Climbs 149
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, but not to be underrated. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.

Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.

Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Western Crag 
2Spangle TextureVS 4b 5
3In Dispute With Nappy Rash
-
HVS 5a  
4Raw Energy
-
E2 5c * 
5Lipstick
-
E3 6a  
6Winchfactor Five
-
E2 5c  
7Chill Factor
-
HVS 5a  
8Side Step
-
VS 4b  
9Kite
-
E1 5b 2
10Swing Wing
-
E3 5c  
11Mighty Steel
-
E5 6c  
12Christmas CrackerHVS 4c 6
13Christmas HangoverHS 4b 13
14Strategic Zap Attack
-
E3 6b 1
15Wazzock
-
HVS 5a 11
16Now Your Goose Is Cooked
-
HVS 5a 3
17Sauce For The Goose
-
HVS 5b 4
18Goose Step
-
VS 4b 4
 Twinkle Buttress 
20Pillock
-
VS 4c *12
21Twinkle
-
D 26
22Route 1
-
D 21
23SinestroS 4a *3
24Canute
-
VD 21
25Canute Right Hand
-
HVS 5a 11
26AstrobrainE6 6b * 
 Fools Fantasy 
28LeprechaunE1 5b *5
29Fool's Fantasy
-
E5 6a 1
30Wipeout
-
E4 5c 4
31Right Little Raver
-
E5 6b 1
32Nyth
-
E3 6a 2
33Disneyworld
-
E6 6c 1
34Pluto
-
VS 4c **66
 Popular End and Elephant Wall 
36Open Invitation
-
E5 6b 1
37Finger Print
-
E4 6a **9
38Brothers In Arms
-
E6 6b 1
39Abbey Road
-
HVS 5a ***40
40Roof Of The World
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E5 6c 1
41The Gremlin
-
E1 5a *17
42The Arrow
-
E2 5c **10
43Titanic
-
E4 6a/b 1
44MauritaniaE5 6b * 
45Megalopolis
-
E1 5b **11
46Rat Fink
-
HVS 4c 5
47Loaded Question
-
E3 5c 1
48Implausible Suggestion
-
E5 6a **3
49Jumping Jack Flash
-
E1 5c *7
50Griffin
-
E3 6a 2
51Pinnochio
-
HVS 4c ***57
52Exposure Explosion
-
HVS 5a ***110
53Easy Livin'
-
E3 5c **8
54Wave Band
-
E2 5b *23
55Slime Crime
-
HVS 5a *14
56Elephant WallVS 4b *49
57Elephant Wall (Direct Finish)VS 5a *7
 Tusker Chimney Area 
59Tusker Chimney
-
HVS 5a **3
60Mind Probe
-
E2 5b *11
61Wet LookHVS 4c *2
62Domestic Bliss
-
E1 5b 2
63Domestic Responsibility
-
E2 5c *3
64Flash Harry
-
HS 4a **66
65Yorkshire Pud
-
S 15
66Mordred
-
HVS 4c 9
67tim's RouteVD *6
 Scutch Buttress 
69The Dribbling Douh WhatHVS 4c 2
70Scutch
-
HVS 5b 9
 Tiger Bay 
72Quick Draw
-
E4 6a 2
73Siren Direct
-
VS 4c 5
74Total Eclipse of the Sun
-
E8 6b  
75A Bigger SplashE3 5c ***5
 Sorcery Wall 
77The Uncanny DirectE6 6c ***1
78The UncannyE6 6c *** 
79Worn Out SupermanE6 6b ** 
80Spellbinder
-
E4 6a ***2
 Fire Wall 
82Fury
-
E3 5c 1
83Burn 'Em Up
-
E5 6b 3
84Fire
-
E3 5c **11
85The KnaveE3 5c * 
86Well BlessedE3 5b *1
 The Castle Area 
88The Bishop
-
HVS 4c *4
89Cone Country
-
HVS 5a *2
90Bute Street
-
E3 5b 2
91Spring Tide
-
E2 5b **6
92Low Ebb
-
E3 5c **4
93PoseidonHVS 5a ***7
94The CastleVS 4b 1
 The Biscuit 
96Wafer ThinE2 5c 1
97Cream CrackersE5 5a,5c **1
98Information RecievedE4 5a,5c *1
99Here TodayE3 5b,5b 1
100Mother EarthE2 5a **1
101Sleepless NightsE4 5c 1
102Best Of FriendsE2 5a 1
103FloozieXS 4b/c  
104Suspended SentenceE4 5c 1
105No ReprieveE3 5c 1
106Have MercyE4 6a  
107QuimbleVS 4b 2
108Goodnight CowboyE2 5b 1
109Ultra VirusE4 6a * 
110Last BuckE2 5b  
111Trusty BladeE2 5b 1
 Davy Jones' Locker 
113Fast LuckE2 5b *3
114Mindfuck6b+ ***2
115Made in Maes Cwn6c+ ***4
116Skullthuggery7b ***1
117Cure for the Cancer7b+ ***1
118Superstitious?7a ***5
119Twenty First Century7a ***1
120These Dangerous Seas6b+ ***1
121Fast ReactionsE2 5b *2
122The Hatch
-
HS 4a *6
123Here Comes The RainVS 4c 3
124Cold Steel
-
E2 5c 1
125Ogmore OlympicsE2 5c 3
126One Cool VibeE3 5c  
127GlycogenE1 5a ***22
128Brain WaneE3 5b **2
129PhaserE3 5c ***8
130Whatever NextE5 5c  
131Stray Dog
-
HVS 4c 5
132Fashoda Chimney
-
VD *8
133General GordonVS 5
134A Tale of High AdventureVS 4b 4
135Lady JaneHVS 4a,4c 4
136Norwegian WoodE2 5b 1
137Spring Fever
-
E3 5c 2
138FalsityE2 5b 2
139Sense of AdventureHVS 4b *1
140BlackjackVS 4b ***1
141PontoonVS 4c 1
142No Sense VentureVS 4b **3
143Capital VentureVS 4b ***1
144Joint VentureHVS 4c ***3
145WimawayHVS 4b * 
146The HunchbackE1 5a 2
147Night GamesE4 5c  
148To Mitzy A PupE4 6a ** 
149Two PeasE2 5a *1
150Against The GrainE3 5c 2
151Moonlight FlitE1 5b 3
152Via Normale
-
D 6
153L'Escargot
-
VS 4b 4
154Birthday BashMVS 4b  
155Overdue
-
VS 4b 7
156The Timely TrickE1 5b 2
157Just Taking A GanderE1 5b 3
158Tattered AdventurerHVS 5a ***2
159Another Christmas Tree AdventureVS 4c **2
160ArkleHVS 5a 1
161Becher's BrookVS 4b 1

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