The Gallery

Climbs 25 – Rocktype Microgranite – Altitude ? – Faces NW

Crag features
The Gallery is an outstanding new crag on the North Wales coast. The rock is Quart Enstatite Micro-Diorite (so there!). The crag is partly quarried with slabby starts, sometimes powerful and technial finishes with pitches up to 30m in length. There are lots of lay-away moves and undercuts and the friction is excellent. Apparently fragile fins are solid! Be wary of some very sharp edges, many of which have been blunted deliberately, but care with the ropes is still required.

The crag consists of three main areas:

1. A lower tier which rises from the sandy beach and has some unrecorded trad. routes.

2. The main wall which is immediately above the footpath/cycle-way with sport routes of up to 30m. The crag faces north west and gets the sun from mid afternoon.

3. The upper crag, which has two brilliant routes and which is north-facing.

It is thought that the main crag is worked out apart from the extreme left wing. Further additions between the exisiting routes would lead to overcrowding and compromise the idnependance of the exisiting routes. There is some potential for more routes on the upper crag but extreme care would be needed on routes further to the right of the exisiting routes because of the possibility of dislodging rocks onto the cycle-way below.

Routes are graded for on-sight ascents with no prior knowledge.

All of the routes were led and equipped by Colin Struthers and Nadim Siddiqui. with assistance from Jim Burton, Nick Colton and Kevin Stephens.

Weather forecast

Guidebooks
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011), A55 Sport Climbs (2010)

Climbs at this crag

Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports
Liverpool, MERSEYSIDE
www.ellis-brigham.com

Advertise here

From the East (Chester, Llandudno etc.): Exit the Penmaenbach tunnel and after ½ mile come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16A (signposted “Dwygyfylchi”). Park just beyond the gate and cattle grid after about 100 yards.

From the West (Bangor etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16 (signposted “Penmaenmawr / Dwygyfylchi” and immediately turn left to Dwygyfylchi. Stay on this winding road for 1 mile until the A55 can be seen and park on the right just before the gate and cattle grid.

To reach the crag from the parking, walk to the A55 expressway and cross carefully (it seems like a race track!) almost immediately. There is a vague path which crosses the central reservation, on the other side of which is the cycle and pedestrian walkway. On reaching this, turn right towards the tunnels and the crag impressively appears after 10 minutes.

Classifieds
Find Classifieds near to this crag (Indoor Walls, Outdoor Shops, Accommodation, etc)

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Glyn Davidson

USER PHOTO GALLERY Click to View all 18 photos of The Gallery. You can Upload your photos of this crag