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The GalleryConwy, WALES
Climbs 25 – Rocktype Microgranite – Altitude ? – Faces NW
The crag consists of three main areas:
1. A lower tier which rises from the sandy beach and has some unrecorded trad. routes.
2. The main wall which is immediately above the footpath/cycle-way with sport routes of up to 30m. The crag faces north west and gets the sun from mid afternoon.
3. The upper crag, which has two brilliant routes and which is north-facing.
It is thought that the main crag is worked out apart from the extreme left wing. Further additions between the exisiting routes would lead to overcrowding and compromise the idnependance of the exisiting routes. There is some potential for more routes on the upper crag but extreme care would be needed on routes further to the right of the exisiting routes because of the possibility of dislodging rocks onto the cycle-way below.
Routes are graded for on-sight ascents with no prior knowledge.
All of the routes were led and equipped by Colin Struthers and Nadim Siddiqui. with assistance from Jim Burton, Nick Colton and Kevin Stephens.
From the East (Chester, Llandudno etc.): Exit the Penmaenbach tunnel and after ½ mile come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16A (signposted “Dwygyfylchi”). Park just beyond the gate and cattle grid after about 100 yards.
From the West (Bangor etc.): Come off the A55 expressway at Junction 16 (signposted “Penmaenmawr / Dwygyfylchi” and immediately turn left to Dwygyfylchi. Stay on this winding road for 1 mile until the A55 can be seen and park on the right just before the gate and cattle grid.
To reach the crag from the parking, walk to the A55 expressway and cross carefully (it seems like a race track!) almost immediately. There is a vague path which crosses the central reservation, on the other side of which is the cycle and pedestrian walkway. On reaching this, turn right towards the tunnels and the crag impressively appears after 10 minutes.
Climbs at this crag
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