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These details were last updated on 22/Oct/2012

Dunshean Head

Co. Kerry, IRELAND

Climbs 20 – Rocktype Sandstone (hard) – Altitude ? – Faces S

Crag features
Single pitch sandstone sea cliffs from 16m to 40m and a fine 30m needle. It's an amazing setting and the rock is excellent. Approach by abseil or via a scramble down Peter Pan at VDiff.

Location: Situated about 4 miles from Dingle, Co. Kerry. Sheet 70 (Kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50,000 grid ref. V 478 986.

Approach: From Dingle town, take the N86 to Tralee for about 2-3 miles, until you see a signpost for the Dingle racecourse. Take this road, and about 1/2 mile down, take a left. Follow this to the end, where the road meets the beach. The back of the headland can be seen from here, but not the cliffs. Walk to the headland (about 15 mins). Once you have reached on the headland (the highest point), you'll need to drop to your left (east side of the cliffs). It's quite a sheer drop and it's not for the faint hearted. Finally abseil to the ledges below or scramblw down Peter Pan to the left.

Description: Rock quality is excellent. Routes range from V. Diff to E4. Some routes seem vegetated but are actually very clean, e.g. Uncle Alister and Giraffe.

Details http://routes.climbing.ie/viewroutes.php?crag=Dunshean%20Head

Access: Access is reasonable. Groups of 6 or more should check with the farmer first. No camping on the headland or the beach.

Note: Apparently the famer who owns the land running up to Dunshean head, one of the best climbing spots in Kerry, has complained recently about gates left open by walkers/climbers. Please make sure the gate is closed to ensure that access continues to be straightforward to the headland.

Guidebooks
Dunshean Head Guidebook

Climbs at this crag

Sort climbs
 Climb nameGradex
 THE NEEDLE  
2The Razor's EdgeVS 4c ***4
3JUMBOE1 5b *** 
4JUMBO variationHVS 5a * 
5STINKY PHOOE1 5b ***1
6GiraffeVS 4c **3
7FlashbackS 2
8Uncle AlisterHVS 5a **2
 MAIN FACE  
10FlashforwardHS 2
11Fada AmachE2 5c ***1
 Climb nameGradex
12Grand LarcenyHVS 5a **1
13DeliveranceVS 4c **5
14PanacheHS 4b **6
15Banana SplitVS 4c ***6
16ThieveryHS 3
17A bird never flew on one wingHS 4b 4
18OpenersMS 4a 8
19UnnamedHS 1
20NutellaHS **3
21Monkey NutsS 2
22Peter PanVD 3
Access notes
The walk in crosses privately owned farm land. Gates should be closed and care taken not to damage fences etc

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer GOS

USER FEEDBACKLogin as Existing User to add your comments
Hi Terrance, thanks for the offer again- have removed myself- makes sense someone in the country does it! Cheers
marcushorgan - 08/Jun/12

Hi Marcus. I'm Happy to moderate this crag now if you still want me to. I think you need to remove yourself from it or something.Cheers
Terrance Glancy - 08/Jun/12

This appears to be a duplicate entry.
Rog Wilko - 29/Dec/11

sheet 70(kerry) Ordinance Survey 1:50000 grid ref(V 478 986). from Dingle take N86 to Tralee 3 miles, take road to Dingleracecourse
steve2006 - 02/Oct/10

found map reference lat 52 06.5'N long 10 13 W (hamlet called doonsheane (near Dingle) County Kerry, Ireland)
steve2006 - 22/Sep/10