A good bouldering/soloing area on the edge of some playing fields in South Shields.
The North of England Rock Climbs guidebook also describes Cleadon Crags near the old windmill. I searched it out on 11/9/07. Beware - it's not a place for shorts; forestry workers overalls would be better. The place is very overgrown and you can't top out most of the routes. It's also very small. Stick to Lonnen Quarry (and The Cove) in future!
21/03/10 - Just updated all the climbs that are possible. A lot of the place has been taken over by trees and bushes. Most of the routes you can top out except for Black butress. Top ropes are advisable as the top is very brittle (I've experienced this first hand by falling from the top onto my back, luckily I didn't land on a car battery or any other bits of rubbish that litters the place) - If you're not top roping I strongly recommend a pad!
I'm unsure on the grades - I have copied straight from the "North East Climbing" guidebook.
Went there yesterday and the harsh winter has killed a lot of the nasty vegetation!
A GOOD GUIDE CAN BE FOUND HERE - http://www.climbonline.co.uk/cleadon.htm
Overlooks the football fields adjacent to Quarry Lane in South Shields, on the edge of the Cleadon Hills
A bit complicated to find. Heading E on the A194 to S Shieds, turn right onto John Reid road (A1300). Turn right at the roundabout with a clock in the middle and after 100 mtrs turn left immedaitely before the trees and go up the minor road with Cleadon Park on the right. After the school the crag will be seen on the right. Park at the houses 1m from the crag.
|3||Small Wall||VB 4c||10|
|4||Small Crack||VB 4a||9|
|5||Short Wall||V1 5b||10|
|6||Short Crack||VB 4b||9|
|7||Left Wall||VB 4c *||5|
|8||Central Wall||V2 5c||4|
|9||Golden Years||V1 5b||6|
|10||Central Groove||VB 4a||9|
|11||Right Wall Eliminate||V3 6a *||7|
|12||Right Wall||VB 4c ***||7|
|13||Blunt Bulge||V0 5a||5|
|14||Original route||VB 4a **||12|
|15||Hidden Wall||V1 5b||7|
|18||Pock wall||VB 4b||5|
|19||The corner||VB 4b||8|
|20||Girdle Traverses||V2 5a/5c||3|
|21||Clit||V2 5c *||4|
|22||Naybrew||V3 6a *||7|
|23||Jug Wall||V3 6a||4|
|24||Thin White Crack||V2 5c **||6|
|27||Chord Crack||VB 4b||3|
|28||The Improviser||V1 5b||3|
|29||The Supervisor||V2 5c||3|
|30||The Supervisor Direct Start||V4 6b||3|
|31||The Rat||V0 5a *||6|
|32||Black Wall Girdle||V1 5b/6b **||5|
|33||Ragged Crack||VB 4c||7|
|34||Left-Hand Variation||VB 4b||3|
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|More details can be found on www.climbonline.co.uk|
Steve Crowe - 07/Mar/13
|Going to visit Cleadon Quarry tommorow bout 12ish get some decent photos.|
Bloomy - 18/Aug/11
|Good bouldering, near to Newcastle and 25m from the road. Well worth a visit if in the area and at a loose end, especially if you also visit The Cove.|
craig h - 02/Nov/07
|The name of the crag is actually Cleadon Quarry and is a extremely useful and free traing wall.
L.G - 31/Dec/04
|Underrated. It has a good bouldering section on the main wall. It does offer short climbs - a good fence at the top to tie in. Problem with vegetation underfoot and on top plus litter doesn't make it immediately appealing! I'll follow up with some pics.|
Clive - 04/Oct/02