Climbs 26
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces S

Climbing on a sunny sea cliff in Kerry © Harry Ikin

Crag features

Single pitch sandstone sea cliffs from 16m to 40m and a fine 30m needle. It's an amazing setting and the rock is excellent. Approach by abseil or via a scramble down Peter Pan at VDiff.

Location: Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.

Approach: From Dingle town, take the N86 to Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this to the end, where the road meets the beach. The back of the headland can be seen from here, but not the cliffs. Walk to the headland (about 15 mins). Once you have reached on the headland (the highest point), you'll need to drop to your left (east side of the cliffs). It's quite a sheer drop and it's not for the faint hearted. Finally abseil to the ledges below or scramblw down Peter Pan to the left.

Description: Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.


Access: Access is reasonable. Groups of 6 or more should check with the farmer first. No camping on the headland or the beach.

Note: Apparently the famer who owns the land running up to Dunshean head, one of the best climbing spots in Kerry, has complained recently about gates left open by walkers/climbers. Please make sure the gate is closed to ensure that access continues to be straightforward to the headland.

Approach notes

The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc

The link in the description doesn't work anymore,the updated link is:
Stopsy - 23/Apr/14
Hi Terrance, thanks for the offer again- have removed myself- makes sense someone in the country does it! Cheers
marcushorgan - 08/Jun/12
Hi Marcus. I'm Happy to moderate this crag now if you still want me to. I think you need to remove yourself from it or something.Cheers
Terrance Glancy - 08/Jun/12
This appears to be a duplicate entry.
Rog Wilko - 29/Dec/11
sheet 70(kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50000 grid ref(V 478 986). from Dingle take N86 to Tralee 3 miles, take road to Dingleracecourse
steve2006 - 02/Oct/10
found map reference lat 52 06.5'N long 10 13 W (hamlet called doonsheane (near Dingle) County Kerry, Ireland)
steve2006 - 22/Sep/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Needle 
2The Razor's EdgeVS 4c ***12
3JUMBOE1 5b *** 
4JUMBO variationHVS 5a * 
5STINKY PHOOE1 5b ***4
6GiraffeVS 4c **7
7FlashbackS 2
8Uncle AlisterHVS 5a **4
 Main Face 
10FlashforwardHS 2
11Echo BeachE2 5b * 
12Heartbeat CityE3 5c ***1
13Garden of Earthly DelightsE4 6b ** 
14Broad StreetE4 6a *** 
15Fada AmachE2 5c ***5
16Grand LarcenyHVS 5a **4
17DeliveranceVS 4c **11
18Hot ChocolateE1 5b *1
19CocomotionE1 5b **3
20PanacheHS 4b **11
21Banana SplitVS 4c ***11
22ThieveryHS 10
23A bird never flew on one wingHS 4b 4
24OpenersMS 4a 15
25UnnamedHS 1
26NutellaHS **5
27Monkey NutsS 9
28Peter PanVD 7

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