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[ Print larger map ] – Grid Ref SO 047098 (OS Landranger #160)

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These details were last updated on 15/Dec/2009

Morlais Quarries

Merthyr Tydfil, WALES

Climbs 112 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 313m a.s.l – Faces NW

Crag features
Routes up to 33m. Popular with teaching groups (you are warned). A fine selection of routes, including Phobia (E1 5b), To The Batmoblie(HVS 5b) and a prime first lead Massascent Groove (VD).

Also a wide range of bouldering on lower tier.

There is even a few Highball boulder problems like Harry The Spiders Comeing Out Party (E3)

Weather forecast

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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
More: Met Office: Brecon Beacons

Guidebooks
Gower & South-East Wales (2004), Gower & SE Wales (1991)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
1More LiceVS 4c 6
2Maul IceS 10
3Noviciate(morlais)S s 7
4Hawthorn WallS 4a 6
5Pull ThroughS 27
6Parting CompanyS 16
7GreenmantleHVS 5a 7
8T.A.P.VD 6
9Old friendsVD 9
10Terminal AreteVD 10
11Cave RouteD 6
12Badger Violation CaveD *8
 GREAT WALL  
14Batman ReturnsE2 5c *1
15To The BatmobileHVS 5b **12
16Grace Under PressureE1 5b *6
17PhobiaE1 5b *18
18The Rattling FinishE2 5c 5
19Blade RunnerE3 5c **1
20Rogues GalleryE6 6c *1
21No MercyE7 6c **1
22Partners in CrimeE5 6c ** 
23Fly AreteHS 26
24Massascent GrooveVD *50
25Ledge WayVD 30
26Eliminate SlabHVS 4b 10
27TiptoeS *22
28SpectacleVD *20
29SerpentVD *21
30Lost GrooveD 10
31Two CornersVD *28
32S.T.E.PS 22
33Top CatS 54
 CASTLE BAY  
35Name GameHS 4a 17
36Great CornerS *59
37Castle WallVS 4b *67
38AriskVS 4b 25
39Wall CracksHVS 5a *16
40Harry The Spiders Comeing Out PartyE3 6a 1
41Dirty CornerM 16
42Sixtees GrooveVD 15
43Easy RouteM 17
44Rocks like the RockiesS 8
45GripshiftHS 4b 7
46S.T.E.P.S 21
 Climb nameGradex
47Fork LeftVS 4c 11
48Fork RightS 4a 9
49Snuff StuffVS 4b 4
50green cornerVD 9
51Busy BeeHS hs 5
52PhilandererVS 4c 14
53Evening GemE4 6a * 
54Evening Gem (Direct Finish)E4 6a 1
55Flake CrackVD 16
56Tree CornerS 34
57Split ButtressVD 18
58Grease MonkeyVD 34
59GroovyS 31
60GriptightHS 4b 16
61BlockheadS 19
62gripfixHS 4b 18
63Sixties GrooveVD 6
64BYPASSD 6
65GutsVS 4b 4
66The SickleVS 4c *2
67OxoVS 8
68Wall StreetE1 5a *3
69Bahama CrisisE1 5b 2
70CerebellumHVS 5b ***9
71CompactVS 4b 2
72GalleryVS 4b 4
73TapVD 1
74Massacent GrooveVD 9
75Gold MedalVS 4b 3
76ElasticVS 4b 6
77ExtensionHVS 5a 3
78After dinner crackVS 4b 4
 THE PADAWANS WALL  
80PadawanE4 6b *1
81TerminatorE3 6a *1
 THE BOULDERING  
83The Tower Of Powerf6B+ *1
84Left of Dirty CornerVD 2
85Fairy stepsVD 3
86CerebelumHVS 5a * 
87khamil RhougeE2 6a  
88Central GrooveS 2
89Midge Attack!none 5c 2
90WindyHVS 5b 1
91By The Tips Of Your Toes *E1 5b **1

* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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Access notes
From the A465 head for a T junction (OS ref ST 049 092) where a track joins an unclassed road. Over the road a gate takes an old tram road running N along the hillside. Follow this for 5 mins.

Be aware that cars parked here are subject to vandalism, breakins etc as the broken windscreen on the road will testify. It's best to park down the road next to the pub and walk in from there.

Or (from the SW or N): leave A470 or A465, join road along Taf Fechan valley. Follow for 2.5mi to the Aberglais pub, continue 200m uphill to Pont sarn pub. Park in car park opposite.

Descend to disused railway line and cross viaduct, and up steep bank to middle of quarry.

Empty your car - there have been many thefts.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MorganPreece ?

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
An interesting crag with a pleasant open outlook. There are a lot of scrappy lower grade routes here and some polish but there are also some excellent sheer walls with good routes and slabby stuff of good high friction rock. The idiot organised groups use the middle tier and they are trashing it. If you see them there tell them to bugger off.
The Pylon King ? - 27/Aug/12