Lonnen Quarry (aka Cleadon Quarry)

Climbs 51 – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 50m a.s.l – Faces SW

Crag features
A good bouldering/soloing area on the edge of some playing fields in South Shields.

The North of England Rock Climbs guidebook also describes Cleadon Crags near the old windmill. I searched it out on 11/9/07. Beware - it's not a place for shorts; forestry workers overalls would be better. The place is very overgrown and you can't top out most of the routes. It's also very small. Stick to Lonnen Quarry (and The Cove) in future!

21/03/10 - Just updated all the climbs that are possible. A lot of the place has been taken over by trees and bushes. Most of the routes you can top out except for Black butress. Top ropes are advisable as the top is very brittle (I've experienced this first hand by falling from the top onto my back, luckily I didn't land on a car battery or any other bits of rubbish that litters the place) - If you're not top roping I strongly recommend a pad!

I'm unsure on the grades - I have copied straight from the "North East Climbing" guidebook.

Went there yesterday and the harsh winter has killed a lot of the nasty vegetation!

A GOOD GUIDE CAN BE FOUND HERE - http://www.climbonline.co.uk/cleadon.htm

Access notes
Overlooks the football fields adjacent to Quarry Lane in South Shields, on the edge of the Cleadon Hills

A bit complicated to find. Heading E on the A194 to S Shieds, turn right onto John Reid road (A1300). Turn right at the roundabout with a clock in the middle and after 100 mtrs turn left immedaitely before the trees and go up the minor road with Cleadon Park on the right. After the school the crag will be seen on the right. Park at the houses 1m from the crag.

Guidebooks
North of England Rock Climbs (1992),
Out of print: North East England (2003)

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
  Climb nameGrade
 WHITE WALL 
2The AreteVB
3Small WallVB 4c
4Small CrackVB 4a
5Short WallV1 5b
6Short CrackVB 4b
7Left WallVB 4c *
8Central WallV2 5c
9Golden YearsV1 5b
10Central GrooveVB 4a
11Right Wall EliminateV3 6a *
12Right WallVB 4c ***
13Blunt BulgeV0 5a
14Original routeVB 4a **
15Hidden WallV1 5b
16DepressonVB 4b
17GroovelineVB 4c
18Pock wallVB 4b
19The cornerVB 4b
20Girdle TraversesV2 5a/5c
21ClitV2 5c *
22NaybrewV3 6a *
23Jug WallV3 6a
24Thin White CrackV2 5c **
 BLACK BUTTRESS 
26PatriarchV1 5b
27Chord CrackVB 4b
28The ImproviserV1 5b
29The SupervisorV2 5c
30The Supervisor Direct StartV4 6b
31The RatV0 5a *
32Black Wall GirdleV1 5b/6b **
33Ragged CrackVB 4c
34Left-Hand VariationVB 4b
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer David Bulley

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
More details can be found on www.climbonline.co.uk
Steve Crowe - 07/Mar/13
Going to visit Cleadon Quarry tommorow bout 12ish get some decent photos.
Bloomy - 18/Aug/11
Good bouldering, near to Newcastle and 25m from the road. Well worth a visit if in the area and at a loose end, especially if you also visit The Cove.
craig h - 02/Nov/07
The name of the crag is actually Cleadon Quarry and is a extremely useful and free traing wall.
L.G - 31/Dec/04
Underrated. It has a good bouldering section on the main wall. It does offer short climbs - a good fence at the top to tie in. Problem with vegetation underfoot and on top plus litter doesn't make it immediately appealing! I'll follow up with some pics.
Clive - 04/Oct/02
Do you have more up to date information?

These details were last updated on 07/Mar/2013
ads.ukclimbing.com

Photo Gallery

Directory

Find Listings near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)
Newcastle Upon Tyne, TYNE & WEAR
Dedicated centre.
"Dedicated bouldering centre on three floors. Main climbing area with over 6000 square feet of climbing surfaces and 200+ problems set in coloured circuits of all levels. Kids and coaching..."
climbnewcastle.com