Climbs 151
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

.Fatntastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Western Crag 
2Spangle TextureVS 4b 5
3In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a  
4Raw Energy
-
E2 5c * 
5Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9Just Taking A GanderE1 5b 3
10Kite
-
E1 5b 2
11Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
12Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
13Christmas CrackerHVS 4c 6
14Christmas HangoverHS 4b 14
15Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
16Wazzock
-
HVS 5a 11
17Now Your Goose Is Cooked
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HVS 5a 3
18Sauce For The Goose
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HVS 5b 4
19Goose Step
-
VS 4b 4
 Twinkle Buttress 
21Pillock
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VS 4c *12
22Twinkle
-
D 26
23Route 1
-
D 22
24SinestroS 4a *3
25Canute
-
VD 21
26Canute Right Hand
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HVS 5a 11
27AstrobrainE6 6b * 
 Fools Fantasy 
29LeprechaunE1 5b *5
30Fool's Fantasy
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E5 6a 1
31Wipeout
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E4 5c 4
32Right Little Raver
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E5 6b 1
33Nyth
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E3 6a 2
34Disneyworld
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E6 6c 1
35Pluto
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VS 4c **67
 Popular End and Elephant Wall 
37Open Invitation
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E5 6b 1
38Finger Print
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E4 6a **11
39Brothers In Arms
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E6 6b 1
40Abbey Road
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HVS 5a ***40
41Roof Of The World
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E5 6c 1
42The Gremlin
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E1 5a *17
43The Arrow
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E2 5c **11
44Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
45MauritaniaE5 6b * 
46Megalopolis
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E1 5b **11
47Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 5
48Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 1
49Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a **3
50Jumping Jack Flash
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E1 5c *7
51Griffin
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E3 6a 3
52Pinnochio
-
HVS 4c ***74
53Exposure Explosion
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HVS 5a ***190
54Easy Livin'
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E3 5c **8
55Wave Band
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E2 5b *23
56Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a *14
57Elephant WallVS 4b *50
58Elephant Wall (Direct Finish)VS 5a *8
 Tusker Chimney Area 
60Tusker Chimney
-
HVS 5a **3
61Mind Probe
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E2 5b *11
62Wet LookHVS 4c *2
63Domestic Bliss
-
E1 5b 2
64Domestic Responsibility
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E2 5c *3
65Flash Harry
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HS 4a **67
66Yorkshire Pud
-
S 16
67Mordred
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HVS 4c 9
68tim's RouteVD *6
 Scutch Buttress 
70The Dribbling Douh WhatHVS 4c 2
71Scutch
-
HVS 5b 9
 Tiger Bay 
73Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 2
74Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 5
75Total Eclipse of the Sun
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E8 6b  
76A Bigger SplashE3 5c ***5
 Sorcery Wall 
78The Uncanny DirectE6 6c ***1
79The UncannyE6 6c *** 
80Worn Out SupermanE6 6b ** 
81Spellbinder
-
E4 6a ***2
 Fire Wall 
83Fury
-
E3 5c 1
84Burn 'Em Up
-
E5 6b 3
85Fire
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E3 5c **11
86The KnaveE3 5c * 
87Well BlessedE3 5b *1
 The Castle Area 
89The Bishop
-
HVS 4c *5
90Cone Country
-
HVS 5a *3
91Bute Street
-
E3 5b 4
92Spring Tide
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E2 5b **7
93Low Ebb
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E3 5c **8
94PoseidonHVS 5a ***10
95Poseidon Direct Finish
-
E1 5a 1
96Beyond PoseidonE2 5b 1
97The CastleVS 4b 1
 The Biscuit 
99Wafer ThinE2 5c 1
100Cream CrackersE5 5a,5c **1
101Information RecievedE4 5a,5c *1
102Here TodayE3 5b,5b 1
103Mother EarthE2 5a **1
104Sleepless NightsE4 5c 1
105Best Of FriendsE2 5a 1
106FloozieXS 4b/c  
107Suspended SentenceE4 5c 1
108No ReprieveE3 5c 1
109Have MercyE4 6a  
110QuimbleVS 4b 2
111Goodnight CowboyE2 5b 1
112Ultra VirusE4 6a * 
113Last BuckE2 5b  
114Trusty BladeE2 5b 1
 Davy Jones' Locker 
116Fast LuckE2 5b *3
117Mindfuck6b+ ***2
118Made in Maes Cwn6c+ ***4
119Skullthuggery7b ***1
120Cure for the Cancer7b+ ***1
121Superstitious?7a ***5
122Twenty First Century7a ***1
123These Dangerous Seas6b+ ***1
124Fast ReactionsE2 5b *2
125The Hatch
-
HS 4a *6
126Here Comes The RainVS 4c 3
127Cold Steel
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E2 5c 1
128Ogmore OlympicsE2 5c 3
129One Cool VibeE3 5c  
130GlycogenE1 5a ***22
131Brain WaneE3 5b **2
132PhaserE3 5c ***8
133Whatever NextE5 5c  
134Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 5
135Fashoda Chimney
-
VD *8
136General GordonVS 5
137A Tale of High AdventureVS 4b 4
138Lady JaneHVS 4a,4c 4
139Norwegian WoodE2 5b 1
140Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
141FalsityE2 5b 2
142Sense of AdventureHVS 4b *1
143BlackjackVS 4b ***1
144PontoonVS 4c 1
145No Sense VentureVS 4b **3
146Capital VentureVS 4b ***1
147Joint VentureHVS 4c ***3
148WimawayHVS 4b * 
149The HunchbackE1 5a 2
150Night GamesE4 5c  
151To Mitzy A PupE4 6a ** 
152Two PeasE2 5a *1
153Against The GrainE3 5c 2
154Moonlight FlitE1 5b 3
155Via Normale
-
D 6
156L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 4
157Birthday BashMVS 4b  
158Overdue
-
VS 4b 7
159The Timely TrickE1 5b 2
160Tattered AdventurerHVS 5a ***2
161Another Christmas Tree AdventureVS 4c **2
162ArkleHVS 5a 1
163Becher's BrookVS 4b 1

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