Climbs 26
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Climbing on a sunny sea cliff in Kerry © Harry Ikin

Crag features

Single pitch sandstone sea cliffs from 16m to 40m and a fine 30m needle. It's an amazing setting and the rock is excellent. Approach by abseil or via a scramble down Peter Pan at VDiff.

Location: Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.

Approach: From Dingle town, take the N86 to Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this to the end, where the road meets the beach. The back of the headland can be seen from here, but not the cliffs. Walk to the headland (about 15 mins). Once you have reached on the headland (the highest point), you'll need to drop to your left (east side of the cliffs). It's quite a sheer drop and it's not for the faint hearted. Finally abseil to the ledges below or scramblw down Peter Pan to the left.

Description: Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.


Access: Access is reasonable. Groups of 6 or more should check with the farmer first. No camping on the headland or the beach.

Note: Apparently the famer who owns the land running up to Dunshean head, one of the best climbing spots in Kerry, has complained recently about gates left open by walkers/climbers. Please make sure the gate is closed to ensure that access continues to be straightforward to the headland.

Approach notes

The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc

Access Advice

The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc

The sandstone cliffs of Dunshean Head, just east of Dingle are attracting an increased number of climbers. Patrick Farrell, the new landowner at Dunshean has requested that people planning to climb there text him in advance on 086 3363286. Patrick has made it clear that he welcomes responsible climbers, but he would like to know when people are using the crag. Access to Dunshean Head is across farmland from the parking area at the end of the road. Please be discreet and keep to the bottom of the gardens as you pass the two houses near the car park. Walk towards the raised headland by crossing the lower end of the first three fields. Take care crossing walls and beware that the electric fence will be on when there are cattle grazing in the fields. Due to the presence of livestock, dogs are not permitted on the land at Dunshean. Camping is not allowed at the headland. Climbers are asked to respect these guidelines so as to maintain positive relations and ensure continued climbing at Dunshean Head.

The link in the description doesn't work anymore,the updated link is:
Stopsy - 23/Apr/14
Hi Terrance, thanks for the offer again- have removed myself- makes sense someone in the country does it! Cheers
marcushorgan - 08/Jun/12
Hi Marcus. I'm Happy to moderate this crag now if you still want me to. I think you need to remove yourself from it or something.Cheers
Terrance Glancy - 08/Jun/12
This appears to be a duplicate entry.
Rog Wilko - 29/Dec/11
sheet 70(kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50000 grid ref(V 478 986). from Dingle take N86 to Tralee 3 miles, take road to Dingleracecourse
steve2006 - 02/Oct/10
found map reference lat 52 06.5'N long 10 13 W (hamlet called doonsheane (near Dingle) County Kerry, Ireland)
steve2006 - 22/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Needle 
2The Razor's EdgeVS 4c ***18
3JUMBOE1 5b ***2
4JUMBO variationHVS 5a * 
5STINKY PHOOE1 5b ***6
6GiraffeVS 4c **7
7FlashbackS 2
8Uncle AlisterHVS 5a **4
 Main Face 
10FlashforwardHS 2
11Echo BeachE2 5b * 
12Heartbeat CityE3 5c ***1
13Garden of Earthly DelightsE4 6b ** 
14Broad StreetE4 6a *** 
15Fada AmachE2 5c ***7
16Grand LarcenyHVS 5a **4
17DeliveranceVS 4c **11
18Hot ChocolateE1 5b *1
19CocomotionE1 5b **3
20PanacheHS 4b **11
21Banana SplitVS 4c ***12
22ThieveryHS 10
23A bird never flew on one wingHS 4b 4
24OpenersMS 4a 15
25UnnamedHS 1
26NutellaHS **5
27Monkey NutsS 9
28Peter PanVD 7

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