
23Partners in CrimeE5 6c **1
24Fly AreteHS 37
25Massascent GrooveVD *66
26Ledge WayVD 35
27Eliminate SlabHVS 4b 11
28TiptoeS *30
29SpectacleVD *23
30SerpentVD *22
31Lost GrooveD 11
32Two CornersVD *31
33S.T.E.PS 25
34Top CatS 64
 CASTLE BAY  
36Name GameHS 4a 18
37Great CornerS *71
38Castle WallVS 4b *81
39AriskVS 4b 32
40By The Tips Of Your Toes *E1 5b **1
41Wall CracksHVS 5a *20
42Harry The Spiders Comeing Out PartyE3 6a 1
43Dirty CornerM 18
44Sixtees GrooveVD 15
45Easy RouteM 21
46Rocks like the RockiesS 10
47GripshiftHS 4b 9
48S.T.E.P.S 22
49Fork LeftVS 4c 12
50Fork RightS 4a 12
51Snuff StuffVS 4b 4
52green cornerVD 10
53Busy BeeHS hs 5
54PhilandererVS 4c 17
55Evening GemE4 6a * 
56Evening Gem (Direct Finish)E4 6a 1
57Flake CrackVD 17
58Tree CornerS 43
59Split ButtressVD 19
60Grease MonkeyVD 39
61GroovyS 37
62GriptightHS 4b 16
63BlockheadS 23
64gripfixHS 4b 19
65Sixties GrooveVD 6
66BYPASSD 6
67GutsVS 4b 4
68The SickleVS 4c *3
69OxoVS 9
70Wall StreetE1 5a *6
71Bahama CrisisE1 5b 4
72CerebellumHVS 5b ***13
73CompactVS 4b 2
74GalleryVS 4b 4
75TapVD 1
76Massacent GrooveVD 10
77Gold MedalVS 4b 4
78ElasticVS 4b 6
79ExtensionHVS 5a 4
80After dinner crackVS 4b 4
 THE PADAWANS WALL  
82PadawanE4 6b *1
83TerminatorE3 6a *1
 THE BOULDERING  
85The Tower Of Powerf6B+ *1
86Left of Dirty CornerVD 2
87Fairy stepsVD 3
88CerebelumHVS 5a * 
89khamil RhougeE2 6a 1
90Central GrooveS 4
91Midge Attack!none 5c 2
92WindyHVS 5b 3
93BreezingE1 5b 1
94Eliminate 4c ***1
95Lost Grove *D 1
96Hiccup *HVS 4c **1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MorganPreece

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - 27/Aug/12
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 15/Dec/2009
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