Ogmore (Main)

Climbs 103 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, but not to be underrated. Routes up to 36m.

Access notes
Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.

Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.

Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

Guidebooks
Gower & SE Wales (1991), South Wales Mountaineering Club Wiki

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 THE WESTERN CRAG 
2Spangle TextureVS 4b
3Christmas CrackerHVS 4c
4Christmas HangoverHS 4b
5Strategic Zap AttackE3 6b
6WazzockHVS 5a
7Now Your Goose Is CookedHVS 5a
8Sauce For The GooseHVS 5b
9Goose StepVS 4b
 TWINKLE BUTTRESS 
11PillockVS 4c *
12TwinkleD
13Route 1D
14SinestroS 4a *
15CanuteVD
16Canute Right HandHVS 5a
 FOOLS FANTASY 
18LeprechaunE1 5b *
19Fool's FantasyE5 6a
20WipeoutE4 5c
21Right Little RaverE5 6b
22NythE3 6a
23DisneyworldE6 6c
24PlutoVS 4c **
 POPULAR END AND ELEPHANT WALL 
26Open InvitationE5 6b
27Finger PrintE4 6a **
28Brothers In ArmsE6 6b
29Abbey RoadHVS 5a ***
30Roof Of The WorldE5 6c
31The GremlinE1 5a *
32The ArrowE2 5c **
33MegalopolisE1 5b **
34Rat FinkHVS 4c
35Loaded QuestionE3 5c
36Implausible SuggestionE5 6a
37Jumping Jack FlashE1 5c *
38GriffinE3 6a
39PinnochioHVS 4c ***
40Exposure ExplosionHVS 5a ***
41Easy Livin'E3 5c **
42Wave BandE2 5b *
43Slime CrimeHVS 5a *
44Elephant WallVS 4b *
45Elephant Wall (Direct Finish)VS 5a *
 TUSKER CHIMNEY AREA 
47Tusker ChimneyHVS 5a **
48Mind ProbeE2 5b *
49Wet LookHVS 4c *
50Domestic BlissE1 5b
51Domestic ResponsibilityE2 5c *
52Flash HarryHS 4a **
53Yorkshire PudS
54MordredHVS 4c
55tim's RouteVD *
 SCUTCH BUTTRESS 
57The Dribbling Douh WhatHVS 4c
58ScutchHVS 5b
 TIGER BAY 
60Quick DrawE4 6a
61Siren DirectVS 4c
62Total Eclipse of the SunE8 6b
63A Bigger SplashE3 5c ***
 SORCERY WALL 
65The Uncanny DirectE6 6c ***
66The UncannyE6 6c ***
67SpellbinderE4 6a ***
 FIRE WALL 
69FuryE3 5c
70Burn 'Em UpE5 6b
71FireE3 5c **
 THE CASTLE AREA 
73The BishopHVS 4c *
74Cone CountryHVS 5a *
75Bute StreetE3 5b
76Spring TideE2 5b **
77Low EbbE3 5c **
78PoseidonHVS 5a ***
79The CastleVS 4b
 THE BISCUIT 
81QuimbleVS 4b
 DAVY JONES' LOCKER 
83Fast LuckE2 5b *
84Mindfuck6b+ ***
85Made in Maes Cwn6c+ ***
86Skullthuggery7b ***
87Cure for the Cancer7b+ ***
88Superstitious?7a ***
89Twenty First Century7a ***
90These Dangerous Seas6b+ ***
91Fast ReactionsE2 5b *
92The HatchHS 4a *
93Here Comes The RainVS 4c
94Cold SteelE2 5c
95Ogmore OlympicsE2 5c
96GlycogenE1 5a ***
97Brain WaneE3 5b **
98PhaserE3 5c ***
99Stray DogHVS 4c
100Fashoda ChimneyVD *
101General GordonVS
102A Tale of High AdventureVS 4b
103Lady JaneHVS 4a,4c
104Norwegian WoodE2 5b
105Spring FeverE3 5c
106FalsityE2 5b
107The HunchbackE1 5a
108Against The GrainE3 5c
109Moonlight FlitE1 5b
110Via NormaleD
111L'EscargotVS 4b
112Birthday BashMVS 4b
113OverdueVS 4b
114The Timely TrickE1 5b
115Just Taking A GanderE1 5b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer goi.ashmore

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 04/Jun/2012

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Bristol, AVON
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"750+ square metres of beautifully sculptured bouldering surface with 200+ problems in font style circuits, plus 3 different angled training boards and campus board. Great cafe area with..."
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