Climbs 153
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

.Fatntastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Western Crag 
2Spangle TextureVS 4b 5
3In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a  
4Raw Energy
-
E2 5c * 
5Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9Just Taking A GanderE1 5b 3
10Kite
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E1 5b 2
11Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
12Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
13Christmas CrackerHVS 4c 6
14Christmas HangoverHS 4b 14
15Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
16Wazzock
-
HVS 5a 11
17Now Your Goose Is Cooked
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HVS 5a 3
18Sauce For The Goose
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HVS 5b 4
19Goose Step
-
VS 4b 4
 Twinkle Buttress 
21Pillock
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VS 4c *12
22Twinkle
-
D 26
23Route 1
-
D 22
24SinestroS 4a *3
25Canute
-
VD 21
26Canute Right Hand
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HVS 5a 11
27AstrobrainE6 6b * 
 Fools Fantasy 
29LeprechaunE1 5b *5
30Fool's Fantasy
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E5 6a 1
31Wipeout
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E4 5c 4
32Right Little Raver
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E5 6b 1
33Nyth
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E3 6a 2
34Disneyworld
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E6 6c 1
35Pluto
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VS 4c **67
 Popular End and Elephant Wall 
37Open Invitation
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E5 6b 1
38Finger Print
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E4 6a **11
39Brothers In Arms
-
E6 6b 1
40Abbey Road
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HVS 5a ***40
41Roof Of The World
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E5 6c 1
42The Gremlin
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E1 5a *17
43The Arrow
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E2 5c **11
44Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
45MauritaniaE5 6b * 
46Megalopolis
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E1 5b **11
47Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 5
48Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 1
49Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a **3
50Jumping Jack Flash
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E1 5c *7
51Griffin
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E3 6a 3
52Pinnochio
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HVS 4c ***74
53Exposure Explosion
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HVS 5a ***190
54Easy Livin'
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E3 5c **8
55Wave Band
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E2 5b *23
56Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a *15
57Elephant WallVS 4b *50
58Elephant Wall (Direct Finish)VS 5a *8
 Tusker Chimney Area 
60Mind Probe
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E2 5b *11
61Wet LookHVS 4c *2
62Tusker Chimney
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HVS 5a **3
63FlyoverE3 5c *1
64Domestic Bliss
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E1 5b 2
65Domestic Responsibility
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E2 5c *3
66Flash Harry
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HS 4a **67
67Yorkshire Pud
-
S 16
68Mordred
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HVS 4c 9
69tim's RouteVD *6
 Scutch Buttress 
71The Dribbling Douh WhatHVS 4c 2
72Scutch
-
HVS 5b 9
 Tiger Bay 
74Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 2
75Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 5
76Total Eclipse of the Sun
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E8 6b  
77A Bigger SplashE3 5c ***5
 Sorcery Wall 
79The Uncanny DirectE6 6c ***1
80The UncannyE6 6c *** 
81Worn Out SupermanE6 6b ** 
82Spellbinder
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E4 6a ***2
 Fire Wall 
84Fury
-
E3 5c 1
85Burn 'Em Up
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E5 6b 3
86Fire
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E3 5c **11
87The KnaveE3 5c * 
88Well BlessedE3 5b *1
 The Castle Area 
90The Bishop
-
HVS 4c *5
91Cone Country
-
HVS 5a *3
92Bute Street
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E3 5b 4
93Spring Tide
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E2 5b **8
94Low Ebb
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E3 5c **9
95PoseidonHVS 5a ***10
96Poseidon Direct Finish
-
E1 5a 1
97Beyond PoseidonE2 5b 1
98The CastleVS 4b 1
 The Biscuit 
100Wafer ThinE2 5c 1
101Cream CrackersE5 5a,5c **1
102Information RecievedE4 5a,5c *1
103Here TodayE3 5b,5b 1
104Mother EarthE2 5a **1
105Sleepless NightsE4 5c 1
106Best Of FriendsE2 5a 1
107FloozieXS 4b/c  
108Suspended SentenceE4 5c 1
109No ReprieveE3 5c 1
110Have MercyE4 6a  
111QuimbleVS 4b 2
112Goodnight CowboyE2 5b 1
113Ultra VirusE4 6a * 
114Last BuckE2 5b  
115Trusty BladeE2 5b 1
 Davy Jones' Locker 
117Fast LuckE2 5b *3
118Mindfuck6b+ ***2
119Made in Maes Cwn6c+ ***4
120Skullthuggery7b ***1
121Cure for the Cancer7b+ ***1
122Superstitious?7a ***5
123Twenty First Century7a ***1
124These Dangerous Seas6b+ ***1
125Fast ReactionsE2 5b *2
126The Hatch
-
HS 4a *6
127Here Comes The RainVS 4c 3
128Cold Steel
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E2 5c 1
129Ogmore OlympicsE2 5c 3
130One Cool VibeE3 5c  
131GlycogenE1 5a ***22
132Brain WaneE3 5b **2
133PhaserE3 5c ***14
134Whatever NextE5 5c  
135Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 5
136Fashoda Chimney
-
VD *8
137General GordonVS 5
138A Tale of High AdventureVS 4b 4
139Lady JaneHVS 4a,4c 4
140Norwegian WoodE2 5b 2
141Black LooksE5 5c *1
142Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
143FalsityE2 5b 2
144Sense of AdventureHVS 4b *1
145BlackjackVS 4b ***1
146PontoonVS 4c 1
147No Sense VentureVS 4b **3
148Capital VentureVS 4b ***1
149Joint VentureHVS 4c ***3
150WimawayHVS 4b * 
151The HunchbackE1 5a 2
152Night GamesE4 5c  
153To Mitzy A PupE4 6a ** 
154Two PeasE2 5a *1
155Against The GrainE3 5c 2
156Moonlight FlitE1 5b 3
157Via Normale
-
D 6
158L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 4
159Birthday BashMVS 4b  
160Overdue
-
VS 4b 7
161The Timely TrickE1 5b 2
162Tattered AdventurerHVS 5a ***2
163Another Christmas Tree AdventureVS 4c **2
164ArkleHVS 5a 1
165Becher's BrookVS 4b 1

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